/v 


RESOURCES 


F 


IFTEEN 


YEARS     EXPERIENCE 


BY  C.  C.  HUTCHINSON. 


WITH  A  NEW  MAP  AND  FORTY  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


"The  rudiments  of  empire  here 
Are  plastic  yet,  and  warm ; 

The  chaoa  of  a  mighty  world 
Is  rounding  into  form." 


TQPEKA,  KANSAS: 

THE 


187L 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  A.  D.  1871,  bj 

C.  C.  HUTCHINSON, 
In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


PRINTED  AT  THE 
COMMONWEALTH  "  STATE  PRINTING   HOUSE. 


Bancroft  Library 


fHIS  little  book  is  designed  to  anticipate  and 
1  answer  many  of  the  questions  which  would  be 
asked  by  persons  contemplating  a  removal  from 
some  other  region  to  Kansas.  At  the  same  time 
it  has  been  my  purpose- to  convey  information  which 
will  be  of  service  not  only  to  Kansas  immigrants 
but  to  all  other  immigrants  as  well.  For  instance,  the 
articles  upon  "  The  Survey  of  Government  Lands," 
indorsed  by  the  Surveyor  General  of  Kansas;  and 
upon  "Acquiring  Title  to  Government  Lands,"  in- 
dorsed by  the  United  States  Land  Officers,  are 
intended  to  be  so  explicit  that  with  their  help  any 
person  may  locate  Government  Land  by  its  corners, 
and  then  take  proper  steps  to  acquire  a  title  by  any 
of  the  various  methods  established  by  Government. 
I  have  endeavored  to  be  strictly  impartial  as  relates 
to  different  localities  in  Kansas,  and  have  written  as 
if  addressing  an  intimate  friend  who  was  entirely 
ignorant  concerning  the  subjects  discussed.  It  is 
designed  to  furnish  a  hand-book  which  will  be  worth 
all  its  costs  to  any  person  interested  in  the  West. 


VI  PREFACE. 

This  book  is  the  outgrowth  of  experience  in  rela- 
tion to  the  matters  of  which  it  treats,  and  the  reader 
is  requested  to  bear  in  mind  that  it  is  not  written  by 
a  professional  author.  It  is  hoped  that  upon  this 
ground  its  many  defects  will  be  more  leniently 
regarded. 

The  map  has  been  drawn  and  engraved  with  great 
care,  and  everything  upon  it  is  from  official  sources 
excepting  the  proposed  railroad  lines.  With  this 
exception  it  is  intended  to  be  strictly  accurate,  and 
it  is  probable  that  most  of  the  projected  roads  will 
be  constructed  in  a  few  years. 

I  gladly  record  my  gratitude  to  the  numberless 
friends  who  have  rendered  valuable  service  in  fur- 
nishing material  for  this  work,  and  especially  to  the 
members  of  the  Legislature  of  1871,  which  almost 
without  dissent  appropriated  twenty-five  hundred 
dollars  to  aid  in  its  publication.  "Without  these  kind 
offices  on  the  part  of  my  friends  and  those  who 
desire  to  see  the  State  correctly  described,  it  would 
have  been  impossible  to  sell  the  work  for  the  small 
sum  at  which  it  is  offered. 

To  Mr.  «T.  G.  Haskell,  the  accomplished  architect 
of  the  State  Capitol,  State  University  and  many 
other  buildings  which  bespeak  his  taste  and  skill,  I 
am  deeply  indebted  for  assistance -in  the  matter  of 
engravings.  Through  his  introduction  I  have  been 
able  to  obtain  precisely  what  was  wanted  from  Mr. 
S.  S.  Kilburn,*96  Washington  Street,  Boston,  Massa- 


PREFACE.  Vll 

chusetts,  whose  promptness  and  accuracy  I  can  com- 
mend and  whose  work  commends  itself.  Two  or 
three  coarser  engravings  were  obtained  from  other 
sources,  but  they  give  accurate  views  of  the  objects 
presented.  The  views  given  are  only  samples  of 
what  is  to  be  seen  in  Kansas.  From  several  *  towns 
it  happened  to  be  impossible  to  procure  such  views 
as  were  wanted;  and  there  are  buildings,  bridges, 
water  powers:  etc.,  in  all  'parts  of  the  State  which 
would  interest  the  reader  equally  with  those  given. 
The  engravings  are  nearly  all  from  photographs,  but 
in  a  few  instances,  the  buildings  are  not  yet  com- 
pleted, and  the  views  given  are  from  the  architect's 
plans.  It  is  believed  that  this  feature  of  the  book 
will  commend  itself  to  all  who  desire  to  know  Kansas 
as  it  is. 

This  book  points  out  various  means  whereby  more 
extended  information  can  be  obtained  in  regard  to 
any  particular  locality,  and  the  author  will  also  an- 
swer all  letters  addressed  to  him  at  Topeka,  with 
stamps  inclosed.  I  shall  give  especial  attention  to 
all  changes  in  the  laws,  or  in  the  rulings  of  the  Gen- 
eral Land  Office,  in  relation  to  public  lands,  and 
will  furnish  the  same  at  a  trifling  expense  to  my 
correspondents. 

C.  C.  H. 


BOUNDARIES   AND   AREA. 

fHE  parallel  of  40  degrees  north  latitude,  which 
i  passes  eastward  a  little  north  of  Springfield, 
j  Illinois,  and  Indianapolis,  Indiana;  arid  through 
Columbus,  Ohio,  and  Philadelphia,  Pennsylvania, 
forms  the  northern  line  of  the  State  of  Kansas. 

The  southern  boundary  line  of  Kansas  is  the 
parallel  of  37  degrees,  which  is  the  latitude  of 
Southern  Kentucky  and  Virginia,  passing  through 
Norfolk  in  the  latter  State.  Westward  from  Kansas 
this  line  strikes  the  Pacific  coast  fifty  miles  south  of 
San  Francisco. 

Nebraska  lies  on  the  north  of  Kansas ;  Missouri 
on  the  east ;  the  Indian  territory  on  the  south ;  and 
Colorado  on  the  west. 

Kansas  is  about  210  miles  wide  and  430  miles  long. 
Its  area  is  about  90,000  square  miles,  or  57,600,000 
acres. 

RIVERS. 

,  A  considerable  portion  of  the  boundary  line  be- 
tween Missouri  and  Kansas  is  formed  by  the  Mis- 
souri rivernupon  the  windings  of  which  navigable 
stream,  the  State  presents  a  water  front  to  the  east 
of  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles.  This  river 
is  navigable  for  steamboats  for  twenty-five  hundred 
miles  above  the  northern  State  line,  north  and  west- 
ward to  Fort  Benton,  near  the  Bocky  Mountains  and 
British  Possessions;  and  southeastward  five  hundred 
miles  to  the  point  of  intersection  with  the  Missis- 


10  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

sippi,  twenty-five  miles  above  St.  Louis.  The  length 
of  the  bridge  which  spans  the  Missouri  at  Leaven- 
worth  City,  is  one  thousand  feet,  but  the  river  is,  in 
places,  half  a  mile  wide. 

The  other  principal  rivers  of  the  State  are  as  fol- 
lows :  The  Kansas  or  Kaw  River,  is  formed  by  the 
confluence  of  the  Republican  and  Smoky  Hill  .Rivers, 
near  Junction  City,  and  is  about  one  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  in  length. 

The  Smokjr  Hill  River  rises  near  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, in  Colorado.  It  receives  the  Saline  River,  which 
is  about  two  hundred  miles  long,  and  the  Solomon, 
about  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  in  length. 

The  Republican  River  rises  in  Colorado,  flows 
through  Northwestern  Kansas  into  Nebraska,  whence 
it  returns  to  Kansas,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  west  of  the  eastern  line  of  the  State.  Its 
length  from  its  source  is  more  than  four  hundred 
miles. 

The  Kansas  River  receives  on  the  north,  at  Man- 
hattan, the  Big  Blue  River,  which  rises  in  Nebraska 
and  is  about  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  miles  long; 
and  the  Grasshopper,  about  seventy-five  miles  in 
length.  On  the  south  it  receives,  near  Lawrence^ 
the  Wakarusa,  which  is  nearly  fifty  miles  in  length. 
The  Kansas  River  flows  nearly  due  east  from  Junc- 
tion City,  and  enters  the  Missouri  River  at  a  point 
where  the  latter,  making  a  great  bend  to  the  east- 
ward, leaves  the  State  line.  About  two-thirds  of 
the  State  lies  south  of  the  Kansas  and  Smoky  Hill 
Rivers,  whence  that  portion  is  frequently  called 
Southern  Kansas,  and  the  remainder  of  the  State 
Northern  Kansas.  The  Kansas  River  is  not  prac- 
tically navigable,  although  steamboats  have  ascended 
it,  in  one  instance  to  Fort  Riley,  which  is  on  the 
Smoky  Hill,  above  the  mouth  of  the  Republican. 

The  Marais  des  Cygnes  River,  or  River  of  Swans, 
which  Whittier  has  immortalized  in  song,  rises  east 


RIVERS. 


11 


of  the  center  of  the  State,  and  flowing  south  of  east 
about  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  miles,  crosses  the 
State  line  near  Fort  Scott,  and  becomes  the  Osage 
Eiver  of  Missouri. 

Spring  Biver  enters  Kansas  from  Missouri,  and 
flows  about  thirty  miles  in  the  southeast  corner  of 
this  State,  whence  it  enters  the  Indian  Territory. 


STATE    UNIVERSITY,  AT    LAWRENCE. 

Old  building  erected  1865. 

The  Neosho  Eiver  rises  near  the  center  of  the 
State,  receives  the  Cottonwood  and  other  confluent 
streams,  flows  southeast  a  distance  of  about  two 
hundred  miles,  and  enters  the  Indian  Territory 
twenty-five  miles  west  of  the  southeastern  corner  of 
Kansas. 


12  HUTCHINSON'S    KANSAS, 

The  Cottonwood,  which  enters  the  Neosho  near 
Emporia,  is  much  the  larger  stream  at  their  junc- 
tion. It  is  about  one  hundred  miles  long. 

The  Yerdigris  Kiver  flows  south  nearly  parallel  to 
the  Neosho,  and  enters  the  Indian  Territory  about 
one  hundred  miles  from  its  source.  It  receives  Fall 
.River  on  the  west,  which  is  about  sixty  miles  long. 

The  Arkansas  Kiver  rises  far  up  among  the  Eocky 
Mountains  in  the  South  Park  of  Colorado,  and  re- 
ceives many  tributaries  in  the  latter  State.  It  crosses 
three-fourths  of  the  length  of  Kansas,  flowing  east 
and  southeast,  and  with  its  tributaries,  waters  two- 
thirds  of  Southern  Kansas.  It  then  flows  through 
the  northeastern  one-third  of  the  Indian  Territory, 
receiving  all  the  remaining  streams  of  Southern 
Kansas,  crosses  the  State  of  Arkansas,  and  enters 
the  Mississippi  Eiver  midway  between  Memphis 
and  Yicksburg.  Its  entire  length  is  more  than  two 
thousand  miles. ;  its  windings  in  Kansas  must  amount 
to  about  five  hundred  miles. 

The  first  tributary  of  the  Arkansas,  commencing 
on  the  north  or  east  side,  near  the  south  line  of  the 
State,  at  Arkansas  City,  is  the  Walnut,  which  flows 
from  the  north  a  distance  of  about  seventy -five  miles, 
receiving  as  tributary,  the  Whitewater.  At  Wichita 
the  Arkansas  receives  the  Little  Arkansas,  a  deep 
flowing  river,  about  seventy-five  miles  in  length, 
Next  comes  in  the  Cow  Creek,  nearly  as  long,  and  at 
Fort  Zarah,  on  the  northernmost  part  of  the  Big 
Bend  of  the  Arkansas,  Walnut  River  enters  from 
the  west,  it  being  about  one  hundred  miles  long. 
Beyond  are  Ash  Creek,  Pawnee  Fork,  &c.  On  the 
south  or  west  side  of  the  Arkansas  it  receives  the 
Sha-kus-ka,  the  Nin-ne-scah  or  Good  Eiver,  the  Cow 
Skin  and  others,  from  fifty  to  seventy-five  miles  long. 

In  the  southwestern  corner  of  Kansas  the  Cimar- 
ron  flows  a  considei'able  distance  in  the  State  and 
receives  the  waters  of  Medicine  Lodge,  Mule  Creek, 


SURFACE   AND   SCENERY.  13 

Nes-cu-tun-ga,  Bluff  Creek,  &c.,  each  from  fifty  to 
one  hundred  miles  long.  This  region  has  not  yet 
been  surveyed,  so  that  these  streams,  as  well  as 
streams  of  importance  in  Northwestern  Kansas,  are 
not  put  down  on  the  map.  There  are  numerous 
streams  from  twenty- five  to  seventy-five  miles  long, 
including  tributaries  of  the  Republican  and  Solomon 
.Rivers,  which  have  not  been  mentioned. 

The  rivers  named  above,  with  their  innumerable 
tributaries,  fed  by  rivulets  flowing  from  never-failing 
springs,  have  given  to  Kansas  its  reputation  of  being 
the  best  watered  region  of  all  the  prairie  States. 

SURFACE  AND    SCENERY. 

To  describe  the  surface  and  scenery  of  Kansas  so 
that  it  can  be  appreciated  by  those  who  have  never 
seen  a  prairie  State  is  quite  impossible,  and  scarcely 
less  difficult  is  it  to  describe  it  to  one  who  has  only 
seen  the  flat  prairies  of  Central  Illinois.  In  general 
it  may  be  called  an  undulating  plateau,  the  surface 
of  which  very  gently  slopes  from  the  western  line, 
which  has  an  altitude  of  about  thirty-five  hundred 
feet  above  the  ocean,  to  the  eastern  line,  which  is 
seven  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the  ocean  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Kansas  River. 

The  rise  of  the  first  one  hundred  miles  on  the 
Kansas  Pacific  Railroad  from  the  Eastern  State  line 
to  Wamego  is  two  hundred  and  fifty-four  feet;  for 
the  second  hundred  miles  to  Brookville  the  rise  is 
three  hundred  and  forty-eight  feet;  the  rise  of  the 
third  hundred  miles  to  Ellis  is  seven  hundred  and 
sixty-nine  feet,  and  the  rise  thence  to  Eagle  Tail 
which  is  near  the  Western  State  line  is  thirteen 
hundred  and  seventeen  feet. 

The  interval  lands  along  the  water  courses,  called 
bottoms,  are  from  one  fourth  of  a  mile  to  three  miles 
in  width,  but  towards  the  western  part  of  the  State 


14  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

are  sometimes  from  five  to  ten  miles  wide.  None  of 
the  bottom  land  in  the  State  is  regularly  subject  to 
overflow  and  when  high  waters  occur  on  a  few 
streams  they  subside  in  three  or  four  days.  The 
ordinary  flow  of  water,  in  the  larger  streams,  is 
fifteen  or  twenty  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  bottom 
lands,  almost  invariably  insuring  perfect  drainage. 
The  bottoms  in  the  eastern  half  of  the  State  are 
about  equally  divided  between  wooded  and  open 
lands. 

Leaving  the  bottoms,  one  comes  upon  the  next 
highest  surface  called  second  bottom.  This  forma- 
tion is  almost  entirely  absent  from  many  streams  of 
the  State,  and  it  varies  so  much  in  different  places 
that  it  can  hardly  be  described.  It  varies  in  extent 
from  a  narrow  belt,  to  a  width  of  two  or  three  miles, 
and  usually  rises  gently  as  it  recedes  from  the  stream. 
The  surface  is  diversified  by  gentle  rolls  ordinarily 
running  nearly  at  right  angles  with  the  streams,  with 
their  crowns  from  an  eighth  to  a  half  mile  apart  and 
rising  twenty  to  forty  feet  above  the  intervening 
depressions. 

Back  from  the  second  bottoms  the  traveler  strikes 
the  bluffs  which  rise  to  a  hight  of  from  fifty  to  two 
hundred  or  three  hundred  feet,  with  a  slope  of  about 
twenty  to  thirty  degrees.  Once  upon  the  summit 
of  the  bluff  the  traveler  sees  stretching  before  him 
what  we  term  the  upland  prairies,  a  succession  of 
rolls  similar  to  those  upon  the  second  bottom,  but 
with  much  longer  slopes  forming  a  series  of  earthy 
billows.  Their  crests  or  summits  are  from  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  to  a  mile  apart,  and  perhaps  twenty  to 
eighty  feet  above  the  intervening  depression  or 
miniature  valley.  Down  many  of  these  little  valleys 
flow  rills  of  clear  water,  frequently  making  a  narrow 
gulley  as  they  break  through  the  bluffs  and  near  the 
streams  to  which  they  are  tributary. 

These  rills,  which  sometimes  attain  the  dignity  and 


SURFACE  AND   SCENERY.  15 

names  of  creeks  are,  in  Eastern  Kansas,  usually 
fringed  with  timber  as  they  approach  the  main 
stream.  On  the  upper  front  of  the  bluffs,  ledges  fre- 
quently crop  out  in  bold  parapets  a  few  feet  high,  and 
along  the  crests  of  the  large  prairie  rolls  these  ledges 
wind  like  ribbons  around  the  irregular  face. 

There  is  no  portion  of  the  State  which  is  flat  and 
and  monotonous,  or  cut  up  by  disagreeable  and  in- 
convenient gullies  and  ravines.  The  western  half 
of  the  State  is  not  so  much  diversified  in  its  scenery, 
but  it  has  everywhere  a  rolling  and  varied  surface. 

No  other  such  scene  is  to  be  found  in  the  United 
States  as  presents  itself  to  the  traveler  who  stands 
upon  one  of  the  higher  Kansas  bluffs.  The  patient 
reader,  wearied  by  the  formal  description  we  have 
given  of  the  surface  of  the  country,  must  now  give 
scope  to  his  imagination  else  he  will  not  see  Kansas 
as  it  is.  Nature,  ever  symmetrical  in  her  combina 
tions,  is  irregular  in  all  her  details,  and  nowhere  is 
this  better  shown  than  in  the  picture  we  are  contem- 
plating. The  prairie  rolls  vary  in  direction  and  size 
nearly  as  much  as  the  streams  and  bluffs,  and  in 
some  localities  they  are  short  and  comparatively 
sharp,  while  in  a  mile  or  two  they  so  broaden  their 
extent  and  lower  their  surfaces  as  to  appear  nearly 
level  to  one  from  a  mountainous  region.  No  two 
streams  or  bottoms  or  bluffs  or  prairies  are  alike  in 
all  this  beautiful  country.  Here  is  a  broad  valley 
miles  in  extent,  and  embracing  in  itself  and  its  sur- 
roundings many  .of  the  features  we  have  so  imper- 
fectly detailed.  The  bluffs  advance  and  recede  at 
capricious  pleasure:  on  one  side  of  the  stream  push- 
ing their  promontory  fronts  like  the  parapets  of 
some  vast  fortification  full  into  the  low  lands,  or  not 
far  away  closing  nearly  together  upon  either  side  of 
the  stream,  or  again  with  gentle  descent  approach 
their  grass  clad  slopes  till  their  harmonious  shades 
mingle  w'ith  tho  rich  verdure  of  the  forests  below. 


SURFACE   AND   SCENERY.  U 

Elsewhere,  lowlands,  bluff  and  prairie  so  impercepti- 
bly blend  their  various  characteristics  that  the  fea- 
tures of  none  can  be  accurately  traced,  while  here 
and  there  the  eye  rests  upon  an  isolated  mound  of  a 
few  acres  in  extent,  which  rises  to  the  level  of  the 
high  prairies  beyond.  These  views  combine  the 
qualities  of  grandeur  in  their  vast  extent  and  of  the 
picturesque  in  their  loveliness  of  detail  to  such  a 
degree  that  the  poet  preacher,  Kev.  Eobert  Pierpont, 
upon  his  visit  to  Kansas  exclaimed :  "  God  doubtless 
might  have  made  a  lovelier  country,  but  it  is  certain 
that  he  never  did  it." 

The  landscape,  even  of  the  unsettled  portions-of 
Kansas  carries  with  it  an  impression  that  this  is  not 
really  a  new  country,  but  an  old  one  long  since 
deserted  of  its  inhabitants.  Concerning  this  feature, 
which  immediately  strikes  all  observant  travelers, 
Bayard  Taylor  remarks  :  "The  counterpart  of  this 
region  is  not  to  be  found  in  the  United  States,  yet 
there  was  a  suggestion  of  other  landscapes  in  it 
which  puzzled  me  considerably  until  I  happened  to 
recall  some  parts  of  France,  especially  the  valleys 
in  the  neighborhood  of  Epernay.  Here  too,  there 
was  rather  an  air  of  old  culture  than  of  new  settle- 
ment, only  the  houses,  gardens  and  orchards  were 
wanting." 

Upon  the  surface  of  hill  and  dale  which  we  have 
described  place  the  artificial  groves  and  hedges,  which 
four  or  five  years  suffice  to  perfect,  place  here  the 
flocks  and  herds  and  growing  crops,  and  you  have  a 
scene  of  pastoral  beauty  which  few  countries  can 
equal.  Such  views  are  now  to  be  found  in  the  older 
portions  of  the  State  and  will  in  a  few  years  be  com- 
mon throughout  its  extent. 


18  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

« 

SOIL. 

The  soil  of  Kansas  is  similar  to  that  of  other 
prairie  States.  Indeed,  this  State  having  been  largely 
settled  by  Illinoisians,  its  agriealta,ral  resources  have 
always  been  estimated  in  e<flnparison  with  that 
State — confessedly  the  Garden  State  of  all  the  world. 

Those  of  us  who  have  lived  in  both  States  and  cul- 
tivated land  in  both  States,  do  not  object  to  even 
this  high  standard  of  comparison,  and  it  may  be  said 
then,  that  Kansas  soil  is  as  deep  as  Illinois  soil.  This 
opinion  is  the  result  of  examination  with  my  pocket 
rule  in  hundreds  of  places  in  both  States.  Owing  to 
the  rolling  surface,  its  drainage  is  incomparably  bet- 
ter, and  it  will  consequently  endure  the  extremes  of 
dryness  or  moisture  much  better  than  Illinois  soil. 
It  does  not  "  heave  "  as  much  by  the  action  of  frosts, 
and  is  superior  in  this,  as  well  as  in  other  respects, 
for  winter  wheat. 

The  vicissitudes  of  agriculture  which  are  incident 
to  every  new  country,  have  severely  tried  the  rep- 
utation  of  this  soil  for  productiveness.  Add  to  this 
the  exceptional  occurrence  of  a  dry  season,  which 
found  a  people  who  were  poor  when  they  came  to 
Kansas,  now  stripped  of  every  resource  by  the  long 
continued  Border  war,  and  it  is  surprising  that  the 
State  has  obtained  so  remarkable  a  reputation  for  its 
productiveness. 

But  since  the  settlers  learned  that  men  must  work 
for  a  living  here  as  well  as  elsewhere,  and  plow 
and  plant  in  season,  and  attend  their  crops  as  they 
would  attend  them  in  other  States,  Kansas  has  made 
returns  that  place  her  in  the  very  front  rank  as  an 
agricultural  State.  Formerly  men  thought  that  corn 
needed  little  or  no  cultivation  here,  and  were  quite 
indifferent  as  to  the  time  of  putting  in  crops.  With 
proper  cultivation  the  results  satisfy  the  most  incred- 


SOIL. 


19 


ulous,  as  may  be  seen  by  the  following  comparative 
table  of  products. 


Showing  average  yield  in  bushels  per  acre  in  fifteen 
of  the  most  productive  States,  copied  from  the 
.Reports  of  the  United  States  Agricultural  Depart- 
ment, Fractions  are  omitted. 

Keport  for  1870  not  yet  published. 


PRODUCTS. 

«j 

> 

Massachusetts. 

Connecticut.  I 

New  York. 

Pennsylvania.  I 

Kentucky. 

o 

i 

Michigan. 

d 

•5 
s, 

M 

| 

Missouri. 

Wisconsin. 

A 

Minnesota. 

as 

Report  for  1865 
Indian  Corn  
Wheat  

43 
18 

33 
17 

31 
17 

24 
15 

40 
I9 

34 
7 

41 
| 

38 
15 

40 
8 

35 
11 

39 
12 

41 
16 

42 
14 

38 
V.O 

41 
15- 

Rve 

16 

1  \ 

14 

15 

IS 

q 

1? 

11 

12 

16 

16 

17 

18 

V? 

23 

Oats  

39 

26 

35 

34 

34 

?4 

81 

S7 

28 

35 

V?6 

40 

38 

41 

34 

Barley 

?8 

19 

28 

?? 

•>0 

•'1 

•>•> 

r>.> 

22 

?1 

?3 

l>6 

26 

29 

38 

Potatoes  

164 

104 

1?1 

107 

75 

59 

8S 

H5 

84 

117 

im, 

141 

i  w 

197 

Il!> 

Report  for  18  66 
Indian  Corn.  ... 
Wheit  

33 

9« 

34 
14 

33 

17 

27 
15 

34 

n 

31 

f, 

38 
4 

32 
IS 

36 
| 

31 
13 

30 
16 

28 
14 

31 
16 

34 
21 

Rye 

18 

17 

13 

16 

is 

q 

10 

15 

12 

1,5 

19 

16 

19 

26 

Oats  

40 

29 

3-> 

33 

33 

?1 

82 

S4 

28 

34 

30 

n 

37 

39 

Barley       - 

88 

9-> 

28 

28 

22 

IS 

IP 

28 

19 

2f 

20 

28 

28 

29 

Potatoes 

148 

1V» 

109 

107 

99 

88 

78 

no 

79 

88 

qo 

n 

7? 

81 

Report  for  1867 
Indian  Corn  
"Wheat  

36 

u 

35 
16 

33 
17 

30 
14 

32 
12 

24 
8 

28 

n 

31 

i? 

29 

10 

23 
11 

27 
1? 

81 
1° 

33 
1? 

30 
1? 

38 
14 

Rve 

15 

15 

14 

15 

is 

10 

is 

17 

14 

15 

16 

It, 

16 

18 

2O 

Oats     

30 

M 

°7 

26 

80 

18 

31 

so 

10 

30 

30 

35 

4'> 

38 

3ft 

Barley         . 

U 

0'> 

28 

20 

20 

17 

24 

20 

°1 

01 

17  1 

28 

26 

?3 

26 

Potatoes  
Report  for  1868 
Indian  Corn  
Wheat  

116 

38 
16 

96 

37 
15 

n 

34 
Ifi 

84 

32 
14 

74 

35 
1° 

50 

32 

8 

75 

34 
IS 

97 

33 
1" 

73 
34 

n 

(50 

34 
11 

73 

80 

14 

96 

33 
13 

108 

37 
14 

110 

33 
lr> 

109 

18 
15 

Rve 

1  | 

16 

11 

15 

IS 

11 

IS 

18 

11 

If! 

18 

18 

10 

20 

2O 

Oats  

90 

24 

?7 

"6 

91 

22 

oq 

So 

26 

31 

82 

n 

88 

36 

25 

Barley  
Potatoes  
Report  for  1869 
Indian  Corn  
Wheat 

23 
135 

3-1 
18 

20 
116 

34 

IS 

20 
117 

31 
17 

21 

94 

27 
Ifi 

21 

88 

31 
1  1 

16 

So 

25 

n 

22 

79 

30 
15 

23 
94 

28 
1  •-, 

20 

8S 

28 

14 

20 

71 

23 

n 

24 

90 

30 

14 

24 
77 

26 
15 

26 

96 

33 
IS 

25 
1M 

20 
16 

23 

85 

48 
18 

Rye  

16 

18 

IS 

14 

13 

n 

14 

If. 

15 

14 

16 

15 

16 

18 

35 

Oats 

B8 

N 

ss 

88 

n 

10 

89 

to 

20 

33 

88 

86 

37 

37 

43 

Barley 

<->•> 

26 

28 

"•1 

28 

10 

28 

24 

•>•> 

20 

28 

2fi 

26 

"5 

3O 

Potatoes  

IGo 

loi; 

108 

114 

!<)•> 

69 

112 

155 

11  Hi 

10:5 

115 

lo7 

123 

11-2 

149 

20 


HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 


The  bottom  lands  are  usually  considered  most  val- 
uable, but  they  do  not  invariably  produce  the  best 
crops.  In  a  wet  season  the  uplands  are  most  pro- 
ductive. The  soil  on  the  bottoms  is  from  two  to 
ten  feet  deep,  and  on  the  uplands,  from  one  to  three 


JOHN  BROWN'S  CABIN. 

P3WThe  above  cut  is  from  a  photagraph  taken  for  this  book  by  Barker,  photographic 
artist,  of  Ottawa,  Kansas,  who  has  copies  for  sale.  It  is  a  view  of  the  only  building 
now  standing  in  which  John  Brown,  the  Abolitionist,  ever  lived  in  Kansas.  No  less 
than  six  of  those  who  fell  at  Harper's  Ferry  upon  the  occasion  of  Brown's  raid  into 
Virginia,  had  eaten  and  slept  in  this  cabin.  The  figure  with  uncovered  head  is  the 
venerable  James  Hanway,  and  the  other  Mr.  Wasson,  who  were  neighbors,  com- 
panions and  friends  of  Captain  Brown.  The  former  at  one  time  lived  in  this  cabin, 
when  it  was  that  Old  John  Browa  wrote  his  famous  "  Parallels"  under  its  roof.  (tfe« 
Kedpath's  "  Life  of  Brown,"  page  218.) 

Through  the  doorway,  and  against  the  open  space  made  by  the  falling  of  the 
huge  old  fashioned  chimney,  may  be  seen  the  ends  of  ox-bows  suspended  to  dry. 
These  tell  the  story  of  "  the  piping  times  of  peace"  which  have  come  since  the  days 
•when  John  Brown  threw  himselfinto  the  laws  of  death  to  rescue  an  oppressed 
people.  The  cabin,  now  rapidly  falling  to  decay,  stands  in  Franklin  county,  about 
two  miles  from  Lane  post-office. 


SOIL.  21 

feet  deep.  In  the  eastern  half  of  the  State,  it  is  a 
black,  sandy  loam,  intermixed  with  vegetable  mold, 
and  the  soil  of  the  entire  State  has  in  its  composi- 
tion what  is  lacking  in  many  prairie  soils,  an  abun- 
dant supply  of  mineral  constituents,  it  is  for  this 
reason  that  many  practical  men  who  are  familiar 
with  the  entire  west  believe  that  Kansas  soil  will 
prove  to  be  permanently  rich,  when  other  soils  now 
very  productive  will  be  exhausted. 

Lime  is  everywhere  abundant  in  this  soil,  and 
gypsum  or  land  plaster  is  found  over  a  very  large 
extent  in  the  central  and  western  portion  of  the 
State,  intermingled  largely  with  the  soil,  as  well  as 
existing  in  ledges,  ready  to  be  used  as  a  fertilizer  at 
a  trifling  cost. 

Under  date  of  March  31,  1871,  Professor  Wm.  H. 
Saunders,  M.  D.  of  the  State  University,  furnishes 
me  with  the  following  analysis  of  average  prairie 
soil,  the  specimen  being  taken  at  the  depth  of  seven 
inches  below  the  surface  : 

Organic  matter 

Silica  -  - 

Alumina  ... 

Sesqui  oxide  of  iron    - 

Potassa  -  - 

Soda        -  ... 

Lime  -  ..... 

Magnesia  

Chlorine          -        -        -        - 
Sulphuric  acid  -  - 

Phosphoric  acid      -  ... 

100.00 

The  Professor  says: 

"  From  the  above  it  will  be  seen  that  we  have  a 
a  soil  rich  in  all  the  chemical  elements  necessary 
for  the  vigorous  growth  of  vegetation,  and  thor- 


22  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

ough,  intelligent  cultivation  will  certainly  bring  the 
most  gratifying  reward." 

There  are  to  be  found,  occasionally,  small  isolated 
tracts,  where  a  stiff  sub-soil  comes  near  the  surface, 
and  which  at  first  only  produces  light  crops,  but 
greatly  improves  by  cultivation.  The  common  grass 
of  the  prairies  is  of  tender,  rapid  growing  varieties, 
covering  the  earth  like  a  mat,  but  the  grass  growing 
on  these  "patches"  is  short,  wiry  and  scattering. 
It  is  called  "  buffalo  grass,"  but  is  distinct  and  totally 
different  from  the  nutritious  grass  with  its  long 
curled  leaf,  which  covers  the  western  half  of  Kansas, 
and  upon  which  vast  buffalo  herds  feed  and  fatten. 

Not  one  acre  in  a  thousand  in  Kansas  is  of  the 
objectionable  "  buffalo  land"  character  described 
above,  and  even  this  land  with  deep  plowing  (it  is 
very  heavy  plowing  the  first  time),  or  by  the  appli- 
cation of  a  little  manure  to  give  it  "  life" — eight  or 
ten  loads  per  acre — produces  excellent  crops  of  all 
kinds.  Lime  is  also  beneficial  to  such  soils.  It  is 
confessedly  capital  wheat  land.  There  is  rarely 
more  than  one  to  ten  acres  of  it  in  a  body,  and  some- 
times a  few  square  feet  only.  It  is  not  found  on  one 
farm  in  ten  in  the  State,  but  settlers  who,  in  the 
early  history  of  the  State,  happened  to  cultivate  a 
patch  of  it,  at  once  jumped  to  the  conclusion  that 
Kansas  was  a  barren  region.  This  land  is  some- 
times improperly  called  "  alkali  land."  The  unerr- 
ing certainty  with  which  it  is  detected  by  the  grass, 
and  the  insignificant  amount  of  it  in  the  country, 
almost  makes  it  inexcusable  to  devote  so  much  space 
to  the  subject;  but  I  desire  to  state  the  facts  about 
Kansas,  whether  favorable  .or  unfavorable,  so  that 
strangers  need  not  be  deceived  when  purchasing 
land. 

After  the  above  went  to  press,  I  learned  that  Prof. 
W.  H.  Saunders  had  made  an  analysis  of  this  soil, 
and  upon  application  for  his  opinion  of  its  qualities 


SOIL.  23 

I  received  the  following  letter,  under  date  of  April 
6th,  1871  : 

"I  have  the  following  reply  to  make  in  answer  to 
your  letter  of  inquiry  respecting  the  nature  of 
'  alkali  spots'  on  <  buffalo  wallows.'  Any  one  can 
easily  detect  them  in  cultivated  ground  by  the  color, 
which  is  much  lighter  than  the  surrounding  soil, 
especially  after  a  spell  of  dry  weather,  when  a  white, 
efflorescent  powder  forms  on  the  surface  of  these 
spots. 

"The  composition  of  the  soil,  which  is  an  exceed- 
ingly tough  and  compact  clay,  is  chiefly  silicate  of 
alumina,  containing  a  little  organic  matter,  a  little 
sesquioxide  of  iron,  and  occasionally  a  little  lime. 
This  soil  has  become  strongly  impregnated  with 
sulphate  of  magnesia,  (epsom-salt,)  which  is  the 
white  powder  seen  on  the  surface.  This  salt  in 
small  quantity,  is  valuable  as  a  fertilizer,  but  when 
in  excess  is  very  destructive  to  vegetation,  hence  the 
barren  nature  of  these  spots. 

"  Of  more  practical  interest,  however,  is  the  ques- 
tion :  what  can  be  done  to  render  these  spots  fertile? 
This,  fortunately,  admits  of  easy  solution.  After 
the  soil  is  well  loosend,  a  top-dressing  of  quick-lime, 
applied  just  before  a  rain,  will  decompose  the  sul- 
phate of  magnesia,  and  form  sulphate  of  lime,  (gyp- 
sum,) a  valuable  fertilizer,  while  the  magnesia  will 
soon  absorb  carbonic  acid  and  be  converted  into  car- 
bonate of  magnesia,  which  being  insoluble  in  water, 
will  be  much  less  injurious  to  vegetation.  Lime 
should  not  be  thus  applied  when  a  crop  is  on  the 
ground,  for  the  caustic  action  of  the  lime  and  mag- 
nesia would  destroy  it.  This  method  is,  liable  to  the 
objection  that  it  simply  converts  the  noxious  agent 
into  a  less  injurious  form,  but  does  not  assist  in 
removing  it  from  the  soil. 

"A  much  more  effectual  and  better  way  is  simply 
to  thoroughly  pulverize  the  soil  as  deeply  as  possible 


24  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

at  least  once  a  year.  The  magnesian  salt,  being 
very  soluble  in  water,  will  be  leached  out  by  the 
rains,  and  the  soil  thus  permanently  freed  from  its 
presence ;  fertilizers  then  applied  will  render  the 
soil  productive.  The  experience  of  those  who  have 
tried  this  method  confirms  me  in  the  belief  that  it  is 
the  best  way  to  treat  this  soil.  The  popular  notion, 
that  these  spots  contain  an  alkali  and  that  the  soil 
has  been  rendered  hard  by  the  wallowing  of  the 
buffalo,  is  erroneous.  The  soil  contains  no  alkali, 
and  its  hardness  is  owing  to  its  chemical  composi- 
tion, but  the  buifalo  have  discovered  the  salt  taste  of 
the  soil  impregnated  with  the  sulphate  of  magnesia, 
and,  by  long  repeated  licking  and  tramping,  have 
worn  considerable  depressions  in  places,  which  dur- 
ing the  wet  season  are  filled  with  water." 

Occasionally  sandstone  soil  is  found  in  tracts  of  a 
few  square  miles.  This  is  confessedly  the  best  fruit 
land  in  the  State,  and  is  highly  regarded  by  many 
persons  for  purposes  of  cultivation,  owing  to  the  fact 
that  it  is  ready  for  spring  work  sooner  than  lime- 
stone soil,  and  can  be  more  readily  cultivated  during 
a  wet  time.  Many  of  the  limestone  ledges  lie  higher 
than  the  sandstone  formation,  and  it  is  probably 
from  this  cause  that  there  is  a  good  deal  of  lime  to 
be  found  even  in  sand  stone  soils,  but  if  this  is  lack- 
ing it  may  be  cheaply  supplied,  because  lime  is  every- 
where present,  either  in  the  form  of  limestone  (lime 
and  carbonic  acid),  or  gypsum  (lime  and  sulphuric 
acid). 

There  is  less  waste  land  in  Kansas  than  in  almost 
any  other  State  in  the  Union.  In  fact  there  is  really 
no  waste  land  at  all,  because  there  are  neither 
swamps  nor  sloughs,  and  the  entire  State  can  be  cul- 
tivated, excepting  those  portions  covered  with  timber 
or  where  rock  prevails. 

The  latter  feature  is  fully  described  elsewhere, 
and  it  will  be  seen  that  the  rock  of  Kansas  is  of 


SOIL. 


25 


immense  value  to  the  State.  It  is  only  necessary  to 
say  here  that  there  is  probably  not  one  acre  in  five 
hundred  in  the  State  where  rock  is  so  exposed  as  to 
make  cultivation  impossible,  and  even  this  is  not 
waste  land,  for  it  affords  excellent  pasturage  with  a 
plenty  of  springs  and  running  water. 

Bayard  Taylor  says:  "I  consider  the  country 
within  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  of  the  Missouri 
Eiver  in  Kansas,  to  be  the  finest  unbroken  tract  of 
farming  land  in  the  world." 


HUMBOLDT    BRIDGE. 

The  above  is  a  King's  Wrought  Iron  Bridge  of  190  span.    It  cost  about  $13,000. 

The  soil  of  the  western  half  of  Kansas  is  very 
different  in  appearance  from  that  of  the  eastern 
half  of  the  State.  While  the  latter  is  black,  the 
former  is  usually  light  colored,  or  reddish  toward 
the  southwestern  part  of  the  State,  excepting  upon 
the  larger  river  bottoms"  but  the  soil  of  western 
Kansas  is  the  deepest,  running  from  two  to  ten  feet. 
Perhaps  upon  no  point  is  there  a  greater  lack  of 
knowledge  concerning  Kansas,  even  by  some  citi- 
2 


26 

zens  of  the  State,  than  in  relation  to  this  western 
Kansas  soil.  This  soil  has  mingled  with  it  very 
little  vegetable  mold  or  humus — that  deposit  of 
decayed  vegetable  matter  which  gives  to  the  soil  of 
eastern  Kansas  its  dark  color. 

The  attentive  observer  will  notice  a  perceptible 
difference  in  this  respect"  however,  even  at  the 
extreme  western  State  line,  between  the  surface  and 
the  soil  two  feet  below.  In  some  localities,  espe- 
cially on  bottom  lands,  the  surface  is  quite  dark, 
and  gradually  grows  lighter  as  you  penetrate  the 
earth. 

This  is.  called  by  geologists,  "  The  Bluff  Forma- 
tion," so  named  by  Professor  Swallow,  because  it 
forms  a  large  proportion  of  the  bluffs  which  are  so 
conspicuous  and  unique  in  the  scenery  about  Council 
Bluffs,  Iowa,  and  in  general  all  along  the  Missouri 
River  bluffs  above  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas  River. 
This  formation  occupies  the  surface  of  a  consider- 
able portion  of  western  Iowa,  extending  east  in  the 
north  part  of  the  State  a  distance  of  forty  or  fifty 
miles.  Its  eastern  limit  seems  to  run  in  a  south- 
westerly direction,  and  it  forms  the  surface  of  nearly 
all  the  State  of  Nebraska,  and  of  the  western  half 
of  Kansas.  It  also  underlies  a  good  portion  of  east- 
ern Kansas,  but  is  here  largely  affected  by  the  char- 
acter of  the  subjacent  rocks.  This  accounts  for  the 
fact,  which  has  often  been  remarked  with  wonder, 
that  the  sub-soil  in  many  places  upon  being  thrown 
to  the  surface,  and  exposed  to  the  action  of  the  air 
and  frost,  produces  as  good  crops  as  the  surface  soil. 

Its  analysis  by  the  Missouri  State  Survey,  gives, 
when  dried  at  212°  Fahr.,  77  per  cent  impalpable 
sand ;  11  per  cent  alumina  (clay);  31  per  cent,  lime; 
5?  per  cent  .pottassa,  magnesia  and  carbonic  acid, 
and  about  3i  per  cent  of  water  and  loss.  This 
analysis  proves  its  agricultural  value;  but  that  point 
is  sufficiently  demonstrated  by  long  experience. 


SOIL.  27 

The,  best  of  crops  grow  upon  this  soil  in  Iowa  and 
Nebraska,  as  I  can  personally  testify.  Its  sand  is 
so  fine  that  no  grit  is  perceptible  to  the  touch,  and 
those  who  cultivate  it  in  Iowa,  call  it  a  fine  light 
clay,  but  it  has  none  of  the  physical  characteristics 
of  a  stiff  clay  soil.  It  never  bakes,  is  ready  for  cul- 
tivation in  a  few  hours  after  a  rain,  and  with  deep 
plowing  will  keep  crops  in  a  thriving  condition  with 
very  little  rain. 

As  the  reader  well  knows,  it  is  not  essential  that 
a  soil  be  black  in  order  that  it  be  productive.  With 
the  single  exception  of  corn,  as  good  crops  are 
raised  upon  much  of  the  red  land  of  Virginia  and 
Tennessee  as  is  ever  grown  upon  the  blackest  soils 
of  Illinois  or  Kansas,  and  deep  plowing  is  all  that 
this  red  land  needs  for  Indian  corn. 

Having  seen  the  luxuriant  crops  that  are  grown 
in  northwestern  Iowa  about  Sioux  City,  upon  the 
light  colored  soil  which  we  have  described,  as  well 
as  the  heavy  crops  upon  newly  cleared  red  lands  of 
Yirginia  and  Tennessee,  I  have  learned  not  to  con- 
demn land  until  it  is  tried,  whether  its  color  be  black, 
white  or  red. 

In  Kansas  this  soil  has  not  been  largely  culti- 
vated, (although  it  is  held  in  high  esteem  by  those 
western  settlers  who  have  tilled  it,)  because  there  are 
at  least  twenty  million  acres  of  rich  black  soil  unoc- 
cupied in  the  State.  But  no  man  appreciates  Kansas 
as  he  ought,  until  he  realizes  that  it  not  only  ranks 
pre-eminent  as  a  grain  producing  and  blue  grass 
State,  but  that  within  its  limits  and  within  one  or 
two  days  drive  of  its  rich  farms,  are  to  be  found  the 
finest  of  pasture  fields  now  open  and  easily  accessi- 
ble to  the  public.  Here  is  free  grazing  upon  the 
buffalo  grass  and  winter  grasses  which  grow  on  the 
rich  soil  we  have  just  described.  Not  only  this  but 
with  deep  plowing,  and  deep  and  early  drilling  of  the 
seed,  this  is  to  be  the  great  winter  wheat  storehouse 


28  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

of  the  nation.  It  is  not  too  far  north  or  south ;  its 
altitude  gives  it  a  superb  harvesting  season,  while 
there  is  rain  enough  for  growing  the  crop  during  the 
cool  season,  The  admixture  of  lime  and  gypsum, 
•with  all  this  soil,  is  a  matter  of  the  utmost  moment. 
That  gypsum  is  almost  universal,  admits  of  little 
doubt,  for  it  is  seen  in  ledges  in  many  places,  and 
it  is  found  crystalized  in  the  form  of  thin  semi-trans- 
parent sheets,  wherever  geologists  have  explored 
western  Kansas.  The  blue-stem,  a  tall  variety  of 
prairie  grass,  chiefly  used  for  hay  in  eastern  Kansas, 
and  which  only  grows  on  rich  corn  land,  is  rapidly 
extending  westward  upon  this  soil,  and  taking  the 
place  of  buffalo  grass. 

Finally,  the  bottom  lands  of  the  Kansas  and 
Arkansas  Eivers,  are  largely  made  up  of  the  wash  of 
these  western  regions,  and  there  is  no  better  soil  in 
the  world  than  these  valleys  afford, 

CLIMATE, 

Many  flowing  sentences  and  well  rounded'  periods- 
nave  been  framed  in  the  endeavor  to  describe  the 
Climate  of  Kansas.  It  has  been  called  "ArcS<W 
but  mOre  frequently  travelers  who  have  been  around 
the  globe,  and  enraptured  citizens  who  write  to 
their  friends  in  the  East,  call  it  an  "  Italian  clime." 
In  truth,  it  is  neither  Arcadia  nor  Italy — at  least  it  is 
not  one  unbroken  round  of  golden  days  and  halcyon 
nights,  but  it  is  quite  certain  that  there  is  no  region 
in  the  United  States,  east  of  the  Kocky  Mountains, 
where  there  is  more  bright,  sunshiny  days  than  we 
have  in  Kansas.  The  winters  are  more  mild  than  in 
the  same  latitude  east  of  us,  and  the  thermometer 
rarely  sinks  below  zero.  During  midsummer  the 
<heat  at  noonday  sometimes  ranges  for  several  days 
from  80  to  100  degrees,  but  the  air  is  so  dry  and 
pure  that  one  scarcely  realizes  the  range  of  the  iner- 


CLIMATE.  29 

cury,  while  the  nights  are  invariably  cool  and  re- 
freshing. Men  work  on  buildings  and  in  other  ex- 
posed situations,  with  safety,  at  a  temperature  which 
would  be  fatal  in  the  eastern  States. 

The  soil  is  so  fruitful  that  farmers  never  feel 
obliged  to  expose  themselves  to  severe  weather,  sum- 
mer or  winter.  Especially  is  our  climate  held  in 
high  esteem  by  those  who  escape  to  it  from  the  ex- 
tremes of  northern  frigidity,  or  from  the  torrid  heats 
of  southern  latitudes. 

It  must  not  be  forgotten  that  Kansas  is  a  State  of 
great  extent  and  of  various  climate.  Sometimes 
there  are  two  or  three  inches  of  snow  in  the  north- 
eastern part  of  the  State,  which  lays  on  the  ground 
three  or  four  days,  and  at  the  same  time  there  will 
be  no  snow  at  all  on  the  southern  border  of  the 
State;  at  other  times  a  light  fall  of  snow  may  cover 
the  State  for  a  week,  but  there  is  no  preparation 
made  for  sleighing,  because  there  is  rarely  more  than 
one*  such  snow  during  a  winter.  Ice  usually  forms 
in  December  or  January  from  four  to  eight  inches  in 
thickness,  but  rarely  thicker  than  six  inches,  and 
two  or  three  winters  have  occurred  when  no  ice 
formed  thick  enough  to  store  in  ice  houses.  Farmers 
can  plow  during  ten  months  of  nearly  every  year  in 
this  State,  and  some  years  every  month.  I  have 
seen  masons  laying  stone  and  mortar  during  every 
month  of  the  year,  although  not  in  every  month  in 
any  one  year,  perhaps,  because  after  building  has 
generally  ceased,  and  the  hands  are  discharged  and 
tools  scattered,  it  is  not  customary  to  commence 
again  until  spring  opens,  which  here  occurs  in  Feb- 
ruary. 

Still  there  are  cold  days  here  and  people  ought 
to  come  prepared  for  them ;  but  there  are  also  bitter 
cold  days  in  Tennessee  or  Texas,  and  taking  our  av- 
erage climate,  it  is  mild  and  agreeable.  Whenever, 
as  during  the  past  winter,  it  is  very  cold  here,  the 


80 

telegraph  always  announces  that  it  is  colder  in  the 
same  latitude  east,  and  much  colder  north  of  us.' 
During  the  past  winter,  1870-71,  we  had  three  con- 
siderable snow  storms;  the  first  six  inches  deep,  of 
light  snow,  and  each  of  the  others  about  three  inches 
deep.  This  was  accompanied  by  almost  continuous 
cold  weather,  sufficiently  so  to  keep  the  ground  cov- 
ered with  snow  for  four  or  five  weeks.  It  has  been, 
by  far,  the  severest  winter  I  ever  experienced  in  the 
State,  and  it  is  the  universal  testimony  of  the  "relia- 
ble old  settlers  "  that  the  snow  never  before  laid  on 
the  ground  so  long. 

The  extraordinary  clearness  of  the  atmosphere 
strikes  all  strangers  as  worthy  of  mention.  Non- 
residents can  form  no  conception  of  this  peculiarity 
of  our  climate,  but  one  may  here  distinguish  objects 
at  a  long  distance,  which  could  hardly  bo  seen  at  all, 
if  the  same  distance  away  in  the  east.  The  vision  is 
thereby  strengthened,  and  man's  natural  powers 
increased,  giving  greater  zest  to  the  pleasure  with 
which  one  rides  across  our  prairie  swells. 

The  most  disagreeable  feature  of  our  climate  is  the 
wind,  but  none  complain  of  the  cool  breezes  which 
healthfully  agitate  the  atmosphere  during  the  sum- 
mer months.  Besides,  all  prairie  regions  are  subject 
to  more  winds  than  timbered  countries. "  The  winds 
are  no  more  severe  here  than  in  other  prairie  States, 
and  the  groves  and  hedges,  which  may  be  speedily 
grown,  will  abate  their  force  and  break  up  their 
currents. 

One  of  the  greatest  blessings  of  our  Kansas  cli- 
mate, is  the  cool  nights  which  invariably  follow 
even  the  hottest  days.  These  nights  are  so  well 
described  by  the  Lawrence  Daily  Journal,  that  I 
quote  as  follows : 

"  The  cool  nights  of  Kansas  refresh  and  invigo- 
rate everything.  No  sooner  does  old  Sol  conclude 
to  bathe  his  burning  forehead  in  the  sea  of  night, 


CLIMATE. 


31 


than  the  whole  atmosphere  changes  and  everything 
is  lovely. 

"We  recall  with  a  twinge  of  agony,  terrific  sum- 
mer nights  spent  in  the  northeastern  States,  when 
the  thermometer  indicated  the  same  degree  of  heat 
at  twelve  midnight  as  at  twelve  noon,  but  nothing 
could  be  more  agreeable  than  our  Kansas  climate  in 
this  respect.  However  hot  the  day,  the  night  is 


ADAMS    HOUSE,  MANHATTAN. 

cool  and  bracing.  A  day  in  which  a  man  is  re- 
minded of  Sydney  Smith's  desire  to  'get  out  of  his 
flesh  and  sit  down  in  his  bones,'  is  followed  by  a 
night  in  which  long  before  daybreak  a  fellow  finds, 
himself  feeling  sleepily  around  the  foot  of  his  bed 


32 


HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 


for  his  blanket.  After  such  a  night  one  arises 
refreshed  for  the  labors,  and  fortified  against  the  heat 
.of  another  day." 

As  the  records  of  scientific  observations  are  the 
true  criterion  by  which  to  judge  of  any  climate,  I 
solicited  from  Prof.  F.  H.  Snow,  the  following  tables, 
for  which  I  am  under  special  obligations  to  him,  as 
well  as  for  other  records  which  are  presented  else- 
where : 

TABLES 

Compiled  by  Prof.  Frank  H.  Snow,  of  Kansas  State 
University  at  Lawrence. 

TABLE  of  Mean  Temperature  of  twenty  States  for 
five  years,' from  January  1st,  1865,  to  January  1st, 
1870,  compiled  from  Reports  of  the  Department 
of  Agriculture: 


STATES. 

SPRING. 

SUMMER 

AUTUMN. 

WINTER. 

YEAR. 

KaneaSi  

52  2 

75  5 

543 

291 

52  8 

Maine  .... 

407 

664 

46  6 

19  8 

434 

New  Hampshire  
Vermont  

41.7 

404 

66.7 
661 

46.6 
45  6 

20.4 
18  4 

43.8 
427 

Massachusetts 

45  0 

68  6 

497 

25  5 

47  2 

450 

69  1 

504* 

25  8 

47  6 

New  York  

43  9 

69  7 

50  0 

249 

47.1 

New  Jersey  

49  8 

723 

543 

303 

51  7 

Pennsylvania  
Maryland  . 

47.3 
51  7 

71.7 
74  2 

52.0 
55  6 

28.1 
324 

49.7 
535 

54  4 

74  5 

55  7 

35  2 

54  9 

Ohio 

49  4 

72  6 

52  7 

29  1 

50  9 

Michigan  

424 

67  8 

491 

24  2 

459 

50  4 

74  2 

53  2 

29  7 

51  9 

Illinois 

47  6 

72  9 

52  0 

25  8 

49  6 

Wisconsin  

41  8 

68  6 

47  8 

20  5 

447 

Minnesota  

39  4 

67  8 

45  3 

14  0 

41  6 

Iowa  

44  5 

71  2 

48  9 

20  3 

46  2 

52  5 

75  5 

30  7 

53  4 

Nebraska  

45  9 

73  4 

51  0 

22  9 

48  4 

Mean  tor  20  States 

463 

70-9 

5  '.8 

254 

48.3 

CLIMATE.  33 

Meteorological  Summary  for  1870  by  Prof.  Snow. 

The  following  table  gives  the  mean  temperature, 
the  extremes  of  temperature,  and  the  rainfall  for 
each  month  of  the  year  1870 : 


MONTHS. 

MEAN. 

MAXIMUM. 

MINIMUM. 

RAINFALL. 

2943 

56.5 

—1.0 

0.67 

35  42 

690 

-  40 

003 

March 

37  69 

71  0 

1  0 

1  86 

April  

5684 

91.0 

19.0 

1.08 

May  .    .            

6800 

900 

440 

246 

7371 

102  0 

440 

1  88 

July  

8027 

99.0 

65.0 

6.5* 

7354 

980 

530 

669 

67  88 

885 

533 

2  82 

October  

5650 

79.0 

29.0 

696 

4492 

720 

17  0 

057 

28.70 

64.0 

—100 

0.72 

Year  1  870 

54  50 

1020 

100 

31  32 

Year  1869  

5036 

960 

—  5.0 

38  51 

Year  1868  

53.36 

1010 

—16.5 

37.48 

Face  of  the  Sky. 

• 

"  Mean  cloudiness  of  the  year,  47.94  per  cent,  of  the 
sky.  Mean  at  7  A.  M.,  50.67  per  cent.;  at  2  p.  M., 
52.94  per  cent.;  at  9  p.  m.,  40.21  per  cent.  In  the 
morning  and  at  midday  the  sky  was  less  cloudy  than 
in  1869,  but  cloudier  at  night."" 

"  The  number  of  clear  days  was  152,  counting  as 
clear  those  days  on  which  less  than  one-third  of  the 
sky  was  covered  with  clouds ;  half-clear  days  93,  in- 
cluding under  this  designation  those  days  on  which 
between  one-third  and  two-thirds  of  the  sky  was 
covered ;  cloudy  days,  120,  when  two-thirds  or  more 
was  covered.  The  clearest  month  was  July,  mean 
cloudiness  30.64  per  cent.;  the  cloudiest  month  wa& 
September,  mean  cloudiness,  68.66  per  cent." 


34  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS.- 

Barometer. 

Mean  hight  of  barometer,  29.097  inches,  being 
0.006  less  than  in '1869.  The  mean  hight  for  the 
two  years,  1869  and  1870,  was  29.100.  Upon- this 
basis,  the  hight  of  the  instrument  above  the  level  of 
the  sea  is  884  feet. 

Mean  hight  at  7  A.  M.,  29.121  inches;  at  2  p.  M.3 
29.074  inches ;  at  9  p.  M.,  29.096  inches.  Maximum 
hight,  29.764  inches,  at  7  A.  M.,  January  8;  minimum, 
28.191  inches,  at  12:45  p.  M.,  January  16,  giving  a 
range  of  1.573  inches  for  the  year.  The  highest 
monthly  mean  was  in  December,  29.192  inches;  the 
lowest  in  May,  29.005  inches.  All  the  barometer 
observations  were  reduced  to  the  freezing  point. 

Relative  Humidity. 

Mean  for  the  year,  68.4.  Mean  at  7  A.  M.,  80.4.; 
at  2  p.  M.,  49.9 ;  at  9  p.  M.,  74.8.  Air  saturated  with 
moisture,  48  times;  number  of  fogs,  13.  The  driest 
month  was  April,  relative  humidity  54.7 ;  the  damp- 
est month  was  September,  relative  humidity  82.8. 
The  air  was  driest  at  2  p.  M.,  February  18th,  when 
the  relative  humidity  was  only  2,  this  remarkable 
condition  of  the  atmosphere  being  followed  by  a  sud- 
den change  of  temperature  within  twenty  four  hours." 

Force  of  Vapor. 

Mean  for  the  year,  0.344  inches ;  mean  at  7  A.  M., 
0.337 ;  at  2  p.  M.,  0.342;  at  9  p.  M.,  0.352;  greatest,  0.863, 
at  2.  p.  M.,  July  10;  least,  0.008,  at  2  p.  M.,  February  18. 

Frosts. 

"An  important  fact  in  regard  to  the  long  period  of 
entire  absence  of  frost,  ought,  perhaps,  to  be  men- 


RAINFALL  AND  CHANGE  OF  CLIMATE.     35 

tioned.  There  was  no  frost  in  1868,  from  April  10 
to  September  17 — one  hundred  and  sixty  days ;  in 
1869,  from  April  13  to  September  26 — one  hundred 
and  sixty-six  days;  in  1870,  from  April  18 to  October 
12 — one  hundred  and  seventy-seven  days.  The  in- 
terval between  the  latest  and  earliest  severe  frosts 
would  be  considerably  longer — one  hundred  and 
ninety-seven  days  in  1870." 

RAINFALL   AND   CHANGE   OF   CLIMATE. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  facts  in  relation  to  the 
settlement  of  this  country,  and  yet  one  of  the  most 
difficult  to  illustrate  and  explain,  is  the  change  of 
seasons  which  is  here  taking  place.  I  do  not  allude 
especially  to  the  increased  rainfall  which  is  evident 
in  all  the  region  west  of  the  Missouri,  wherever 
there  are  settlements  and  railroads,  because  the  me- 
teorogical  records  show  that  the  mean  annual  pre- 
cipitation of  moisture  in  Eastern  Kansas,  has  always 
been  sufficient  for  agricultural  purposes,  if  we  except 
the  single  year  of  1860.  Being  desirous  of  knowing 
whether  such  a  drouth  might  be  expected  to  occur 
again,  I  took  occasion,  when  visiting  Washington  on 
the  succeeding  winter,  to  examine  the  records  at  the 
Smithsonian  Institute,  having  the  aid  of  one  of  the 
assistant  officers  of  the  Institution,  and  found  that 
the  rainfall  was  as  great  during  the  seventeen  years 
preceding  1860,  at  Fort  Leavenworth  and  Fort  Scott, 
Kansas,  as  in  Illinois  or  Missouri. 

From  the  many  tables  which  have  been  since  pub- 
lished, and  from  those  elsewhere  given  in  this  book, 
it  is  evident  that  the  mean  annual  rainfall  of  Kansas 
has  always  been  quite  sufficient.  But  jt  is  a  fact 
patent  to  all  "old  settlers"  that  we  °have  more 
showers  than  formerly,  more  rainy,  drizzly  days, 
more  occasions  when  one  can  carry  an  umbrella  in  a 
rainstorm.  The  word  "storm,"  which  is  almost 


RAINFALL    AND   CHANGE   OF   CLIMATE.  37 

invariably  applied  to  a  rain  in  this  country,  shows 
the  character  of  those  events.  Ten  or  fifteen  years 
ago  few  people  kept  umbrellas  in  Kansas,  because 
"when  it  rained  it  poured,"  and  the  wind  blew  with 
such  force  that  an  umbrella  could  hardly  be  carried. 
The  rains  were  indeed  storms,  severe  but  short,  a 
heavy  fall  of  rain  occuring  in  a  few  hours.  It  is  not 
only  my  experience,  but  the  universal  testimony  of 
all  who  have  been  here  ten  or  more  years,  that  the 
rain  storms  are  less  severe,  and  the  rainy  days  more 
frequent,  than  of  old.  I  have  endeavored  to  collect 
statistics  upon  this  point;  but  not  many  observations 
are  recorded  as  to  the  number  of  rainy  days. 

Prof.  F.  H.  Snow  writes  me  under  date  of  January 
16,  1871: 

"My  records  at  this  place  cover  only  three  years. 
From  these  it  appears  that  rain  fell  in  1868,  on  64 
days ;  in  1869,  on  92  days ;  in  1870,  on  97  days.  In 
the  absence  of  positive  proof  from  records,  it  certainly 
would  be  legitimate  to  cito  the  testimony  of  many 
of  our  "old  settlers'*  to  the  fact  that  the  rain  fall  is 
more  evenly  distributed  now  than  ten  years  ago, 
coming  at  shorter  intervals  and  more  gently,  and 
that  single  storms, -or  showers,  extend  evermore 
hours  than  formerly.  This  belief  I  have  often  heard 
expressed  by  our  most  intelligent  citizens." 

It  is  not  a  new  or  startling  theory  to  claim  that  a 
change  of  seasons  is  taking  place  in  Kansas.  Cali- 
fornia is  a  marked  illustration  of  the  changes  in  cli- 
mate, which  succeed  settlement.  Especially  is  this 
shown  also  in  the  vicinity  of  Salt  Lake.  Utah. 

Here  is  a  region  once  comparatively  destitute  of 
rain,  but  where 'now  almost  enough  falls  to  supply 
the  growing  crops.  Great  Salt  Lake,  which  is  more 
than  one  hundred  miles  long  and  forty  or  fifty  miles 
wide,  is  said  to  have  risen  twelve  feet  since  the  Mor- 
mons commenced  the  settlements,  and  the  water  has 
a  smaller  proportion  of  salt. 


38  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

Illustrations  of  the  ill  effects  to  climate,  resulting 
from  clearing  away  the  forests  of  timbered  regions, 
are  too  well  known  tx>  call  for  recital.  But  without 
taking  the  reader  to  Europe  and  Asia,  where  the 
most  disastrous  consequences  have  occurred,  these 
effects  may  be  traced  in  -all  the  older  northern  States. 
During  the  year  1870  a  drouth  of  alarming  severity 
occurred  in  New  England,  which  is  ascribed,  as  have 
been  many  lesser  drouths  of  the  last  quarter  of  a 
century,  to  clearing  off  nearly  all  the  timbered  land. 

The  effect  of  railroads  and  telegraphs,  is  undoubt- 
edly to  cause  more  frequent  showers,  perhaps  by 
promoting  a  more  even  distribution  of  the  magnetic 
forces.  From  some  cause  it  is  certain  that  thunder 
storms  are  less  severe  than  formerly,  in  Kansas. 

A.  D.  Richardson,  after  returning  from  his  last 
trip  across  the  continent,  informed  me  he  was  con- 
vinced that  railroads  and  telegraphs  do  have  an  effect 
upon  the  climate  and  cause  an  increased  and  more 
frequent  rainfall.  It  is  quite  well  understood  also 
that  trees  and  he.dges,  in  various  ways  tend  to  in- 
crease the  fall  of  rain,  and  the  planting  of  these  ob- 
jects is  the  cause  usually  indicated  for  our  change  of 
seasons. 

But  I  think  the  main  cause  remains  to  be  stated. 
When  rain  strikes  upon  the  compact  surface  of  our 
rolling  prairies,  it  almost  immediately  runs  off,  very 
little  settling  into  the  ground.  Having  no  ponds  or 
swamps  in  the  State,  and  our  streams  all  being  rapid, 
the  rain  so.on  runs  away.  But  with  the  settlement  of 
the  country,  every  piece  of  cultivated  land  becomes  a 
reservoir,  or  cistern,  wherein  is  collected  and  retained 
for  a  considerable  time,  most  of  the  water  which 
falls  upon  its  surface  and  sinks  into  the  mellow  soil. 
A  portion  of  this  rainfall  gradually  finds  its  way  to 
the  surface  in  lower  places,  causing  living  springs  to 
appear  where  before  there  was  no  sign  of  water, 
while  another  portion  of  the  rainfall  caught  in  the 


RAINFALL    AND   CHANGE   OF   CLIMATE.  39 

plowed  land  evaporates  from  the  field.  Thus  the 
atmosphere  is  charged,  to  a  degree,  with  moisture, 
and  a  very  little  addition  in  this  respect  is  often  suf- 
ficient to  produce  rain.  Sometimes  we  say  "  it  almost 
rains,"  yet  there  is  lacking  in  the  atmosphere  a  very- 
few  degrees  of  humidity,  and  in  consequence  of  this 
lack  no  rain  falls.  It  is  plain  that  at  such  times,  the 
slight  change  in  the  atmospheric  conditions  caused 
by  the  evaporation  of  water  retained  upon  tilled 
land  would  cause  rain.  In  this  State  the  entire  pro- 
cess of  subjugating  the  country  is  precisely  opposite 
to  that  which  takes  place  in  a  timbered  country.  In 
the  latter  case  the  trees  which,  with  their  foliage, 
protected  the  ground  from  the  direct  rays  of  the 
sun,  are  cut  down.  The  logs  and  sticks  and  withered 
leaves  are  removed,  which  caught  the  rain  and  re- 
tained it  in  little  pools  or  bogs.  Fallen  trees  are 
cleared  out  of  the  streams,  and  in  every  way  the 
water  is  given  free  course  and  more  rapidly  finds  its 
way  to  the  sea.  On  the  other  hand,  in  settling  a 
prairie  country  more  water  is  retained,  as  already  ex- 
plained, and  the  ground  is  shaded  during  summer 
months  by  growing  crops,  while  newly  planted  trees 
and  hedges  add  their  influence  to  the  causes  which 
produce  a  climate  continually  growing  more  humid. 
Upon  the  contrary  the  climate  of  a  timbered  country 
continually  grows  less  humid  as  the  country  is  cleared 
of  timber,  and  the  springs  and  streams  dry  up. 

There  are  in  Kansas  to-day  thousands  of  springs 
where  there  were  no  springs  a  few  years  ago,  and 
other  thousands  of  springs  which  formerly  were  dry 
in  the  summer,  now  flow  continually.  It  is  for  this  rea- 
son, in  part,  that  there  is  now  so  much  greater  value 
attached  to  the  water  power  of  the  State  than  there 
was  a  dozen  years  ago,  as  the  streams  are  continually 
increasing  in  power  and  regularity.  This  process  will 
go  on,  and  all  one  has  to  do  to  induce  springs  upon 
his  land  is  to  break  up  and  cultivate  his  soil. 


40 


HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 


In  the  western  portion  of  the  State  especially,  and 
generally  in  all  the  country  called  "  The  Plains/'  the 
ascent  towards  the  Eocky  Mountains  is  very  rapid, 
and  the  falling  rain  runs  off  almost  immediately. 
The  rise  in  the  western  half  of  the  State  and  in 
Colorado  is  ten  to  fifteen  feet  per  mile.  Consider 
that  the  fall  of  the  Missouri  river,  one  of  the  most 
rapid  of  large  rivers,  is  less  than  one  foot  per  mile, 
and  it  will  be  seen  that  the  streams  upon  the  plains 
must  be  very  rapid,  while  the  entire  face  of  the 
country  is  also  considerably  undulating,  carrying  off 
the  rain  from  the  compact  surface  with  extraor- 
dinary rapidity.  Add  to  this  influence  the-inereased 
rapidity  of  evaporation  arising  from  the  increased 
altitude,  and  we  discern  at  once  one  of  the  causes 
why  "The  Plains"  are  not  "covered  with  a  deep 
layer  of  vegetable  mold  like  Eastern  Kansas. 
TABLE  showing  the  average  rainfall  of  Kansas,  in 

comparison  with  that  of  other  States,  for  the  five 

years  from  January  1,  1865,  to  January  1,  1870. 

By  Prof.  F.  H.  Snow : 


STATES. 

SPRING. 

SUMMER 

AUTUMN. 

WINTEB 

MARCH  1, 
TO 
OCTOBER  1 

TEAE. 

Kansas  

1082 

1806 

979 

542 

34  15 

44  09 

Maine 

1374 

1055 

13  33 

9  99 

28  23 

47  61 

New  Hampshire  
Vermont  

10.40 
1031 

10.49 
1044 

12.66 
11  82 

7.85 
732 

25.40 
2501 

41.40 
39  89 

1346 

11  17 

11  72 

1020 

28  71 

4655 

Connecticut  

1301 

1334 

1311 

1054 

3088 

50  00 

New  York. 

11  16 

11  19 

1241 

992 

2685 

4468 

1318 

13  88 

1253 

11  39 

31  81 

50  Q8 

Pennsylvania  

1204 

1246 

11  17 

1001 

2905 

45  68 

13  67 

1395 

1239 

11  22 

32  05 

51  23 

15  18 

13  77 

9  88 

1250 

33  92 

51  33 

Ohio  

12.34 

11.73 

9  80 

8  09 

2924 

4196 

Michigan  

8  32 

9  90 

11  00 

647 

23  19 

35  69 

1435 

12  84 

1032 

9  27 

32  94 

4678 

Illinois  

11  53 

1207 

814 

602 

27  92 

37.76 

892 

1323 

8  16 

5  87 

2553 

36  18 

Minnesota  

6.09 

13.39 

8.42 

378 

2443 

31.68 

lo'vsa  

1057 

16.72 

886 

638 

32  14 

4253 

Missouri               

12  67 

1334 

9  29 

642 

3074 

41  72 

Nebraska  

8.76 

12.56 

6.25 

5.09 

24.93 

32.62 

Average  rainfall  in  20 
States  for  5  years. 

11.52 

12.75 

10.55 

8.19 

28.86 

43.01 

42  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

Concerning  this  table,  Professor  Snow  writes  as 
follows : 

"  Twenty  States  were  included  in  the  comparison, 
those  States  engaged  in  the  rebellion  being  omitted 
because  the  returns  from  them  during  the  years 
1865,  '66,  '67,  were  too  meager  to  afford  trustworthy 
results.  From  the  comparison  it  appears  that  the 
total  annual  rainfall  for  Kansas,  during  the  five 
years,  was  greater  than  that  of  the  following  States  ; 
New  Hampshire,  Vermont,  Ohio,  Michigan,  Illinois, 
Wisconsin,  Minnesota,  Iowa,  Missouri  and  Nebraska. 
(10  States  out  of  the  19).  I  have  also  calculated  the 
amount  of  rain  in  each  of  the  twenty  States  for  each 
of  the  four  seasons.  The  result  shows  that  while 
Kansas  has  less  rain  in  the  winter  months  than  any 
other  State  on  the  list,  except  Nebraska,  she  has 
more  rain  in  the  remaining  nine  months  than  any  of 
the  other  States,  except  Connecticut,  Maryland,  New 
Jersey  and  Kentucky.  It  also  appears  that  for  the 
seven  months  from  the  first  of  March  to  the  first  of  Octo- 
ber, when  rain  is  needed  for  the  germination  and  growth 
of  crops,  Kansas  stands  at  the  head  of  the  list,  having 
more  rain  than  any  of  the  nineteen  States  with  which 
the  comparison  is  made." 

Mr.  Watts  Beckwith,  of  Olathe,  Kansas,  who  re- 
ports meteorological  observations  for  publication  by 
the  Agricultural  Department  at  Washington,  has 
kindly  furnished  me  with  the  following  table,  which 
also  illustrates  the  last  statement  of  Professor  Snow, 
given  above,  and  shows  the  heavy  rainfall  that  takes 
place  in  Kansas  during  the  growing  mosths  of  the 
year: 


HEALTH. 


43 


TABLE  showing  the  rainfall  in  Kansas  during  each 
month  for  six  years,  from  1865  to  1870  inclusive, 
from  recorded  observations  by  Mr.  Watts  Beck- 
with: 


MONTHS. 

1865 

1866 

1867 

1868 

1869 

1870 

2.5 

26 

o 

6 

39 

3 

49 

6 

34 

1 

o 

March  ."  

36 

20 

2  9 

7  7 

1  9 

2 

April.... 

66 

30 

4.1 

49 

5 

6 

May  

7  9 

43 

84 

49 

5  6 

7  1 

15  8 

106 

3 

5  8 

11  7 

27 

July  

137 

98 

57 

67 

17  7 

65 

August  . 

13  1 

1  4 

22 

162 

4  9 

7  0 

81 

166 

2 

5 

63 

22 

October  

a  9 

56 

2. 

2 

23 

61 

o 

38 

1  5 

1  7 

5 

December  

1.8 

3.4 

1^3 

3.5 

9 

5 

Mr.  Beckwith  also  says : 

"  I  think  of  late  years  we  also  have  less  thunder 
and  lightning,  but  this  I  have  not  recorded  as  care- 
fully as  the  amount  of  rainfall." 

It  should  be  noted  that  all  the  records  from  which 
the  foregoing  figures  of  rainfall  in  Kansas,  have  been 
collated,  were  made  in  the  eastern  half  of  Kansas. 
Unquestionably  less  rain  falls  in  Western  Kansas, 
than  the  tables"  indicate,  but  the  increase  in  that  por- 
tion of  the  State  is  very  noticeable. 

HEALTH. 

To  write  upon  this  subject  so  as  to  be  understood, 
we  must  compare  this  with  other  States.  Although 
the  climate  of  Eastern  Kansas  is  somewhat  less 
bracing  and  vigorous  than  that  of  States  farther 
north,  it  is  much  more  so  than  the  same  latitude 
anywhere  east  of  us  and  west  of  the  Alleghanies, 
and  it  is  conceded  that  Kansas  will  eventually  be 
reckoned  as  the  most  healthful  of  all  western  States. 

In  northern  latitudes  it  is  to  be  observed  that  peo- 


44  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

pie  usually  build  close  houses,  so  constructed  that  no 
fresh  air  can  enter.  Shutting  themselves  up  in  small 
rooms,  heated  by  that  modern  barbarism,  an  iron 
stove,  or  hot  air  furnace,  they  hibernate  during  the 
long  winter  months.  This  seems  to  be  a  necessity 
of  all  that  damp,  inhospitable  winter  climate,  which 
is  found  north  of  our  latitude  and  east  of  the  Missis- 
sippi Eiver,  but  the  hydra-headed  diseases  which 
seize  so  many  victims  in  those  regions  are  largely 
induced  by  this  housing  process.  In  Kansas  people 
live  more  out  of  doors.  Dwellings  may  safely  be 
constructed  with  less  care  to  keep  out  fresh  air,  and 
during  many  winter  days,  doors  and  windows  are 
left  wide  open.  There  is  no  place  in  the  world  which 
is  best  adapted  to  all  persons,  but  regions  like  Kan- 
sas, which  occupy  an  admirable  mean  between  the 
extremes  of  latitude,  are  best  suited  to  the  constitu- 
tion of  a  majority  of  mankind. 

It  is  not  true,  as  many  suppose,  that  Kansas  cli- 
mate is  uniform  in  temperature.  This  cannot  be 
truthfully  asserted  of  any  portion  of  the  United 
States  east  of  the  Eocky  Mountains,  but  the  remark- 
able dry  ness  of  our  climate  so  mollifies  the  influence 
of  the  sudden  changes  to  which,  in  common  with 
other  States,  we  are  subjoct,  that  their  effect  is  much 
less  injurious  here  than  elsewhere.  The  rains  of 
Kansas  chiefly  fall  during  the  summer  months,  caus- 
ing the  fertile  soil  to  yield  a  vegetation  almost  trop- 
ical in  its  luxuriance,  but  during  the  cooler  seasons 
we  have  little  rain,  and  the  air  is  dry  and  bracing. 
Damp  air  causes  damp  clothing,  and  moisture  is  a 
good  conductor  of  heat.  In  the  humid  atmosphere 
of  more  eastern  States,  clothing  is  at  times  ineffect- 
ual towards  keeping  the  body  warm,  and  at  these 
times  sudden  changes  are  fatal  to  many,  and  danger- 
ous to  all.  But  in  the  dry,  elastic  Kansas  atmos- 
phere, woolen  clothing 'completely  protects  the  per- 
son, and  thus  protected,  sudden  changes  are  sustained 


HEALTH.  45 

with  little  danger  to  health.  An  atmosphere  so  pure 
and  dry  that  it  will  preserve  fresh  meats  in  hot 
weather,  without  salting,  must  be  a  healthy  and 
invigorating  atmosphere.  This  is  the  case  in  the 
extreme  western  portion  of  the  State.  "Jerked 
meat" — layers  of  lean  meat,  jerked  off  by  tearing  the 
fibres,  and  then  cured  in  the  sun — keeps  through  the 
season,  and  after  August,  quarters  of  beef,  buffalo,  ven- 
ison, etc.,  suspended  a  few  feet  above  the  ground, 
keep  perfectly  sweet.  In  this  atmosphere,  Kansas 
offers  great  advantages  to  all  consumptives,  or  per- 
sons with  asthmatic  or  bronchial  difficulties.  In  this, 
too,  there  is  great  room  for  choice  in  location. 

In  the  three  degrees  of  latitude  which  Kansas 
occupies,  we  will  find  st  very  considerable  difference 
in  temperature  between  the  northern  and  southern 
extremes  of  the  State,  but  to  a  greater  extent  will 
the  careful  observer  note  a  difference  between  the 
eastern  and  western  limits  .of  Kansas.  This  differ- 
ence arises  from  two  causes.  It  is  a  well  known 
fact  that  the  .Rocky  Mountain  range  induces  a  heavy 
precipitation  of  moisture  upon  their  western  slopes, 
leaving  their  eastern  slopes,  and  a  belt  of  considera- 
ble width  stretching  eastward  therefrom,  and  known 
as  "the  plains,"  that  has  but  little  rain.  The  wes- 
tern limits  of  Kansas  trench  upon  this  region,  and 
the  dry  air  which  passes  over  these  plains  is  vastly 
beneficial  to  invalids,  whether  suffering  from  pulmo- 
nary complaints,  or  from  general  debility,  indigestion 
or  nervous  exhaustion.  The  second  cause  to  which 
I  refer  is  the  altitude  to  which  one  may  attain  in 
Kansas.  As  already  shown  the  State  rises  gradually 
from  its  eastern  to  its  western  -boundary,  attaining 
an  altitude  of  3500  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
The  height  of  the  Cumberland  Mountain  plateau,  in 
Tennessee,  is  only  1000  feet  above  the  miasmatic  bot- 
toms of  the  Tennessee  River,  which  flows  at  its  base, 
and  its  average  altitude  above  the  ocean  about  1800 


46  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

feet,  which  is  less  than  the  average  altitude  of  Wes- 
tern Kansas  above  the  same  level.  The  former  is 
famous  as  a  resort  for  invalids — the  latter  will  be 
more  famous  whenever  its  advantages  are  fully 
known.  The  entire  State  is  so  favorably  situated 
in  these  regards  that  little  attention  has  been  paid 
to  the  relative  claims  for  healthfulness  of  its  various 
portions.  "Burleigh,"  the  well  known  correspon- 
dent of  the  Boston  Journal,  (Matthew  Hale  Smith), 
write  thus  under  date  of  November,  1870  : 

"  Before  I  speak  of  Topeka,  the  Capital  of  Kansas, 
I  will  mention  a  few  peculiarities  of  the  State.  The 
name  given  to  -the  atmosphere  is  that  of  *  cham- 
pagne,' from  its  exhilarating  properties.  It  is  very 
elastic  and  invigorating.  Its  effect  on  diseased,  de- 
bilitated and  worn  out  systems,  is  very  remarkable." 

It  may  be  mentioned  as  illustrative  of  the  peculiar 
properties  of  the  atmosphere  of  Kansas,  that  horses 
are  never  known  to  contract  the  "heaves"  in  this 
State,  that  disease  which  is  so  common  and  fatal  to 
horses  in  States  east  of  us. 

Kansas  also  occupies  a  favorable  mean  in  relation 
to  two  distinct  types  of  diseases  which  are  found — 
the  one  in  very  low  miasmatic  regions  and  the  other 
in  elevated  and  mountainous  localities.  Concerning 
the  former  complaints,  they  have  not  extensively 
prevailed  in  Kansas,  excepting  in  unfavorable  situa- 
tions during  the  early  settlement  of  the  country,  and 
it  is  confidently  asserted  that  in  no  country  east  of 
us  did  the  early  settlers  experience  less  sickness.  It 
is  a  fact  also  worthy  of  mention  that  all  localities 
most  subject  to  fever  and  ague  have  been  settled  for 
some  years,  and  this  disease  is  consequently  disap- 
pearing with  the  improvement  of  the  country,  while 
the  newer  and  more  elevated  portions  of  the  State 
are  not  subject  to  its  attacks. 

Concerning  the  class  of  rheumatic  and  acute 
febrile  diseases  which  prevail  in  all  mountainous 


WATER. 


47 


regions,  Kansas  is  almost  entirely  exempt  from  them; 
Vendors  of  "  liniments  and  "  Poor  Man's  Plasters,' 
are  not  advised  to  come  to  Kansas. 


WATER. 


The  water  of  springs  and  wells  in  this  State  is 
pure  and  good.  There  are  small  isolated  tracts,  em- 
bracing two  or  three  farms  each,  where  good,  clear 
water  is  not  easily  obtained  by  digging;  but  the 


LUDINGTON    HOUSE,  OTTAWA. 

settlers  here,  like  the  settlers  upon  large  tracts  of 
country  in  Missouri,  Iowa  and  Illinois,  where  the 
well  water  is  uniformly  turbid  and  unpalatable  to 
the  taste,  must  drink  rain  water  caught  in  cisterns. 
This  is  healthful,  and  by  use  becomes  agreeable.  It 
is  probable  that  on  some  of  the  high  divides  between 
streams  in  the  western  portion  of  the  State,  it  may 
not  be  easy  to  find  water  by  digging.  In  fact,  the 
Kansas  Pacific  Railroad  failed  to  obtain  water  by 


48  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

digging  at  two  or  three  of  their  stations  near  the 
western  State  line;  but  of  the  many  emigrants, 
buffalo  hunters  and  others  who  have  traversed  all 
the  western  portion  of  the  State,  none  say  that  they 
have  much  difficulty  in  finding  water,  either  flowing 
from  springs  or  by  digging  a  few  feet  in  favorable 
localities.  It  is  a  peculiarity  of  some  streams  in  the 
extreme  western  portion  of  the  State,  that  they  sud- 
denly sink  into  quick  sands,  and  appear  again  a  few 
miles  below. 

One  of  the  first  things  for  a  settler  to  do  here,  as 
in  any  country,  is  to  provide  good  pure  water.  Dig 
a  well  at  once,  unless  you  are  near  a  spring,  and  do  not 
drink  surface  or  creek  water.  This  custom  of  west- 
ern settlers,  I  believe  to  be  the  cause  of  more  sick- 
ness than  any  other,  or  prehaps  all  other  bad  habits 
or  unnecessary  exposures  of  western  life.  Of  all  the 
eastern  half  of  the  State,  a  tract  of  country  two 
hundred  miles  square,  and — if  we  except  the  inhabi- 
table portions  of  Maine— ras  large  as  all  New  Eng- 
land, it  can  be  truthfully  stated  that  it  is  abundantly 
watered  with  springs  and  streams  for  stock  pur- 
poses, and  that  clear,  healthful"  drinking  water  is 
universally  obtained  from  springs,  or  by  digging 
from  twenty  to  sixty  feet.  It  is  a  peculiarity  of  the 
country,  that  water  is  often  found  upon  the  high 
prairies  at  a  less  depth  than  on  the  low  lands.  The 
water  here  is  not,  as  in  other  western  States,  uni- 
formly hard.  Settlers  can  locate  where  they  may 
have  soft  or  freestone  water  if  they  prefer,  as  in  a 
small  portion  of  the  State  the  sandstone  formation 
predominates,  which  furnishes  soft  water. 

All  the  streams  in  the  settled  portion  of  the  State 
are  larger  than  when  the  country  was  new,  and 
many  brooks  and  creeks  flow  continuously,  which 
were  formerly  dry  several  months  in  each  year. 
Not  only  is  this  well  known  to  all  early  settlers,  but 
there  are  thousands  of  springs  on  the  prairies  where 


WATER.  49 

there  was  formerly  no  indication  of  one.  This  phe- 
nomenon is  owing  to  causes  to  which  we  have  more 
fully  alluded  under  the  head  of  Climatic  Changes. 

The  editor  of  the  Chicago  Railway  Review,  spent 
several  weeks  of  1870,  in  a  thorough  examination  of 
Kansas,  as  he  had  previously  examined  the  other 
Western  States.  In  his  paper  of  October  27, 1870,  he 
says : 

"  The  readers  of  our  previous  articles  must  fce 
convinced  that  eastern  Kansas  is  anything  but  a 
region  destitute  of  streams.  No  country  in  the  world 
is  better  watered." 

In  the  early  settlement  of  the  country  all  the  prin- 
cipal roads  were  laid  out  on  the  divides,  winding 
about  between  the  sources  of  the  streams,  because 
bridges  could  not  at  once  be  erected,  and  roads  cut 
through  the  timber  growing  on  their  banks.  From 
this  fact  many  early  travelers  in  Kansas,  following 
the  principal  roads,  concluded  that  there  were  few 
streams  in  the  country.  The  railroads,  however, 
take  a  direct  course  across  the  country,  and  bridg- 
ing is  an  expensive  part  of  the  work.  A  report  of 
the  bridge  contractors  of  the  Leavenworth,  Law- 
rence &  Galveston  .Railroad,  was  published  in  the 
Ottawa  Journal  of  December  16,  1870,  and  this 
report  shows  that  in'a  distance  of  one  hundred  eight 
and  one-half  miles  south  from  Lawrence  to  Thayer, 
there  were  constructed  sixty-seven  bridges  and 
trestles,  (besides  culverts,) — being  nearly  one  to 
every  mile  and  a  half  of  the  road.  More  than  three 
million  feet  of  timber  was  used  in  the  construction 
of  these  bridges  and  trestles.  A  glance  at  the  map 
will  show  that  this  railroad  does  not  follow  the 
windings  of  one  or  two  streams.  The  line  is  directly 
across  the  country  over  divides  from  the  Kansas 
Eiver  to  the  Marais  des  Cygnes,  thence  to  the  Potta- 
watomie  and  thence  to  the  Neosho.  A  few  trestles 
3 


50 

are  reported  as  over  unimportant  ravines,  in  which 
probably  there  is  not  a  constant  stream  of  water 
flowing,  but  the  general  evidence  of  this  report  is, 
that  Kansas  railroads  are  pretty  well  bridged  for  a 
country  "destitute  of  stock  water,"  as  she  has  been 
reported  to  be. 

TIMBER. 

In  the  eastern  half  of  Kansas  there  is  a  sufficiency 
of  timber  for  practical  purposes.  It  is  found  along 
the  streams  and  in  adjacent  ravines,  sheltered  from 
the  ravages  of  prairie  fires  by  high  rock-capped 
bluffs.  The  following  is  a  list  of  the  trees  and  shrubs 
of  this  State,  prepared  by  Dr.  C.  A.  Logan  for  a 
State  document  on  the  sanitary  relations  of  Kansas : 

White  Oak,  Red  Oak,  Burr  Oak,  Black  Oak,  Black 
Jack  Oak,  Water  Oak,  White  or  American  Elm,  Red 
or  Slippery  Elm,  Black  Walnut,  White  Walnut  or 
Butternut,'  Cottonwood,  Box  Elder,  Hackberry, 
Honey  Locust,  Willow,  Shell  Bark  Hickory,  Pig  Nut 
Hickory,  Pecan  Nut  Hickory,  Sycamore,  White 
Ash,  Sugar  Maple,  Red  Mulberry,  Linden  or  Bass- 
wood,  Crab  Apple,  Wild  Cherry,  Coffee  Tree. 

Of  shrubs  and  vines  he  gives  Elder,  Sumac,  Green 
Brier,  Gooseberry,  Hazel,  Pawpaw,  Prickly  Ash, 
Raspberry,  Blackberry,  Prairie  Rose,  and  Grapes  of 
several  varieties. 

The  streams,  with  their  attendant  timber  belts, 
varying  in  width  from  two  or  three  rods  to  as  many 
miles,  so  cut  the  prairies  in  every  direction  that  few 
farms  of  Eastern  Kansas  are  more  than  one  or  two 
miles  from  timber,  and  cordwood  sells  from  four  to 
six  dollars  per  cord  in  our  towns.  This  wonderful 
advantage  over  most  prairie  States  is  appreciated  by 
the  writer  at  least,  for  my  first  experience  in  western 
farming  was  in  Illinois,  forty  miles  from  Chicago, 
when  every  rail  and  fence  post  and  stick  of  fire- 


TIMBER.  51 

wood,  or  whip  stock  even,  was  hauled  ten  miles. 
Many  splendid  farms  have  been  opened  in  that  State, 
by  hauling  timber  twenty  miles. 

Kansas  really  needs  less  timber  than  any  other 
western  State.  Nowhere  else  is  there  as  much  good 
stone  available  for  building  purposes,  while  coal  is 
abundant  and  good.  Yet  I  think  that  in  no  other 
prairie  State,  is  there  a  fair  supply  of  timber  so 
evenly  distributed.  The  mild  climate  of  this  State 
and  the  comparative  dryness  of  the  winter  months, 
really  makes  the  demand  for  timber  less  imperative 
than  in  localities  subject  to  excessive  cold  weather, 
or  where  cattle  need  continued  shelter  from  cold 
rains.  In  the  latter  respect  the  timber  in  this  State 
is  distributed  in  exact  proportion  to  the  wants  of 
the  country,  for  on  the  western  and  comparatively 
treeless  prairies  the*e  is  very  little  precipitation  of 
moisture  during  cold  weather. 

In  the  older  settled  portions  of  the  State,  consider- 
able of  the  best  timber  has  been  cut,  but  railroads 
are  already  constructed  in  every  county  in  this  re- 
gion, bringing  pine  at  moderate  prices  (which  are 
given  elsewhere)  from  the  upper  Mississippi  and 
Michigan  pineries.  Two  or  three  lines  of  Kansas 
railroads  are  also  soon  to  penetrate  the  pineries 
south  of  this  State.  By  these  roads  pine  will  be  fur- 
nished at  low  rates.  It  now  sells  at  the  mills  in  the 
pineries  of  the  Indian  Territory,  Arkansas  and  Tex- 
as, at  ten  dollars  to  fifteen  dollars  per  thousand  feet. 
The  hard  pine  of  southern  pineries  is  unsurpassed 
for  fencing,  framing  stuif  and  flooring,  and  much  of 
it  makes  excellent  siding,  shingles,  etc. 

When  large  timber  is  cut,  the  remaining  young 
trees  grow  with  accelerated  rapidity,  and  as  soon  as 
prairie  fires  are  checked  timber  springs  up  on  the 
open  prairies,  and  in  our  rich  soil  soon  becomes  avail- 
able lor  domestic  uses.  Besides,  as  is  shown  else- 
where, it  is  a  very  easy  matter  to  grow  a  thrifty 


52  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

young  forest.  In  these  ways  the  growth  of  native 
timber  in  the  older  settled  prairie  regions  of  Illinois 
and  Missouri  have  exceeded  the  consumption,  so  that 
there  is  actually  more  timber  in  many  localities  than 
there  was  fifty  years  ago. 

PRAIRIE    GRASS. 

Some  writers  have  erroneously  treated  of  "prairie 
grass  "  as  a  distinct  variety  of  grass,  whereas  all 
grasses  growing  upon  the  prairie  are  classed  under 
this  general  name.  There  are  many  distinct  varie- 
ties of  these  wild  grasses,  which  it  would  be  tedious 
and  profitless  to  mention  by  name. 

Excepting  those  varieties  which  pass  under  the 
general  name  of  buffalo  grass,  the  prairie  grasses 
of  Kansas  are  similar  to  those  of  other  prairie 
states.  They  cover  the  entire  surface  of  the  earth, 
and  stand  from  one  foot  to  six  feet  in  hight.  Tall 
coarse  grasses  grow  on  the  bottom  lands,  and  the 
hay  made  from  them  sells  in  towns  for  a  dollar  or 
two  per  ton  less  than  "upland  hay,"  which  is  made 
from  the  shorter  and  finer  varieties  grown  on  higher 
lands.  A  constant  change  takes  place  in  the  varie- 
ties of  prairie  grass — certain  kinds  disappearing 
upon  the  settlement  of  the  country,  while  other 
varieties  take  their  place.  The  wide-leaved  blue-stem 
or  bluejoint — a  very  valuable  variety — occupies 
most  of  Eastern  Kansas,  and  is  rapidly  extending 
Westward.  The  nutritious  pea  vine  and  wild  rye 
grow  abundantly  among  the  grasses  in  many  places, 
and  make  a  hay  which  is  equal,  if  not  superior,  to 
the  best  of  tame  hay. 

Upland  prairie  grass,  when  properly  cut,  cured 
and  stacked,  makes  a  hay  but  little  inferior  to  tim- 
othy. There  are  good  farmers  who  feed  both  kinds 
and  have  little  preference  for  either,  but  their  prairie 
hay  as  well  as  tame  grass  hay  is  carefully  prepared 
and  stacked. 


PRAIRIE   GRASS.  53 

Wild  grass  like  tame  grass  ought  always  to  be  cut 
for  hay  as  soon  as  it  is  "  in  bloom,"  that  is,  when  the 
pollen  can  be  rattled  from  the  head  like-  a  fine  dust. 
By  allowing  grass  to  stand  any  considerable  length 
of  time  after  this  period,  the  sugar,  starch  and  other 
elements  which  give  it  value  for  food,  are  converted 
into  woody  fibre,  as  any  one  can  see  who  notices 
how  hard  and  stiff  the  grass  gradually  becomes. 
Many  persons  neglect  hay  cutting  until  the  grass  is 
not  only  hard  and  unpalatable  to  stock,  but  permit 
frost  to  come  and  find  them  haying.  It  is  not  sur- 
prising that  such  farmers  think  prairie  hay  of  little 
value.  Hay  should  be  cured  and  stacked  as  soon 
as  possible  after  cutting.  By  sprinkling  a  little  salt 
upon  it,  the  stock  will  eat  it  more  freely,  and  as 
many  think  with  better  thrift ;  and  if  the  hay  is  a 
little  damp  when  stacked,  salt  will  keep  it  from 
spoiling. 

Hay  is  generally  stacked  in  ricks  about  ten  feet 
wide,  twelve  or  fifteen  feet  high,  and  as  long  as  con- 
venient. Stacks  or  ricks  of  hay  (or  grain)  ought  to 
be  kept  the  highest  in  the  middle  from  the  com- 
mencement of  the  rick ;  carry  the  sides  straight  up 
for  two-thirds  the  hight  of  the  stack ;  when  com- 
plete, twist  large  hay  ropes  and  pass  them  across  the 
top  of  the  rick,  fastening  a  heavy  weight  to  the 
ends,' or  tie  two  rails  or  poles  together,  and  throw 
across  the  top.  Hay  is  put  up  in  this  manner  with 
mowing  machines  and  horse  rakes,  for  two  dollars  to 
three  dollars  per  ton,  and  by  selecting  a  good  local- 
ity, and  stacking  on  the  ground  where  cut,  it  can  be 
put  up  for  one  dollar  and  a  half  per  ton.  Our  prairies 
yield  from  one  to  three  tons  per  acre,  varying  with 
the  soil  and  the  season. 

From  early  spring  to  midsummer,  the  prairies  ajre 
gaily  decked  with  flowers  of  various  lorm  and  hue, 
presenting  through  this  season  a  fascinating  pano- 


ROADS.  55 

rama  of  ever  changing  color,  and  affording  boquets 
which  rival  the  delicate  tints  of  costly  exotics. 

THE    MUD. 

"How  many  days  in  the  year,"  asks  one,  "is  the 
mud  deep  and  sticky  in  Kansas  ?".  I  answer  that  on 
the  average,  during  three  hundred  days  of  the  year, 
you  can  put  your  span  of  horses  to  your  buggy  and 
drive  at  a  smart  trot  over  our  common  natural  prai- 
rie roads.  At  times  the  mud  is  deep  and  sticky,  but 
this  is  a  feature  inseparable  from  a  good  soil,  and 
owing  to  the  excellent  natural  drainage  of  Kansas, 
the  mud  dries  very  soon  after  the  frost  goes  out  of 
the  ground,  or  after  a  rain. 

Excepting  other  portions  of  this  peculiar  trans- 
Missouri  region,  there  is  no  other  good  agricultural 
country  so  favored  in  this  regard.  The  mud  is  not 
as  troublesome  here  as  in  Ohio,  Indiana  and  Illinois. 

No  people  from  any  locality,  which  is  a  good  farm- 
ing region,  need  fear  the  mud  of  Kansas,  and  those 
who  wish  to  live  in  towns  will  find  sidewalks  ready 
made,  or  if  not  made,  the  price  of  lots  will  be  so 
low  that  they  can  afford  to  endure  the  discomfort 
of  thick  boots  occasionally,  to  be  benefited  by  the 
inevitable  rise  in  such  property  as  they  purchase. 

THE   ROADS. 

The  entire  State  of  Kansas  has  the  best  natural 
roadways  of  any  State  in  the  Union,  excepting  Ne- 
braska, which  in  this  regard  is  like  Kansas.  (Indeed, 
if  Nebraska  had  our  timber  and  stone  and  coal  and 
climate  and  soil,  she  would  be  as  good  a  State  as 
Kansas  is.)  With  either  a  carriage  or  a  loaded  team, 
you  can  drive  over  the  entire  State -regardless  of 
roads,  by  selecting  good  natural  crossings  at  the 


56  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

streams.  There  are  no  swamps  as  in  Michigan,  Ohio, 
or  Indiana;  no  sloughs  as  in  Illinois  or  Iowa;  no 
bogs  or  half-filled  ponds  as  in  Minnesota. 

Ko  labor  whatever  is  expended  on  the  prairie 
roads.  The  first  settlers  ride  over  the  country,  select- 
ing such  routes  as  suit  their  convenience,  and  mak- 
ing a  trail  which  soon  becomes  a  well  beaten  track. 
The  double  track  made  by  teams  is  soon  worn  below 
the  level,  leaving  a  ridge  in  the  middle  which  is 
inconvenient  for  a  single  horse  in  a  buggy.  This  is 
eventually  worn  down,  and  a  wide  smooth  road-bed 
is  formed  whereon  in  dry  weather  the  horses'  feet 
clatter,  as  if  upon  the  macadamized  roadways  of 
Central  Park,  in  New  York.  Very  few  drive  less 
than  two  horses  in  this  country,  because  feed  is  so 
cheap  that  the  keeping  of  one  or  two  horses,  more  or 
less,  is  a  small  matter. 

Men  who  have  floundered  through  the  intermina- 
ble sloughs  of  other  Western  States,  can  appreciate 
the  satisfaction  one  feels  at  driving  into  a  ravine  or 
bed  of  a  run,  and  passing  over  upon  solid  rock  or  a 
gravel  bed.  The  only  difficulty  in  crossing  streams 
here  is  at  the  steep  banks  of  the  larger  streams,  or 
from  high  water.  Short  stretches  of  bad  roads  are 
occasionally  to  be  found  on  river  bottoms.  As  before 
remarked,  the  roads  upon  the  rolling  prairies,  or  the 
second  bottoms,  need  little  repairing,  making  it  a 
small  matter  to  secure  splendid  public  highways  at 
all  seasons  of  the  year.  For  bridging  the  streams, 
rock  and  cimber  are  usually  at  hand  upon  the  river 
.bank. 

Those  who  manage  the  public  highways  often  make 
the  same  mistake  here  that  is  made  elsewhere,  by 
attempting  to  round  or  "  pike  "  up  with  dirt,  or  fill 
in  with  stone  at  bad  places,  without  first  cutting 
ditches  to  carry  off  the  water.  Who  ever  saw  a 
railroad  that  was  not  thoroughly  drained  by  open 
ditches  upon  each  side  ?  Professional  road  makers 


WIND   AND   WINDMILLS.  57 

understand  that  the  basis  of  all  good  roads  is  drain- 
age. All  must  have  noticed  that  our  roads  even  in 
the  lowest  places,  are  firm  and  smooth  when  the 
ground  is  dry.  This  ought  to  teach  that  such  drain- 
age as  shall  make  it  impossible  for  water  to  stand  a 
single  hour  upon  the  road,  is  the  first  thing  to  be 
secured  ;  without  this,  all  other  labor  is  vain,  and  in 
nine  cases  out  of  ten,  this  is  all  that  is  needed  in  our 
deep  soil.  Whatever  is  thereafter  done,  will  be  per- 
manent and  enduring.  At  a  small  cost,  therefore, 
there  will  everywhere  be  solid  roads  in  Kansas. 

Limestone  rock  broken  in  pieces,  none  of  which 
contain  more  than  eight  cubic  inches,  two  inches 
each  way,  is  placed  upon  our  city  streets  at  prices 
ranging  from  seven  to  ten  cents  per  cubic  foot. 
The  layer  is  made  from  six  inches  to  a  foot  thick, 
and  this  is  called  "  macadamizing  the  streets."  If 
the  road  bed  is  well  drained  and  rounded  a  very 
little,  this  is  probably  the  most  economical  and  en- 
during pavement  we  can  use.  The  city  of  Law- 
rence, however,  is  testing  wooden  pavement  by 
putting  it  down  on  her  principal  street. 

WIND    AND    WINDMILLS. 

The  most  disagreeable  feature  of  prairie  life — and 
what  life  has  not  some  disagreeable  features — is  the 
wind.  I  call  this  a  feature  of  prairie  life,  because 
there  is  more  wind  on  prairies  than  there  is  in  the 
timber.  So  far  as  my  observation  extends,  there  is 
no  more  wind  in  Kansas  than  in  Illinois,  Iowa  or 
Minnesota,  and  it  is  reasonable  to  believe  that  there 
is  less,  because  the  country  is  not  in  general  so  flat 
as  in  the  greater  portion  of  those  States.  There  is 
compensation  to  be  found,  if  we  seek  it,  in  all  .the 
ills  of  life,  and  the  general  reputation  of  the  prairie 
regions  for  healthful  ness,  is,  without  doubt,  to  be 
largely  ascribed  to  the  motion  of  the  atmosphere. 


58 

It  is  rarely  entirely  calm  throughout  any  day  in 
the  year,  a  gentle  breeze  prevailing  from  the  south 
during  the  warmest  days  or  nights  of  summer. 
A  close  "  muggy"  atmosphere  is  unknown  here. — A 
night  when  you  strip  off  and  sit  down  to  gasp  and 
pant  for  a  breath  of  air;  such  a  night  is  never  expe- 
rienced in  Kansas.  There  are  days  when  the  wind 
blows  and  the  dust  flies  in  a  very  disagreeable  man- 
ner, but  I  have  seen  as  unpleasant  days  in  this 
regard  in  New  York  or  Boston,  although  there  are 
more  of  them  here.  But  people  readily  accustom 
themselves  to  almost  any  condition  of  the  weather, 
when  they  are  healthy  and  prosperous.  Western 
people  "reckon  the  wind  is  a  good  thing,"  and  some 
regard  it  as  a  blessing. 

Of  wind-mills  there  is  not  much  to  be  said,  be- 
cause few  farmers  are  obliged  to  pump  water  for 
stock,  and  the  exhaustless  and  universally  diffused 
supply  of  coal,  will  make  steam  a  cheap  motive 
power.  Add  to  the  latter  consideration  the  fact 
that  water  power  is  abundant  over  a  considerable 
area  of  the  State,  and  it  will  be  seen  that"  there  is 
not  a  great  demand  for  wind-mills.  There  is  at 
Lawrence  a  wind  grist  mill  of  the  old  fashioned 
kind,  such  as  were  built  a  hundred  years  ago.  It 
has  been  in  constant  use  five  years,  and  is  a  paying 
investment. 

Professor  F.  H.  Snow,  of  the  State  University, 
furnishes  me  with  the  following  transcript  from  his 
records  concerning  the  wind  for  the  year  1870  : 

"From  the  1095  observations,  it  appears  that  the 
wind  was  from  the  south,  325  times ;  north,  185 
times ;  northwest,  182  times ;  east,  106  times ;  west, 
77  times;  southwest,  71  times;  northeast,  56  times; 
southeast,  56  times ;  calm,  37  times." 

The  average* duration  of  the  winds  from  the  differ- 
ent quarters,  as  deduced  by  Assistant-Surgeon,  Gr.  "W". 
Sternberg,  TJ.  S.  A.}  from  the  recorded  observations 


GEOLOGY.  59 

for  nine  years,  at  Fort  Biley,  Kansas,  is  in  the  follow- 
ing broportion  : 

N.      NE.      E.      SE.      S.      SW.      W.     NW. 

19.       11.        7.         9,       23.       10.        12.         7. 

C'EOLOGY. 

No  thorough  Geological  survey  of  the  State  of 
Kansas  has  yet  been  undertaken,  bat  preliminary 
examinations  and  reports  were  made  prior  to  1866, 
by  Professors  G.  C.  Swallow  and  B.  F.  Mudge,  State 
Geologists,  assisted  by  Major  F.  Hawn.  Prof.  C.  D. 
Wilber,  late  Superintendent  Illinois  Scientific  Sur- 
vey, also  made  a  more  recent  examination  of  a 
portion  of  the  State,  in  the  interest  of  certain  rail- 
road and  mining  companies,  of  which  survey  an 
instructive  report  was  published.  These  reports  are 
so  nearly  out  of  print,  as  to  be  inaccessable  to  the 
public,  and  I  have  therefore  taken  some  pains  to  col- 
late therefrom  such  matter  as  will  be  most  likely  to 
interest  and  instruct  my  readers. 

In  no  other  prairie  State  is  the  study  of  Geology 
to  interesting  <ts  in  Kansas,  because  in  none  other  is 
there  such  a  variety  of  formations.  In  general 
terms  the  eastern  one-fourth  of  the  State  belongs  to 
that  Geological  syctem  called  Carboniferous,  in 
which  are  found  all  the  bituminous  coal  measures  of 
the  State.  The  greater  part  of  this  area  is  known 
as  Upper  Carboniferous,  the  Lower  Carboniferous 
only  coming  to  the  surface  in  the  southeastern  corner 
of  the  State.  This  formatiou  is  composed  of  many 
different  layers  or  strata  of  limestone,  sandstone, 
coal,  marls,  shales,  fire-clay,  slate,  selenite,  etc.,  vary- 
ing in  thickness,  and  occurring  irregularly.  It  has 
been  asserted  by  all  prior  geologists,  that  there  is  a 
slight  dip  to  the  west,  in  the  strata  of  this  State, 
but  this  is  disputed  by  Professor  Wilber.  Professor 
Swallow  divides  the  carboniferous  system  into  the 


60  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS: 

following  series :  Upper  Coal  series,  three  hundred 
and  ninety-one  feet  in  thickness ;  Chocolate  Lime- 
stone series,  seventy-nine  feet ;  Cave  Rock  series, 
seventy -five  feet ;  Stanton  Limestone  series,  seventy- 
four  feet;  Spring  Rock  series,  eighty-eight  feet;  Well 
Rock  series,  two  hundred  and  thirty-eight  feet; 
Marais  des  Cygnes  Coal  series,  three  hundred  and 
three  feet;  Pawnee  Limestone  series,  one  hundred 
and  twelve  feet;  Fort  Scott  Coal  series,  one  hundred 
and  forty-two  feet ;  Fort  Scott  Marble  series,  twenty- 
two  feet ;  Lower  Coal  series,  three  hundred  and  fifty- 
three  feet ;  to  which  is  to  be  added  the  Lower  Car- 
boniferous, one  hundred  and  twenty  feet,  making  a 
round  total  of  two  thousand  feet. 

We  have  spoken  of  the  gradual  increase  in  alti- 
tude, as  one  goes  westward  in  Kansas,  and  a  study 
of  the  figures  at  the  railroad  stations  on  the  accom- 
panying map,  furnishes  an  instructive  lesson  as  to 
the  undulations  of  the  country.  But  from  this  it 
will  be  seen  that  the  greatest  elevations  within  one 
hundred  and  twenty  miles  of  the  eastern  State  line, 
which  is  about  as  far  west  as  the  carboniferous  sys- 
tem extends,  is  only  about  four  hundred  feet  above 
the  lowest;  as,  for  instance,  Parker,  in  Morris  county, 
above  Wyandotte  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas  River. 
It  is  evident  therefore  that  many  of  the  series  enu- 
merated above,  can  only  be  local  in  extent.  If  each 
one  mentioned,  projected  westward,  under  those 
which  lie  higher,  then  it  would,  in  all  cases,  be  safe 
to  sink  shafts  for  coal,  for  by  going  deep  enough,  it 
could  certainly  be  found.  The  coal  series  are  as  likely 
to  be  wanting,  as  any  ether  of  the  strata,  and  no 
experiments  should  be  made  in  sinking  shafts,  unless 
the  most  careful  borings  have  shown  the  presence  of 
coal.  Fortunately  the  outcroppings  of  coal  are  so 
abundant,  that  such  experiments  are  hardly  neces- 
sary, as  will  be  shown  farther  along. 

In  the   carboniferous   system,  Professor  Swallow 


GEOLOGY. 


61 


counted  forty-four  distinct  strata  of  limestone,  vary- 
ing from  one  foot  to  thirty  feet  in  thickness,  and 
making,  in  the  aggregate,  about  three  hundred  and 
sixty  feet  of  limestone.  He  also  counted  twenty- 
four  strata  of  sandstone,  measuring  in  the  aggregate, 
two  hundred  feet.  The  sandstone  is  chiefly  found 
in  the  lower  coal  measures,  and  in  heavy  beds,  from 
five  to  fifty  feet  thick.  The  coal  beds  counted  by 
Professor  Swallow,  number  twenty-two,  many  of 
which  are  too  thin  to  be  of  any  value,  but  he  says 
"ten  of  them  range  in  thickness  from  one  to  seven 
feet."  I  think,  however,  that  no  coal  beds  have  been 
worked  in  Kansas,  which  exceed  four  feet  in  thickness 


CONGREGATIONAL    CHURCH,  LAWRENCE. 

The  next  higher  system,  which  exhibits  itself  west 
of  the  foregoing,  is  called  by  Prof.  Swallow  Upper 
and  Lower  Permian.  He  gives  their  respective  thick- 
ness as  one  hundred  and  forty-one  and  five  hundred 
and  sixty-three  feet,  making  a  total  depth  of  seven 
hundred  and  four  feet.  In  this  system  he  counted 
thirty-five  different  strata  of  limestone,  making  a 
total  thickness  of  about  two  Jbundred  feet  of  this 
rock.  The  limestones  of  this  system  are  chiefly 
known  as  magnesian  limestone.  This  system 
also  contains  beds  of  gypsum.  The  boundaries 
of  the  Permian  system  are  not  defined  by  the  geolo- 


62  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

ologists,  but  upon  the  Kansas  River  it  commences 
in  the  neighborhood  of  Manhattan  and  extends 
across  the  State,  from  north  to  south,  in  an  irregular 
belt  perhaps  fifty  miles  wide  from  east  to  west. 

Next  higher,  and  to  the  westward,  Prof.  Swallow 
places  the  Triassic  system.  The  total  thickness  of 
the  strata  in  this  formation  is  given  as  three  hundred 
and  thirty-eight  feet,  and  it  is  composed  of  limestone, 
sandstone,  thin  coal  veins,  gypsum,  selenite,  and 
magnesian  marls  and  shales. 

To  the  westward  of  the  foregoing  is  the  cretaceous 
formation,  extending  to  the  foot  hills  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  which  has  been  more  extensively  exam- 
ined  by  Prof.  B.  F.  Mudge,  of  the  State  Agricultural 
College,  Manhattan,  than  by  any  other  geologist.  By 
the  kindness  of  Prof.  Mudge  I  am  permitted  to  pre- 
sent the  following  memoranda,  transmitted  to  me  by 
by  him,  January  7,  1871.  It  is  a  valuable  contribu- 
tion to  science,  because  it  contains  the  most  recent 
geological  items  published  in  relation  to  Western 
Kansas. 

"  The  first  geological  formation  west  of  the  Car- 
boniferous, is  the  Permean,  which  crosses  the  State 
through  Davis  and  Riley  counties,  in  a  northeasterly 
and  southwesterly  direction.  The  fossils  correspond 
in  a  great  degree,  with  those  of  the  Permean  of 
Europe,  but  the  Carboniferous  fossils  unite  with  the 
Permean  in  many  of  the  contiguous  strata,  so  that 
no  distinct  line  of  demarcation  between  the  two  can 
be  seen.  West  of  this  is  a  red -sandstone  tract,  which 
corresponds  to  the  Triassic,  (or  new  red  sandstone 
of  old  authors),  but  the  fossils  are  so  few  that  the 
boundaries,  like  the  preceding,  cannot  be  clearly  de- 
fined. The  Cretaceous  formation  is  still  farther  west, 
crossing  the  State  in  a  northeasterly  and  southwest- 
erly direction,  near  the  mouths  of  the  Saline  and 
Solomon  Rivers,  and  thence  covering  the  whole 
westerly  portion  of  the  State.  This  is  one  of  the 


GEOLOGY.  63 

richest  deposits  of  the  United  States,  in  its  fossils, 
and  possesses  great  geological  interest.  It  not  only 
abounds  in  well  preserved  fossils,  similar  to  those  of 
other  parts  of  the  United  States,  as  well  as  of  Europe, 
but  contains  many  species  new  to  science 

"In  illustration  of  this,  the  fact  may  be  stated  that 
the  writer,  at  one  locality,  twenty  miles  west  of 
Salina,  obtained  fifteen  species  of  marine  shells,  new 
to  science,  and  in  a  brief  excursion  near  Fort  Wal- 
lace, and  on  the  Solomon,  he  procured  three  new 
species  of  reptiles  and  five  of  fishes,  many  of  large 
size. 

"The  predominant  fossils  of  the  eastern  portion  of 
this  formation,  are  dicotyledonous  leaves,  of  which 
about  fifty  species  have  been  found,  a  dozen  of  which 
are  new  to  science.  Among  these  is  the  cinnamon, 
now  growing  only  in  torrid  climes.  More  westerly 
are  quantities  of  the  remains  of  sharks  and  other 
fish,  equaling  in  size  the  largest  now  known,  also 
saurians  and  other  amphibians  of  large  size  and 
peculiar  forms. 

"  The  soil  of  all  these  formations  is  rich.  Even 
the  sandstone  region  has  so  much  of  lime  and  organic 
substance  in  the  loam,  that  the  farms  are  equal  to 
the  best  in.  the  State.  The  Saline,  Solomon  and  Ke- 
publican  valleys  are  well  timbered  (for  a  prairie  coun- 
try), the  soil  rich,  deep  and  well  drained. 

"Fifteen  miles  west  of  Fort  Harker,  at  Wilson 
Creek,  is  a  deposit  of  lignite  coal  forty-two  inches 
in  thickness,  underlying  an  extensive  portion  of  the 
country.  It  is  also  found  in  a  corresponding  situa- 
tion in  the  valleys  of  the  Solomon,  Saline  and  Hepub- 
lican  Eivers,  but  though  affording  a  present  supply  of 
fuel,  it  is  inferior  to  the  bituminous  coal  found  on  the 
line  of  the  railroads  in  the  southeastern  part  of  the 
State.  The  lignite  from  Wilson  Creek  was  at  one 
time  on  many  of  the  locomotives  of  the  Kansas  Pa- 
cific Railway. 


64 

"  The  most  valuable  mineral  in  this  part  of  the 
State  is  salt,  which  is  found  in  numerous  springs  and 
extensive  salt  marshes  in  sufficient,  quantities  to  sup- 
ply half  the  population  of  the  United  States. 

"  Stone  for  building  material  is  abundant  in  all  the 
geological  formations.  In  the  Cretaceous,  the  lime 
beds  are  frequently  from  twenty  to  sixty  feet  in 
thickness,  soft,  easily  wrought  and  making  excellent 
quick,  lime.  The  buildings  at  Fort  Wallace  and  some 
at  Fort  Hayes  are  made  from  it.  Those  at  Fort 
Harker  are  constructed  of  a  brown  sandstone.  Some 
of  the  limestone  strata  run  into  a  white  chalk,  which 
is  fully  equal  to  that  imported  from  England.  Gyp- 
sum is  more  or  less  abundant3> sometimes  in  strata 
from  ten  to  fifteen  feet  in  thickness,  and  in  future 
will  be  found  by  our  farmers  to  be  one  of  the  most 
valuable  natural  deposits  of  our  State." 

Professor  Mudge  gives  above  sufficient  evidences 
of  what  all  geologists  assert  to  be  true:  that  this 
entire  region  was  submerged  in  water  during  the 
past  ages.  At  this  period  a  portion  of  the  rocky 
formations,  enumerated  above,  were  ground  to  pow- 
der, and  intermixed  in  such  a  manner  as  to  give  to 
our  soil  its  various  and  valuable  chemical  properties, 
which  have  been  so  fully  described  in  preceding  pages. 

STONE    QUARRIES. 

Frequent  allusion  has  already  been  made  to  the 
important  part  which  rock  deposits  play  in  the  frame 
work  of  Kansas  scenery,  and  in  the  economy  of 
Kansas  life.  The  importance  of  the  subject  in  its 
pecuniary  aspects  merits  still  further  mention. 

The  rock  of  Kansas  chiefly  consists,  as  is  shown 
in  the  foregoing,  of  limestone,  sandstone  and  gyp- 
sum. At  least  90  per  cent,  is  limestone  of  various 
texture  and  color.  There  is  no  better  limestone  in 


STONE   QUARRIES. 


65 


the  United  States  than  is  to  be  found  in  Kansas. 
Columns  dressed  to  eight  inch  face,  fourteen  inches 
deep,  and  fourteen  feet  high,  are  used  in  two  story 
brick  fronts  at  Topeka. 

Professor  J.  A.  Bent,  of  Wheaton  College,  Illinois, 
expresses  the  following  opinion  which  is  founded 
upon  extensive  travel  and  observation  :  "  No  state  in 


CORNER    MAIN    AND    SECOND    STREETS,    OTTAWA. 

the  Union  is  so  generally  and  so  well  supplied  with 
rock  as  Kansas,  and  at  the  same  time  so  free  from 
rock  which  comes  in  the  way  of  cultivating  the  soil." 
The  reason  why  these  two  advantages  are  here 
combined  in  so  extraordinary  a  degree,  is  found  in 
the  fact  that  the  strata  of  rock  are  nearly  all  hori- 
zontal, while  the  entire  State  slopes  very  considerable 
to  the  east.  The  strata  are  thereby  caused  to  ap- 
pear one  above  another,  like  broken  and  irregular 
3* 


66  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

terraces,  or  steps  all  the  way  westward.  Then  con- 
sider that  excepting  some  of  the  river  bottoms, 
there  are  no  flat  surfaces  in  the  State,  but  that  the 
entire  face  of  the  country  is  swept  by  valleys,  and 
rolls,  and  gentle  bluffs,  and  it  is  easy  to  see  why 
the  rock  is  found  on  almost  every  farm,  so  situated 
at  its  projecting  edges  as  to  be  convenient,  but  not 
troublesome.  Above  the  rock  are  several  feet  of 
earth  and  soil,  and  below  it,  upon  the  sloping 
sides  of  the  bluff  or  roll,  is  to  be  found  a  soil  which 
is  especially  deep,  quick  and  fertile. 

Horace  Greeley  writes  from  Kansas  to  the  New 
York  Tribune,  October  9,  1870,  as  follows :  "  When- 
ever a  declevity,  however  moderate,  is  seen,  there 
choice  limestone  for  fencing,  or  building,  or  burning, 
may  be  rapidly  taken  out  with  the  pick  or  bar.  Most 
of  it  is  in  flat,  square,  (or  oblong)  blocks  of  ten  to 
sixty  pounds,  whereof  the  poorest  may  be  laid  up 
with  facility  into  excellent  wall,  leaving  the  better 
available  for  building.  This  limestone  has  yielded, 
and  is  still  yielding,  near  the  surface,  to  decay, 
enriching  the  soil,  while  increasing  the  facility  with 
which  the  uncorroded  portions  are  broken  into  con- 
venient blocks  for  use." 

With  this  rock,  wells,  cisterns  and  cellars  are 
walled,  and  foundations  laid  for  wooden  or  brick 
buildings,  while  cheap  and  substantial  buildings  are 
erected  of  stone.  Many  hundred  miles  of  stone 
wall  have  been  built  at  a  cost  of  $1.50  to  $2.50  per 
rod.  Frequently  the  rock  is  quarried  on  the  fence 
line,  and  the  wall  laid  by  the  side  of  the  ditch  thus 
made.  Judge  James  Hanway,  of  Lane,  writes  me  : 
"I  have  a  stone  wall  which  three  hands  quarried, 
hauled  and  put  up  at  the  rate  of  four  rods  per  day, 
using  two  yoke  of  oxen,  and  alow  wagon,  and  haul- 
ing a  few  rods.  A  skillful  man  can  lay  up  five  rods  in 
a  day,  while  others  would  be  industrious  at  two  rods." 


STONE   QUARRIES.  67 

The  following  account  lately  appeared  in  the 
Topeka  Daily  Commonwealth,  of  a  new  quarry  of  flag- 
stone opened  at  Osage  City,  on  the  Atehison,  Topeka 
&  Santa  Fe  Bailroad,  thirty-five  miles  from  Topeka  : 
"  The  visitor  sees,  laid  one  over  another  in  beautiful 
regularity,  layer  after  layer  of  blue  limestone,  from 
one  to  four  inches  thick,  in  slabs  from  three  to  eight 
feet  wide  and  from  ten 'to  thirty  feet  in  length.  These 
flag-stones  are  as  smooth  and  even  as  a  board,  and 
are  so  situated  that  they  may  be  taken  up,  one  after 
another,  with  wonderful  rapidity.  The  toughness  of 
this  stone  may  be  estimated  when  I  say  that  I  saw 
a  slab  twenty-four  feet  in  length,  three  feet  wide  and 
only  three  inches  and  a  quarter  in  thickness,  and 
weighing  2,800  pounds,  suspended  by  a  chain  in  the 
middle  of  it  without  breaking !  It  is  very  hard  and 
durable,  and  can  be  put  down  in  sidewalks  for  much 
less  than  our  cut  stone  walks,  and  will  be  equal  if 
not  superior  to  the  very  best  of  them.  The  thinner 
grade  of  flagging  will  make  good  walks  for  front 
yards,  gardens,  etc.,  and  can  be  put  down  almost  as 
cheap  as  board  walks.  The  quarry  is  known  to  ex- 
tend a  mile  along  the  edge  of  a  ravine.  The  side 
track  from  the  railroad  to  the  ledge  will  soon  be 
completed." 

This  rock  has  the  appearance  of  slate,  but  an 
acid  test  indicates  the  presence  of  lime.  I  have 
examined  the  stone  and  seen  it  placed  in  sidewalks, 
and  it  promises  to  be  very  valuable.  I  measured 
one  slab  which  was  brought  to  Topeka.  Its  dimen- 
sions were  7 £  feet  wide,  28  feet  long  and  three  inches 
thick.  Stone  of  the  same  quality  was  found  near 
Yineland,  in  Douglas  county,  several  years  ago,  and 
used  to  pave  sidewalks  in  Lawrence.  One  layer  less 
than  two  inches  thick,  was  used  upon  a  sidewalk 
which  has  stood  constant  usage  for  about  six  years 
with  little  injury.  This  ledge  did  not  prove  to  be 
extensive. 


68  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

Occasionally  a  traveler,  following  the  principal 
roads  which  uniformly  seek  the  high  divides  to  avoid 
streams,  will  pass  over  a  rocky  piece  of  ground 
which  looks  uninviting.  But  no  man  need  purchase 
such  land,  (although  it  is  valuable  for  pasturage,) 
when  there  is  a  plenty  to  be  had  for  nothing,  or  at  a 
nominal  cost,  as  beautiful  and  as  fertile  as  any  the 
sun  shines  upon,  and  which  has  upon  it  rock  suffi- 
cient for  use. 

Magnesian  limestone  and  gypsum,  which  together 
cover  an  area  including  most  of  western  Kansas, 
can  be  cut  with  hatchet  or  saw  like  wood,  into 
blocks  of  any  desired  size,  which  soon  harden  upon 
exposure  to  the  air.  The  former  stone  has  been 
extensively  shipped  from  Junction  City  to  the  Mis- 
souri River,  where  are  large  factories,  at  which  it  is 
sawed  and  turned  into  various  shapes  for  architect- 
ural purposes.  It  is  reckoned  by  scientific  men  as 
among  the  most  durable  kinds  of  rock  in  the  world. 
The  State  House  at  Topeka,  is  built  of  it.  The 
abutments  to  the  Leavenworth  bridge  are  also  mag- 
nesian  limestone. 

Until  recently  it  has  been  supposed  that  magne- 
sian  limestone  was  not  to  be  found  far  east  of  Man- 
hattan, but  I  find  it  exists  in  all  parts  of  the  State  in 
isolated  quarries,  and  geologists  say  there  are  more 
than  twenty  varieties.  There  is  a  fine  ledge  near 
Quenemo,  in  Osage  county,  others  near  Pomona, 
Franklin  county,  others  in  Johnson  and  the  eastern 
portion  of  Miami  counties.  In  Labette  county  it  is 
abundant,  and  probably  will  be  found  in  nearly  every 
Bounty  in  the  State.  In  township  seven,  range  six.- 
teen,  Jackson  county,  this  is  the  prevailing  stone, 
while  in  the  remainder  of  the  county  it  is  not  known 
to  exist. 

The  sandstone  as  well  as  limestone,  is  firm  in  tex- 
ture and  vis  largely  used  for  building  purposes.  It 
should  be  understood  that  stone  needs  seasoning  as 


MARBLE.  69 

well  as  lumber,  before  it  is  used  for  good  work. 
When  quarried  it  contains  a  considerable  quantity 
of  water,  and  upon  drying  may  expose  seams  not  at 
first  observable.  If  cut  and  used  for  fronts  while 
still  damp,  and  cold  weather  comes  on  immediately, 
it  is  liable  to  be  cracked  by  the  expansion  of  the 
water  it  contains.  Fine  buildings  have  thus  been 
disfigured  in  Kansas  through  the  ignorance,  or  more 
likely  the  neglect,  of  'builders  who  did  not  like  to 
delay  their  work'.  Stone  is  frequently  thus  con- 
demned, when  in  reality  it  only  needed  seasoning. 

MARBLE. 

This  variety  of  limestone  is  found  in  many  places 
in  Kansas,  ordinarily  of  various  shades  of -buff,  brown 
and  black.  No  white  marble  has  been  discovered. 

Marbles  have  been  found  at  Fort  Scott,  near  Latf- 
rence,  also  in  Doniphan  county,  at  Leavenworth  and 
other  localities,  which  take  a  fine  polish.  The  Fort 
Scott  marble  is  black,  "full  of  yellowish  veins."  The 
Leavenworth  marble  was  found  in  sinking  the  coal 
shaft  hereafter  described.  It  is  four  hundred  feet 
below  the  surface;  its  thickness  is  sixteen  feet  three 
inches,  and  it  is  described  as  ';  solid,  fine  in  grain,  of 
a  drab  color,  very  handsomely  mottled,  and  the  hard- 
est merchantable  marble  in  the  United  States." 

Experts  who  have  examined  Kansas  marbles  say 
that  the  quality  is  such  that  a  large  demand  may  be 
supplied  for  mantle  pieces, -tops  to  bureaus,  wasa- 
stands,  etc.,  but  the  question  of  export  depends  alto- 
gether upon  the  fashion  as  to  colors.  In  other  words, 
the  stone  is  suitable,  if  the  color  is  acceptable. 

FREESTONE    OR   SANDSTONE. 

Enough  has  already  been  said  concerning  the  ex- 
cellent quarries  of  this  rock  to  be  found  in  almost 


70  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

every  county,  excepting  as  to  its  adaptation  to  the 
making  of  grindstones. 
Many  persons  have  selected  fragments  which  they 


MORRIS   PUBLIC    SCHOOL,  LEAVENWORTH. 

used  for  sharpening  edge  tools,  but  as  yet,  however, 
I  do  not  know  that  quarries  have  been  opened  which 
furnish  stone  of  precisely  the  right  grain  for  this 
purpose^,  But  no  two  quarries  are  alike  in  their 


GYPSUM.  71 

characteristics,  and  there  is  reason  for  believing  that 
among  the  thousands  of  various  texture  and  degrees 
of  hardness,  a  good  variety  will  yet  be  found  for 
grindstones.  All  of  these  articles  now  used  in  the 
West  are  brought  from  Ohio. 

GYPSUM. 

This  exceedingly  valuable  rock  is  not  found,  to 
any  considerable  extent  in  the  carboniferous  forma- 
tion which  we  have  described,  but  it  prevails  to  a 
greater  or  less  degree  over  the  western  three-fourths 
of  the  State — that  is,  over  an  area  of  about  sixty 
thousand  square  miles.  The  most  easterly  beds 
reported  by  the  geological  survey,  are  in  Marshall, 
and  perhaps  Nemaha  county,  in  Northern  Kansas, 
whence  it  crosses  the  State  to  the  southern  line.  It 
is  found  in  beds  of  all  thicknesses  up  to  fifty  feet, 
and  in  the  western  half  of  the  State  it  occurs  in 
crystalized  semi-transparent  sheets,  resembling  mica 
(or  isinglass)  in  texture,  and  alum  in  color. 

It  will  be  seen  by  a  glance  at  the  map,  that  five  of 
the  .Railroads  now  running  in  Kansas,  cross  the 
gypsum  deposits,  thus  making  it  easily  available  to 
all  portions  of  the  State. 

The  uses  to  which  this  article  is  applied  are  vari- 
ous and  important.  It  is  used  as  a  cement,  and  in 
taking  casts  by  artists,  dentists,  and  othors ;  in 
making  busts  and  ornamental  designs  for  the  orna- 
ment of  inner  walls,  as  well  as  in  giving  to  the  walls 
themselves  an  elegant  and  durable  "hard  finish." 
But  it  is  most  extensively  used  as  a  fertilizer,  whence 
it  is  called  "  land  plaster."  Vast  quantities  of  this 
article  are  imported  to  the  Eastern  States  from  Nova 
Scotia.  It  is  also  sold  from  beds  in  Virginia,  New 
York  and  Michigan,  but  I  think  is  not  found  west  of 
the  latter  State.  Desiring  to  publish  accurate  infor- 
mation as  to  the  proper  method  of  preparing  gyp- 


72  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

sum  for  various  uses,  I  applied  for  this  purpose  to 
the  State  University  at  Lawrence,  and  received  the 
following  letter : 

"  STATE  UNIVERSITY  OF  KANSAS, 
LAWRENCE,  January  18,  1871. 

Mr.  C.  C.  Hutchinson  : 

DEAR  SIR  :  Your  letter  of  inquiry  in  regard  to 
the  effect  of  heat  on  the  fertilizing  properties  of 
gypsum  is  received. 

"  Heating  gypsum  would  injure  it  as  a  fertilizer. 
If  heated  below  300  degrees  Fahrenheit,  till  the 
water  of  crystalization  is  driven  off,  it  would  harden 
on  coming  in  contact  with  the  moist  soil;  if  subjected 
to  a  high  heat  it  would  be  decomposed. 

"  As  a  fertilizer  gypsum  is  most  valuable  in  a  finely 
ground  state.  I  hope  in  your  forthcoming  work, 
you  will  strongly  press  its  claims  upon  Kansas 
farmers,  for  it  would  be  especially  valuable  on  our 
rich  prairie  soil. 

"  To  make  plaster  of  paris,  ground  gypsum  should 
be  subjected  to  a  heat  of  about  250  degrees  Fahren- 
heit, till  watery  vapor  ceases  to  rise,  but  the  heat 
should  not  exceed  300  degrees  Fahrenheit,  for  if 
heated  above  that  point  it  will  not  harden  on  adding 
water. 

Respectfully  yours, 

Wm.  H.  SAUKDERS,  M.  D., 

Professor  of  Chemistry." 

It  is  usually  applied  to  land  at  the  rate  of  one  to 
five  bushels  per  acre.  The  practice  most  in  favor  is 
to  sow  it  broad-cast  over  young  grain  or  grass,  es- 
pecially clover,  or  to  apply  it  by  the  small  handful 
upon  and  around  vegetables  and  Indian  corn,  when 
young.  I  have  seen  good  planters  in  Virginia  put  a 
"  pinch"  in  each  dwarfed  or  stunted  tobacco  plant,  in 


COAL.  73 

order  to  bring  it  forward.  The  best  immediate  effects 
seem  to  follow  its  application  during  damp  weather, 
or  jdst  before  a  shower.  Gypsum  is  largely  used  by 

food  farmers  who  have  rich  lands  and  who  want  to 
eep  them  rich.  Its  use  in  Kansas,  applied  directly 
to  growing  plants,  would  doubtless  be  highly  bene- 
ficial. Its  almost  universal  presence  in  Kansas  soil 
accounts  in  part  for  the  extraordinary  yield  of  our 
land. 

In  reply  to  a  correspondent  who  inquired  as  to  the 
relative  value  of  lime  and  gypsum  as  fertilizers, 
Moore's  Rural  New  Yorker  recently  published  the  fol- 
lowing: "  On  heavy  clay  soils,  the  action  of  lime  is 
to  disintegrate  and  loosen  ;  on  sandy  soils  it  supplies 
a  lack  ;  it  sweetens  some  soils  ;  it  decomposes  organic 
matter  in  all  soils.  Plaster,  applied  as  a  top  dressing 
to  land,  furnishes  plants  with  sulphur,  absorbs  and 
retains  for  the  use  of  plants  the  ammonia  of  the  at- 
ii.'O^here,  and  is  a  useful  application  on  limestone 
soils,  or  on  soils  that  have  been  dressed  with  lime. 
It  exercises  an  entirely  distinct  agency  from  that  of 
lime  in  promoting  vegetable  growth." 

As  an  article  of  commerce  our  gypsum  beds  are  to 
be  of  great  value.  It  is  every  year  coming  into  more 
general  use  by  farmers,  and  we  have  enough  to  supply 
the  entire  Mississippi  Valley.  The  quality  of  much 
that  is  found  in  this  State  is  said  by  experts  to  be 
equal  to  the  best  in  the  world,  it  being  uniform  in 
grain  and  pure  white  in  color. 

COAL. 

The  geological  formation  called  carboniferous, 
(coal-bearing,)  occupies  the  entire  eastern  portion  of 
the  State,  having  a  general  width  from  east  to  west 
of  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles.  Its  west- 
ern limit  crosses  the  Kansas  JRiver  through  Davis 
4 


74  HUTCIUNSOSl'S   KANSAS. 

and  Eiley  counties,  in  a  northeasterly  and  south- 
westerly direction,  and  its  area  is  about  seventeen 
thousand  square  miles.  There  are  outcroppings  of 
bituminous  coal  throughout  the  entire  extent  of  this 
vast  surface,  an  area  more  than  twice  the  size  of 
the  State  of  Massachusetts.  Professor  Swallow,  the 
State  Geologist,  counted  "twenty  two  distinct  and 
separate  beds  of  coal.  Many  of  these  are  thin,  and 
of  but  little  value,  but  ten  of  them  range  in  thick- 
ness from  one  to  seven  feet  of  coal,  suitable  for 
domestic  and  manufacturing  purposes."  The  thick- 
est outcropping  veins  are  displayed  in  the  south- 
eastern portion  of  the  State,  and  it  is  supposed  that 
these  continue  westward  under  the  other  veins 
which  lie  higher,  and  which  appear  at  the  surface 
further  west  and  northwest. 

No  considerable  experiments  have  been  made  in 
boring,  or  by  test  wells  or  shafts,  excepting  at  Leav- 
enworth  City,  where,  at  the  depth  of  seven  hundred 
and  ten  feet,  an  excellent  quality  was  found,  the  bed 
varying  from  twenty-two  to  twenty-eight  inches  in 
thickness,  averaging  twenty-five  inches.  This  mine 
has  an  excellent  steam  engine  and  good  facilities  for 
delivering  coal.  It  is  proposed  to  sink  the  shaft 
to  a  greater  depth,  as  it  is  believed  that  a  vein  three 
feet  in  thickness  can  be  reached  at  a  depth  of  a 
thousand  feet  from  the  surface.  The  miners  receive 
nine  to  nine  and  a  half  cents  per  bushel,  and  the  coal 
has  been  sold  by  the  car  load  for  eighteen  cents  per 
bushel,  but  is  now  reduced  to  fifteen  cents  per  bushel 
for  manufacturing  purposes.  One  of  the  upper  coal 
veins,  much  inferior  in  quality  to  the  shaft  coal  men- 
tioned, was  formerly  worked  a  few  miles  distant 
from  Leavenworth,  and  other  veins  have  been 
worked  in  several  localities  in  northern  Kansas. 

The  coals  of  the  upper  strata,  which  are  most 
worked,  are  in  Osage  and  Franklin  counties.  The 
western  portion  of  the  latter  county,  and  perhaps 


COAL.  75 

the  entire  surface  of  the  former,  with  portions  of 
adjoining  counties,  are  occupied  by  veins  showing 
themselves  in  many  places,  and  everywhere  within 
a  few  feet  of  the  surface.  The  citizens  usually  work 
the  mines  by  drifting  into  the  banks,  but  mining 
companies  also  work  by  putting  down  shafts  or 
wells.  There  is  one  company  in  Franklin  county, 
and  four  or  five  in  Osage  county,  that  deliver  coal 
on  the  railroads.  The  mines  in  these  two  counties 
show  about  twenty-two  to  twenty  five  inches  of 
solid  coal.  It  is  sold  throughout  the  counties  at  the 
mines  for  fifteen  to  twenty  cents  per  bushel  of  eighty 
pounds. 

I  quote  from  a  letter  dated  Topeka,  January  27, 
1871,  received  from  W.  H.  Fisk,  Superintendent  of 
one  of  the  Companies  working  in  Osage  county,  as 
follows  : 

"We  have  two  shafts  at  Osage  City,  some  fifty 
feet  in  depth,  and  a  mine  at  Carbondale  entered  by 
a  slope  or  drift,  the  main  entry  being  some  eight 
hundred  feet  long.  Our  present  force  and  facilities 
will  enable  us  to  take  out  twenty  car  loads  per  day, 
six  thousand  bushels.  We  have  contracts  with  the 
Kansas  Pacific,  and  Atchison  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe 
Railway  Companies,  to  supply  them  with  coal.  Our 
Osage  coal  is  pronounced  by  good  judges  to  be  equal 
to  any  in  the  State.  The  dimensions  of  the  Osage 
shafts  are  5x13  feet,  50  feet  in  depth." 

Mining  is  prosecuted  extensively  by  organized 
companies  in  Bourbon  county,  near  Fort  Scott,  and 
in  Crawford,  Cherokee,  Neosho,  and  Labette  coun- 
ties. Extensive  mines  are  opened  near  Chetopa  in 
the  latter  county ;  one  company  ship  from  twenty- 
five  to  forty  car  loads  per  day  from  Fort  Scott,  em- 
ploying about  two  hundred  and  fifty  men.  The 
veins  that  are  worked  in  this  region  range  from  two 
to  four  feet  in  thickness,  and  are  but  a  few  feet  below 
the  surface.  Coal  is  found  in  workable  veins  in  every 


76  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

county  throughout  the  coal  formation,  but  approved 
methods  of  exploring  and  opening  these  veins  have 
been  employed  in  but  few  instances.  Very  little, 
indeed,  is  known,  as  yet,  of  the  resources  of  the 
State  in  this  regard,  and  discoveries  are  constantly 
being  made.  Six  years  ago,  it  was  supposed  that 
coal  could  be  found  in  but  three  or  four  places  in  the 
entire  extent  of  .Franklin  and  Osage  counties.  Now 
it  is  known  to  be  almost  universally  diffused  in  work- 
able veins.  The  same  result  will  follow  thorough 
explorations  in  other  counties. 

The  coal  of  which  we  have  been  speaking  is  bitu- 
minous coal,  and  of  a  superior  quality.  There  is 
considerable  luster  to  its  broken  edges,  and  it  does 
not  crumble  to  dust  by  handling  and  shipping,  as 
does  much  of  the  coal  in  other  Western  States.  It 
contains  but  little  sulphur.  It  is  used  upon  all  our 
railroads,  both  for  locomotives  and  in  machine  shops. 
It  is  also  extensively  used  for  domestic  purposes,  and 
universally  .by  our  blacksmiths.  It  is  retailed  in 
our  towns  and  cities  for  twenty-five  to  thirty  cents 
per  bushel ;  but  it  should  be  remembered  that  it  was 
not  in  the  market  in  salable  quantities  until  the  con- 
struction of  railroads,  which  cut  some  of  the  better 
veins,  and  this  has  only  been  accomplished  within 
eighteen  months  of  this  writing.  When  properly 
developed — and  there  is  in  its  development  ample 
field  for  capital  and  enterprise — coal  will  be  deliv- 
ered at  less  rates,  but  with  great  profit  to  mining 
companies.  All  the  coals  of  this  State,  it  should  be 
mentioned,  lie  like  the  rocks,  in  a  position  nearly 
horizontal. 

Concerning  its  quality  we  introduce  the  testimony 
of  Professor  C.  D.  Wilber,  late  Superintendent  of 
Illinois  Scientific  Survey  :  "  These  coals  are  excel- 
lent for  all  purposes ;  making  iron  either  in  furnaces 
or  rolling  mills ;  making  steam  whether  for  factories, 
mills  or  locomotives ;  in  gas  works  or  for  domestic 


COAL. 


77 


use.  They  are  singularly  free  from  sulphur,  and 
burn  with  the  clear  white  flame  of  Pittsburgh  coal." 
In  western  Kansas,  beyond  the  carboniferous  for- 
mation, there  is  a  species  of  coal  which  is  spoken  of 
by  Professor  Mudge  in  his  preceding  letter.  Major 
Hawn,  of  Leavenworth  City,  who  was  associated 
with  the  Geological  Survey  of  the  State,  and  who 
has  made  extensive  explorations  of  Western  Kansas, 
in  connection  with  the  lineal  surveys  of  Government, 
writes  me  as  follows,  under  date  of  January  9,  1871 


KANSAS    VALLEY    NATIONAL    BANK,    TOPEKA. ' 

"There  is  a  species  of  coal  in  the  western  portion 
of  Kansas  classified  as  'lignite.'  This  is  a  distinc- 
tion without  an  apparent  difference  to  the  ordinary 
observer,  between  the  best  specimens  of  it  and  the 
common  bituminous  varieties.  It  is  a  lighter  coal, 
containing  more  gas  and  less  carbon.  Generally,  the 
proportion  of  fixed  carbon  is  so  small  that  it  is  not 
suitable  for  smithies,  but  answers  well  for  heating 
purposes.  From  recent  discoveries,  it  seems  to  have 


78  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

a  wide  distribution,  and  will  play  an  important  part 
in  the  settlement  of  that  region." 

Little  is  really  known  about  the  mineral  deposits 
of  Western  Kansas,  as  the  State  Geological  Surveys 
have  not  extended  so  far;  but  there  is  evidence  that 
among  its  abundant  sources  of  wealth,  we  must 
reckon  the  coal  deposits  as  not  the  least  valuable. 
The  lignites  have  been  little  examined,  and  yet  they 
are  to-day  held  in  higher  esteem  than  were  the 
coals  of  Eastern  Kansas  a  dozen  years  ago.  The 
veins  of  lignite  coal  now  worked  in  Colorado,  near 
Denver,  are  from  six  to  ten  feet  in  thickness,  and  the 
coal,  while  not  so  heavy  as  our  bituminous  variety, 
is  suitable  for  all  mechanical  purposes,  and  burns 
with  a  brighter  flame,  making  a  very  cheerful  open 
fire.  Preparations  are  making  to  use  it  extensively 
in  smelting  the  gold  and- silver  ores  of  Colorado, 
which  are  now  shipped  across  the  Atlantic  to  Wales 
for  smelting.  This  coal  is  chiefly  found  in  perpen- 
dicular veins  thrown  up  by  volcanic  action.  Scien- 
tific gentlemen,  who  recently  visited  these  mines, 
have  informed  me  that  they  are  found  in  the  same 
geological  formation  as  that  which  prevails  in  West- 
ern Kansas.  They  also  believe  that  the  same  veins 
continue,  at  an  unknown  depth,  eastward,  and  that 
the  lignites  discovered  in  Western  Kansas,  are  their 
broken  and  irregular  out-croppings.  They  think 
that  further  explorations  will  undoubtedly  reveal  a 
vast  supply  of  this  coal  in  Kansas.  There  is  not 
space  here  to  present  concurrent  testimony  upon 
this  point ;  but  all,  whether  pioneers  or  manufactu- 
rers, may  rest  assured  that  Kansas  is  abundantly 
supplied  with  coal  of  excellent  quality. 

A  vast  amount  "of  coal  lies  under  the  surface,  even 
of  a  small  farm.  Mining  engineers  allow  one  million 
tons  for  every  foot  in  thickness  of  bituminous  coal 
covering  one  square  mile.  This  gives  five  hundred 
thousand  tons  under  a  farm  of  one  hundred  and 


SALT.  79 

sixty  acres,  in  a  vein  only  two  feet  thick.  Estimat- 
ing that  a  ton  of  coal  is  equal  to  one  and  one-half 
cords,  and  some  say  two  cords,  of  good  hard  wood, 
it  appears  that  most  of  the  farms  of  a  quarter  sec- 
tion, (one-half  mile  square)  have  under  their  surface 
coal  equivalent  to  about  one  million  cords  of  wood. 
"  Let  us  suppose  all  Kansas  to  be  covered  by  a  forest, 
affording  one  hundred  cords  of  wood  to  the  acre. 
This  would  be  considered  an  ample  supply  of  fuel. 
Yet  a  six  foot  vein  of  coal  under  sixteen  toicnships,  or 
five  hundred  and  seventy-six  square  miles,  (the  ordi- 
nary si  ae  of  one  county,)  will  afford  more  fuel  than 
the  entire  State  if  covered  with  such  forests.'' — Pro- 
fessor Mudge. 

But  all  geologists  assert  that  there  is  not  only  six 
feet  under  one.  county,  but  two  to  six  feet  under  every 
county  in  all  the  carboniferous  region  of  seventeen 
thousand  square  miles.  This  will  do  very  well  for  a 
country  that  has  been  said  to  be  destitute  of  fuel* 

SALT. 

The  statement  is  made  by  Professor  Mudge  that 
"  the  most  valuable  mineral  in  this  (western)  part  of 
the  State  is  salt,  which  is  found  in  numerous  springs 
and  extensive  salt  marshes,  in  suf/.cient  quantities 
to  supply  half  the  population  of  tl.o  United  States. 

There  seems  to  be  no  reason  why  any  limit  should 
be  placed  to  the  capacity  of  Kan:  us  for  supplying 
salt,  as  the  following- exhibit  will  ^how.  And  first 
we  copy  from  the  u  First  Annual  Report  on  the  Geol- 
ogy of  Kansas,"  by  B.  F.  Mudge,  A.  M.,  1864  : 

"  The  buffalo  licks  or  tramps,  so  common  in  almost 
every  county  of  the  State,  in  most  cases  owe  their 
origin  to  the  presence  of  salt  brine,  even  when  it 
does  not  appear  in  the  shape  of  springs  at  the  sur- 
face. The  valleys  of  the  Yerdigris  and  Fall  Eivers 
have  salt  springs  which  supply  a  part  of  the  loca 


80  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

demand,  though  no  exertions  have  been  made  to 
develop  the  supply,  the  water  from  open  springs  or 
wells  only  being  used,  which  is  much  diluted  by  the 
surface  streams." 

Here  follows  an  enumeration  of  springs  and  wells 
in  Eastern  Kansas  from  which  salt  has  been  made 
in  small  quantities,  but  which  1  think  have  all  been 
abandoned  as  unprofitable.  They  are  but  the  sur- 
face indications  of  the  vast  reeervoir  farther  west. 

We  continue  to  quote  from  the  report.  "On  the 
boundary  of  the  State,  a  very  large  deposit  of  crys- 
talized  salt  'exists  south  of  the  great  bend  of  the 
Arkansas  River,  in  which  it  lies  in  beds  from  six  to 
twenty-eight  inches  in  depth,  in  one  instance,  two 
Government  wagons  were  filled  in  a  few  minutes, 
without  being  moved.  The  salt  is  so  compact  as  to 
require  a  hatchet  to  cat  it.  These  deposits  are  un- 
doubtedly caused  by  the  drying  up  of  salt  ponds  or 
salt  branches  of  the  Cimmarron  .River.  But  this  is 
situated  so  far  from  the  settled  portions  of  the  State, 
or  any  regular  route  of  transportation,  that  at  pres- 
ent it  is  of  no  practical  value.  A  railroad  toward 
that  region  would  make  it  of  vast  commercial  impor- 
tance." The  Professor  thus  dismisses  these  great  salt 
plains,  for  he  had  at  that  time  little  idea  that  rail- 
roads would  so  soon  reach  their  rich  stores.  The 
Atchison,  Topeka  and  Santa  Fe  Railroad  is  speedily 
to  be  completed  to  that  region,  and  other  lines  are 
pushing  in  that  direction.  The  area  of  these  plains 
is  estimated  by  the  best  authorities  at  more  than 
five  hundred  square  miles,  entirely  covered  with  an 
incrustation  of  pure  salt  of  various  degrees  of  thick- 
ness. Yery  few  white  people  have  ever  visited  this 
remarkable  spot.  But  many  bushels  of  excellent 
salt  have  been  brought  from  there,  and  the  wilder 
Indian  tribes  who  formerly  inhabited  Kansas,  annu- 
ally went  thither  to  procure  a  supply  of  salt  in  addi- 
tion to  that  furnished  them  by  the  Government. 


SALT.  81 

These  salt  plains  lie  partly  in  Kansas  and  partly  in 
the  Indian  Territory,  and  are  surrounded  by  a  tine 
grazing  and  agricultural  region. 

Professor  Mudge  proceeds  to  describe  the  salt 
region  of  Western  Kansas,  which  he  says  embraces 
a  tract  of  country  about  thirty-five  miles  wide  and 
eighty  miles  long,  crossing  the  Republican,  Solomon 
and  Saline  Valleys.  Here  are  to  be  found  numerous 
springs,  but  more  frequently,  extensive  salt  marshes. 
One  of  these  he  thus  describes  at  length,  as  illustra- 
tive of  the  character  and  appearance  of  them  all. 

"Take  that  in  town  four,  range  two,  west  of  the 
sixth  principal  meridian,  in  the  Republican  Valley, 
about  seventy-five  miles  northwest  of  Fort  Riley. 
It  is  sometimes  called  the  Tuthill  marsh.  The  valley 
here  is  wide,  gradually  rising  to  the  high  prairies  so 
common  in  that  part  of  the  State.  The  marsh 
covers  nearly  one  thousand  acres,  more  or  less  im- 
pregnated with  saline  matter.  About  one-third  is 
entirely  void  of  vegetation,  which  the  brine  will  not 
allow  to  grow.  It  is  perfectly  level,  and  at  the  time 
of  our  first  visit  was  as  white  as  a  wintry  snow  field, 
with  a  crust  of  crystalized  salt. 

"The  incrustation  of  salt  is  frequently  three- 
eighths  of  an  inch  in  thickness.  This  is  scrnped  up 
and  used,  in  its  natural  state,  for  salting  cattle,  etc., 
but  for  domestic  purposes  it  is  dissolved,  by  being 
mixed  with  about  twenty  gallons  of  water  to  a 
bushel  of  salt,  when  the  mechanical  impurities,  sand, 
etc.,  readily  settle.  The  salt  is  again  returned  to 
a  solid  state  by  evaporation.  According  to  the 
observations  of  Mr.  J.  G.  Tuthill,  who  lives  near, 
and  has  made  borings  in  over  one  hundred  different 
places,  to  a  depth  of  twenty  or  thirty  feet,  there  is 
a  very  uniform  supply  and  strength  of  brine.  The 
water  preserved  for  analysis  was  obtained  by  me 
from  a  boring  made  at  random.  It  was  found  at  four 
feet  from  the  surface.  The  density,  by  the  salome- 


82 


HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 


ter,  was  24  deg.,  (6.16  Baume,  or  specific  gravity  of 
1.0421,)  with  the  thermometer  at  60  deg.  This 
should  give  a  bushel  of  salt  for  one  hundred  and 
thirty  gallons  of  the  water,  (not  counting  the  im- 
purities,) which  is  three  times  the  strength  of  the 
.ocean.  It  was  taken  at  our  second  visit,  immedi- 
ately after  a  heavy  rain,  which  must  have  diluted 
the  brine. 

"  The  large  quantity  of  salt,  within  the  tract 
designated  is  evident  from  the  fact  that  the  waters 
of  the  Solomon  and  Saline  are  so  impregnated  as  to 
have  a  saline  taste  from  points  eighty  miles  above 


STREET    SCENE,    HUMBOLDT. 

their  entrance  into  the  Smoky  Hill  river.  The 
waters  of  the  latter,  when  the  stream  runs  low,  also 
show  the  presence  of  the  brine.  The  supply  of 
salt  sufficient  to  meet  this  daily  and  hourly  amount 
thus  carried  down,  must  be  immense." 

Here  follows  a  statement  of  localities,  where  the 
Professor  found  salt  marshes,  varying  in  size  from 
a  few  acres  up  to  three  thousand  acres,  the  latter 
located  in  townships  four  and  five,  of  range  five 
west.  Throughout  the  country  south  of  the  Ar- 


SALT.  83 

kansas  Eiver,  there  are  also  extensive  and  very 
promising  indications  of  salt. 

Having  shown  that  these  deposits  are  found  in  the 
true  salt  bearing  geological  formations,  as  developed 
in  this  country  and  in  Europe,  and  having  proved 
that  the  strength  of  the  brines  is  entirely  satisfac- 
tory. Prof.  Mudge  proceeds  as  follows : 

"  The  analysis  of  the  salt  and  brine  from  the  Tut- 
hill  marsh,  made  by  Prof.  C.  F.  Chandler,  of  the 
School  of  Mines,  Columbia  College,  New  York,  is  as 
follows : 

Brine  Brine,  1 

Salt.  IWpts.  U.S.  gal. 

Chloride  of  Si dium  (salt) 96.689  4.708  2,861.20 

Sulphate  of  Soda 1.959  0.573  348.23 

Sulphate  of  Lime 0.216  0.157  95,41 

Chlorid«  of  Magnesium 0.300  0231  14039 

Oxide  of  Iron trace  trace. 

Sand  and  Clay 0050  0.010  0.61 

Water 0.786  94.221  57,327.35 


100,000    99.900     60,773.19 
Density  of  brine,  1.0421 — 6.16  Batime. 
Total  saline  matter  in  brine,  5.779. 
Chloride  of  Sodium  per  U.  B.  gallon  of  231  cubic  inches  6.53  oz. 

11  This  gives  one  bushel  of  solid  matter  to  one 
hundred  and  ten  gallons,  or  one  bushel  of  pure  salt 
to  one  hundred  and  thirty  gallons  of  brine.  The 
water  was  taken  by  me  from  a  boring  made  at  ran- 
dom, within  four-  feet  of  the  surface.  The  salt,  I 
took  from  one  of  fifty  hollow  logs,  in  which  it  was 
being  made.  The  percentage  of  solid  impurities  is 
2.55,  and  contains  no  chloride  of  calcium.  No  attempt 
was  made  to  purify  the  salt,  as  the  parties  making 
it  had  no  previous  knowlede  of  the  business.  The 
oidinary  market  salts  of  the  United  States  contain 
from  two  to  six  percentage  of  impurities;  a  larger 
portion  being  nearer  the  latter  than  the  former 
standard." 

The  report  of  the  Onondaga  Salt  Springs  in  the 
State  of  New  York,  shows  that  the  "  Factory  filled 
refined  for  table  and  dairy,"  contains  1.60  per  cent, 
of  solid  impurities.  The  celebrated  "  Stoved  Ashton 


84 

Salt,"  of  England,  contains  about  the  same  amount 
of  impurities,  and  they  are  prepared  with  great  care, 
and  are  acknowledged  to  be  among  the  best  salts  in 
the  world.  Thus  it  is  seen  that  our  unrefined  salts 
are  nearly  equal  to  the  best  commercial  salts. 

Subsequent  to  the  explorations  of  Professor  Mudge, 
a  few  gentlemen,  residents  of  Kansas,  stimulated  by 
these  discoveries — in  which  indeed  they  had  taken 
part,  by  defraying  certain  expenses  incurred  therein, 
organized  the  Continental  Salt  Company  and  ob- 
tained eight  hundred  acres  of  land  in  the  forks  cf 
the  Solomon  and  Smoky  Hill  Rivers. 

"  The  first  thing  done  was  to  sink  an  artesian  well 
in  the  ordinary  manner,  at  a  point  where  the  brines 
oozing  through  the  soil  at  the  river  bank  had  formed 
by  solar  evaporation  an  incrustation  of  salt  thereon. 
Indications  were  apparent  at  twenty  feet  from  the 
surface,  which  steadily  increased  in  volume  and 
strength  to  the  depth  of  two  hundred  feet.  The 
driling  was  continued  to  the  depth  of  six  hundred 
feet,  but  the  strength  of  the  brine  was  not  very 
perceptibly  increased  below  two  hundred  feet." 

This  company  is  yet  in  its  infancy,  but  they  have 
a  number  of  vats  with  movable  covers,  and  by  solar 
evaporation  have  manufactured  salt  for  three  years. 
They  have'produced  several  thousand  bushels  with 
very  satisfactory  pecuniary  results,  as  is  proven  by 
the  increased  number  of  vats  used  each  year,  and 
the  erection  of  dwellings  for  workmen.  This  salt, 
in  its  unrefined  state,  as  taken  from  the  vats,  has 
been  analyzed  by  Professor  Grossman,  of  Syracuse, 
New  York,  with  the  following  result: 

Chloride  of  Sodium  (salt) 980.565 

Sulphate  of  Lime 17.220 

Sulphate  of  Soda 3.511 

Chloride  of  Magnesium 2.400 

Chloride  of  Calcium Not  a  trace, 

It  is  to  be  noticed  that  "  not  a  trace  "  of  Chloride 
of  Calcium  was  discovered  by  this  analysis,  agreeing 


SALT.;  85 

perfectly  in  this  important  particular,  with  the 
analysis  already  given  from  Professor  Chandler,  of 
the  Tuthill  marsh  salt  and  brine.  It  is  asserted  upon 
good  authority  that  no  other  brines  have  yet  been 
discovered  in  the  United  States  that  are  entirely 
free  from  these  "  deleterious  bitter  waters." 

Even  the  celebrated  "  Petite  Ause  "  deposit  of  salt 
in  Louisiana,  which  has  been  repeatedly  claimed  as 
the  purest  salt  in  the  world,  contains  Chloride  of 
Calcium,  as  shown  by  the  following  analysis,  made 
by  Dr.  Rindall  in  1863,  acting  under  the  direction  of 
the  United  States  Government : 

Chloride  of  Sodium  (salt) 98.86 

Sulphate  of  Lime 76 

Chloride  of  Magnesium 25 

Chloride  of  Calcium 13 

100.00 

In  order  to  make  butter  which  can  be  preserved 
sweet  and  good  any  considerable  length  of  time,  it 
has  become  the  universal  custom  of  dairymen  to  use 
ground  rock  salt,  manufactured  with  great  care  and 
at  considerable  cost  in  the  United  States.  But  here 
in  Kansas,  in  the  center  of  the  Union,  are  found 
inexhaustible  stores  of  salt,  entirely  free  from  these 
bitter  waters. 

This  salt  supply  is  also  where  it  will  be  in  great 
local  demand,  both  for  dairy  purposes  and  for  pack- 
ing beef.  There  can  be  no  question  in  the  minds  of 
any  who  read  this  book  that  numerous  beef-packing 
establishments  will  soon  be  erected  where  cattle  are 
so  easily  grown  and  fattened,  and  salt  so  easily  man- 
ufactured. And  those  who  examine  the  testimony 
given  by  the  letter  of  Eev.  J.  Sternberg  must  con- 
cede that  Kansas  promises  wonderful  results  in 
dairy  products  also.  Add  to  this  the  fact  that  there 
are  no  salt  works  west  of  Michigan,  and  it  will  be 
seen  that  here  are  openings  for  enterprising  capital- 
ists which  cannot  long  remain  unoccupied. 


8o  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

People  will  ask  the  thoughtless  question, 
have  not  these  salt  resources  been  developed?  "  One 
might  as  well  ask  why  people  settled  in  the  forbid- 
ding regions  east  of  the  Alleghanies,  when  Illinois 
and  Kansas  were  all  unoccupied.  It  takes  time  to 
develop  great  resources,  and  it  is  an  advantage  which 
Kansas  offers  to  the  enterprising,  that  there  is 
something  here  to  be  developed. 

The  Saginaw  Salt  Works  produced  twenty  thous- 
and bushels  in  1860,  but  now  they  produce  three  mil- 
lion bushels  annually.  The  demand  for  salt  in  each 
State  is  nearly  one  bushel  per  annum  to  every  inhab- 
itant, and  probably  more  than  that  in  the  great  beef 
and  pork  packing  Western  States. 

IRON. 

Iron  ores,  varying  considerably  in  character,  have 
been  found  in  various  portions  of  the  State  ;  but,  as 
yet,  nothing  has  been  discovered  which  gives  any 
promise  of  competing  with  the  vast  supply  of  iron 
found  in  Missouri,  at  a  distance  of  only  about  one 
hundred  miles  from  our  eastern  border ;  and,  in  Col- 
orado, but  three  hundred  miles  from  our  western 
border.  We  have  the  coal  for  manufacturing,  and  it 
is  not  far  to  bring  iron,  either  from  the  east  or  the 
west. 

But  it  is  not  improbable  that  it  will  yet  be  found 
in  paying  quantities  in  unexplored  Western  Kansas. 
Professor  Swallow  says :  "  The  tertiary  strata  in  the 
western  part  of  the  State  probably  contain  extensive 
beds  of  this  ore."  Professor  Mudge  says :  "  We 
have  been  shown  a  specimen  of  brown  hematite  iron 
ore  from  the  western  part  of  the  State  of  very  supe- 
rior quality,  and  containing  nearly  sixty  per  cent,  of 
iron. 

LEAD. 
Lead  has  been  taken  out  to  a  small  extent  in  Linn 


TIX.  87 

county,  and  those  familiar  with  the  locality  believe 
that  it  would  be  profitable  to  develop  the  mines.  It 
is  evident  from  the  debris  about  the  excavations  that 
considerable  work  haa  been  done  here  many  years 
ago,  but  there  is  no  clue  by  which  we  can  determine 
who  were  the  miners,  and  there  are  no  evidences 
of  ancient  habitations  in  that  vicinity. 

Lead  ore  from  Howard  county  was  presented  to 
the  Kansas  Historical  Society  by  Professor  J".  D. 
Parker,  in  December,  1870,  and  was  analyzed  by 
Professor  W.  H.  Saunders  of  the  State  University, 
with  the  following  result : 

Sulp'aur 1333 

Lead 86.67 

100.00 

The  analysis  will  be  seen  to  be  satisfactory,  but 
whether  the  ore  exists  in  paying  quantities  is  unde- 
termined. • 

G-eologists  tell  us  that  there  is  no  probability  that 
lead  exists  in  any  considerable  quantities  in  Kansas; 
but  it  has  often  been  asserted  by  friendly  Indians 
that  they  knew  of  extensive  deposits  of  lead  ore. 
The  Ottawas,  who  lately  removed  to  the  Indian  Ter- 
ritory from  Franklin  county,  were  confident  that 
within  a  half  mile  of  a  certain  spring  on  their  reser- 
vation, there  is  lead  in  abundance.  I  once  had  in  my 
possession  a  very  fine  specimen  of  lead  ore,  which 
an  Indian  of  the  Sac  and  Fox  tribe  asserted  that  he 
found  on  their  reservation  in  Osage  county,  but  the 
location  he  would  not  point  out.  Uneducated  Indi- 
ans believe  that  the  Great  Spirit  will  be  angry  if  they 
reveal  to  white  men  any  mineral  deposits. 

TIN. 

Concerning  this  metal,  Professor  Mudge  holds 
the  following  language :  "Frequent  reports  have  been 
in  circulation  that  this,  usually  rare  mineral,  is  found 


ALUM.  89 

here.  Several  fine  specimens  of  rich  protoxyd  of  tin 
have  been,  on  several  occasions,  produced  by  the 
Indians.  As  their  statements  concerning  them  were, 
in  some  cases,  not  true,  it  still  remains  an  unsettled 

question  whether  they  originated  in  the  State. 

***** 

"  Until  we  find  some  eruptive  rocks  breaking 
through  the  recent  strata,  we  must  conclude  that  it 
is  not  native  to  Kansas.  The  western  portion  of  the 
State,  however,  is  so  far  a  geological  terra-incognita 
that  it  is  possible  that  some  local  igneous  action  may 
have  brought  tin  to  the  surface." 

ALUM. 

On  page  28  of  Professor  Mudge's  report  occurs  the 
following : 

"  We  have  noticed  the  presence  of  alum  in  quite  a 
number  of  places  in  the  State.  At  Zeandale  it  is 
found  in  small  crystals;  also,  at  several  points  on 
Mill  creek,  in  Wabaunsee  county.  In  the  eastern 
part  of  T.  4;  E.  10,  west,  it  is  found  in  connection 
with  a  seam  of  lignite  coal.  It  is  associated  with 
native  sulphur.  A  similar  deposit  is  seen  on  Chap- 
man creek,  in  T.  11,  K.  2.  east,  about  twenty  miles 
west  of  Fort  Riley,  with  the  additional  associate  of 
salt-petre  or  nitrate  of  potash.  It  is  also  found  in 
various  places  on  the  southern  side  of  the  Smoky 
Hill,  from  Saliua  eastward,  over  a  tract  of  fifteen  or 
twenty  miles  in  extent.  It  exists  in  a  sufficient  quan- 
tity to  make  a  commercial  commodity,  whenever 
capital  and  labor  shall  become  more  abundant  in  our 
State. 

"In  England,  alum  is  manufactured  from  alum  slate 
and  analagous  minerals,  in  which  it  becomes  neces- 
sary to  calcine  and  pulverize  the  material  before  the 
alum  can  be  extracted.  But  in  our  deposits  the  artu 
4* 


90  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

cle  is  so  free  that  the  manufacture  will  be  much  more 
easy  and  economical." 

HYDRAULIC    CEMENT. 

Professor  Swallow  says :  "  Limestone  suitable  for 
hydraulic  cement  is  abundant." 

From  Professor  Mudge  I  quote  as  follows : 

"A  bed  of  brown  hydraulic  limestone  was 
worked,  about  eight  or  ten  years  ago,  by  the  late 
Dr.  F.  Barker,  at  his  farm  four  miles  northwest  of 
Lawrence.  Not  being  familiar  with  the  manufac- 
ture of  the  article,  he  probably  did  not  succeed  as 
well  as  a  person  of  experience.  Still  he  made  a  good 
cement,  which  was  used  by  various  builders  at  Law- 
rence, for  cisterns  and  other  similar  purposes. 
Many  of  the  cisterns  are  still  in  use,  with  the 
cement  in  good  condition.  They  show  a  durability 
which  compares  favorably  with  the  best  Kentucky 
cements  now  sold  in  our  State.  Dr.  Barker  was 
intending  to  pursue  the  business  more  systematically 
and  extensively,  when  his  death  closed  the  opera- 
tions. No  one  has  worked  the  bed  since  his  decease. 
His  experiment,  so  far  as  it  was  tried,  was  perfectly 
satisfactory,  and  the  stratum  has  all  the  qualities  of 
a  good  hydraulic  cement.  This  bed  of  hydraulic 
limestone  extends  across  the  country  over  Leaven- 
worth  and  Atchison  counties,  and  also  southwest- 
erly, nearly,  if  not  quite,  to  the  southerly  bounds  of 
the  State,  and  probably  it  will  be  found  to  retain 
good  cement  properties  in  the  whole  of  that  exten- 
sive area." 

It  is  probably  the  same  bed  which  has  but  re- 
cently been  opened  in  Cowley  county,  near  the 
Arkansas  River,  which  I  am  informed  produces  an 
excellent  article  of  cement. 

PETROLEUM. 

This  oil  flows  to  the  surface  through  the  fractures 


PAINTS.  91 

in  sandstone  rock  in  many  places.  The  Indians 
from  earliest  times,  have  collected  it  from  springs 
and  used  it  for  medicinal  purposes.  Whether  it 
exists  in  sufficient  quantities  to  furnish  an  article 
of  commerce,  remains  unsettled. 

Considerable  expenditures  have  been  made  in 
borings  in  Miami  county,  and  oil  in  quantities  was 
obtained,  but  the  final  results  were  unsatisfactory. 

Professor  Mudge  says : 

"It  is  found  at  so  many  different  places,  that  it  is 
reasonable  to  suppose  that  a  large  body  may  exist 
below.  The  nature  of  the  clay  shales  which  com- 
pose a  large  portion  of  the  deposits  for  seven  or 
eight  hundred  feet  below  the  'surface,  would  not 
readily  allow  it  to  come  up,  if  it  were  there.  Should 
it  be  found  in  paying  quantities  it  is  probable  that 
it  will  be  below  the  coal  measures.  No  one  should 
invest  in  the  business  more  than  he  could  afford  to 
lose  without  embarrassment.  The  question  cannot 
be  considered  as  settled  without  numerouri  borings 
to  a  depth  of  eight  hundred  or  one  thousand  feet." 

PAINTS. 

Professor  Swallow  says  :  "  There  are  several  beds 
of  purple  shales  in  the  coal  measures  which  appear 
to  have  all  the  properties  of  a  good  outside  paint. 
One  of  these  beds  has  been  used  at  Parkville  and 
other  places,  and  found  beautiful,  durable,  and  fire 
proof  when  used  in  thick  coats.  The  bed  thus 
proved  is  over  ten  feet  thick,  and  crops  out  in  the 
bluff  of  the  Missouri  all  the  way  from  White  Cloud 
to  Wyandotte,  and  up  the  Kansas  to  Lawrence.  It 
also  appears  southeast  to  Mound  City.  Other  beds 
which  appear  equally  valuable  crop  out  on  the  Big 
Blue,  the  Neosho,  the  Cotton  wood  and  the  Verdigris/' 

At  Fort  Scott,. twenty-five  miles  south  of  Mound 
City,  a  vein  or  bed  of  paint  was  discovered  after  the 


92  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

above  was  written.  This  is  a  few  feet  below  the 
surface,  and  is  extensively  used  in  that  locality.  It 
is  also  coming  to  be  an  article  of  export  to  other 
places,  and  gives  good  satisfaction.  There  is  no 
room  for  doubt  that  in  Kansas,  awaiting  develop- 
ment, there  is  material  for  making  a  fire  proof  and 
water  proof  paint  for  roofs,  as  well  as  for  walls  and 
fences. 

Learning  of  a  deposit  of  paint  at  Osage  City  on 
the  Atchison,  Topeka  and  Santa  Fe  Eailroad,  I  ad- 
dressed a  letter  of  inquiry  to  one  of  the  principal 
citizens  of  the  place,  Mr.  John  F.  Dodds,  and  received 
the  following  reply,  dated  March  1st,  1871  : 

"The  mineral  paint  at  our  place  is  ochre.  The 
vein  or  bed  is  about  three  fourths  of  a  mile  in  width, 
one  mile  or  more  in  length,  and  twelve  feet  six  inches 
thick.  It  lies  from  five  to  eight  feet  below  the  sur- 
face, and  upon  a  strata  of  solid  limestone  rock,  vary- 
ing in  thickness  from  two  to  three  feet.  The  pig- 
ment has  been  analyzed  by  Dr.  W.  H.  Saunders,  of 
Lawrence,  and  by  Dr.  Murray,  of  Dayton,  Ohio,  with 
Ihe  following  results,  viz: 

Ochre 98 

Alum 1 

L!me .'. 1 

100 

*'  I  send  you  the  fallowing  figures,  taken  from 
accurate  measurement  of  the  strata  underneath  our 
town : 

Section  of  34  feet  8  inches  below  the  surface. 

tSoil  and  earth 5  feet 

•Qjhre 12    "     6  inches 

Limestone  2 

Clay  and  Shale 3 

Limestone 3 

Slate  and  Shale 3 

Goal 1 

lire  Clay , _4 

Tdial...., 31 


LIME   BURNING.  93 

CLAY    FOR   BRICK. 

Notwithstanding  the  abundant  supply  of  excel- 
lent stone  for  building  purposes,  many  people  prefer 
to  build  of  brick.  There  is  a  plentiful  supply  of 
clay  for  brick  making,  and  it  is  often  so  intermixed 
with  sand  as  to  be  ready  for  tempering  and  mold- 
ing. With  clay  and  timber  convenient  to  the  house 
site,  a  farmer  may,  with  the  aid  of  an  experienced 
brick  maker,  and  two  or  three  cheap  hands,  burn  a 
kiln  of  brick  at  a  small  cost  for  the  construction  of 
his  buildings.  When  sold  at  kilns,  the  prices  range 
from  eight  dollars  to  ten  dollars  per  thousand,  in  the 
season  for  the  business,  but  the  supply  is  always 
exhausted  before  the  demand  ceases  in  the  fall,  and 
prices  become  somewhat  higher. 

LIME   BURNING. 

From  what  has  been  said  of  the  configuration  of 
the  country,  and  of  the  location  of  stone  quarries, 
it  will  readily  be  seen  that  it  is  little  trouble  to  make 
quick  lime.  Any  of  the  limestone  rock  makes 
lime,  but  the  strongest  quality  obtained  from  com- 
mon limestone,  is  made  from  the  darker  layers.  All 
the  varieties  of  maguesian  limestone,  make  strong 
and  white  lime. 

Having  selected  a  good  quarry,  and  one  need  not 
go  far  to  find  it,  an  excavation  of  the  desired  size  is 
made  in  the  side  of  the  hill,  all  quarries  being  upon 
the  edge  of  a  declivity.  This  opening  is  walled  up 
from  the  bottom,  and  an  open  arch  five  or  six  feet 
high  is  left  on  the  lower  side,  where  the  fuel  is  put 
in  and  the  lime  taken  out  when  burned.  The  top 
of  the  kiln  is  drawn  partly  together  to  cause  a 
draft.  Rock  are  then  laid  up  roughly  on  the  bot- 
tom in  the  form  of  an  arch,  to  contain  fuel,  and 
upon  this  rough  arch  the  stones  for  lime  are  thrown 


94  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

from  the  top,  until  the  kiln  is  fall.  Either  wood  'or 
coal  is  used  for  fuel,  and  a  brisk  fire  is  kept  up  three 
or  four  days,  after  which  the  lime  is  ready  for  use. 
When  coal  is  used  it  is  mixed  with  the  stone,  instead 
of  being  placed  under  it,  as  is  the  case  with  wood. 
The  lime  thus  burned  is  somewhat  injured  chemi- 
cally, owing  to  the  presence  of  more  or  less  sulphur 
in  the  coal.  To  obviate  this,  a  patent  coal  kiln  is 
used,  wherein  water  can  be  applied  in  such  manner 
as  to  counteract  the  effects  of  the  sulphur.  If  left 
in  the  kiln  the  top  and  entrance  should  be  covered 
to  keep  out  water.  Lime  long  exposed  to  the  air 
re-absorbs  carbonic  acid,  which  was  thrown  off  by 
burning,  and  becomes  limestone  again,  in  a  finely 
pulverized  state. 

In  slacking  lime,  add  to  it  at  once  enough  water  to 
cover  it,  •  and  stir  it  constantly  until  it  is  slacked, 
when  it  should  be  of  the  cousistency  of  cream.  If 
only  a  little  water  is  added  at  a  time  it  injures  the 
quality  of  the  lime. 

Fresh  lime  is  largely  used  by  many  eastern 
farmers,  and  especially  in  the  famous  and  fertile 
Shenandoah  Yalley  of  Virginia,  as  a  top  dressing 
for  the  soil,  five  to  fifteen  bushels  per  acre  being 
applied  about  every  ten  years.  That  valley  is  in  a 
limestone  formation.  There  is  little  doubt  that  much 
of  our  Kansas  soil  would  be  benefited  by  the  appli- 
cation of  lime.  For  whatever  purposes  needed, 
whether  mechanical  or  agricultural,  it  is  abundant 
in  Kansas.  It  sells  at  the  kiln  for  about  twenty, 
cents  per  bushel  and  with  a  good  profit  to  the  burner. 

WESTERN  KANSAS  AND  THE  BUFFALO  GRASS. 

The  western  third  of  Kansas  now  demands  our 
particular  attention — the  portion  so  lately  included 
in  that  mythical  region,  "  The  Great  American  Des- 
ert." I  am  firmly  persuaded  that  no  portion  of  the 


WESTERN  KANSAS  AND  THE  BUFFALO  GRASS.'      95 

United  States  east  of  the  Kocky  Mountains  deserves 
this  title,  for  the  simple  reason  that  there  is  no  des- 
ert. Wherever  buffalo,  antelope,  and  deer  graze  and 
fatten,  there  domestic  cattle  may  also  graze  and 
fatten,  and  it  is  known  that  these  animals  have  from 


LEAVENWORTH. 


time  immemorial,  ranged  in  countless  numbers  in  all 
the  region  called  the  plains.  Certainly  it  is  a  mis- 
nomer to  speak  of  any  country  as  a  desert,  that  will, 
by  a  few  months  grazing,  so  fatten  cattle  that  they 
actually  compete  in  Eastern  markets  with  stall-fed 


96  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

cattle.  This  may  be  done  in  all  that  country  alluded 
to.  It  is  true  that  there  is  a  great  difference  in  the 
amount  of  feed  produced  per  acre  in  different  locali- 
ties, but  even  the  poorest  of  all  this  vast  area  pro- 
duces scattering  tufts  of  buffalo  grass. 

The  treeless  expanse  called  "  The  Plains,"  sweeps 
along  the  base  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  two  or  three 
hundred  miles  in  width  at  its  southern  extremity, 
and  gradually  widening  as  it  extends  fifteen  hundred 
miles  northward  into  British  America.  On  most  of 
this  vast  area,  the  grass  is  not  simply  scattering, 
but  is  a  continuous  mat  of  fine  herbage,  three  to  six 
inches  high. 

The  best  grass  growing  in  Texas  is  called  mesquit, 
and  produces  two  or  three  times  as  much  feed  per 
acre  as  the  buffalo  grass.  Near  and  among  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  is  gramma  grass,  and  also  a  va- 
riety called  bunch  grass.  On  a  portion  of  the  plains 
is  a  grass  called  small,  or  bastard  mesquit.  All  these 
grasses  have  a  curled  leaf.  The  name,  buffalo  grass, 
is  given  to  all  grasses  of  this  kind  in  Kansas.  Some 
think  the  true  buffalo  gra.-s  to  be  a  distinct  variety 
from  the  small  mesquit,  and  others  claim  that  they 
are  identical.  The  buffalo  grass  spreads  on  the 
ground  somewhat  in  the  manner  of  a  strawberry 
vine,  and  its  leaf  curls  close  to  the  ground,  so  that 
it  looks  more  like  a  bed  of  bleached  moss  than  it 
does  like  common  grass.  Its  seed  grows  on  one  side 
of  a  delicate  stem.  This  grass  is  extremely  sweet, 
and  the  more  so  the  nearer  its  roots. 

It  is  true  that  there  are  considerable  alkali  tracts 
on  the  plains,  (but  not  in  Kansas,  according  to  the 
best  information  which  I  can  obtain,)  where  grazing 
is  not  practicable,  by  reason  of  bad  water,  but  not 
for  lack  of  a  fertile  soil,  because,  by  irrigation,  alkali 
lands,  as  in  Utah,  become  extremely  productive. 
Most  varieties  of  these  grasses  are  in  a  growing  con- 
dition from  early  spring  until  autumn,  when,  during 


WESTERN  KANSAS  AXD  THE  BUFFALO  GRASS.      97 

« 

the  beautiful  weather  of  that  season,  they  cure  upon 
the  stalk.  Thus  they  retain  their  nutritious  quali- 
ties through  the  dry  winters,  which  invariably  bless 
the  herdsman  and  his  herd  in  these  regions.  Other 
varieties  are  green  in  Western  Kansas  during  the 
winter  months,  as  the  attentive  reader  can  learn 
from  the  letter  of  Rev.  L.  Sternberg,  of  Fort  Harker. 

Add  to  this  sufficient  evidence,  the  indisputable 
fact  that  cattle  in  vast  herds,  not  of  hundreds  simply, 
but  of  thousands  in  number,  are  to-day  grazing  upon 
buffalo  grass,  and  that  not  alone  in  Kansas,  but  also 
in  Colorado,  Nebraska  and  Wyoming. 

Travelers  who  pass  through1  Kansas  upon  the 
Kansas  Pacific  Railway^  enter  upon  the  Buffalo  grass 
region  after  riding  about  two  hundred  miles  through 
the  fat  meadows,  the  luxuriant  corn  fields,  and  the 
vigorous  wild  grasses  of  Eastern  Kansas,  and  as  they 
come  in  sight  of  the  brown  and  shriveled  buffalo 
grass,  it  seems  indeed  contemptible.  It  is  very  true 
that  vast  herds  of  buffalo  are  seen,  extending  for 
miles  in  either  direction,  sometimes  huddled  in  dis- 
tant masses  which  resemble  low  islands  in  the  sea, 
or,  at  other  times,  are  so  numerous  and  so  persistent 
in  keeping  to  their  course,  that  the  engineer  is 
obliged  to  stop  his  train  and  give  them  the  track; 
until  they  cross  it  in  their  line  of  march.  The  trav- 
eler also  sees  the  dressed  carcasses  of  buffalo  and 
antelope  at  every  station,  which  are  as  fat  as  stall- 
fed  beef;  and  yet  many  people  return  from  the  trip 
and  talk  about  the  "Buffalo  Grass  Desert."  Who 
would  suppose  that  buffalo  would  return  to  a  "  des- 
ert" for  feed  year  after  year?  nay,  that  they  would 
stay  there  the  year  around,  as  thousands  annually 
do  stay  in  the  valleys  of  the  Republican,  Solomon, 
Smoky  Hill  and  Arkansas  rivers,  and  their  tributa- 
ries? Many  an  eastern  farmer  would  gladly  turn  the 
flocks  and  herds  on  to  this  desert,  which  crop  the 
5 


98  HUTCHINSON'S  KA?:SAS. 

low  grass  iu  his  high  priced  pastures,  or  daring  six 
months  of  winter,  eat  the  hay  he  has  so  laboriously 
garnered. 

'I  think  the. higher  and  drier  portions  of  Western 
Kansas  is  in  some  respects  superior  as  a  winter  stock 
range.  The  less  rain  falls  upon  the  grass,  the  richer 
it  will  be.  This  is  not  a  theoretical  opinion.  Stock 
that  ranged  on  grass  during  the  hard  winter  of 
1860-'61,  which  succeeded  the  famous  "dry  season," 
came  out  in  the  spring  in  better  order  than  usual. 
The  grass  was  short,  but  very  nutritious — having 
cured  on  the  ground.  The  time  is  not  distant  when 
the  western  portion  of  the  State,  one  hundred  by 
two  hundred  miles  in  extent,,  will  be  selected  as  the 
choice  pasture  land  of  the  continent.  Its  altitude  of 
twenty-five  hundred  to  thirty-five  hundred  feet  above 
the  ocean  level,  makes  the  climate  all  that*  could  be 
be  desired.  It  is  plentifully  watered  for  stock  pur- 
poses, by  springs  and  running  streams,  whose  water 
is  palatable  to  the  herds  and  flocks,  and  upon  the 
banks  are  small  timber  growths,  and  high  bluffs  for 
shelter.  There  are  also  stone  quarries,  from  which 
houses  may  be  cheaply  constructed  for  the  herdsmen. 
I  think  it  true  that  everywhere  in  Kansas,  a  little 
hay  ought  to  be  put  up  as  a  safeguard  against  light 
snows,  accompanied  by  wind,  which  may  render 
grazing  difficult  for  a  few  days  at  a  time.  Such 
snows  occur  every  two  or  three  years,  in  all  the 
region  we  have  been'  considering  ;  but  are  much  less 
severe  in  Kansas  than  farther  north.  Whenever 
they  occur,  great  herders  expect  to  lose  more  or  less 
stock.  It  is  one  of  the  chances  they  take,  and  the 
aggregate  results  for  a  series  of  years  prove  that 
with  all  the  risks,  the  business  is  still  very  profita- 
ble. But  in  every  part  of  Kansas  there  is  grass  in 
abundance  to  make  hay.  The  wide  bottoms  afford 
from  one  to  three  tons  per  acre,  even  at  the  western 
limits  of  the  State,  and  on  ground  as  smooth  as  a 


WESTERN  KANSAS  AND  THE  BUFFALO  GRASS.       99 

floor,  it  is  little  trouble  to  put  up  hay  with  machin- 
ery. Perhaps  half  the  year  it  would  stand  untouched, 
while  stock  fattened  on  the  buffalo  grass.  But  it  is 
better  to  provide  against  contingencies,  and  if  not 
used,  it  will  keep  over  in  good  condition,  if  well 
stacked.  The  estimated  amount  that  ought  to  be 
put  up  per  head  in  the  buffalo  grass  region,  is  from 
four  hundred  to  six  hundred  pounds.  Among  scores 
of  experienced  stock  men,  with  whom  I  compared 
notes  upon  this  subject,  none  set  it  higher  than  the 
latter  figures. 

John  S.  Chisum,  one  of  the  most  noted  stock  deal- 
ers and  breeders  of  Texas,  a  man  who  handles  cat- 
tle by  the  ten  thousand  head,  said :  "  For  Kansas, 
from  four  to  five  hundred  pounds."  Major  H.  Shank- 
lin,  of  Lawrence,  who  has  wintered  cattle  in  the 
Arkansas  Valley  several  seasons,  said :  "  Five  hun- 
dred pounds,  and  it  may  rot  down  unfed  every  other 
year."  Eev.  L.  Sternberg,  who  lives  at  Fort  Harker, 
on  the  Kansas  Pacific  Railway,  said :  "  Five  or  six 
hundred  pounds,  and  probably  not  half  that  amount 
will  be  fed  out."  Nor  is  this  precaution  desirable  for 
Kansas  alone.  In  Colorado,  prudent  persons  provide 
a  little  hay  for  their  stock,  and  think  that  it  pays 
them  a  profit  to  do  so,  and  with  the  rearing  of  im- 
proved breeds  this  will  be  an  acknowledged  neces- 
sity. Large  herders  with  thousands  of  cattle,  do 
not  consider  the  loss  of  a  few  score  head  of  cheap 
Texas  stock  as  a  matter  of  importance.  But  when 
each  bullock  comes  to  be  worth  fifty  or  seventy-five 
dollars,  the  case  will  be  different. 

The  foregoing  was  written  in  December,  1870.  It 
is  now  April,  1871,  and  we  have  passed  through  a 
very  severe  winter,  snow  having  lain  on  the  ground 
longer  than  ever  before  known.  During  this  winter 
many  thousand  head  of  cattle  have  fed  on  buffalo 
grass  and  winter  grasses,  without  any  hay  or  grain 
whatever.  The  result  has  been  surprising  to  all. 


100 


HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 


Among  Texas  cattle,  or  stock  bred  from  them,  (and 
there  is  little  other  stock  in  the  buffalo  grass  region,) 
there  has  been  less  loss  than  in  the  more  eastern  or 
southern  portion  of  the  State,  where  they  were  fed 
on  hay  or  hay  and  corn.  The  cattle  thus  wintered 
will  soon  fatten  upon  the  fresh  grass.  It  is  natural 
for  this  stock  to  get  its  own  living  on  the  range, 
and  they  do  not  do  well  on  corn  the  first  year  they 
are  brought  from  Texas.  Next  to  their  native  range 


WIRE    SUSPENSION   BRIDGE,    OTTAWA. 

a  field  of  standing  corn  stalks,  after  the  ears  have 
been  plucked,  seems  the  best  suited  to  their  wants. 
Sheep  have  also  done  well  in  Western  Kansas 
this  winter,  on  grass  alone.  I  am  convinced  that 
herders,  with  several  hundred  or  thousands  of  cattle, 
will  do  better  to  seek  some  of  the  many  canyons,  or 
sheltering  bluffs,  or  timber  patches,  to  be  found  in 
the  buffalo  grass  region,  with  plenty  of  water,  and 
graze  stock  all  the  season,  than  to  cut  hay  for  them. 


f 
WESTERN  KANSAS  AND  THE  BUFFALO  GRASS.  101 

The  loss  in  the  former  case  will  not  equal  the  addi- 
tional expense  in  the  latter  case.  Small  stock  raisers 
and  farmers  will  undoubtedly  do  well  to  put  up  a 
little  hay. 

In  short,  Western  Kansas  and  its  buffalo  grass 
offers  the  best  advantages  in  this  State,  or  in  any  State 
for  stock  raising.  I  do  not  advise  people  to  rush  into 
that  region — that  is,  to  the  remote  high  prairies 
where  nothing  grows  but  buffalo  grass — who  are 
destitute  of  means,  but  with  a  little  capital  to  invest 
in  stock,  a  living  is  certain  and  easy.  There  is  cer- 
tainly no  need  for  any  to  suffer  for  meat  in  that 
region,  for  buffalo  meat  is  toothsome  and  nutritious, 
and  to  be  had  for  the  killing,  while  the  peculiar  waxy 
fat  furnishes  to  the  hardy  frontiersman  a  sweet  and 
healthful  substitute  for  bread. 

The  amount  of  feed  on  a  given  space  of  buffalo 
grass,  is  also  much  greater  than  most  people  suppose. 
Even  Horace  G-reeley,  who  was  the  first  man  of 
prominence  in  the  east,  to  recognize  the  value  of  the 
trans-Missouri  country,  speaks  of  grazing  one  bul- 
lock to  each  quarter  section,  (160  acres.)  But  the 
most  intelligent  of  experienced  observers,  reckon 
from  three  to  five  acres  of  buffalo  grass  as  furnishing 
as  much  feed  as  one  acre  of  our  best  prairie  grasses, 
such  as  are  found  in  eastern  Kansas  and  in  Illinois. 

In  confirmation  of  what  has  been  said,  I  take 
pleasure  in  presenting  the  following  letters,  relating 
respectively  to  the  northern,  central  and  southern 
portions  of  Western  Kansas.  All  are  written  by 
gentlemen  well  known  in  their  respective  localities. 
The  first  is  from  a  farmer,  Mr.  A.  B.  Warner,  in 
northwestern  Kansas : 

"  EEPUBLIC  COUNTY,  KANSAS,      ) 
November  28,  1870.  J 
Mr.  0.  0.  Hutchinson: 

DEAR  SIR:  I  send  you  a  few  facts  concerning  the 
northern  part  of  the  State,  or  at  least  that  portion 


102  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

of  it  which  has  come  under  my  personal  observation. 
The  portion  I  shall  refer  to,  is  chiefly  watered  by  the 
Republican  River  and  its  tributaries.  These  streams 
have  many  beautiful  mill  sites,  and  we  think  here  it 
would  be  hard  to  find  a  portion  of  prairie  country 
more  highly  favored  in  respect  to  water,  notwith- 
standing it  is  in  <  drouthy  Kansas. ' 

"  About  eighty  miles  west  of  this  county,  a  tribu- 
tary takes  in  to  the  Republican,  called  Prairie  Dog, 
and  a  beautiful  stream  it  is,  having  quite  a  belt  of 
timber  along  its  banks.  Its  bottoms  are  wide  and 
fertile,  and  all  who  see  it  are  in  no  wise  sparing  of 
their  praise.  There  is  yet  little  or  no  settlement 
along  the  stream,  and  none  on  the  adjacent  prairies, 
but  there  is  strong  talk  of  a  settlement  there  in  the 
spring.  White  Rock  is  another  tributary  of  the 
Republican  and  enters  it  about  ten  miles  from  where 
the  last  named  stream  crosses  the  western  line  of 
Kansas  from  Nebraska  and  in  range  five  west.  On 
its  lovely  bank,  on  lands  the  most  beautiful  eyes 
ever  rested  upon,  we  have  taken  up  our  abodes.  Its 
line  towards  the  head  is  a  trifle  south  of  west,  and 
it  is  about  sixty  miles  long.  It  has  quite  an  abun- 
dance of  timber,  though  not  quite  so  much  as  Prairie 
Dog,  and  besides  the  stream  is  not  so  large.  The 
waters  of  the  latter  run  the  year  round,  while  those 
of  White  Rock,  in  very  dry  weather,  will  sometimes 
cease  to  run,  though  at  all  times  it  contains  a  suffi- 
ciency of  pure  water  for  stock.  Its  bottoms  are 
very  fertile,  as  well  as  the  adjoining  prairies.  The 
former  are  all  taken  for  thirty  miles  from  its  mouth, 
but  of  the  latter  there  are  thousands  and  tens  of 
thousands  of  acres  of  as  rich  and  beautiful  prairie 
lands  as  ever  graced  a  western  State.  The  old  inhab- 
itants say  they  can  get  a  living  here  easier  than  in 
any  other  place  they  ever  saw. 
Yours  respectfully, 

A.  B.  WARNER." 


WESTERN  KANSAS  AND  THE  BUFFALO  GRASS.  103 

The  next  letter  is  from  Eev.  Dr.  L.  Sternberg,  a 
Lutheran  clergyman  of  high  standing,  who  went  to 
Western  Kansas  for  his  health,  and  to  open  farms 
with  his  sons.  He  formerly  resided  in  New  York, 
and  afterward  in  Ohio  and  Northern  Illinois,  and  is 
consequently  familiar  with  the  best  dairy  regions  in 
the  United  States.  I  call  especial  attention  to  the 
testimony  he  adduces  as  to  the  character  of  this 
region  for 

Dairying. 

11  FORT  HARKER,  December  10,  1870. 
Mr.  0.  C.  Hutchinson  : 

DEAR  SIR  :  You  desire  to  know  if  the  Plains  are 
well  adapted  to  butter  and  cheese  making,  and  also 
my  method.  In  replying  to  the  first  inquiry,  it  may 
be  proper  to  say  that  I  am  not  prepared  to  speak  of 
the  Plains  generally.  Portions  of  them  may  be  bar- 
ren and  destitute  of  water  and  of  natural  shelter  for 
stock.  My  remarks  are  intended  to  apply  more 
especially  to  Ellsworth  county,  the  eastern  limit  in 
this  part  of  the  State  of  the  buffalo  grass  region. 
Whether  a  country  is  well  adapted  for  stock  and  dairy 
purposes,  depends  upon  its  grasses,  water  and  climate. 

"  We  have  both  winter  and  summer  grasses.  Our 
winter  grasses  are  such  as  keep  green,  and  grow 
somewhat  during  the  winter,  especially  in  sheltered 
places  in  ravines  and  near  the  banks  of  streams. 
They  come  forward  very  early  in  the  spring  so  as  to 
afford  good  pasturage,  in  this  region  generally  about 
the  middle  of  March.  The  principal  variety  ripens 
about  the  first  of  June,  and  resembles  what  we  used 
to  call  the  early  June  grass  in  New  York.  When 
green,  it  is  sweet  and  tender,  and  cattle  eat  it  with 
avidity.. 

"Our  summer  grasses  may  be  divided  into  two 
classes,  consisting  of  such  as  are  only  fit  for  grazing, 


104  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS.- 

and  such  as  are  also  suitable  to  be  cut  for  hay.  The 
term  buffalo  grass,  includes  the  gramma  grass,  or  the 
curled  mesquit,  both  of  them  remarkably  nutritious, 
even  when  ripened  and  dry,  and  affording  almost  as 
good  pasturage  in  winter  as  in  summer,  but  too  short 
to  be  cut  for  hay.  The  blue  joint  is  our  principal 
grass  for  hay.  It  is  the  latest  of  our  grasses  in  com- 
ing forward  in  the  spring,  only  appearing  about  the 
time  when  our  winter  grasses  are  beginning  to  ripen. 
We  have  at  present  little  more  of  this  grass  than  is 
required  for  hay  ;  but  I  am  sorry  to  say  that  it  is 
slowly  but  surely  supplanting  the  buffalo  grass.  The 
milk  produced  from  these  grasses  is  remarkably  rich, 
and  our  cows  have  access  to  no  plants  giving  their 
milk  an  unpleasant  flavor,  except  that  late  in  the  fall 
they  sometimes  eat  a  species  of  wild  sage,  giving  it  a 
bitter  taste. 

"  Good  water  is  a  prime  necessity  for  a  stock  and 
dairy  country.  It  should  be  running  water.  Stagnant 
water  affects  the  quality  of  the  milk  injuriously. 
Water  drawn  by  hand  involves  too  much  labor,  and 
is  too  uncertain  a  reliance.  Our  river  water,  and 
that  flowing  from  our  numerous  springs,  is  most 
excellent  for  stock. 

"Our  climate  is  of  a  medium,  character.  We  are 
subject  to  occasional  storms,  when  cattle  need  some 
natural  or  artificial  shelter,  and  it  may  be  some  hay. 
Usually,  however,  they  graze  upon  the  open  prairie, 
in  winter  as  in  summer.  Thus  far  I  have  not  been 
required  to  feed  my  cattle  more  than  about  a  dozen 
times  during  the  winter,  and  they  reach  the  spring 
in  fine  order,  unless  they  should  be  pulled  dow'n 
somewhat  by  some  special  cause,  such  as  coming  in 
too  early.  In  summer  our  climate  is  not  warmer 
than  in  more  northern  latitudes.  However  warm  it 
may  be  during  the  day,  our  nights  are  invariably 
cool  and  refreshing.  The  heats  of  summer,  there- 
fore, interfere  but  little  with  butter  and  cheese  mak- 


WESTERN  KANSAS  AND  THE  BUFFALO  GRASS.    105 

ing,  to  those  who  have  a  suitable  place  for  the  pur- 
pose, and  I  know  of  no  reason  why  we  may  not  com- 
pete succesfully  both  as  to  quality  and  quantity  with 
the  dairymen  of  any  part  of  our  country. 

"  In  the  manufacture  of  butter,  I  am  careful  as  'to 
the  condition  of  my  cream,  not  leaving  it  to  stand 
too  long.  I  use  the  dash  churn.  I  am  careful  to 
work  out  all  the  buttermilk,  and  yet  not  destroy  the 
grain  of  the  butter.  This  requires  both  experience 
and  skill.  The  salt  which  should  be  of  the  purest 
kind,  and  about  an  ounce  to  the  pound  of  butter, 
should  be  thoroughly  incorporated  with  the  butter, 
and  dissolve  in  it.  If  the  cream  be  too  warm  in 
churning,  the  butter  will  be  of  an  inferior  quality, 
and  will  readily  soften  in  warm  weather.  The  proper 
temperature  is  from  fifty-six  to  sixty  degrees.  The 
cooler  the  cream,  the  longer  the  butter  is  in  coming, 
but  the  better  the  butter. 

Yours  truly, 

L.  STEENBEEG." 

At  the  last  annual  February  meeting  of  the 
Farmers'  Institute,  held  at  the  State  Agricultural 
College,  in  Manhattan,  Eev.  Dr.  Sternberg  was  pres- 
ent with  his  friend  and  neighbor  of  Ellsworth  county, 
Mr.  Long,  who  is  engaged  in  the  cheese  business. 
Mr.  Long  said : 

"  Kansas  is  looked  upon  as  a  great  beef-producing 
State,  and  we  can  certainly  make  as  good  cheese 
here  as  in  Ohio,  and  can  do  it  with  less  expense. 
Our  cows  cost  less,  and  they  net  more.  In  Ohio  it 
costs  twenty-five  dollars  a  year  to  keep  a  cow,  in 
Kansas  less  than  one-half  that.  Cheese  in  Ohio 
brings  twelve  and  a  half  cents  per  pound ;  mine 
brings  eighteen  and  a  half.  Good  cheese  can  be 
made  in  Kansas.  Dairy  farming  is  destined  to 
become  one  of  the  most  interesting  and  profitable 
branches  of  industry  in  Kansas." 


106  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

Some  one  then  asked,  "  How  much  cheese  can  you 
make  from  one  gallon  of  milk  ? "  Mr.  Long  an- 
swered, "  In  Ohio,  one  pound  from  one  gallon,  or 
ten  pounds  of  milk;  here,  one  pound  from  eight  and 
two-thirds  pounds  of  milk.  This  is  the  quantity  from 
the  common  cow ;  from  the  Alderney,  we  can  make 
more." 

Dr.  Eeynolds  asked,  "Do  cows  give  as  much  milk 
here  as  there  ?  "  Mr.  Long  thought  they  did,  full  as 
much.  "  The  buffalo  grass  produced  as  much,  and  richer 
milk,  than  the  tame  grass." 


OTTAWA   UNIVERSITY. 

Dr.  Sternberg  said,  "our  season  being  longer  we  can 
have  two  months  more  for  butter  and  cheese  making" 

Mr.  Long  was  asked  about  exporting  his  cheese, 
but  he  has  no  need  ;  he  finds  a  ready  market  for  all 
his  in  the  State.  Also  about  rennets.  He  sends  to 
Utica,  New  York,  and  gets  them  at  thirty  cents, 
when  they  will  cost  fifty  cents  if  bought  here. 

The  next  letter  is  from  Mr.  Ernst  Hohneck,  a  sur- 
veyor who  has  resided  in  "Western  Kansas  about 
fourteen  years,  and  is  entirely  familiar  with  the 


WESTERN  KANSAS  AND  THE  BUFFALO  GRASS.    107 

country  he  talks  about.  This  letter  throws  light 
upon  the  "desert"  question.  There  has  been  great 
inquiry  for  that  desert  for  several  years,  and  of  late 
it  has  come  to  be  believed  that  the  whole  account 
of  "  a  desert  "  was  a  stupendous  humbug  of  ancient 
geographers,  but  there  has  long  been  talk  in  scien- 
tific quarters  about  the  "  sand  hills  of  western  Kan- 
sas," which  certainly  must  have  had  some  foundation 
in  fact.  I  have  occasionally  met  a  man  who  had 
seen  them,  but  could  get  no  precise  information  as 
to  their  location  until  the  following  letter  came  to 
hand.  After  describing  .various  counties  in  that 
region,  and  showing  that  all  are  possessed  of  good 
water  and  good  soil,  with  considerable  quantities  of 
timber,  and  coal  opened  of  fair  quality  for  fuel,  he 
proceeds : 

"  Eice  county,  south  of  Ellsworth,  through  which 
runs  the  Arkansas  Eiver  and  several  tributaries,  is, 
with  the  exception  of  timber,  which  is  rather  scarce, 
a  most  beautiful  county,  and  contains,  I  believe,  a 
greater  per  centage  of  tillable  land,  than  any  other 
county  in  the  State  I  know  of.  The  southeast  part 
is  already  somewhat  settled,  and  a  colony  from  Ohio 
is  expected  to  settle  on  Plum  Creek  next  spring. 
Cow  Creek  is  also  in  this  county.  Around  Fort 
Zarah,  in  Barton  county,  near  the  mouth  of  that 
fine  stream  where  the  Big  Walnut  empties  into  the 
Arkansas,  the  nucleus  of  quite  a  settlement  is  now 
forming,  and  about  two  hundred  families  are  to  settle 
along  the  Eiver  and  Walnut  next  spring.  The  ad- 
vance of  a  German  colony,  about  ten  families,  set- 
tled eight  miles  above  Zarah  last. spring,  and  raised 
quite  a  crop  of  corn,  with  pumpkins,  melons,  etc., 
without  end.  I  have  not  a  doubt  but  that  the  bot- 
toms of  the  Arkansas  Eiver,  will  turn  out  to  be  pro- 
digious corn  land. 

"  Walnut  Creek  Valley  runs  in  a  westerly  direction 
for  over  a  hundred  miles,  with  abundance  of  timber 


108  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

and  water,  and  as  fine  bottoms  as  a  man  wants  to 
see.  The  only  drawback  to  the  settlement  of  that 
part  of  our  beautiful  State,  may  be  Indian  difficulties. 

"  In  conclusion,  let  me  give  you  the  result  of  my 
observations  during  a  residence  of  fifteen  years  in 
the  State,  the  greater  part  of  which  I  spent  in  the 
western  part. 

"  The  story  of  the  American  Desert,  as  far  as  it 
relates  to  that  portion  of  Kansas  that  lays  north  of 
the  Arkansas  .River,  is  a  myth,  and  never  had  any 
foundation.  That  "belt  of  land,"  beyond  which, 
according  to  early  histories  of  Kansas,  the  Desert 
commenced,  exists  only  in  imagination.  True,  there 
is  a  range  of  sandhills,  from  one  to  two  miles  wide, 
on  the  west  side  of  the  Little  Arkansas,  as  far  north 
as  the  mouth  of  Jarvis  Creek,  emptying  into  Cow 
Creek,  and  also  another  narrow  range  of  sandhills 
on  the  west  side  of  Cow  Creek,  from  the  Plum 
Butes,  on  the  old  Santa  Fe  Road,  extending,  with 
intermissions,  about  ten  miles  north.  But  the  land 
west  of  these  hills  is  just  as  good  as  east  of  it. 

"  I  suppose  the  idea  of  this  desert  originated  in  this 
way:  During  that  season  when  the  buffalo  roam 
north  in  immense  numbers,  they  eat  the  whole 
country  so  closely  that  it  looks  to  the  casual  observer 
entirely  bare,  and  devoid  of  vegetation,  Buffalo 
and  even  horses,  will  find  'sustenance  on  this  very 
ground,  it  being  the  nature  of  the  buffalo  grass  to  be 
continually  growing,  and  the  part  next  to  the 
ground,  almost  in  it,  being  the  most  nutritous  part, 
and  very  sweet ;  horses,  which  are  used  to  the  plains, 
will  graze  on  this  tery  ground,  when  loose,  in  pref- 
erence to  places,  where  the  grass  has  not  been 
pastured.  Another  peculiarity  of  the  buffalo  grass 
is,  that  it  only  grows  in  packed  ground,  and  dies  out 
as  soon  as  the  buffalo  quits  the  country,  and  the 
action  of  the  rains  and  frosts  loosens  the  soil.  After 
thje  buffalo  have  left  a  portion  of  the  country  for 


WESTERN  KANSAS  AND  THE  BUFFALO  GRASS;   109 

good,  in  a  few  years  single  stools  of  blue  stem  grass 
will  appear,  which  increase  in  size  from  year  to  year, 
until  the  whole  country,  which  grew  once  the  short 
buffalo  grass,  is  covered  with  blue  stem,  and  then 
has  all  the  appearance  of  an  agricultural  country. 
I  have  watched  this  transformation  ever  since  1855, 
and  it  is  a  fact  and  no  theory.  Thousands  of  tons 
of  prairie  hay  can  be  cut  now,  where  ten  years  ago 
nothing  but  buffalo  grass  grew.  ^Whoever  opens  a 
farm  in  a  buffalo  grass  region,  needs  to  plow  his 
land  deep,  from  six  tn  eight  inches  at  least,  so  as  to 
prepare  it  at  once  for  crops.  And  all  this  great 
region  in  the  western  part  of  the  State,  will  be  thus 
transformed  shortly,  and  will  be  found  to  be  the 
granary  of  the  west." 

Upon  receipt  of  this  valuable  letter  I  wrote  to  the 
author  requesting  him  to  explain  why  he  confined 
his  remarks  to  the  region  north  of  the  Arkansas 
.River,  in  showing  that  the  country  was  generally 
good,  and  that  a  few  square  miles  of  sand  hills  had 
been  magnified  into  a  boundless  "desert."  In- reply 
the  following  letter  came  to  hand  : 

"  When  I  spoke  rather  negatively  of  the  country 
south  of  Arkansas  river,  I  had  in  my  mind  a  pear 
shaped  tract  of  land,  with  its  stem  end  near  Fort 
Dodge,  and  the  opposite  about  south  of  the  mouth 
of  Cow  creek,  which  empties  into  the  Arkansas  in 
Eice  county,  with  a  width  at  its  broadest  part  (south 
of  Pawnee  Eock,  seventeen  miles  west  of  Zarah)  of 
about  sixty  miles,  which  consists  of  a  series  of  sand- 
hills, naked  sandy  flats,  and  bunch  grass  prairie. 
This  part  is  entirely  destitue  of  timber,  but  in  most 
parts  well  watered,  and  having  considerable  salt 
water  branches  running  through  it. 

"The  Arkansas  river  is  also,  with  the  exception  of 
a  strip  of  about  fourteen  miles  running  east  from 
Fort  Zarah,  destitute  of  timber  from  below  the 
mouth  of  Cow  creek  to  the  west  line  of  the  State, 


WESTERN  KANSAS  AND  THE  BUFFALO  GRASS.  Ill 

and  beyond  to  near  Fort  Lyon.  The  Atchison,  To- 
peka  &  Santa  Fe  Eailroad  has  be*en  surveyed  and 
located  to  Fort  Dodge,  which  will  open  these  wide 
and  fertile  bottoms  to  settlement.  The  sandy  dis- 
trict, however,  spoken  of  above,  will  be  a  great  graz- 
ing country,  as  the  grass  on  it  is  very  nutritious, 
and  the  configuration  of  the  country  affording  a 
great  deal  of  shelter  to  stock  in  the  winter.  South 
of  this  district  lays  a  beautiful  country,  along  the 
tributaries  of  the  little  Red  river,  or  Red  Fork  of 
the  Arkansas.  Mulberry,  Turkey,  Medicine  Lodge, 
Bluff  creek,  etc.,  are  among  these  creeks.  The  soil 
is  here  red  in  all  its  shades,  and  every  little  thaw  or 
rain,  will  color  the  streams  red. 

"  Two  years  ago  this  winter,  I  found  the  bottoms 
covered  with  the  tallest  blue  stem  grass.  A  great 
deal  of  winter  grass,  which  we  generally  call  June 
grass,  grows  also  here.  The  country  is  also  timbered 
with  Cottonwood,  Cedar  in  great  quantity  on  the 
bluffs,  Mulberry,  Elm,  Walnut,  Oak,  Hackberry,  and 
on  the  South  Fork,  with  China  tree.  I  found  bodies 
of  timber  containing  from  forty  to  eighty  acres. 
Rock  is  very  scarce  here;  the  deepest  canyon,  as 
well  as  the  highest  bluffs,  are  devoid  of  it.  In  my 
opinion,  it  will  not  be  very  long  before  this  country 
will  be  the  great  winter  quarters  of  the  stock  men 
of  Western  Kansas.  As  for  shelter,  there  is  nothing 
that  will  surpass  it  in  these  parts. 

"  Since  my  last,  I  learned  that  about  fifty  claims  are 
taken  on  Walnut  creek,  and  the  Arkansas,  in  the 
vicinity  of  Fort  Zarah.  So  the  Star  of  Empire  is 
moving  westward  at  a  lively  rate.  It  is  some  satis- 
faction to  contemplate,  that  in  fifteen  years  civiliza- 
tion has  conquered  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  of* 
wilderness. 

Yours  truly, 

ERNST  HOHNECK." 


112  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

Here  is  the  new  geography  at  last.  Here  is  the  "  G. 
A.  D."  reduced  iif  its  extent  to  a  small  area,  and  then, 
still  worse  for  the  fictions  of  the  past,  even  this  sand 
hill  district  "will  be  a  great  grazing  country,  as  the  grass 
on  it  is  very  nutritious,  and  the  configuration  of  the  coun- 
try affords  a  great  deal  of  shelter  to  stock  in  the  winter" 

At  last  we  have  "  corralled  "  the  "  Great  Amer- 
ican Desert,"  and  we  find  it  to  be  a  well  watered, 
pear  shaped  pasture  field,  good  for  summer  and 
especially  excellent  for  winter  grazing. 

Others  whom  I  have  lately  seen,  who  have  been 
through  this  region,  assure  me  that  it  greatly 
abounds  in  wild  fruits — berries  of  different  kinds, 
and  several  varieties  of  large  and  luscious  plums  and 
grapes.  The  sand  hills  north  of  the  Arkansas,  de- 
scribed by  Mr.  Hohneck,  also  produce  an  abundance 
of  wild  fruit  and  small  scrub  oaks. 

And  yet  it  is  easy  to  see  how  this  fiction  went 
abroad.  All  the  sand  hills  spoken  of  by  Mr.  Hoh- 
neck, lie  in  the  path  of  the  old  Santa  Fe  wagon 
road  over  which  ten  years  ago  two  or  three  million 
dollars  worth  of  goods  were  annually  carried  in, 
wagons,  and  over  which  a  stage  coach  ran.  This 
road  has  been  traveled  for  many  years.  Thirty 
years  ago,  teams  from  Chihuahua,  in  Mexico,  hauled 
goods  to  that  place,  by  this  route,  from  St.  Louis. 
Of  course  there  was  truth  enough  in  the  sandy  part 
of  the  story,  to  account  for  the  errors  of  the  miser- 
able geographers.  It  is  also  true  that  as  we  near 
the  base  of  the  Eocky  Mountains  we  enter  upon  a 
country  covered  with  what  seems  to  be  a  bed  of 
sand  and  coarse  gravel.  At  what  point  one  leaves 
the  soil  of  Western  Kansas  and  enters  the  sandy 
Tegions  of  Colorado,  I  am  unable  to  say,  having  only 
passed  over  ihe  country  in  the  night,  by  railroad. 
It  is  probable,  however,  that  the  transition  is  a 
gradual  one, '  the  finer  portions  of  the  sand  and 
soil  from  the  mountain  bases  having  been  washed 


WESTERN  KANSAS  AND  THE  BUFFALO  GRASS. 

'down  toward  the  Missouri  Elver.  Even  this  sand  of 
Colorado,  however,  is  covered  with  our  never-failing 
buffalo  grass,  and  in  the  poorest  localities,  where 
this  is  partially  crowded  out  by  the  Cactus,  heavy 
crops  are  always  grown  by  irrigation.  Mr.  Hohneck 
further  explains  the  barren  appearance  of  the  plains 
by  showing  how  the  buffalo  eats  the  grass  down  close 
to  the  ground.  The  sweetness  of  the  lower  stalk  of 
this  grass  is  apparent  to  the  taste  of  one  who  chews 
it.  The  little  wild  prairie  dogs  live  chiefly  on  the 
lower  stalks  and  roots  of  the  buffalo  grass,  and 
when  they  have  pulled  it  all  in  one  locality,  they 
move  their  village  to  fresher  fields.  It  is  believed  by 
frontiersmen  that  wherever  prairie  dogs  establish 
their  habitations,  water  may  be  found  at  a  moderate 
depth  by  digging.  The  theory  is  reasonable,  and  is 
probably  not  less  true  than  the  infallible  test  on 
more  eastern  prairies,  by  which  a  crawfish  hole  may 
always  be  followed  to  never  failing  water. 

In  the  first  letter  of  Mr.  Hohneck,  an  important 
'suggestion  is  made  about  plowing  these  lands  deep, 
the  deeper  the  better.  It  is  not  simply  that  the 
rains  may  be  caught  and  retained  in  a  deep  bed  of 
soil,  and  that  lootlets  may  find  nutriment  deep  in 
the  moist  earth,  when  they  would  dry  out  in  a  shal- 
low soil,  but  the  action  of  the  atmosphere,  and  of 
frost,  is  desirable  to  bring  this  hard  earth  into  a 
proper  condition  for  producing  crops.  Hot  that.the 
earth  is  difficult  to  plow,  or  stiff  and  heavy  like  a 
clay  soil,  but  it  has  been  beaten  by  the  storms  of 
centuries,  and  trodden  under  foot  by  millions  of 
buffalo,  until  it  is  so  compact  that  air  cannot  enter 
it,  and  rain  can  hardly  penetrate  its  surface. 

Among  the  most  important  objects  accomplished 
by  the  plowing  of  any  soil,  is  the  exposure  of  its 
particles  to  the  air,  in  order  that  certain  chemical 
changes  may  take  place,  which  induce  the  growth 


114  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

of  vegetation.  Especially  do  these  soils  of  Western 
Kansas  need  to  be  plowed  deep,  that  they  may  have 
the  benefit  of  this  ameliorating  process.  Here  the 
STEAM  PLOW  is  eventually  to  win  its  triumphs.  On 
those  broad  fields,  free  from  sloughs  and  miry  places, 
there  are  possibilities  open  to  inventors  and  large 
farmers  in  this  direction,  which  are  forbidden  by  the 
small  lots,  or  stony  land,  or  heavy  clay  soil,  or  deep 
mud,  of  eastern  farms,  or  of  other  prairie  States. 

THE    CATTLE    BUSINESS. 

.  The  New  York  Tribune,  of  January  63  1871,  says: 
"  The  belt  of  beef  supply  is  receding  year  by  year. 
In  1866  only  44  head  of  Texas  cattle  reached  this 
market.  The  chief  supplies  of  beef 

already  come  from  regions  west  of  the  Wabash,  and 
south  of  the  Ohio.  If  this  is  true  of  1870,  what 
may  be  expected  in  1875,  or  even  1873  ? 
Evidently  it  is  of  no  avail  for  the  farmer  east  of  the 
Wabash  to  contend  with  those  vast  plains,  covered 
with  the  most  nutritious  grasses.  The  herdsman 
there  can  produce  a  three-year-old  steer  that  will 
dress  550  pounds,  as  cheaply  as  the  former  can  fat- 
ten a  spring  pig." 

It  is  easy  to  see  why  the  cattle  business  cannot  so 
readily  be  overdone  as  most  other  kinds  of  business. 
By  the  employment  of  sufficient  capital  and  labor, 
manufacturers  may  in  a  few  months,  flood  the  mar- 
ket with  goods  and  ruin  the  business.  The  necessi- 
ties or  fashions  of  the  day  may  also  change,  and  fail 
the  manufacturer.  The  farmers  of  the  country  are 
only  limited  in  the  amount  of  grain  they  raise,  by 
the  labor  they  choose  to  employ  in  seed  time  and 
harvest,  and  for  this  reason,  in  connection  with  the 
uncertainties  of  the  weather,  grain  raisers  in  all 

Earts  of  the  world  are  liable  to  extreme  fluctuations 
a  the  price  of  their  products. 


THE   CATTLE   BUSINESS. 


115 


But  it  is  evident  that  the  supply  of  beef  cattle 
is  limited  by  the  natural  increase,  and  it  is  also  evi- 
dent that  it  will  not  soon  become  unfashionable  to 
eat  beef.  Therefore  it  is  that  everywhere  the  cattle 
business  is  among  the  most  secure  and  certain  of  all 
occupations.  But  it  needs  no  argument  to  show 
that  a  region  abounding  in  such  grasses,  as  we  have 
described,  with  a  plentiful  supply  of  stock  water,  in 
a  healthy  climate,  and  in  a  region  traversed  by 


BLOCK    IN    HUMBOLDT. 

railroads,  furnishing  competition  in  freights,  must 
distance  all  competitors  in  its  attractions  for  stock  rais- 
ers or  dealers. 

The  business  in  Kansas  is  already  immense. 
There  were  during  the  year  1870,  about  200,000  bead 
of  cattle  shipped  out  of  Kansas,  of  which  number 
about  150,000  consisted  of  Texas  cattle,  part  of 
which  were  direct  from  Texas,  while  the  remainder 
had  been  herded  a  few  months  in  this  State.  Esti- 
mating 150,000  Texas  cattle  all  around,  at  $30  per 
head,  including  those  wintered  here,  and  we  have 


116  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

a  sum  of  $4,500,000.  The  native  stock  averaged 
$50  per  head,  making  for  50,000  head  $2,500,000,  or 
a  gross  total  of  $7,000,OCO,  which  is  probably  as  close 
an  approximation  as  can  be  made  of  the  business. 

Texas  cattle  are  descended  from  the  Spanish  cattle 
brought  to  America  by  the  conquerors  of  Mexico, 
and  the  characteristics  of  the  original  stock  have 
been  hightened  by  their  treatment  and  the  climate 
in  which  they  have  been  raised.  No  attempt  is  ever 
made  to  improve  the  stock  by  selecting  breeders,  and 
about  the  only  attention  a  herd  receives,  is  to  brand 
the  calves  when  young.  They  range  at  pleasure, 
summer  and  winter,  in  immense  herds,  and  aro  only, 
driven  together  by  the  swiftest  horsemen  or  caught 
with  the  lasso.  None,  or  very  few,  of  the  cows  are 
reserved  for  milk,  arid  no  calves  killed,  and  the 
increase  of  the  herds  is  therefore  much  more  rapid 
than  in  those  countries  where  a  large  share  of 
calves  go  to  the  butcher,  or  are  killed  before  they  are 
.old  enough  for  veal. 

People  sometimes  talk  of  "Cherokee"  cattle,  and 
u  Wichita  mountain "  cattle,  and  either  confound 
them  with  Texas  cattle,  or  class  them  as  a  distinct 
breed.  They  are  cattle  descended  from  the  Texas 
stock,  but  bave  been  crossed  with  northern  stock, 
which  before  the  war  was  driven  extensively  into  the 
Indian  Territory — called  from  its  principal  tribe,  the 
"Cherokee  country."  These  crosses  show  all  grades 
of  stock,  and  at  once  show  how  easy  it  is  to  improve 
the  original  long  horned,  long  legged,  gaunt,  race- 
jborse  breed  of  Texas  cattle.  It  is  becoming  a  very 
popular  practice  in  Kansas,  particularly  on  the  west- 
ern and  southern  frontier,  to  purchase  a  herd  of  one 
or  two-year  old  Texas  heifers,  paying  therefor  from 
five  to  eight  dollars  per  head,  and  cross  them  with 
the  best  bull  the  breeder  can  purchase.  With  a 
thorough  bred  or  full  blood  short  horn  sire,  the  first 
cross  is  decidedly  better  than,  the  common  American 


THE    CATTLE   BUSINESS.  117 

stock.  I  will  not  stop  to  figure  out  the  profits  result- 
ing from  this  business,  with  the  advantages  here 
presented. 

The  original  Texas  stock  improves  in  this  country 
— they  broaden  out  and  take  on  more  flesh.  This  is 
undoubtedly  owing  to  the  climate,  which  is  much 
more  vigorous  and  bracing  than  their  native  plains. 
Yet,  notwithstanding  all  that  I  have  said,  and  much 
more  of  the  same  favorable  sort,  is  true,  there  is  a 
strong  prejudice  against  Texas  cattle,  but  uniformly, 
so  far  as  I  have  observed,  men  who  have  dealt  in 
this  stock  to  any  extent,  and  all  who  have  bred  from 
it,  are  favorably  inclined  toward  it.  At  the  same 
time  nearly  all  are  agreed  that  if  a  man  have  the 
means  to  buy  all  the  cows  he  wishes  to  commence 
the  business  with,  it  is  better  to  buy  the  best  stock 
he  can  get,  and  then  improve  it  as  rapidly  as  pos- 
sible. 

Last  fall,  I  met  in  Colorado  John  B.  Chisum,  of 
Fort  Concho,  Texas.  Mr.  Chisum  is  one  of  those 
companionable  frontiersmen  who  has  the  best  in- 
stincts of  a  gentleman,  and  yet  prefers  to  broil  his 
slice  of  beef  on  a  stick  before  a  camp  fire,  and  wrap 
himself  in  a  blanket  on  the  open  prairie  with  his 
saddle  for  a  pillow,  and  all  out  doors  for  a  bed  room, 
rather  than  board  at  the  Fifth  Avenue  Hotel.  Now 
Chisum  told  me  all  about  the  "  Texas  cattle  fever," 
and  this  is  the  story : 

In  their  native  condition  the  cattle  range  to  please 
themselves.  They  get  up  and  lie  down ;  graze  early 
and  late ;  go  to  a  salt  lick  for  salt,  or  drink  fresh 
water  at  pleasure,  or  if  their  appetite  inclines,  can 
browse  on  buds  and  bushes.  By  this  life,  they  keep 
healthy  and  hearty  and  under  such  circumstances 
never  have  Texas  fever,  Spanish  fever  or  any  other 
fever  or  contageous  disease.  But  in  an  evil  hour  for 
them,  the  owner  decides  to  drive  them  north.  A 
corrall  or  rail  pen  is  built  of  great  strength,  but  only 


118 

large  enough  to  hold  the  herd  that  is  to  be  driven. 
Boys  and  men,  mounted  on  swift  horses,  and  armed 
with  terrible  whips,  which  in  their  hands  crack  like 
pistols,  collect  the  trembling  beasts,  and  holding 
them  on  a  close  range  by  day,  pen  them  in  the 
yard  every  night.  From  one  to  three  months  is 
occupied  by  this  process,  according  to  the  size  of 
the  drove,  or  the  means  at  the  command  of  the 
drover.  The  owner  of  the  drove  is  probably  with 
it  very  little,  or  if  with  it  he  is  probably  indifferent 
as  to  its  necessities.  The  result  is,  that  during  the 
time  of  preparing  to  move  the  drove  north,  it  is 
confined  on  a  limited  range,  watered  at  irregular 
times,  entirely  deprived  of  salt,  at  night  confined  in 
the  close  pen,  which  often  is  deep  with  mud,  and 
generally  the  poor  creatures  are  kept  in  a  constant 
state  of"  excitement  and  privation,  totally  unlike 
their  former  free  and  easy  life. 

By  the  time  they  are  started  on  their  journey 
they  are  falling  off  in  flesh,  and  the  drover  hurries 
them  forward  with  rapid  marches,  to  get  into 
market  before  they  become  too  poor  to  sell.  They 
go  in  droves  of  from  1,000  to  10,000  head,  and  upon 
the  average  one  man  in  the  saddle  is  required  to 
each  hundred  head  of  cattle.  On  the  "cattle  trail," 
as  the  lines  of  travel  are  called,  they  have  short 
feeding  times,  and  close  herding,  and  get  no  salt 
unless  they  cross  a  salt  lick,  (spots  of  earth,  where 
salt  water  oozes  out  and  is  evaporated,  leaving  salt 
upon  the  surface,  to  which  all  herbivorous  animals 
resort,  whether  wild  or  tame,  and  with  their  tongues 
lick  up  the  salt.)  They  often  pass  over  considerable 
distances  without  water,  and  traveling  in  hot 
weather,  and  amid  the  dust  raised  by  themselves, 
they  become  extrernety  thirsty,  and  upon  approach- 
ing the  narrow  ford  at  which  a  stream  is  crossed, 
they  rush  in  headlong  haste  to  reach  the  water.  At 
narrow  streams  the  crowding  of  those  in  the  rear 


THE   CATTLE   BUSINESS.  119 

sends  the  foremost  out  without  a  full  drink,  and  the 
reckless,  hasty  drivers  add  to  the  general  hurry  and 
excitement. 

The  consequence  of  all  this  is,  that  the  -drove 
becomes  feverish  and  diseased.  Mr.  Chisum  says  he 
can  tell  whether  a  drove  is  healthy  or  not,  the  mo- 
ment he  goes  among  them,  not  only  by  their  general 
appearance,  but  especially  by  a  peculiar  smell  emitted 
by  those  which  have  the  Texas  fever.  He  says  he 
never  had  this  (Jisease  in  any  drove  he  handled, 
because  he  took  proper  care  of  them,  and  the  disease 
was  never  communicated,  by  one  of  his  droves  to 
any  other  cattle,  and  he  has  taken  many  Texas 
cattle  among  northern  cattle  during  the  worst  sea- 
son of  the  year. 

It  is  a  peculiarity  of  this  disease,  that  the  cattle 
among  which  it  originates  do  not  die,  but  only  those 
northern  cattle  with  which  they  come  in  contact. 
It  is  also  true  that  Texas  cattle,  after  being  wintered 
•in  this  or  any  other  northern  region,  are  as  liable  to 
die  with  the  Texas  fever,  if  afterward  exposed  to  it, 
as  "our  finest  northern  stock.  Cattle  die  with  this 
disease,  which  have  not  been  among  the  diseased 
Texas  cattle,  but  only  ranged  upon  ground  and 
drank  from  water  lately  frequented  by  a  diseased 
Texas  drove.  Cold  weather  destroys  the  influence 
of  the  disease  and  it  is  not  communicated  after 
heavy  frosts  come,  and  therefore  the  laws  of  Kansas 
do  not  permit  Texas  cattle  to  be  driven  into  this 
State  during  the  period  between  the  first  day  of 
March  and  the  first  day  of  December  of  each  year, 
and  at  no  time  are  they  permitted  to  be  driven  east 
of  the  6th  principal  meridian,  but  they  may  be 
shipped  through  the  State  on  railroads  at  any  time. 

Texas  cattle  are  largely  bought  in  the  fall  and 
kept  through  the  winter,  and  until  they  fatten  on 
the  grasses  of  the  succeeding  summer,  when  they 
are  in  fine  condition  for  beef.  Those  who  have  only 


120  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 


Been  thig  #tock  immediately  after  its  arrival  from 
Texas,  by  the  mode  of  driving  that  our  friend 
Chisum  describes,  really  K^PW  nothing  about  its 
quality.  The  remark  of  a  blind  man  to  whom  a 
friend  was  boasting  of  a  fine  horse,  is  also  applica- 
ble to  these  cattle"  "Is  your  horse  fat?"  "  Yes." 
"  Then  of  course  he  looks  well." 

I  quote  from  volume  seven,  Transactions  of  Illinois 
State  Agricultural  Society  : 

"  Butchers  tell  us  that  Texas  cattle  are  better  for 
packing  than  ordinary  western  cattle,  the  meat 
being  finer  grained,  richer,  and  more  tender  than 
the  rough,  coarse  stock  hitherto  shipped  from  the 
west.  As  a  matter  of  profit  they  are  considerably 
ahead  of  native  cattle.  The  hides  are  worth  from 
fifteen  to  twenty  per  cent  more,  and  the  yield  „  of 
tallow  is  far  larger." 

Some  of  the  fattest  cattle  ever  killed  in  this  State 
were  corn  fed  Texas  steers,  but  they  were  brought 
here  when  young,  and  had  wintered  here  two  of 
three  seasons,  and  become  accustomed  to  our  climate 
and  grasses,  and  to  eating  corn. 

Mr.  Andrew  Wilson,  of  Topeka,  is  one  of  our 
most  successful  dealers  in  Texas  cattle,  and  he  has 
kindly  furnished  me  with  many  items  about  the  . 
business.  He  buys  four  and  five  year  old  steers  in 
the  fall,  at  about  $22.50  per  head,  averaging  900 
pounds.  In  winter  he  has  kept  about  300  head 
together,  and  in  summer,  1000  to  2000  head.  Sum- 
mer and  winter  he  provides  one  man  and  horse  for 
every  hundred  head.  It  is  very  important  to  salt 
freely  and  let  the  stock  have  constant  access  to 
water.  Heretofore  he  has  wintered  in  Eastern  Kan- 
sas, on  prairie  hay  and  corn  stalks  in  the  field,  (the 
latter  being  the  best)  and  a  few  bushels  of  corn  per 
head.  Hereafter  he  intends  to  graze  his  Texas 
cattle  the  year  round  in  Western  Kansas.  Last 
winter  he  kept  3000  head  and  sold  in  September  for 


THE   CATTLE   BUSINESS.  121 

$4.25  per  hundred,  gross  weight,  the  average  being 
1312  pounds  (excepting  350  cows).  Another  party 
kept  1000  head,  bought  from  the  same  Texas  herd, 
and  sold  at  the  time  Mr.  Wilson  did,  and  only 
received  $40  per  head,  a  difference  on  1000  head  of 
$15,760.  This  loss  was  caused  solely  by  short  feed- 
ing and  lack  of  care.  Last  summer,  Mr.  Wilson's 
Texas  cattle  gained  about  406  pounds  per  head  on 
grass.  He  usually  sells  to  buyers  who  come  into 
the  country.  For  fattening  exclusively  on  grass,  he 
prefers  Texas  cattle,  but  to  feed  on  corn,  he  prefers 
native  stock.  Here  are  his  figures  : 

1000  head  good  Texas  steers  at  $20 $20,000 

Interest  upon  same  one  year,  at  10  per  cent 2,000 

Winter  care  in  Eastern  Kansas,  with  salt,  feeding,  etc,,  at  $10 10,000 

Summer  care  salt,  etc.,  at  $3 3,000 

Interest  for  six  months  on  amount  paid  for  care  and  feed,  $13,000,  at  10 

percent,  per  annum 650 

Add  3  per  cent  for  losses  of  cattle 600 

$36,250 
Average  weight  1300  pounds,  at  4  c«nts  gross,  equal  $52  per  head. 

Sales  of  970  head,  at  $52 50,440 

Deduct  total  cost  and  interest 36,250 

$14.190 

The  above  estimate  puts  all  expenses  at  the  high- 
est figures.  If  the  selling  price  falls  below  the  above, 
of  course  the  buying  price  for  the  fresh  stock  will 
decrease  proportionally.  In  grazing  through  the 
season  on  buffalo  grass,  he  estimates  the  entire  cost 
for  the  year  not  to  exceed  six  dollars  per  head,  and 
while  the  losses  will  sometimes  be  greater,  the  profit 
will  be  much  more  than  by  keeping  the  cattle  on 
hay  and  corn. 

If  a  stock  raiser  have  the  capital  he  advises  to 
buy  good  native  heifers,  but  from  his  own  observa- 
tion he  is  satisfied  that  the  first  cross  of  Texas  stock 
with  Short  Horn,  makes  a  stock  fully  equal  to  our 
common  cattle,  and  Texas  heifers,  which  have  their 
first  calves  in  this  country,  and  are  subject  to  ordi- 
nary herding,  become  gentle  and  easily  handled. 
6 


122 


HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 


Mr.  Wilson  is  a  native  of  Ohio,  and  has  lived  in 
Sangamon  county,  Illinois.  He  considers,  as  do  all 
who  are  familiar  with  it,  that  Kansas  is  the  best 
stock  State  yet  opened.  Its  unsurpassed  wild 
grasses,  and  abundant  streams,  with  gravelly  or 
rocky  bottoms,  place  it  far  ahead  of  the  best  por- 
tions of  Illinois  for  grazing  purposes.  He  has  some 
of  the  finest  stock  in  the  State,  among  which  is  the 


PUBLIC    SCHOOL,  POMONA. 

Short  Horn  bull  of  which  a  life-like  cut  is  given  else- 
where. 

Western  farmers  talk  of  stall-feeding  cattle,  when 
corn  in  the  ear  is  thrown  to  them.  They  are  also 
fed  hay  or  permitted  to  run  in  standing  cornstalks, 
from  which  the  corn  has  been  picked.  Frequently 
the  cornstalks  are  cut  and  put  before  them,  ears  and 
all.  In  either  case  it  is  desirable  that  there  be  two 
fields  or  yards,  and  fattening  hogs  are  each  day  put 
in  the  yard  occupied  by  the  cattle,  the  day  pre- 


THE   CATTLE   BUSINESS.  123 

viously.  Upon  the  farm  of  Lieut.-Governor  Elder 
in  Franklin  county,  I  found  the  husked  corn  placed 
in  troughs,  conveniently  elevated  on  legs,  and  th 
hogs  running  with  the  cattle.  He  thinks,  after  sev- 
eral years  careful  experiment,  that  he  saves  twenty- 
five  bushels  to  each  steer  by  husking  his  corn,  instead 
of  feeding  in  the  shock.  He  fattens  annually  about 
200  head,  feeding  them  all  they  will  eat  for  six 
months,  which  is  about  eighty  bushels  of  corn  each. 
Hay  or  corn  fodder  is  also  given.  Corn  is  placed  in 
the  troughs  twice  a  day,  and  all  feeding  is  done  with 
the  strictest  regularity.  Feeding  twenty  to  forty 
bushels  to  a  steer,  he  deems,  as  do  all  experienced 
feeders,  almost  a  waste,  as  they  are  not  made  good 
beef,  and  will  not  do  any  better  on  grass  the  next 
summer  than  cattle  which  have  had  but  two  or  three 
bushels  given  them  the  last  month  of  feeding  time. 

Four-year-old  native  steers  in  the  fall  are  worth 
3£  to  4  cents  gross,  weighing  1,300  to  1,400  pounds. 
They  gain  by  six  months  feeding  about  250  pounds, 
and  sell  for  6£  to  7  cents  gross,  in  the  spring  when 
grass-fed  cattle  are  not  in  the  market.  An  equal 
number  of  hogs  are  put  with  the  cattle,  to  take  their 
waste  and  leavings,  and  the  net  profit  on  each  hog  is 
ten  dollars.  By  this  method  his  corn  nets  him  above 
interest  on  capital  invested,  from  80  cents  to  $1.00 
per  bushel.  The  only  shelter  his  fat  cattle  have 
from  the  wind,  is  a  gentle  bluff,  upon  the  south  side 
of  which  is  his  feeding  ground. 

I  give  below  the  annual  average  prices  of  beef 
cattle  for  six  years,  at  the  cattle  market,  Chicago, 
Illinois,  taken  from  the  report  of  the  United  States 
Commissioner  of  Agriculture,  Hon.  Horace  Capron. 
The  prices  are  per  hundred  pounds  gross  weight. 
It  should  be  noted  that  the  great  range  of  prices  for 
each  year,  results  chiefly  from  the  difference  in  qual- 
ity of  cattle.  It  is  always  bad  management  to  send 
poor  cattle  to  market : 


124  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 


Prices  of  beef  cattle  in  Chicago,  Illinois,  per  hundred, 
gross  weight. 

1864 $2.56  to  $5.72      1867 $3.52  to  8.02 

1865 2.94  to  8.46      1868 3.41  to  8.10 

1866 3.53  to  7.72      1869 3.79  to  7.66 

Average  price  for  six  years,  $3.24  to  $7.61.  The 
average  expense  of  shipment  per  head,  from  the  Mis- 
souri Kiver  to  Chicago,  is  about  five  dollars. 

Arrangements  have  been  perfected  by  which  it  is 
expected  to  send  fresh  beef  and  buffalo  to  New  York 
and  other  eastern  cities  from  Kansas,  during  this 
summer,  in  Eankin's  Patent  .Refrigerator  cars,  an 
invention  of  one  of  our  citizens,  Mr.  T.  L.  Rankin, 
of  Lyndon,  Osage  county.  Experimental  trips  were 
made  last  year  with  eminent  success.  The  car  is 
nearly  air  tight,  and  contains  ice,  and  beef  in  quarters 
can  be  sent  in  perfect  order,  at  less  rates  than  when 
shipped  alive,  as  thirty  head  can  be  carried,  while 
but  eighteen  live  bullocks  usually  go  in  a  car.  Meat 
was  carried  100  hours  in  one  of  these  cars,  from 
July  25  to  August  1st,  1870,  at  a  temperature  of  50 
to  55  degrees.  The  walls  are  composed  of  fifteen 
separate  and  tight  partitions,  made  of  wood  and 
paper,  with  spaces  between. 

The  Hearth  and  Home,  of  New  York  City,  for 
February  4,  1871,  contains  an  illustrated  article  upon 
this  subject,  showing  that  our  exhaustless  meat 
supply  is  to  be  carried  to  the  door  of  our  eastern 
fnends. 

A  new  class  of  stock  cars  are  also  put  on  to  rail- 
roads this  year  for  the  first  time,  called  Steel's 
palace  stock  cars.  In  these  cars,  cattle  are  watered 
and  fed  while  in  transit,  and  the  time  to  New  York 
or  any  other  distant  point  is  less  than  half  that 
required  under  the  old  system  of  transporting  live 
stock. 

The  foundations  are  being  laid  for  giving  Kansas 


THE   SHEEP   BUSINESS.  125 

a  reputation,  as  to  the  quality  of  its  stock,  equaled 
only  by  the  profit  with  which  it  is  reared. 

Many  very  fine  breeding  animals  have  been  brought 
to  this  State  at  great  expense  to  their  owners. 
Among  those  who  have  considerable  herds  of  thor- 
ough-bred and  full  blood  Short  Horn  cattle,  are  Judge 
N.  L.  Chaffe  &  Sons,  Manhattan ;  Andrew  Wilson, 
Topeka ;  John  Inlow,  Olathe ;  I.  N.  Insley,  Oska- 
loosa;  Wm.  S.  Pickrell,  Ottawa;  Mr.  Moler,  of 
Anderson  county.  Among  those  with  thorough- 
bred or  full  blood  Jersey  cattle,  are,  I.  S.  Kalloch, 
Lawrence;  E.  A.  Smith,  Lawrence;  Eev.  Winfield 
Scott,  Leavenworth,  and  others.  Hon.  S.  C.  Pome- 
roy,  United  States  Senator,  also  has  upon  his  farm 
at  Muscotah,  some  thorough-bred  Holstein  cattle, 
which  are  famous  for  combining  the  qualities  of 
good  milkers,  docility,  size,  and  a  readiness  to  take 
on  fat. 

All  those  gentlemen  mentioned  above,  and  many 
others,  have  fine  herds  of  swine,  including  fine  stock 
of  all  the  best  breeds ;  Berkshire,  Essex,  Poland 
China,  Suffolks,  Chester  White,  etc.  Alfred  Gray, 
Secretary  of  Kansas  State  Agricultural  Society,  has 
upon  his  farm  at  Wyandotte,  probably  the  finest  lot 
of  Berkshires  in  the  west.  He  has  visited  all  the 
breeders  of  note  in  the  United  States  and  the  Cana- 
das,  and  has  purchased  the  best  animals  he  could  find. 
He  has  made  this  business  a  speciality  for  several 
years,  with  eminent  success. 

THE    SHEEP   BUSINESS. 

Perhaps  there  is  no  branch  of  ordinary  husbandry 
at  which  one  should  serve  a  longer  apprenticeship 
before  euteriLg  upon  it  for  himself,  than  the  raising, 
of  sheep.  Sheep  must  have  care  and  attention  to 
thrive  anywhere,  and  it  is  not  advisable  for  men, 
or  for  boys  as  has  often  been  the  case  in  Kansas, 


THE   SHEEP   BUSINESS.  127 

who   are  utterly  ignorant   of  the  business  to  com- 
mence it  with  a  large  flock. 

The  cattle  business  is  so  easily  learned,  gives  so 
little  trouble,  and  is  so  safe  and  profitable,  that 
nearly  all  who  have  any  inclination  to  the  stock 
business,  seek  herds  of  cattle  rather  than  flocks  of 
sheep,  but  there  are  many  million  head  of  sheep  in 
Ohio  and  States  west  of  it,  that  must  in  some  way 
be  handled  by  their  owners,  who  are  greatly  dispiri- 
ted by  the  low  price  of  wool.  Such  flocks  should 
be  driven  to  Kansas.  There  are  also  multitudes 
who  own  poor  or  profitless  farms  in  those  States, 
who  understand  the  sheep  business,  and  could  easily 
and  profitably  convert  their  farms  into  sheep  and 
bring  their  sheep  here  to  be  converted  into  cash, 
not  by  selling,  but  by  keeping.  For  the  benefit  of 
these,  and  other  interested  people,  let  us  glance  at 
the  sheep  business  in  Kansas. 

The  pasturage  is  boundless  and  it  is  good.  If 
left  to  themselves  sheep  will  keep  the  grass  down  in 
certain  places  by  close  feeding.  The  short  fresh 
herbage  is  more  sweet  and  nutritious,  and  the 
ground  is  also  drier  under  their  feet  than  would  be- 
tall  grass,  from  which  the  dews  and  rains  do  not  so 
quickly  dry  out.  This  is  also  an  advantage  in  cases 
of  foot  rot.  From  this  disease  many  flocks  of  sheep 
have  been  cured  by  bringing  them  to  Kansas.  The 
climate  is  more  congenial  to  sheep  as  well  as  man, 
than  the  damp  atmosphere  of  regions  east  of  the 
Mississippi,  and  our  comparative  freedom  from  mud 
is  another  great  advantage  over  the  older  western 
States.  By  herding  sheep  on  a  moderately  close, 
rather  than  a  wide  range,  never  driving  or  hurrying 
them,  and  giving  them  a  plenty  of  water  and  salt, 
they  are  kept  during  the  summer  at  a  trifling  cost, 
and  in  good  condition. 

It  is  the  almost  universal  opinion  among  men  of 
experience,  that  sheep  do  not  do  as  well  if  fed  ex- 


128 

clusively  on  prairie  hay.  It  is  said  that  it  has  a 
constipating  effect  upon  them,  which  it  does  not 
upon  other  stock,  and  that  to  correct  this,  a  small 
feed  of  corn  should  be  given  every  day  through  the 
winter,  giving  them  hay  and  corn  as  soon  as  the 
frost  strikes  the  grass.  By  commencing  to  feed  corn 
early,  a  very  little  with  prairie  hay  will  keep  them 
in  excellent  order.  An  amount  equal  to  about  a 
half  bushel  per  head  for  the  winter,  is  considered 
sufficient  with  good  hay.  If  sheep  are  fed  upon  corn 
fodder,  as  is  frequently  and  profitably  the  case,  this 
is  deemed  sufficient.  Many  feed  sheaf  oats  instead 
of  corn,  and  think  them  even  better.  But  for  large 
profits  in  wintering  sheeprjn  Eastern  Kansas,  one 
should  have  blue  grass  pastures  or  winter  rye  for 
grazing.  With  access  to  either,  there  are  not  upon 
the  average,  two  weeks  in  the  entire  winter,  but 
that  sheep  will  keep  fat  without  other  feed.  All 
sheep  do  better  to  be  protected  from  the  occasional 
winter  rains,  and  I  think  it  wrong  to  ask  people  to 
bring  their  flocks  here  without  informing  them  that 
they  will  be  well  repaid  in  money  as  well  as  in  com- 
fort of  mind,  by  providing  rough  shelter  for  their 
ewes. 

But  the  best  place  in  Kansas  for  keeping  large 
flocks  of  sheep,  yes  the  best  place  in  the  United 
States,  all  things  considered,  is  the  buffalo  grass 
region  of  Western  Kansas.  The  altitude  and  dry- 
ness  Of  the  atmosphere  and  consequent  freedom  from 
disease  in  these  regions,  the  comparative  exemption 
from  winter  rains,  the  boundless  range  upon  the 
short,  sweet  and  nutritious  grasses  which  afford 
feed  of  about  equal  value  the  year  round,  the  abun- 
dant supply  of  pure  and  palatable  water,  the  over- 
hanging .bluffs  and  ledges,  and  skirts  of  timber  a  id 
various  conveniences  for  making  a  shelter  for  the 
weak  and  helpless,  the  excellent  grass  for  hay,  of 
which  a  few  pounds  per  head  should  be  put  up  as  a 


THE  SHEEP  BUSINESS.  129 

contingent  provision  against  storms,  the  convenience 
by  railroads  for  marketing  mutton  or  wool,  and 
finally  the  fact  that  all  these  advantages  are  offered 
absolutely  without  cost,  these  inducements  ought  to 
bring  millions  of  sheep  to  Kansas  this  year.  Sheep 
do  not  need  grain  when  they  have  access  to  buffalo 

grass.     Many  flocks  are  herded  in  New  Mexico  and 
olorado  without  feed,  excepting  grass,  and  without 
shelter  except  timber  or  bluffs,  and  the  business  is 
extremely  profitable  if  taken  in  hand  by  those  who 
understand  and  like  it. 

In  that  region  two  or  three  shepherds  often  start 
off  with  their  flock  of  2,000  head,  taking  a  team, 
perhaps  of  oxen,  and  a  wagon  laden  with  provisions, 
a  tent,  and  conveniences  for  camping.  They  permit 
the  flock  to  range  pretty  much  at  pleasure,  follow- 
ing with  the  team  at  the  rate  of  one  to  five  miles 
per  day,  and  camping  when  night  overtakes  them. 
Having  several  trained  shepherd  dogs,  who  keep  on 
the  outskirts  of  the  flock,  it  is  not  much  trouble,  by 
taking  turns  on  guard,  to  keep  the  little  prairie 
wolves,  or  coyotes,  at  a  distance.  At  times  finding 
good  pasturage,  water  and  shade,  they  may  remain 
a  week  at  one  encampment.  They  keep  goats  or 
a  cow  or  two  for  milk,  while  the  flock  supplies  them 
with  fat  and  juicy  meat. 

This  romantic,  easy-going  and  vagabond  sort  of 
life,  is  followed  from  shearing  time  until  cold 
weather,  by  which  time  they  will  have  returned  to 
the  vicinity  of  their  homes.  Here  they  find  the 
grass  which  has  been  growing  all  summer,  ready 
cured  for  winter  use,  and  their  flocks  can  stay  on 
the  "home  range"  for  several  months.  There  are 
many  puny  boys  and  men,  dragging  out  a  pampered 
and  miserable  existance  in  the  east,  to  whom  a  sum- 
mer's campaign  of  this  sort  on  the  high,  rolling, 
healthy  pasture  fields  of  Western  Kansas,  would  give 
a  new  lease  of  life.  Health  for  the  feeble  and  good 


130  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

pay  for  all,   awaits  those  who  enter  the  sheep  busi- 
ness in  those  regions. 

I  speak  with  the  utmost  confidence,  when  saying 
that   Western   Kansas   offers  extraordinary   advan- 


UNIYERSALIST    CHURCH,    LAWRENCE. 

tages  for  raising  wool  or  mutton.  I  speak  with 
feeling  when  I  call  to  mind  the  fact  that  there  are 
thousands  of  wool-growers  in  the  east  who  are  upon 
the  verge  of  ruin  from  the  low  price  of  wool,  coupled 
with  the  high  price  of  land.  They  are  almost  ready 
to  give  away  their  flocks,  but  by  bringing  them  here 


THE   SHEEP  BUSINESS.  131 

they  can,  even  at  present  prices,  not  only  save  them- 
selves, but  enrich  themselves  at  the  business.  Mr. 
Jesse  Connell,  a  wealthy  farmer  near  Leavenworth 
City,  who  has  lived  upon  the  border  for  thirty  years, 
informed  me  some  years  ago,  that  with  wool  at 
twenty-five  cents  per  pound  at  Leavenworth,  he 
could  double  his  money  every  year  on  sheep,  by 
taking  them  where  there  was  free  pasturage,  and  by 
giving  them  personal  supervision. 

This  subject  is  so  important  and  is  fraught  with 
so  much  of  good  to  those  wool-growers  who  will 
heed  what  is  proven,  that  I  solicited  a  letter  upon 
the  subject  from  Dr.  Bocking,  of  Alma,  Wabaunsee 
county,  who  has  had  extensive  experience  in  many 
parts  of  the  world,  including  South  America  and 
Australia.  His  reply  is  given  as  follows : 

"Kansas  by  its  climate,  soil,  water,  and  short 
winters,  is  eminently  a  wool  growing  country,  and 
was  selected  for  a  home  by  me  four  years  ago.  My 
experience  on  sheep  in  Europe  and  in  the  Branda 
Oriental  del  Uruguay  of  South  America,  during  four 
years,  (from  1857  to  1861,)  gave  me  a  taste  for  wool- 
raising,  having  had  under  my  superintendency  on 
Mrs.  Wendelstadt's  farm,  on  the  Bio  Negro,  as  many 
as  72,000  head. 

{i  To  commence  with  the  trade,  one  has  to  decide 
himself  beforehand,  if  he  wants  to  raise  for  the 
butcher  or  for  the  improvement  of  wool,  both  being 
a  business  altogether  apart,  and  much  depending  on 
the  circumstances  given.  To  go  sure,  and  I  intend 
to  walk  that  path,  raising  for  the  carcass  is  for  the 
present  state  of  our  communications  the  most 
advisable,  and  may  afterwards,  when  a  good  founda- 
tion is  laid,  easily  be  turned  to  the  other.  If  a  man 
with  large  means  intends  to  raise  for  wool  merely, 
or  principally,  I  leave  it  open  to  him  to  select  Ne- 
grettes  or  Combwools,  as  both  will  pay  with  neces- 


132  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

sary  care ;  and  although  I  belong  to  the  old  merino 
school.  I  am  last  to  deny  the  qualities  of  a  Cotswold. 

"  The  stock  to  commence  with,  is  our  native  stock 
anyhow,  and  this  sheep  can  be  had  amply  in  Michi- 
gan, some  parts  of  Iowa,  northern  Illinois,  and  the 
very  best  in  Ohio.  Keep  out  of  Missouri  flocks,  or 
elsewhere,  where  there  is  principally  a  timber  pas- 
ture. Not  more  than  a  thousand  head  should  be 
herded  in  one  flock,  except  where  there  are  wethers 
enough  already  to  be  herded  separately  with  the 
rams  to  the  middle  of  November,  when  the  latter 
may  be  put  among  the  ewes  for  a  fortnight. 

"For  a  shepherd  not  everybody  is  n't,  the  more 
the  man  loves  his  kind  of  stock,  and  the  more  easy 
tempered  he  is,  the  better  it  will  be  for  the  owner. 
An  old  man  will  generally  do  better  than  young 
ones,  and  rather  abstain  from  the  aid  of  dogs  if  you 
are  not  convinced  of  the  phlegm  of  your  herdsman 
and  the  thorough  training  of  your  collies.  Fat 
flocks  can  not  be  attained  with  a  lad  exhausting  his 
pony  and  his  sheep  with  seedless  disturbance. 
About  the  summer  care,  much  need  not  be  told. 
Turn  the  flock  out  after  dew,  that  they  have  ample 
time  yet  to  fill  before  eleven,  then  let  them  lay  down 
to  ruminate,  and  past  the  midday  heat  herd  them 
slowly  homeward,  not  forgetting  the  water,  because 
contrary  to  the  general  opinion,  your  sheep  are  great 
drinkers.  But  starting  from  the  siesta,  (range,) 
let  the  herdsman  look  after  sleepy  lambs  that  they 
get  the  necessary  awakening.  When  the  flies  be- 
come very  troublesome,  I  find  it  better  to  stay  all 
night  on  some  lofty  spot,  rather  than  to  shut  them 
up  in  the  corrall.  In  winter,  as  sheds  are  mostly 
nothing  but  "pia  desideria,"  let  your  flock  enjoy  the 
most  protected  spot  of  timber  accessible  to  you.  Do 
not  grow  impatient  when  you  see  the'  ewes'  wool 
hanging  loose  around  their  sides  early  in  spring,  it 
is  not  yet  clipping  time.  The  lambs  should  not 


THE   SHEEP  BUSINESS.  133 

come  before  the  middle  of  April,  and  they  should  all 
be  there  at  the  first  of  May.  That  the  owner 
morning  and  evening  be  always  at  the  spot  to 
inspect  the  tail  of  his  flock  is  a  matter  of  course ; 
of  foot-rot  and  divers  complaints,  he  will  not  find 
much,  and  a  little  pine  tar  in  an  eggshell  will  gen- 
erally perform  the  cure,  but  itch  in  rainy  seasons 
he  will  find  to  beware  of.  Of  herbs  poisonous  to 
sheep,  there  is  not  a  single  one  known  to  me  in 
Kansas. 

"  Now  about  the  dollars  and  cents.  To  keep  less 
than  five  hundred  will  not  pay,  and  many  a  good 
farmer  of  my  acquaintance  -  has  become  sheep-sick 
by  a  little  flock  that  annoyed  him  by  its  intrusions 
and  daily  damages  in  summer  in  the  fields,  and  in 
winter  on  the  haystacks  and  in  the  orchard.  The 
sheep  are  to  be  herded  and  kept  under  a  careful  eye 
all  the  time.  You  cannot  turn  them  out  at  large  like 
horses  and  cattle.  But  with  eight  hundred  ewes 
(as  a  minimum)  and  thirty-two  rams,  the  business 
will  pay.  With  eight  hundred,  the  wool,  (four 
pound  a  m'ece,  and  at  an  average  price  of  twenty- two 
cents  per  pound,  at  the  nearest  railroad  depot)  will 
pay  the  expenses,  (herdsman,  hay,  shelter,  salt,  loss, 
etc.,)  and  the  lambs  will  be  your  profit,  but  with  a 
thousand  your  books  will  show  other  results,  and 
the  more  if  you  ship  your  fleece  directly  east.  My 
experimental  flock  gave  me  75  per  cent  twin  lambs, 
of  good  constitution,  and  as  we  need  not,  in  Kansas, 
kill  the  buck  lambs  for  want  of  milk  in  the  mothers' 
udders,  which  is  the  case  on  the  Rio  de  la  Platte  and 
in  Australia,  by  the  first  of  September  your  young 
ones  will  hardly  be  discernible  from  the  old  ones. 
Your  expended  capital  of  $3.00  will  bring  you  80 
cents  interest  in  wool,  which  is  equal  to  the  running 
expenses  and  customary  losses,  and  you  have  besides 
a  sure  offspring  that  will  double  your  principal  cap- 
ital every  two  years,  as  sure  as  death  and  taxes,  if 


134  HUTCHINSON-'S   KANSAS. 

ft 

you  apply  the  necessary  'care,  and  if  extraordinary 
losses  do  not  occur.  Is  there  any  other  honest  busi- 
ness that  can  beat  that?  Our  water  is  clear,  sum- 
mer care  costs  nothing,  and  hay  you  can  make  on 
Uncle  Sam's  realms  as  much  as  you  please  for  a 
dozen  years  to  come. 

"Now  good  bye.  For  the  different  breeds  and  the 
general  management,  lots  of  books  are  open,  and 
Orange,  Judd  &  Co.,  in  New  York,  will  be  happy  to 
sell  them  to  you.  All  I  want  to  add  are  my  first 
words:  Kansas  is  a  wool-growing  country,  if  there 
is  any,  and  open  to  enterprise  and  energy  for  every- 
body, who  takes  naturally  an  interest  in  animals 
and  raises  them  as  nature  teaches." 

From  T.  C.  Hill,  Esq.,  of  Americus,  Lyon  county, 
I  received  the  following  figures,  which  show  one  of 
his  transactions  in  the  sheep  business,  in  buying  a 
lot  of  poor  run  down  sheep : 

Dr.  Cr. 

600  sheep  at  $1.25:. $750       200  to  butcher  at  $3.00 $600 

Attendance  6  months  at  $40 240        Fleeces  of  350,5  Ibs,  at  28  cts 490 

Herding  4  months 125        200  lambs  at  $1.50 300 

Feedofpon-  and  dog 25        350  old  sheep  at  $2.50 ...875 

600  bushels  corn 300        50  pelts 30 

Bough  fodder 100  «  

Saltabbl.,  per  month ; 25        Total $2,295 

Interest 60        Deduct  expenses ..$1,625 

Total $1,625        Net  profit $670 

If  one  attended  his  own  flock, 

add  care  as  above $365 


$1,035 

The  remainder  of  this  flock  after  above  sales,  Mr, 
Hill  let  out  for  three  years,  he  to  receive  two  pounds 
of  wool  per  head  each  year,  and  the  original  num- 
ber to  be  returned  in  good  order,  or  failing  in  the 
latter  particular,  he  received  $2.50  per  head  for  each 
missing  sheep.  He  says,  after  an  experience  of 
twelve  years  in  Kansas,  that  one  good  man — he  em- 
ploys no  other — will  care  for  2,000  head  in  the  sum- 
mer, (being  mounted,)  and  1,000  head  in  winter. 


MULE   BREEDING.  135 

He  feeds  no  prairie  hay  after  the  middle  of  January. 
If  sheep  cannot  have  corn  stalks,  sheaf  oats,  winter 
rye  or  blue  grass,  give  them  corn  and  allow  them  to 
range  the  prairies  in  the  middle  of  the  day  for  rough 
feed. 

MULE  BREEDING. 

From  Mr.  J.  Keynolds,  of  Longton,  Howard  county, 
member  of  the  House  of  Kepresentatives  from  that 
county,  I  obtained  the  following:  It  will  require 
two  men  to  care  for  100  mares  and  one  jack.  Colts 
should  come  in  April.  The  average  loss  of  mares  by 
death,  until  they  are  fourteen  years  old,  will  not 
exceed  two  per  cent.  Loss  among  mules  next  to 
nothing.  In  the  fall  the  mules  are  separated  from 
the  mares,  and  an  old  white  mare  put  among  them 
with  a  bell  on,  who  at  once  becomes  their  leader. 
It  is  believed  that  the  older  and  more  worthless  she 
may  be  the  more  attached  do  the  mules  become. 
The  mules  of  all  ages  are  kept  together  and  it  costs 
no  more  to  handle  them  than  so  many  cattle,  while 
they  will  thrive  on  coarser  food  and  under  greater 
exposure.  The  mares  need  a  little  grain  in  the 
winter.  It  is  a  very  low  estimate  to  say  that  80 
mules  can  be  sold  from  100  mares  each  year.  Good 
mares  for  this  purpose  can  be  bought  for  $100  each. 
A  first  rate  jack  should  be  bought,  and  he  will  cost 
from  $500  to  $1000.  The  mules  are  quick  sale  at  the 
breeder's  farm,  and  are  worth  from  $75  to  $100 
each  at  two  years  of  age,  and  $300  per  span,  unbro- 
ken, when  three  years  old.  I  shall  give  my  readers 
an  opportunity  to  figure  out  the  profits  of  the  busi- 
ness, which  they  can  do  from  data  already  furnished. 
I  believe  that  if  a  man  understands  this  business  and 
likes  it,  there  is  more  money  in  it  for  a  term  of  ten 
years  than  in  any  other  branch  of  stock  business. 

Mr.  Keynolds  brought   from  Wisconsin  about  25 


136  HUTCHISON'S  KANSAS. 

fine  horses,  among  which  are  t*vo  thorough  bred 
brood  mares,  by  Lexington,  one  by  imported  West 
Australian,  one  by  Cheatham,  also  brood  mares, 
colts  and  filleys,  by  Creighton,  Escape.  Patchen, 
Daniel  Boon,  Leopold,  Bald  Chief,  Swygart,  Green's 
Bashaw,  etc.  He  also  brought  Escape,  by  imported 
King  of  Simirie,  dam  thorough  bred.  Also  a  trotting 
stallion,  Leopold,  since  purchased  by  I.  S.  Kalloch, 
of  Lawrence. 

TAME   GRASSES. 

The  question,  " can  you  raise  tame  grasses?"  has 
been  asked  in  every  new  settlement  from  the  Atlan- 
tic seaboard  to  Kansas.  Thirty  or  forty  years  ago 
it  is  said  to  have  been  a  matter  of  doubt  in  Ohio, 
and  when  I  first  came  to  Illinois  from  Yermont, 
seventeen  years  ago,  it  was  discussed  pro  and  con, 
and  half  the  settlers  were  convinced,  without  expe- 
riment, that  timothy  and  clover  would  not  succeed 
on  the  prairies. 

The  same  question  is  now  discussed  in  some  por- 
tions of  Kansas  and  among  some  people,  but  any 
man  who  will  travel  through  the  older  settled  coun- 
ties of  Eastern  Kansas,  will  be  convinced  that  the 
question  no  longer  admits  of  discussion.  About 
Fort  Leavenworth  timothy  and  clover  has  produced 
a  good  crop  of  hay  for  m&ny  years.  In  Wyandotte 
county  are  blue  grass  pastures,  which  have  been  fed 
twenty-five  years  and  are  constantly  improving. 
The  northeastern  portion  of  Johnson  county  is 
nearly  all  thick  set  with  blue  grass.  Rev.  Mr.  John- 
son, the  old  missionary  among  the  Shawnee  Indians, 
used  to  carry  blue  grass  seed  in  his  pocket,  and 
scattered  it  whenever  he  saw  a  spot  of  broken 
prairie  sod,  where  fresh  earth  was  exposed  by  a 
gopher,  or  the  rooting  of  hogs,  or  the  deep  track  of 
a  horse,  etc.  From  this  it  has  spread  all  through 


TAME   GRASSES.  137 

% 

that  vicinity.     "Wherever  in  Kansas  the  old  Indian 
traders,   or   other  travelers    from    the    blue   grass 
regions  east  of  Kansas,  were  in  the  habit  of  camp- 
ing, there  blue  grass  is  now  abundant,  and  is  rapidly 
spreading.     I  am  speaking  of  Kentucky  blue  grass, 
Poa  Pretensis.      It  grows  during  the   entire  season 
excepting  in  mid-summer,  and  it  is  therefore  a  feed 
for  all  seasons  of  the  year  excepting  summer,  when 
it  is  better  not  to  put  stock  upon  it.     Mr.  Tipton,  of 
Anderson  county,  successfully  seeded  a  quarter  sec- 
tion to  this  grass  ten  years  ago,  by  sowing  the  seed 
in  the  fall  upon  the  prairie  sod,  and  then  harrowing 
it    thoroughly.      It    catches     easily    upon   plowed 
ground,  by  sowing  in  the  fall  or  winter.     14  Ibs.   of 
common  threshed  seed,  6  Ibs.  of  clean,  or  2  Ibs.  of 
extra    clean — which    can   hardly  be   obtained — will 
seed  an  acre.     Clean  seed  is  evidently  better  than 
Seed  in   the  chaff  for  sowing  on   raw  (unplowed) 
prairie,  as  it  will  more  readily  sink  into  the  soil  and 
take  root.     Once  established  in  any  locality,  the  seed 
is  carried  by  stock,  or  blown  by  the  wind,  as  well  as 
spreading  by  its  roots,  and  it  will  take  possession  of 
all  Eastern  Kansas  in   a  few  years.     This  soil  and 
climate  is  peculiarly   congenial  to  it,  and  nowhere 
else   does   it   appear  as  promising,    except    in  the 
famous  blue  grass  regions  of  Kentucky.     It  is  the 
most  profitable  grass  in  the  world,  and  unless  a  lawn 
mower  is  to  be  used  frequently,  it  is  our  beet  lawn 
grass. 

Orchard  grass,  Dactylis  Glomerata,  has  been  sown 
by  several  farmers,  and  furnishes  better  feed  during 
midsummer  than  blue  grass.  It  can  also  be  cut  for 
hay,  as  it  grows  tall,  much  like  timothy,  excepting 
that  its  head  resembles  herds  grass  or  red  top.  Blue 
grass  does  not  make  hay,  it  being  strictly  a  grazing 
grass.  Timothy  and  clover  also  do  well  here.  Tim- 
othy furnishes  very  good  winter  pasturage.  I  know 
6* 


138  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

0 

of  a  field  of  thirty  acres  in  Franklin  county,  which 
has  been  fed  all  winter,  keeping  green  and  fresh, 
excepting  a  few  of  the  most  severe  days.  There 
can  be  no  doubt  that  Eastern  Kansas  is  unsurpassed 
as  a  tame  grass  region.  About  the  most  profitable 
use  to  which  land  can  be  put,  is  to  seed  it  to  blue 
grass.  Allow  it  to  grow  four  to  six  months  and  turn 
upon  it  during  the  winter  stock  that  has  been  grazing 
on  the  open  prairie.  There  is  yet  abundant  summer 
range  in  Eastern  Kansas,  and  the  capacity  of  this 
region  for  producing  tame  grass  and  corn,  has  made 
it  famous  as  a  beef  producing  country.  Stock  may 
be  raised  with  great  profit  in  Eastern  Kansas,  and 
it  is  the  only  part  of  the  State  where  feeding  to 
corn  has  yet  been  practiced.  *  The  time  is  not  very 
distant,  however,  when  Eastern  Kansas  will  all  be 
fenced  with  Osage  Orange  hedges,  grown  at  a  cost 
of  -less  than  fifty  cents  per  rod,  and  stock  will  be 
raised  in  Western  Kansas  and  taken  to  the  blue 
grass  meadows  and  rich  corn  fields  of  the  eastern 
part  of  the  State  to  be  finished  off  for  the  best  mar- 
ket prices. 

FRUIT  GROWING. 

Our  limited  space  forbids  any  lengthy  dissertation 
upon  the  general  subject  of  fruit  growing.  Here,  as 
elsewhere,  the  nurseryman  and  orchardist  must  exer- 
cise patience  and  care,  if  he  would  be  successful,  but 
the  soil  and  climate  certainly  are  very  favorable  to 
the  growth  of  plants,  trees  and  vines,  and  to  the 
production  of  fruit.  The  best  evidence  I  can  furnish 
upon  this  point  is  to  present  cuts  showing  the  exact 
size  of  the  Great  Gold  Medal  awarded  to  Kansas, 
over  all  other  States,  at  the  national  exhibition  at 
Philadelphia,  Pennsylvania,  in  1869,  for  which  I  am 
indebted  to  Geo.  T.  Anthony,  Editor  Kansas  Farmer. 

Kansas  is  not  entirely  exempt  from  the  vicissitudes 
of  climate  which  make  fruit  growing  so  precarious 


FURIT   GROWING. 


139 


in  nearly  all  parts  of  the  United  States,  and  the 
peach  crop  is  probably  no  more  certain  than  in 
Southern  0"hio,  Indiana  and  Illinois.  The  apple  and 
pear  orchards  are  very  promising,  and  small  fruits 
are  grown  successfully.  The  capacity  of  Western 
Kansas  as  a  fruit  region  has  not  been  tried,  but  from 
the  character  of  the  soil,  from  its  altitude  of  2,000 
feet  or  more,  and  from  the  extraordinary  growth  of 
wild  fruit  there  found,  I  am  of  the  opinion  that  the 
sandy  hills  and  slopes  described  by  Mr.  Hohneck,  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  Arkansas  River,  will  prove  very 
favorable  to  the  production  of  fine  fruits.  At  my 


KANSAS   FRUIT    MEDAL. 

request,  Messsrs.  Topping,  nurserymen  and  fruit 
growers  at  Ottawa,  prepared  the  following  brief 
description  of  their  method  and  its  results  in  small 
fruit  culture. 

1  It  is  folly  for  a  new  settler  to  wait  years  without 
fruit,  for  his  apple  trees  to  bear,  when  he  can  have 
abundance  of  delicious  fruit  the  first  and  second 
years  by  a  judicious  planting  of  small  fruits.  Ear- 


140  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

liest  in  the  season  is  the  rhubarb,  or  pie  plant,  yield- 
ing considerable  for  the  family  the  first  year.  Next 
the  strawberry,  most  delicious  of  all  fruits,  lasting 
four  weeks.  Then  follows  the  raspberry.  Next  in 
close  succession  follows  the  blackberry  and  then  the 
grape,  all  of  which  are  in  full  bearing  before  the  first 
specimen  apple  is  produced  from  trees  planted  at  the 
same  time.  The  experience  of  fruit  growers  in  Kan- 
sas for  several  years  has  placed  the  success  and  profit 
of  small  fruit  culture  beyond  a  doubt. 

"  Strawberries. — Our  first  crop  of  strawberries  illus- 
trates what  can  be  realized  in  one  year  without  extra 
care  and  without  manure.  We  took  great  care  to 
procure  the  pure  Wilson's  Albany,  as  we  had  known 
of  failures  resulting  from  impuriiy  of  stock  planted. 

"Soil — Authorities  usually  recommend  sandy  loam. 
Yet  we  used  such  as  we  had,  a  heavy  prairie  loam, 
dark  and  deep,  nearly  level.  It  had  been  under  cul- 
tivation three  years,  and  cropped  with  corn. 

"  Cultivation*—  We  plowed  about  12  inches  deep 
and  pulverized  well — planted  in  rows  four  feet  apart 
and  twelve  inches  apart  in  rows — used  the  Moline 
ifine-tooth  cultivator,  drawing  it  together  as  the  young 
plants  spread  out  each  side  of  the  row,  which  finally 
altogether  prevented  cultivation  about  August. 
Mulching  in  winter  was  done  with  clean  straw  about 
2  inches  deep. 

"Results. — The  next  spring  over  4000  quarts  of 
strawberries  were  gathered  from  this  bed  of  seven- 
eighth  of  an  acre,  the  sales  netting  $865,  or  at  the 
rate  of  fully  $1000  per  acre.  We  made  sales  at 
Ottawa  and  other  towns  in  this  State.  The  entire 
expense  of  planting,  cultivating  and  picking  was  not 
more  than  $250. 

"Raspberries — Are  almost  as  successfully  raised. 
Planted  four  by  six  feet  they  yield  a  partial  crop  in 
one  year  and  almost  a  full  crop  the  second  year.  We 
plant  chiefly  a  variety  of  black  cap  which  we  brought 


FRUIT   GROWING.  141 

from  southern  Illinois,  which-  appears  to  be  identical 
with  the  so  called  Mammoth  Cluster,  and  yields  large 
crops  annually. 

"  Blackberries — Are  completely  successful  here — no 
larger  crops  anywhere.  The  true  Kittatinny,  the 
favorite,  both  in  quality,  fruitfulness  and  hardiness. 

"  The  Grape — The  grape  for  the  million  here  as 
elsewhere  is  the  Concord — but  other  varieties  appear 
almost  equally  successful.  Planted  8  by  8  feet  they 
commence  bearing  the  second  year,  and  thus  far  no 
failures  of  crop  have  occurred  and  no  diseases  have 
appeared  to  damage  the  fruit. 

"  All  kinds  of  fruit  here  are  remarkably  free  from 
any  stings  of  insects.  Apples  and  peaches  as  well  as 
grapes  and  small  fruits  are  perfect  in  development. 

"  We  have  chiefly  used  the  Eobinson  trench  plow, 
manufactured  in  Ottawa  by  the  Eobinson  plow  com- 
pany, in  preparing  prairie  sod  for  fruit  planting.  We 
plowed  in  late  fall  and  early  winter,  and  by  spring 
the  soil  was  in  best  condition.  The  forward  share 
of  this  plow  cuts  the  sod  about  3  inches  deep,  which 
is  laid  at  the  bottom  of  the  furrow  and  the  next  share 
cuts  the  subsoil  about  4  inches  below,  and  this  is 
thrown  over  the  sod,  burying  it  so  deeply  that  it  is 
smothered.  Four  heavy  horses  will  break  about  1 J 
acres  per  day  with  this  plow. 

"The  best  season  for  breaking  raw  prairie  is  in 
May,  when  a  crop  of  corn  can  be  raised  at  once ;  but 
one  great  advantage  of  this  plow  is  that  it  can  be 
done  with  good  results  in  the  fall,  when  ordinary 
breaking  would  be  worse  than  useless." 

Mr.  Wm.  L.  G.  Soule,  a  nurseryman  near  Lawrence, 
writes  me  as  follows  : 

"  The  largest  and  most  thrifty  orchard  I  have  seen 
in  Kansas  is  near  Vinland,  on  a  light  sandy  ridge, 
the  land  having  received  no  manure,  and  cultivated 
with  some  kind  of  crops  between  the  trees  every 
year  since  they  were  planted. 


142  t 

"  The  following  varieties  of  apples  have  done  well 
in  Douglas  county,  and  I  think  in  all  other  parts  of 
the  State : 

"  Early  Harvest,  Red  June,  Eed  Astrachan,  and 
Early  Strawberry  for  summer;  Maiden  Blush,  Fa- 
meuse,  (or  Snow,)  Fall  Wine,  Rambo,  Duchess  of 
Oldenburg  and  Lowell  for  autumn;  and  for  winter 
the  Wine  Sap,  Janet,  Large  Striped  Pearmain,  Home 
Beauty,  Missouri  Pippin,  Kansas  Keeper,  Baldwin, 
Ehode  Island  Greening,  Jonathan,  Milan,  Mother, 
Willow  Twig,  Golden  Russett,  Fallawater,  Swaar, 
White  Winter  Pearmain,  Tallman  Sweet,  and  Sweet 
Romanite. 

"  As  an  ornamental  tree  the  improved  varieties  of 
crab  apple  have  no  equal  among  fruit  trees,  while 
the  beauty  and  large  size  of  the  fruit,  added  to  its 
superiority  for  domestic  use,  and  its  early  fruiting, 
render  it  one  of  the  most  desirable  trees  the  farmer 
or  fruit  grower  can  plant.  1  have  seen  a  specimen 
of  the  Soulard  grown  in  Kansas  nearly  three  inches 
in  its  largest  diameters.  The  Hyslop  and  Trans- 
cendent are  both  beautiful,  fine  flavored  fruit,  while 
the  Pyramid  cannot  be  excelled  as  an  ornamental 
tree.  The  Queen's  Choice,  Blushing  Maid,  Sweet 
Crab,  and  several  others  have  very  attractive  quali- 
ties. 

"  The  peach  has  been  planted  very  extensively, 
and  some  fine  crops  have  been  raised,  though  mostly 
on  seedling  trees.  It  requires  elevated  land  with  a 
northern  exposure  for  the  protection  of  its  buds  in 
the  spring,  otherwise  the  fruit  buds  expand  before 
the  frosts  are  over  and  the  crop  is  destroyed.  In 
some  parts  of  the  State  the  pear  has  been  success- 
fully cultivated  for  a  number  of  years,  but  in  some 
sections  the  blight  has  done  considerable  damage  to 
the  trees,  but  so  far  there  has  been  but  little  injury 
done  trees  south  of  the  Kansas  River. 


FRUIT   GROWING.  143 

"  In  1869,  having  but  just  commenced  raising  small 
fruits,  I  marketed  about  1900  quarts  of  strawberries, 
about  900  quarts  of  blackberries,  and  between  300 
and  400  of  raspberries  from  an  acre,  while  in  1870, 
an  unusually  dry  and  unprofitable  season,  I  picked 
about  500  quarts  of  strawberries,  200  of  blackberries, 
and  not  more  than  fifty  of  raspberries.  In  1869  the 
price  of  strawberries  was  23  cents ;  cost  of  picking, 
$57 ;  cultivating,  $5.00 ;  boxes,  $19.00 ;  man  and 
team  to  market  12£  days,  $37.50;  profits,  $318.50; 
sold  enough  plants  from  small  fruit  to  pay  for  culti- 
vating. But  grapes  gave  more  than  two-thirds  as 


KANSAS    FRUIT    MEDAL.     . 

large  a  yield  in  1870  as  in  1869.  'The  apple  and 
peach  crops  were  cut  short  in  1870,  by  severe  frosts 
after  the  trees  were  in  bloom,  making  the  yield 
scarcely  one-tenth  of  what  it  was  the  previous  year. 
But  this  need  be  no  discouragement,  for  in  no  State 
do  they  succeed  in  getting  full  crops  every  year. 
And  judging  from  present  prospects,  1871  will  be 


144  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS, 

even  more  fruitful  than  1869.  So  taking  all  things 
into  consideration  the  prospect  for  fruit  growing 
becomes  more  flattering  every  year,  and  as  railroads 
open  up  new  markets  both  south  and  west,  the  diffi- 
culty will  be  in  furnishing  fruit  enough  to  meet  the 
increased  demand," 

Profits  of  a  Vineyard, 

Mr.  W.  E.  Barnes  settled  in  1856  upon  unimproved 
prairie  10  miles  south  of  Lawrence,  at  Yineland  sta- 
tion. He  was  a  young  man,  not  worth  enough  to 
pay  for  his  land  and  unacquainted  with  the  nursery 
business.  In  1857  he  set  a  few  grape  vines  brought 
in  a  carpet  bag  from  Massachusetts  by  W.  L.  Or.  Soule. 
He  now  has  a  large  amount  of  bearing  fruit  of  all 
kinds,  from  which  he  reaps  such  profits  that  he 
refused  $20,000  for  his  farm  and  nursery  of  160  acres 
in  1869.  His  buildings  are  not  costly  and  the  offer 
"vas  made  because  of  the  actual  value  in  his  fruit 
orchards  and  vineyards.  Probably  twice  that  amount 
would  not  buy  his  place.  The  following  estimates 
from  Mr.  Barnes  are  therefore  not  theoretical  but  are 
based  upon  actual  experience. 

"In  accordance  with  your  request  I  send  the  follow- 
ing estimates  for  10  acres  of  vineyard  for  five  years, 
the  land  to  be  located  convenient  to  a  railroad  sta- 
tion: 

FIRST  YEAR. 

Ten  acres  unimproved  prairie  at  $20 $200  00 

Breaking  sod  in  May  at  3  50 36  00 

Planting  corn  at  1  00..  10  00 

Fencing  with  wire  at  75c  per  rod 120  00 


Total $365  00 

Pednct  Talue  of  corn  crop  $60  00  to  $100  say 50  00 

$315  00 
Add  interest  at  10  per  cent 31  50 

$346  50 


FRUIT   GROWING. 


145 


SECOND  TEAK.  DR. 

Amount  hi  ought  forward $346  50 

Subsoiling  (trench  plowing)  12  inches  at  $6  00  per 

acre 60  00 

Harrowing  once  1  00  pe-  acre 10  00 

9000  vines  at  3  cents 270  00 

Plantin-r,5  00  per  acre 50  00 

Cultivating 50  00 

Fall  pruning,  cutting  vines  back  to  two  eyes 10  00 

450  00 

796  50 
Interest 79  65 

Total $876  15 

THIRD  TEAK. 

Amount  brought  forward $876  15 

35(  3  oak  posts  at  15  cents 525  00 

2500  pounds  No.  9  wire  at  7%  cents 1875  00 

150  pounds  staples 16  00 

Putting  up  trellis 100  00 

Cultivating  and  tying  vises 80  00 

Fall  pruning 50  00 

$2,646  00 

$3,52215' 
Interest 352  21 

Total $3,87436 

FOURTH     TEAR. 

Amount  brought  forward 3,874  36 

Cultivation 70  00 

Training  vines  a^d  gathering  fruit 300  00  370  00 

$4,244  36 
Deduct  3,600  pounds  grapes  at  7  cents 2,520  00 

1,724  36 
Add  interest 172  43 

Total 1,896  79 

FIFTH  TEAR. 

Amount  brought  forward $1,896  79 

Cultivation „ $100  00 

Training  and  ga'herirg  fruit 600  00,          70000 

$2,596  79 
Add  interest , 259  67 

$2,856  46 

Value  of  72,000  pounds  grapes  at  7c $5,040  00 

Deduct  total  cost  to  date 2,856  46 

Net  profit  in  five  years $2,183  54 

7 


146  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

"  To  this  must  be  added  the  value  of  ten  acres  of 
vineyard  in  first  rate  order,  and  requiring  but  a 
trifling  outlay  for  trellis  during  the  ensuing  five  years. 

"  The  above  calculation  is  made  with  reference  to 
the  Concord  and  would  not  apply  to  the  Delaware, 
lona  and  some  others,  but  with  the  former  variety, 
where  the  requirements  indicated  above  are  complied 
with,  it  may  be  relied  upon,  except  so  far  as  price  is 
concerned.  Yery  few  grapes  have  been  sold  for  less 
than  nine  cents  per  pound  heretofore — instead  of 
seven  cents,  as  above  estimated — but  it  is  evident 
that  the  price  must  soon  be  much  lower.  While  the 
product  of  many  Kansas  vineyards  has  fallen  below 
the  above  estimates,  it  will  be  found  that  there  has 
not  been  expended  upon  the  same  vineyards  more 
than  one-third  to  one-half  the  amount  above  indi- 
cated, in  the  way  of  cultivation,  erection  of  trellis,  etc. 

"  By  using  the  trench  plow,  or  following  a  breaker 
with  a  stirring  plow,  to  throw  the  soil  on  top  of  the 
inverted  sod,  in  the  winter  of  the  first  year,  as  much 
might  be  accomplished  in  one  year  as  is  indicated 
above  in  the  first  two  years. 

Eespectfully  yours,  W.  E.  BAKNES." 

FARMING. 

The  table  of  farm  products  given  on  page  nine- 
teen, is  the  most  reliable  and  thorough  exposition  of 
the  results  of  Kansas  farming  that  can  be  made. 
She  stands,  by  that  table,  ahead  of  nearly  every 
other  State,  excepting  for  one  year,  and  then  she 
fell  but  little  behind,  excepting  as  to  corn.  (For  the 
benefit  of  any  English  reader  into  whose  hands  this 
book  may  fall,  I  will  state  that  the  word  "  corn  " 
is  used  in  this  book,  as  it  is  universally  used  in  this 
country,  to  represent  "  maize.") 

In  Eastern  Kansas,  spring  wheat  is  little  sown,  as 
it  does  not  do  well,  while  winter  wheat  yields  bounti- 


FARMING.  147 

fully.  West  of  Emporia,  Council  Grove  and  Marysville, 
spring  wheat  is  a  profitable  croj).  Some  in  Western 
Kansas  are  unsuccessful  with  winter  wheat,  because 
they  put  it  in  too  shallow,  only  covering  it  with  a 
harrow,  and  the  light  soil  is  blown  away  from  the 
stem  and  roots  during  winter,  and  it  "  winter  kills." 
Wheat,  and  indeed  all  seeds,  should  be  put  in  quite 
deep  in  that  soil,  and  a  frequent  use  of  the  roller 
would  be  highly  beneficial.  I  think  the  rule  applies 
generally  in  Kansas  that  seeds  should  be  planted 
deeper  than  in  Illinois.  It  has  for  many  years  been 
the  universal  practice  in  Western  Missouri,  to  plow 
oats  under  in  March,  about  three  or  four  inches 
deep,  and  those  Kansas  farmers  who  follow  that 
practice  always  raise  good  crops  of  oats. 

In  1857  having  occassion  to  write  a  series  of 
newspaper  articles  on  Kansas  Farming  for  the  Law- 
rence Republican,  edited  by  T.  Dwight  Thacher,  I 
kept  three  standing  rules  or  mottos,  as  follows : 
Plow  deep.  Plant  early.  Use  the  roller.  Of  course 
the  matters  of  fine  tilth,  subduing  the  weeds,  stir- 
ring the  ground,  etc.,  are  not  to  be  neglected,  but  I 
then  believed  and  now  am  fully  persuaded  that  the 
three  cardinal  principles  above  laid  down  are  especi- 
ally applicable  to  Kansas.  All  farmers  who  have 
practiced  those  principles  have  raised  good  crops 
continually. 

Colonel  A.  S.  Johnson,  of  Shawneetown,  Johnson 
county,  Kansas,  a  native  of  the  State,  and  whose 
father  sowed  the  good  blue  grass  seed  already  men- 
tioned, broke,  in  1862,  105  acres  with  a  double  Michi- 
gan plow,  upper  plow  cutting  two  to  three  inches 
deep,  lower  plow  cutting  five  inches;  commenced 
with  the  first  grass  in  the  spring,  and -plowed  until 
too  dry  ;  put  it  all  in  wheat,  sown  broad  cast,  from  1st 
to  10th  of  September,  and  harrowed  in  thoroughly, 
two  bushels  per  acre;  harvested  in  June,  the  next 
year,  by  measurement,  35  bushels  per  acre,  and 


FARMING.  149 

measured  the  ground.  It  made  a  trifle  over  60 
pounds  per  bushel.  Next  year  he  broke  107  acres, 
22  acres  in  corn,  harrowed  and  cultivated  as  old 
ground,  made  an  average  of  45  bushels  of  corn 
per  acre ;  in  September,  1st  to  10th,  sowed  in  wheat, 
corn  land  and  all,  and  harvested  35  bushels  per  acre. 
He  could  not  tell  the  difference  between  corn  land 
and  the  other. 

Col.  Johnson  has  a  large  farm,  much  of  which  has 
been  in  constant  cultivatiion  for  30  years  and  still 
produces  good  crops.  It  is  his  practice  once  in  three 
years  to  double  his  teams  and  plow  about  a  foot  deep 
with  a  trench  plow,  or  to  use  a  subsoil  plow.  For 
this  purpose  another  Kansas  Johnson  has  invented 
a  subsoiler,  which  can  be  attached  to  any  plow  in  a 
few  minutes.  It  is  called  Johnson's  Patent  Kansas 
Subsoiler.  Mr.  C.  A.  Wright,  of  Lawrence  has  the 
control  of  the  patent  for  the  United  States.  The 
implement  is  made  of  iron,  curved  like  a  hook.  A 
steel  shovel,  like  a  cultivator  tooth,  and  with  sharp 
edges  to  cut  roots,  occupies  about  six  inches  of  the 
end  or  point  of%the  subsoiler.  The  implement  curves 
behind  and  below  the  plow,  and  stirs  the  soil  with- 
out throwing  it  out,  to  the  depth  of  four  to  ten 
inches  below  the  bottom  of  the  furrow.  It  hangs 
centrally  in  the  line  of  draft,  and  adds  but  the  draft 
of  one  horse  to  the  team.  Its  cost  is  but  six  dollars 
and  it  is  unquestionably  destined  to  work  a  revolu- 
tion in  methods  of  cultivation.  Whenever  used  it 
has  added  largely  to  the  yield  of  all  crops. 

Breaking  Prairie  costs  about  four  dollars  per  acre 
to  hire  it  done.  By  this  process  the  grass  sod  of  the 
prairie  is  turned  over  to  the  depth  of  two  and  a  half 
to  four  inches,  with  a  plow  which  is  kept  sharp  to 
cut  the  tough  roots  of  grass  and  flowering  plants. 
A  pair  of  heavy  horses  will  break  an  acre  a  day  for 
an  average  of  two  months  with  a  light  plow  kept 
sharp.  Three  horses  or  mules,  worked  abreast,  makes 


150  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

an  excellent  breaking  team.  But  the  cheapest  break- 
ing team  is  about  four  yoke  of  young  oxen,  attached 
to  a  large  plow  which  is  so  arranged  with  wheels  as 
to  steady  itself.  One  good  man  can  inanage  this- 
outfit  after  the  first  week,  and  the  cattle,  if  properly 
handled,  will  gain  in  flesh  by  feeding  upon  prairie 
grass.  The  share  or  cutting  part  of  a  breaking  plow 
is  heated  and  hammered  out  thin  by  a  blacksmith 
once  or  twice  a  week,  and  it  is  kept  sharp  in  the 
field  by  the  frequent  use  of  a  large  flat  file.  Ordinary 
breaking  as  above  described,  may  be  commenced  as 
goon  as  the  grass  is  high  enough  to  furnish  good 
feed,  and  may  be  continued  into  or  through  the 
month  of  June.  If  done  at  any  other  season  of  the 
year  the  sod  does  not  rot  well.  •  If  a  lower  furrow  is 
turned  on  top  of  the  inverted  sod,  as  already  de- 
scribed, prairie  may  be  broken  any  time  of  the  year, 
and  the  ground  planted  and  treated  like  old  plowed 
ground.  This  saves  one  years  time,  except  for  winter 
wheat,  and  land  thus  broken  produces  better  crops. 
Corn  may  be  planted  early  in  the  season  upon  freshly 
broken  sod  by  cutting  through  the  sod  with  an  axe 
Or  spade,  dropping  into  the  opening  the  seed  corn, 
and  then  stepping  upon  it:  Winter  wheat  is  sown 
in  September  of  the  same  year  the  ground  is  broken. 
Winter  wheat  should  be  sown  before,  rather  than 
after  the  middle  of  September,  usually  the  first  week. 

HEDGES  AND  FOREST  TREES. 

By  the  law  of  this  State  any  person  planting  one 
acre  or  more  of  any  forest  tree,  excepting  black 
locust,  or  one  half  mile  or  more  of  forest  trees  set  in 
row  on  a  public  highway  not  more  than  a  rod  apart, 
shall  receive  two  dollars  per  acre,  or  two  dollars  per 
half  mile,  each  year  for  a  term  of  twenty-five  years  ; 
provided,  that  the  trees  shall  be  cultivated  and  grow- 
ing three  years  before  the  bounty  begins.  \General 
Statutes  p.  1094.] 


HEDGES  AND  FOREST  TREES.        151 

The  following  essay  was  prepared  for  this  book 
by  Mr.  S.  T.  Kelsey,  of  Pomona,  Franklin  county, 
it  being  the  substance  of  an  essay  read  by  him  before 
the  Kansas  State  Horticultural  Society  at  its  Annual 
Meeting,  December  15,  1868.  Its  clear  and  concise 
directions  are  founded  upon  the  experience  of  twenty 
years  in  the  business,  six  years  of  which  period  have 
been  spent  in  Kansas : 

Set  a  row  of  stakes  six  to  eight  feet  to  one  side  of  the  line  intended  for  the 
hedge,  to  guide  the  plowman.  As  each  stake  is  passed,  set  it  over  the  samo 
distance  to  the  other  side  of  the  hedge  line,  which  will  guide  you  in  striking 
the  back  furrow.  Finish  out  the  land  by  leaving  a  dead  farrow  on  the  hedge 
line.  It  is  generally  cheaper  and  better  for  the  farmer  to  buy  his  plants  of  the 
grower  who  makes  that  a  specialty,  than  to  attempt  to  grow  them  himself. 
Plant  any  time  during  the  month  of  April  or  first  of  May,  after  the  soil  is 
rotted  and  when  the  ground  is  in  good  order.  Don't  plant  when  it  is  too  wet, 
Prepare  the  ground  by  plowing  deep,  throwing  the  furrows  to  the  center,  after 
which  harrow  down  smooth.  Now  stretch  a  cord  the  size  of  a  clothes  line,, 
track  it  by  walking  along  on  the  cord,  throw  it  to  one  side  and  it  leaves  a 
mark  to  plant  by.  Plant  with  steel  spadp,  with  blade  thirteen  inches  long  and 
three  wide.  Use  none  but  good,  strong  plants.  Cut  them  so  that  the  roots  shall 
be  eight  inches  long  and  the  tops  six*  Press  the  spade  in  on  the  mark  of  the 
line  the  full  length  of  the  blade,  push  it  a  little  forward,  and  a  boy  with  a 
handful  of  plants  slips  one  down  in  the  opening,  two  inches  deeper  than  it 
stood  in  the  nursery.  Pull  up  the  spade,  and  thrusting  it  into  the  soil  two 
inches  from  the  opening,  press  the  earth  firmly  about  the  root,  and  the  work  is 
done.  A  good  man  and  boy  will  in  this  way  plant  a  half  mile  of  hedge  per 
day.  Set  the  plants  one  foot  apart  in  the  row.  Cultivate  well  the  full  width 
of  the  plowing.  In  the  fall  throw  a  furrow  to  the  hedge  on  each  side,  and 
level  down  in  the  spring.  As  soon  as  the  plants  are  started  the  second  spring, 
replace  all  the  dead  ones  with  extra  strong  plants.  I  would  do  no  cutting  till 
the  third,  fourth  or  fifth  year,  then  plash  by  cutting  each  plant  half  off  at  the 
ground,  and  bending  it  down  into  the  row,  so  that  it  shall  rest  on  the  one  last 
cut.  The  young  shoots  will  then  grow  up  from  the  roots  and  along  the  stem, 
making,  with  the  old  plants,  an  impassable  barrier  to  all  farm  stock.  After 
the  hedge  is  plashed,  it  shou7d  be  cut  back  annually  to  about  four  and  a  half 
feet  high,  in  a  pyramidal  form,  so  that  a  cross  section  would  appear  like  a 
capital  "  A,"  with  base  equal  to  hight.  If  a  wind  break  i«  required,  the  plants 
may  be  set  six  to  eight  inches  apart,  cultivated  well,  and  allowed  to  grow  up 
as  they  will.  It  makes  a  good  fence  to  turn  all  large  stock,  but  to  my  eye  is 
an  unsightly  object.  The  Osage  Orange  seems  to  be  at  home  in  our  soil  and 
climate.  It  grows  rapidly,  and  endures  our  dryest  summers  and  our  coldest 
winters.  The  gophers  are  easily  destroyed  by  trapping  or  poisoniag,  and  I 


152  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

know  of  no  other  enemy  or  disease  that  injures  it  seriously.  With  a  little 
forethought  and  effort,  I  am  confident  that  in  less  than  fifteen  years,  with  the 
Osage  Orange  hedges,  we  can  and  will  have  the  best  fenced  State  in  the  Union, 
at  one-third  the  cost  of  fencing  with  wood,  in  countries  where  timber  is  most 
abundant.  Having  the  fence  question  disposed  of,  the  lines  located  and  the 
hedge  rows  broken,  the  next  move  I  would  make  on  a  prairie  farm,  would  be 
to  prepare  for  plan  ting  a  forest  and  orchard,  and  the  first  ground  broken  on 
the  place  after  the  hedge  rows,  should  be  for  that  purpose.  On  a  quarter 
section  I  would  plant  at  least  twenty  acres  of  forest,  and  I  think  forty  acrea 
would  be  still  better.  It  may  be  planted  in  a  body,  or  in  belts  to  form  wind 
breaks.  It  should  be  so  as  to  protect  the  orchard,  farm  buildings,  stock,  crops, 
etc.,  from  storms,  so  far  as  can  well  be.  Having  decid<  d  where  the  forest  is  to 
be  grown,  break  the  ground  early  in  the  season,  so  it  may  become  well  rotted. 
The  kind  of  trees  to  be  planted  now  requires  our  attention,  and  should  be  decided 
upon  in  time  to  collect  a  supply  of  seeds,  cuttings  and  plants,  which  should  be 
ready  on  the  ground  when  planting  time  comes.  I  am  experimenting  with 
most  of  the  different  kinds  of  trees  that  have  been  recommended  for  forest 
culture,  and  thus  far  I  'find  but  three  that  I  can  recommend  for  extensive 
planting.  A  tree  to  be  desirable  and  valuable  for  extensive  forest  planting, 
must  be  easily  and  cheaply  obtained,  and  easily  grown  from  seeds  or  cuttings. 
It  must  be  a  tolerably  fast  grower,  and  should  produce  timber  of  more  than 
ordinary  value  for  fuel,  building  or  manufacturing  purposes.  It  should  be  a 
tree  that  attains  a  good  old  age,  and  increases  in  value  as  it  grows  in  years.  It  • 
is  important  also,  that  it  should  form  one  straight  stem  without  any  pruning, 
I  have  found  no  tree  that  cornea  up  to  my  ideal,  and  am  obliged  to  accept  the 
nearest  approach  to  it. 

All  things  considered,  the  Black  Walnut  is  probably  the  most  valuable  tree 
that  we  can  plant.  Gather  the  nuts,  which  are  abundant  in  K;  nsas,  soon  after 
they  drop  in  the  fall,  spread  them  and  cover  with  two  or  three  inches  of  moist 
earth,  or,  still  better,  with  saw  dust,  to  keep  them  moist  through  the  winter, 
and  plant  two  inches  deep,  ear'y  in  tbe  spring.  Nearly  every  one  will  grow, 
and  in  fair  soil,  with  good  cultivation,  will  make  an  average  growth  of  about 
two  feet  per  year,  producing  firewood  in  five  and  six  years.  In  ten  years  they 
will  make  good  fence  posts,  or  railroad  ties  and  will  begin  to  bear  nuts.  In 
fifteen  years  they  will  make  a  stately  forest,  producing  annually  large  crops  of 
nuts,  as  well  as  furnishing  timber.  Such  a  forest,  judiciously  managed,  will 
increase  in  value  for  a  century,  returning  annually,  without  expense  to  the 
owner,  better  profits  than  any  farm  crops  with  which  I  am  acquainted.  The 
Oottonwood  I  give  the  second  place  on  the  list.  It  is  readily  grown  from  cut- 
tings made  from  shoots  of  the  last  year's  growth,  which  may  be  cut  any  time 
from  the  fall  of  the  leaf  till  needed  for  planting.  I  usually  cut  during  winter 
and  pack  them  away  in  moist  saw  dust,  or  bury  them  in  the  earth  till  planting 
time.  Make  them  about  one  foot  long,  and  plant  with  a  narrow  spade,  as  recom- 
mended for  planting  Osage  Orange  hedge,  leaving  one  or  two  inches  of  the  iop 
.of  the  cutting  above  ground.  Be  sure  that  the  earth  is  firmly  pressed  about 


HEDGES  AND   FOREST   TREES.  153 

each  cutting.  Where  small  plants,  one  year  old,  can  be  obtained,  they  may  be 
planted  instead  of  cuttings.  The  Cottonwood  grows  very  rapidly  when  young, 
making  five  to  six  feet  in  hight  annually  for  several  years.  In  four  years  it 
makes  a  very  good  wind  break  and  shelter  for  fctock,  and  if  fuel  is  scarce  it 
will  supply  the  fires  with  wood.  It  usually  grows  with  a  clean,  straight  stem. 
I  am  of  opiaion  that  by  alternating  the  Cettcnwood  with  the  Black  Walnut, 
and  judiciously  thinning  out  as  they  grow,  the  Walnut  maj  make  a  taller 
straighter  growth  than  if  grown  by  itself,  and  be  of  more  value. 

The  third  and  last  tree  that  I  would  place  on  this  list — and  I  put  this  on  with 
some  hesitation — is  the  Silver  Maple,  commonly  known  as  Soft  Maple.  It  Is 
grown  from  seed,  gathered  as  it  ripens  from  the  first  to  the  fifteenth  of  May, 
sowed  immediately  in  drills,  and  covered  with  one  inch  of  good,  mellow  soil. 
The  plants  come  above  ground  in  six  to  ten  days,  and  by  fall  they  will  be  one 
to  two  and  a  half  feet  high.  Next  spring  they  should  be  planted  in  forest. 
Plant  two  inches  deeper  than  they  stood  before,  and  press  the  earth  firmly 
about  the  roots.  Nearly  every  one  will  live  and  make  an  annual  growth,  on 
average  soil,  with  good  cultivation,  of  about  three  feet.  At  ten  years  from 
planting,  they  will  make  twenty-five  to  thirty  feet  in  hight,  and  ten  to  twelve 
inches  in  diameter.  It  is  a  very  beautiful  tree  while  young,  and  the  wood  is 
more  valuable  for  fuel  than  Cottonwood,  or  any  other  available  fast  growing 
tree  with  which  I  am  acquainted.  It  is  also  valuable  for  the  manufacture  of 
some  kinds  of  furniture,  and  the  sap  makes  sugar  which  is  almost,  if  not 
quite,  equal  in  quality  to  that  made  from  the  sugar  maple.  It  has  the  fault  of 
often  forking,  so  as  to  make  two  or  more  stems,  and  except  in  favorable  situa- 
tions, I  think  it  is  not  likely  to  make  large,  straight  trees.  It  also  has  the 
fault  of  being  too  easily  split  down  by  wind  and  sleet. 

The  forest  should  be  planted  as  early  in  spring  as  the  ground  can  be  put  in 
good  order.  Lay  off  and  stake  the  rows  twelve  feet  apart.  The  whole  ground 
may  now  be  plowed,  or  a  strip  four  feet  wide  may  be  plowed  for  each  row, 
leaving  the  rest  to  be  plowed  afterwards.  Plow  deep  in  the  line  of  each  row 
and  harrow  it  down.  Now  stretch  a  line,  track  it,  and  plant  to  the  mark, 
putting  the  plants  about  eighteen  inches  apart  in  the  row.  Plant  the  Walnuta 
with  a  hoe,  like  potatoes,  the  cuttings  with  a  narrow  spade,  as  before  directed, 
and  the  young  plants  with  a  common  spade,  by  throwing  out  a  spit  of  earth 
where  the  plant  is  to  stand ;  then  one  person,  with  plants  in  hand,  puts  one  in 
place,  another  vuth  spade  fills  in  the  earth,  and  the  first  presses  it  about  the 
roots  with  his  feet.  I  have  often  platted  alone  pulling  some  earsh  to  the  plant 
with  my  foot,  and  when  through  the  row  go  back  and  level  with  the  spade. 
Now  plant  two  rows  of  corn  or  other  hoed  crop,  in  each  space  between  the  rows 
of  trees,  and  keep  the  ground  mellow  and  free  from  weeds  by  cultivat'on. 
Plant  thus  between  the  rows  each  year,  and  cultivate  well  until  the  trees  shade 
the  ground  too  much  for  profitable  cultivation  and  seed  with  red  clover  If  a 
hedge  was  plantel  around  the  forest  as  it  should  have  been  when  the  forest 
was  planted,  it  w  11  now  be  a  fence,  and  hogs  or  young  cattle  may  be  turned  in 
to  pasture  on  the  clover.  As  soon  as  the  trees  are  large  erough  to  be  out  of 


154  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

the  way  of  large  cattle,  they  also  may  be  turned  in  sparingly ;  but  it  is  not 
advisable  to  attempt  too  much  pasturicg  in  the  forest,  as  it  will  injure  and 
finally  ruin,  even  a  well  grown  natural  forest.  Besides,  the  growth  of  the 
timber,  and  the  value  of  the  wood  that  may  be  taken  annually  therefrom,  will 
be  ample  to  satisfy  any  reasonable  man. 

There  are  many  other  forest  trees  that  are  valuable  for  various  purposes,  and 
to  those  who  want  a  greater  variety  than  I  have  recommended,  who  have  means 
that  they  are  willing  to  lay  out  in  extra  expense,  or  who  want  to  grow  the 
trees  for  a  special  object,  I  would  suggest  the  following:  Honey  Locust,  White 
Ash,  Box  Elder,- Kentucky  Coffee,  White,  Red,  and  Water  Elm,  Butternut, 
Chestnut,  Hickory,  Cypress,  European  and  American  Larch,  Linden,  Silver 
Leaf  Poplar,  Mulberry,  Catalpa,  Ailanthus,  White  and  Yellow  Willow,  and 
Hackberry4  and  lastly  the  Evergreens — the  beauty  snd  glory  of  the  landscape, 
unfading,  unchanging  "types  of  the  immortal,"  relieving  more  than  anything 
else,  the  monotony  of  winter,  and  with  their  dense  foliage  checking  and  modify- 
ing the  searching  prairie  winds.  These  should  receive  the  attention  of  every 
prairie  farmer,  and  should  be  planted  liberally  about  every  prairie  home  as  soon 
as  possible  after  the  more  pressing  wants  are  supplied.  Evergreens  grow  slowly 
for  the  first  few  years.  Most  varieties  require  two  or  three  years  to  become 
thoroughly  acclimated  and  are  too  expensive  for  general  forest  planting;  but 
from  the  experience  that  I  have  had  with  them,  and  the  evidence  of  success 
that  I  have  seen  with  others,  I  am  satisfied  that  when  once  established  and 
growing  on  our  praire  soil,  they  suceeed  as  well  in  Kansas  as  farther  north  and 
eact,  and  that  good,  small  sized,  well  rooted  trees  may  be  transplanted  with  very 
little  danger  of  failure.  Too  many  have  bought  Evergreens  from  parties  east, 
who  advertise  that  they  have  immense  quantifies  which  they  will  sell  for  one- 
half  (or  less)  the  usual  price  charged  by  nurserymen.  They  are  little,  spind- 
ling things,  with  scarcely  any  roots  at  all,  and  unused  to  the  sun,  even  in  their 
northern  homes.  It  will  be  found  much  cheaper  and  more  satisfactory  in  nearly 
every  case  to  go  to  the  nearest  reliable  nursery  for  Evergreens,  paying  a 
reasonable  price  therefor,  or  if  such  trees  cannot  be  obtamed  at  the  home 
nursery,  send  to  some  other  reliable  nurseryman  and  order  them,  remembering 
always  that  it  is  much  safer,  cheaper  and  better  to  get  small  trees,  not  over  two 
feet  high,  and  if  possible,  get  such  as  have  been  often  transplanted.  The  best 
time  to  transplant  Evergreens  is  in  the  spring,  usually  from  the  first  to  the 
middle  of  April,  tt  ough  I  should  plant  earlier  if  ground  was  in  good  order. 
In  handling  the  roots  should  not  be  exposed  to  the  sun  or  air  one  minute  longer 
than  is  absolutely  necessary.  The  surface  moisture  even,  should  not  be  dried  off. 
For  general  cultivation  for  ornament  and  wind  breaks,  I  would  recommend  the 
Norway  Spruce,  White  Austrian  and  Scotch  Pines,  Balsam  Fir,  Red  Cedar,  and 
Atrerican  Arbor  Vitse.  For  amateur  cultivators  I  would  add  the  American 
White  and  Black  Spruce,  English,  Irish  and  Swedish  Juniper,  Golden  and 
Siberian  Arbor  Vitse,  Lowsen's  Cypress,  American  Holly  and  Hemlock.  I 
would  also  suggest  that  experiments  should  be  made  with  native  Evergreens 
from  south  and  west,  and  w«  may  find  something  more  valuable  for  ouv  Kansas 


HEDGES  AND   FOREST  TREES.  155 

prairies  than  anything  we  now  have  in  cultivation.  A  few  dollars  judiciously 
expended,  and  a  little  care  in  planting  and  tending,  will  in  a  few  years  give  the 
surroundings  of  any  prairie  farm  house  or  any  Kansas  home  a  goodly  supply 
of  well  grown  specimens  of  these  most  beautiful  of  nature's  gifts. 

S.  T.  KELSET. 

Concerning  this  practical  and  highly  valuable 
essay,  it  is  proper  to  say  that  most  of  tree  cultiva- 
tors in  other  States,  think  it  much  better  to  plant 
the  trees  closer  together,  say  in  rows  three  or  four 
feet  apart,  giving  as  a  reason  the  fact  that  by  close 
planting,  forest  trees  make  taller  and  smoother 
trunks,  as  the  branches  tend  upward  for  light  and 
air,  instead  of  expanding  laterally.  Mr.  Kelsey  does 
not  lose  sight  of  this  fact,  but  his  theory  is  that  a 
half  a  loaf  is  better  than  no  bread  at  all.  Most 
settlers  in  a  new  country  are  not  able  to  devote  land 
solely  to  the  growth  of  forest  trees,  and  experience 
in  all  the  Western  States  demonstrates  that  of  those 
who  are  able,  very  few  can  be  persuaded  to  do  it. 
Mr.  Kelsey  concedes  that  a  better  and  more  valuable 
forest  can  be  grown  by  thick  planting,  and  for  those 
who  can  afford  it,  he  advises  it.  But  it  is  a  question 
of  dollars  and  cents  and  his  method  has  the  striking 
advantage  that  it  is  cheap. 

One  of  the  best  evergreens  for  Kansas  is  the  Red 
Cedar,  which  is  a  native  of  all  the  region  west  of  the 
Missouri  Eiver,  from  Texas  to  the  British  Posses- 
sions. It  is  quite  easily  transplanted,  and  is,  when 
young,  a  rapid  grower.  It  is  natural  to  dry,  rocky 
and  barren  spots,  and  it  is  therefore  not  difficult  to 
make  it  grow  upon  the  open  prairie. 

Box  Elder  is  another  native  of  "Western  Kansas, 
which  may  be  grown  from  the  seeds  that  can  be  col- 
lected in  the  fall.  It  grows  rapidly  and  in  beautiful 
form  until  about  ten  or  fifteen  years  old,  after  which 
it  is  inclined  to  be  scraggy.  Mr.  E.  S.  Elliott,  Indus- 
trial Agent  of  the  K.  P.  Railway,  says  it  can  be 


156 


HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 


grown  from  cuttings,  and  it  is  well  known  that  its 
sap  makes  a  fair  quality  of  sugar. 

Osage  Orange  is  almost  a  native  of  Kansas,  as  it 
grows  wild  in  the  Indian  Territory  not  far  from  our 
southern  border.  It  matures  its  seeds  here,  which 


PLAN    OF    HIGHLAND    CEMETERY,  JUNCTION    CITY. 

are  held  in  a  ball  much  like  a  small  orange,  whence 
its  name.  In  its  wild  state  it  attains  the  height  of 
forty  to  sixty  feet.  This  is  a  very  valuable  tree  for 

feneral  cultivation.     It  grows  rapidly,  its  wood  is 
ard  and  durable,  and  it  makes  an  excellent  wind 
break.     In  this  regard  it  stands  next  to   evergreens 


HEDGES  AND   FOREST.  TREES.  157 

from  its  multitude  of  small  li^ibs.  A  belt  a  rod  or 
-two  in  width,  almost  entirely  breaks  the  force  of 
the  wind.  Mr.  Keleey  has  said  enough  about  hedge 
rows,  but  I  urge  the  planting  of  this  tree  for  wind 
breaks.  Plants  a  year  old  can  be  had  for  $1.50  to 
$2.25  per  thousand,  according  to  quality  and  quantity. 
Or  it  may  be  plantd  for  forests  where  it  is  to  grow. 
A  pound  of  the  seed  will  make  from  3000  to  4000 
plants  or  trees.  This  tree  would  soon  furnish  excel- 
lent railroad  ties.  Concerning  wind  breaks,  a  good 
shelter  is  afforded  on  the  prairies  even  by  a  clump  t>f 
hazle  bushes,  with  a  few  scrub  oaks  intermixed,  and 
not  a  tree  over  ten  feet  high.  The  low  but  impene- 
trable thicket  afforded  by  Osage  Orange,  is  a  perfect 
wind  break  for  a  stock  yard  or  for  tender  fruits,  etc. 

Efforts  have  been  made,  and  I  regret  to  add,  by 
my  friend  Mr.  Elliott,  before  mentioned,  to  induce 
the  planting  of  Black  Locust  in  Kansas,  in  the  vain 
hope  that  the  borers  will  not  kill  it.  (This  tree  must 
not  be  confounded  with  the  Honey  or  Thorny  Locust, 
a  short,  stout  tree,  with  long  thorns,  and  with  a 
sweet  substance  in  its  seed  pods,  whence  its  name. 
The  Honey  Locust  is  a  native  of  Kansas,  and  is  per- 
fectly hardy  but  a  slow  grower.)  This  tree  is  so 
easily  grown  from  cheap  seed  and  looks  so  handsome 
and  promising  for  a  few  years,  that  there  is  a  great 
temptation  to  plant  it.  But  it  has  been  tried  over 
and  over  again  in  Kansas  and  it  universally  fails, 
first  or  last,  just  as  it  fails  in  all  prairie  countries, 
after  it  is  about  a  dozen  years  old,  by  its  limbs  being 
cut  at  the  trunk  by  a  borer ;  no  bounty  is  paid  for  it 
it  under  our  State  law.  Prof.  Chas.  V.  Riley,  State 
Entomologist  of  Missouri,  being  quoted  as  saying 
that  it  was  not  injured  by  borers  when  planted  in 
groves,  I  wrote  him,  saying  that  I  believed  the  tree 
should  be  utterly  discarded,  and  received  the  follow- 
ing letter: 

"  Never  give  a  man's  opinion  from  the  curtailed 


158  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

reports  of  what  he  savs.    I  am  often  reported  as 
saying  the  most  outra^ous  things. 

"If  I  were  to  give  my  opinion  in  three  words,  I 
should  state  that  with  regard  to  the  Black  Locust,  you 
are  correct.  There  are,  however,  qualifying  condi- 
tions and  circumstances.  The  borer  is  not  so  bad  on 
high  limestone  lands — may  be  in  a  measure  prevented 
by  the  proper  use  of  soap  and  the  killing  of  the 
beetles  during  September.  The  central  trees  in  large 
groves  are  less  subject  to  attack  than  those  on  the 
outside,  and  where  fuel  or  posts  are  needed  the  young 
trees  will  generally  take  the  place  of  the  old  ones  as 
fast  as  they  are  killed  or  cut  down.  I  have  my 
reasons  for  believing  that  the  tree  should  not  under 
certain  conditions  be  discarded  from  your  Kansas  list; 
but  why  urge  the  Black  Locust,  when  there  are  other 
and  better  trees  ?  Whatever  reporters  make  me  say, 
I  have  never  done  so." 

Hastily,  yours  truly, 

C.  Y.  EILEY. 

The  Chestnut  is  a  valuable  and  beautiful  tree  and 
a  grove  will  well  pay  for  the  trouble  of  cultivation 
simply  by  fattening  swine  on  the  nuts,  to  say  nothing 
of  the  timber.  This  tree,  wherever  I  have  noticed 
it  in  a  natural  forest,  grows  upon  a  light  or  sandy 
soil,  or  at  least  upon  well  drained  land.  It  is  yet 
uncertain  how  it  will  do  on  the  deep,  rich  soil  of 
the  prairies,  or  on  the  drier  western  plains. 

It  is  believed  by  many  of  those  whose  experi- 
ence gives  weight  to  their  opinions,  that  the  Euro- 
pean Larch  is  the  best  tree  for  general  planting. 
As  it  is  propagated  only  from  seeds,  and  requires 
very  skillful  treatment  when  young,  it  is  an  expen- 
sive tree  to  plants  in  quantities.  Robert  Douglas, 
of  Illinois,  who  has  done  very  much  to  bring  this 
tree  before  the  public,  says  :  "  It  is  undoubtedly  the 
most  valuable  timber  tree  for  extensive  planting; 


HEDGES  AND   FOREST   TREES.  159 

combining  the  durability  of  tbe  Ked  Cedar  with, 
rapidity  of  growth,  extreme  hardiness,  freedom  from 
disease  and  adaptability  to  almost  every  soil."  He 
writes  me  however  that  it  ought  to  be  planted  on 
dry  soil,  and  so  say  all  the  cultivators.  A.  J.  Down- 
ing says:  "  It  is  remarkably  heavy,  strong,  and  dura- 
ble, excelling  in  those  qualities  the  best  English 
oaks."  Posts  of  Larch  and  Oak  were  placed  in  the 
river  Thames,  where  by  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  tide 
they  were  alternatly  wet  and  dry.  "  The  oak  posts 
decayed  and  were  twice  removed  while  the  Larch 
remained  altogether  unchanged."  Loudon  says  vine 
props  of  Larch  are  used  in  Switzerland  and  are  trans- 
mitted from  generation  to  generation  an  unknown 
term  of  years,  without  showing  any  signs  of  decay. 
Douglas  says  :  "  In  Great  Britain  the  Larch  has  be- 
come so  popular  for  railroad  ties  that  the  forests  of 
Scotland  are  taxed  to  their  utmost  to  supply  the 
demand." 

He  has  trees  fifteen  years  planted  which  are  45 
inches  in  circumference,  nine  years  from  seed  27 
inches,  and  five  years  from  seed  9  inches  in  circum- 
ference at  the  collar.  Yarious  plantations  of  this 
tree  twelve  year  old  show  it  30  feet  and  upwards  in 
hight  and  10  to  12  inches  in  diameter.  Kobert 
Douglas  &  Son  of  Waukegan,  Illinois,  offer  these 
trees  two  years  old,  6  to  18  inches  high  at  $2  per 
hundred,  $10  per  thousand,  $90  per  10,000,  and  $800 
.per  100,000.  He  offers  the  seed  at  25  cents  per  ounce 
or  $2  50  per  pound. 

There  grows  in  Wisconsin,  Minnesota,  and  the  ad- 
joining portions  of  Illinois  and  Iowa,  a  tree  called 
Poplar,  which  resembles  Aspen,  or  Quaking  Asp. 
Groves  of  it  sprout  up  in  the  same  manner  as  Cotton- 
wood,  standing  thick  on  the  ground  and  rising  20  or 
or  30  feet  with  no  considerable  limbs  and  almost 
uniform  in  size,  from  the  ground  up.  I  have  seen 
this  tree  cut  when  three  to  five  years  old,  and  peeled 


160  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

or  riven  through  the  heart  firm  end  to  end,  and 
nailed  to  posts  for  fence.  I  saw  such  poles  in  Glen- 
coe,  Minnesota,  used  for  fencing  the  village  lots, 
which  were  twelve  years  old  and  perfectly  sound. 
The  tree  is  grown  from  cuttings  like  Cottonwood  and 
is  equally  rapid  in  growth,  while  it  is  better  for  fuel 
and  very  valuable  for  timber  as  the  above  indicates. 
Strange  to  say,  there  are  few  localities  even  where  it 
grows  naturally,  where  the  people  know  that  it  is 
durable  when  the  bark  is  off.  When  rivert  and  fast- 
ened to  posts  the  bark  soon  drops  off.  I  wrote  to 
several  gentlement  of  practical  experience  in  tree 
business,  but  could  get  no  satisfactory  information 
until  the  following  letter  came  to  hand  from  Mr. 
George  Pinney,  of  Sturgeon  Bay,  Wisconsin. 

"  I  think  there  is  no  doubt  but  that  the  tree  you  describe  is  what  we  call 
White  Poplar.  The  name  White  Poplar  is  one  of  our  conventionalities.  The 
botanical  name  is  Pqpulus  Grandidentata.  We  have  named  it  White  Poplar 
because  of  the  white  down  with  which  the  young  leaves  are  covered  in  spring, 
giving  it  the  appearance  ef  being  laden  with  white  blossoms.  It  sometimes 
grows  quite  large.  I  have  seen  them  here  two  feet  in  diameter,  60  to  70  feet 
high.  It  differs  widely  from  Aspen.  The  leaves  are  fully  twice  as  large  and 
much  more  scanty,  it  makes  a  growth  of  two  or  three  times  that  of  the  Aspen, 
and  its  branches  and  buds  are  coarser.  I  have  known  of  well  rooted  trees  in 
favorable  localities,  making  a  growth  of  six  to  ten  feet  in  bight,  increasing  the 
diameter  of  the  stem  from  one  to  two  inches  in  a  single  season.  When  growing 
thick  in  good,  strong  soil,  it  mounts  upward  with  beautiful  straight  trunks, 
•with  amazing  rapidity,  and  uniform  in  size  12  to  25  feet.  As  the  trees  grow 
old  and  large  the  bark  becomes  fluted  and  serriated,  similar  to  the  White  Wood 
or  Poplar  of  the  east,  really  the  Liriodendron  Tulipifera,  The  bark  is  very  thick 
and  stiff,  and  the  laticiferous  tissue  very  abundant,  which  makes  the  bark 
separate  with  great  facility  in  the  spring  during  the  development  of  the  latex. 
The  boys  use  it  in  preference  to  anything  else  for  making  whistles.  The  timber 
when  dried  thoroughly  with  the  bark  off,  is  very  peculiar  in  many  particulars. 
It  is  very  light,  very  stiff  and  springy,  extremely  difficult  to  chop  with  an  axe, 
more  so  than  seasoned  maple  or  oak,  but  very  easy  to  saw  or  shave,  and  seems 
to  be  almost  impermeable  to  water,  hence  very  durable  against  decay  or  wear, 
when  not  permitted  to  come  in  contact  with  the  ground,  but  when  cut  and  left 
with  the  bark  on  it  will  become  cfozy  in  fifty  or  sixty  days,  during  the  grow- 
ing season,  and  worthless  in  three  months.  It  is  very  easy  to  transplant." 

I  have  not  Mr.  Pinney's  prices,  but  this  tree  must 


HEDGES  AND   FOREST   TREES.  161 

be  sold  cheap  as  it  is  so  easily  propagated.  It  is  not 
certain  that  it  will  thrive  in  this  climate,  but  it  is 
reasonable  to  believe  that  it  will,  and  I  recommend 
it,  not  to  take  the  place  of  more  valuable  but  costly 
trees,  but  to  supplant  the  Cottonwood,  of  which  we 
can  only  say  that  it  costs  next  to  nothing,  and  is 
very  much  better  than  no  tree. 

Mr.  D.  C.  Scofield,  a  noted  tree  grower  of  Illinois, 
says:    "The  White  Pine  is  next  in~value  as  a  timber 
tree  to  the  Larch,  nearly  equaling  it  in  growth,  and   • 
will  thrive  well  in  nearly  all  soils;  especially  as  a 
forest  tree  on  dry,  open  prairies. 

"  The  result  of  my  experiments  will  be  seen  in  the 
comparative  growth  of  the  different  varieties  of 
wood,  as  exhibited  in  the  table  below,  from  average 
measurement.  The  age  of  the  trees  is  twelve  years, 
from  seedling  plants  one  and  two  years  old,  and  six 
to  twelve  inches  in  heighth. 

Size  of  trees  in  Illinois,  fourteen  years  old. 

Diameter.  HJght. 

European  Larch 8  to  12  inches 30  feet 

White  Ash ; 3  to  5  "  16  " 

Silver  (or  Soft)  Maple 4  to  6  "  25  " 

Sugar  (or  Hard)  Maple 2  to  4  "  12  " 

Black  Walnut 2  to  4  "  14  " 

Chestnut  (common) 3  te  4  "  16  '• 

American  Larch  (Tamarack) 4  to  6  "  25  " 

American  Elm 3  to  4  "  ».16  " 

Scotch  Elm 3  to  4  "  16  " 

Birch  (European) 4  to  6  " 14  " 

White  Pine 6  to  10  "  35  « 

Norway  Spruce 5  to  8  "  20  " 

Scotch  Pine 4  to  8  "  , 20  " 

Black  Austrian  Pine 5  to  7  "  16  " 

European  Silver  Fir 2  to  4  "  7  « 

Americaa  Fir 4  to  6  "  10  " 

The  growth  of  Black  Walnut  as  above  indicated 
was  very  slow.  Undoubtedly  this  may  be  accounted 
for  by  the  fact  which  Mr.  Scofield  notes  above,  that 
they  were  grown  from  seedling  plants.  The  Black 
Walnut  should  always  be  planted  where  it  is  to  be 
7* 


162  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

grown.  If  transplanted  its  long  tap  root  is  necessa- 
rily cut  in  the  process,  and  this  stops  its  growth  for 
a  long  time.  In  Kansas,  when  grown  where  the 
nuts  are  planted,  its  growth  is  at  least  double  that 
indicated  in  the  above  table. 

In  1866  I  contracted  with  Mr.  S.  T.  Kelsey  for 
the  planting  of  a  forest  on  the  grounds  of  Ottawa 
University,  Franklin  county.  In  1867  fifteen  acres 
were  planted  to  Black  Walnut,  and  five  acres  to  a 
•variety  of  deciduous  and  evergreen  trees.  In  Decem- 
ber, 1870, 1  measured  the  trees,  and  they  averaged  as 
follows : 

Size  of  trees  in  Kansas,  with  the  age  from  seed. 

Diameter.  Hight. 

Black  Walnut,  3  years  old 1  to  2  inches 5  to  8  feet. 

Soft  M»ple,  3  years  old I%to3    "     • 8  to  12    " 

Cottonwood,  3  years  old 2  10  3%    "     .12  to  16    " 

European  Larch,  5  years  old 1  to  3    "     6  to  10    " 

Ked  Cedar,  5  years  old 1  to  3    "     4  to    7     " 

American  Arbor  Vitse, 

5  years  old , 3    " 

Peach  Buds,  1  year  old 1  to  lj^    "    „ 4  to    7    " 

Apricots  and  Nectarines 5  to    8    " 

Apples  and  other  fruit  proportional  size. 

The  European  Larch  plants  were  not  healthy, 
having  been  saved  from  a  large  lot  that  perished. 
These,  as  well  as  the  Cedar  and  Arbor  Yitoe,  were 
planted  on  ground  a  little  too  wet  for  their  natural 
requirements.  The  Ked  Cedar  grows  slowly  after  a 
few  years,  and  never  becomes  a  stately  tree.  Nearly 
all  other  forest  trees  grow  more  rapidly  after  the 
first  three  or  five  years,  until  they  attain  full  size. 

AN  ENGLISHMAN'S  IMPRESSIONS. 

It  affords  me  pleasure  to  present  a  letter  from  the 
Bev.  James  Chew  of  Ottawa,  recently  pastor  of  the 
Congregational  Church,  Mile  End  Eoad,  London, 
.England,  as  it  bears  with  peculiar  force  upon  many 
of  the  topics  treated  in  this  book.  The  subjoined 
correspondence  explains  itself. 


AN  ENGLISHMAN'S  IMPRESSIONS.          163 

Rev.  J.  Chew, 

DEAR  SIR:  You  bare  resided  in  this  State  a  few  mont  hs  and  have  seen  a 
good  deal  of  the  country  and  of  the  people  who  inhabit  it.  Permit  me  to  ask  you 
this  question.  From  the  stand  point  of  an  Englishman  in  America,  what  do 
you  think  of  Kansas  as  a  place  for  a  home?  I  also  beg  leave  to  use  your  letter 
in  the  little  book  I  am  preparing  about  Kansas. 

Wishing  you  abundant  success  in  the  labors  which  are  so  highly  este«med  by 
all  who  enjoy  ycur  ministrations, 

I  remain,  very  respectfully  yours, 

C.  C.  HUTCHINSON. 


OTTAWA,  FRANKLIN  Co.,  KANSAS, 

December  29, 1870. 
Mr.  C.  C.  HutcMnson, 

DEAR  SIR  :  It  affords  me  pleasure  to  give  you  the  impressions  of  an  English- 
man on  Kansas  in  compliance  with  your  request.  There  may  be  those  from 
the  old  csuntry  who,  having  been  longer  in  the  State,  would  be  more  compe- 
tent judges  than  I;  but  during  the  seven  months  of  my  residence  in  it  I  have 
travelled  hundreds  of  miles  north,  south  and  west,  with  my  eyes  open,  and  can 
speak  what  I  do  know  and  testify  what  I  have  seen.  My  friends  in  England 
are  probably  of  opinion  that  my  chief  impression  is  ore  of  general  disappoint- 
ment, seeing  thfit  I  have  been  diverted  from  the  cherished  object  for  which  I 
crossed  the  Atlantic  and  came  so  far  west.  Instead  of  supportirg  my  family 
by  farming  and  preaching  gratis,!  am  again  engaged  in  the  Ministry  solely, 
but  this  change  in  my  plans  has  been  caused,  not  by  the  condition  of  things  I 
have  found  here,  but  by  thep  ersuasions  of  Ministers  and  the  entreaties  of 
others. 

I  confess  to  having  been  omewhat  disappointed  in  some  things.  Land  i», 
higher  in  price  near  towns.  Hired  telp  is  not  so  good,  and  more  difficult  to- 
get ;  clothes,  fuel  and  furniture  are  more  expensive  than  had  been  represented. 
These  are  evils  however  which  (except  in  the  matter  of  land)  will  gradually 
cure  themselves,  or  be  remedied  by  the  growth  of  towns,  the  cultivation  of 
land,  the  influx  of  immigrants,  the  multiplication  of  railways,  the  development 
of  commerce,  etc.  The  climate  is  slightly  different  from  what  I  expected.  The 
heat  was  a  degree  or  two  intenser  in  the  summer  than  I  was  prepared  for, 
although  singularly  tempered  by  the  cooling  breeze  that  came  dailyjand  nightly 
from,  the  south :  a  peculiarity  to  Kansas,  which  the  intense  heat  was  not,  for 
while  exceptional  here  as  every  one  assured  me,  it  prevailed  according  to  the 
telegrams  in  all  the  States  and  in  Europe  as  well.  The  recent  "  snap  "  of  cold 
weather,  said  to  be  the  severest  for  years,  pressed  the  mercury  considerably 
lower  than  I  ever  experienced  it  before,  though  the  clearness  and  dryness  of 
the^atmosphere  prevented  me  being  more  inconvenienced  by  it  than  on  many 
an ;'  ordinary  chilly  day  in  my  native  country.  la  truth  I  felt  it  less.  The 
occasional  sudden  changes  of  temperature  are  decidedly  objectionable,  The 


164  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

fruit  also  (to  mention  all  my  disapointments  together)  was  not  so  abundant  in 
its  season  as  I  had  hoped— books  having  described  Kansaa.a9  a  great  fruit  pro- 
ducing State,  meaning,  as  now  appears,  not  that  it  actually  bears  an  enormous 
yield  of  fruit,  but  is  capable  of  doing  so  eventually.  Give  it  time  and  the 
extraordinary  soil  will  produce  any  quality  and  quantity  of  the  best  fruits, 
but  I  had  stupidly  overlooked  the  fact  that  there  had  hardly  been  time  for 
numerous  fruit  groves  to  be  planted,  still  less  for  them  to  attain  to  a  mellow 
and  prolific  maturity. 

These  are  all  the  things  I  think,  which  are  not  quite  as  good  as  I  anticipated 
With  these  exceptions  I  have  been  agreeably  and  exceedingly  surprised.  The 
climate,  taken  the  year  round,  is  healthful  and  most  enjoyable — sometimes 
so  delightful  that,  as  a  Swede  remarked  to  me  the  other  day,  "  it  could  not  be 
better  if  we  had  the  making  of  it  ourselves."  The  clear  skies,  the  pure,  exhile- 
rating  air,  the  glorious  sunsets,  the  lovely  Indian  summer,  and  even  the  bright, 
bracing  early  part  of  winter,  which  is  not  wintry,  can  be  described  only  in 
language  which  strangers  would  deem  exaggerated.  The  country  is  not  so  flat 
nor  the  scenery  so  monotonous,  nor  the  water  so  scarce,  nor  the  trees  so  small 
and  few,  as  I  feared,  The  Marais  des  Cygnes,  which  curves  one  of  its  windings 
near  my  house,  is  a  truly  beautiful  river,  fringed  on  each  bank  by  a  forest 
which  would  do  credit  to  countries  celebrated  for  their  timber.  Wild  flowers 
in  all  but  endless  variety,  I  have  gathered  in  the  forest  as  well  as  on  the  prairie ; 
notwithstanding  that  I  arrived  too  late  to  behold  Flofa  in  all  the  glory  with 
which  she  decks  herself  in  the  spring,  when  likewise  the  climate  I  am  informed 
wears  one  of  its  fairest  aspects. 

The  inhabitants  are  more  intelligent  and  respectable  than  their  distance  from 
the  centres  of  civilization  would  have  led  one  to  suppose.  All  have  an  independ- 
ent bearing,  shown  at  times  by  some  almost  disagreeably,  arising  partly, 
perhaps,  from  all  of  them — even  the  negroes — being  apparently  in  easy  circum- 
stances. I  have  not  met  with  a  rude  person,  nor  a  beggar,  nor  a  solitary  case  of 
beastly  drunkenness.  Only  seven  or  eight  poor  creatures  have  crossed  my  path 
whose  unsteady  steering  showed  they  were  "half-seas  over."  It  is  amusing  now 
to  recall  the  concern  and  apppehension  which  many,  not  only  on  the  other  side 
of  the  ocean,  but  also  in  American  cities  out  east  betrayed,  when  they  he  ird  that 
ray  family  and  fellow-travellers  were  going  to  Kansas !  They  regarded  the 
outlandish  region  as  a  pandemonium  of  savage  Indians  and  border  ruffians. 
The  ruffianism  I  ha~e  not  discovered,  but  good  society  I  have,  as  educated  and 
refined  as  in  any  place  I  know.  The  institutions,  the  roads,  railways,  laws, 
periodicals,  schools,  universities,  and  alike  in  size,  number  and  style,  the 
churches  are  for  so  young  a  State  a  marvel;  while  the  people,  so  far  as  I  have 
seen,  are  temperate,  enterprising,  Sabbath-observing,  law-abiding,  freedom- 
loving  and  religious.  Folks  at  a  distance  think  of  Kansas  in  connection  with 
her  early  troubles  in  the  cause  of  freedom  and  mistake  them.  They  picture 
her  as  "  Bloody  Kansas,"  rather  than  as  "  Bleeding  Kan«as,"  as  if  she  had  been 
a  persecutor  and  not  a  martyr.  Nay,  she  has  a  noble,  albeit  a  painful  history, 
of  which  all  haters  of  slavery  may  be  proud,  giving  thanks  that  she  bleeds  no 


AN  ENGLISHMAN'S  IMPRESSIONS.          165 

longer,  but  like  the  fa'oled  hero  has  gathered  strength  from  her  reverses,  and 
now  grows  fast,  fair  and  formidable. 

There  is  a  good  sprinkling  of  Englishmen  throughout  the  State.  Several 
colonies  of  them,  notably  at  Wakefield,  near  Junction  City.  Where,  indeed, 
will  you  not  find  Britishers  ?  And  where  can  the  average  Briton  not  make 
himself  at  home?  Yet  would  I  not  advise  my  countrymen  indiscriminately  to 
come  here.  There  are  those  who  would  not  do  as  well  as  at  home.  Persons, 
for  example,  who  have  been  delicately  reared,  and  have  not  means  to  build  a 
house  and  make  themselves  a  comfortable  home  at  once,  would  be  sorely  tried 
here.  Sanguine  souls  who  would  look  for  cent  pieces  lying  like  stones  on  the 
ground  and  dollar  notes  hanging  like  leaves  on  the  trees,  would  curse  the 
place.  Any  who  have  not  the  power  of  adaptation,  with  some  patience  and 
perseverence— who  have  not  learned  to  "  labor  and  to  wait,"  had  better  stay 
where  they  are.  There  is  no  "  roughing  it "  in  the  sense  in  which  that  word  is 
commonly  understood  in  reference  to  new  countries ;  no  scorching  winds  to 
bear  as  in  Australia;  no  dense  forests  to  clear  as  in  Canada;  no  long  winters 
to  endure  as  in  Minnesota ;  yet  are  there  inconveniences,  not  to  say  difficulties, 
at  starting,  and  whoever  cannot  put  up  with  them  will  be  wise  to  seek  a  para- 
dise where  mansions  are  already  prepared  for  them.  Speaking  generally,  capi- 
talists would  do  well,  either  by  loaning  money,  for  which  they  would  easily 
obtain  enormous  interest  on  the  best  security,  or  by  introducing  manufac- 
tures, for  which  there  is  an  urgent  demand,  or  by  raising  grain  and  stock. 
The  hard-handed  sons  of  toil,  used  to  work  and  ready  to  turn  their  hand  to 
anything,  inured  to  privation  and  not  missing  luxuries,  cannot  fail  to  gain 
much  more  than  a  bare  subsistence.  Wages  are  high  and  most  provisions 
cheap.  Farmers  and  farm  labourers,  in  particular,  should  come.  How  often 
have  I  thought  of  the  small  farmers  and  their  hinds,  whom  I  formerly  knew  in 
Cornwall,  Devonshire,  Dorsetshire,  in  the  north  and  other  parts  of  England, 
who  had  been  slaving  for  years  (and  their  fathers  before  them  for  generations) 
on  lands  of  which  they  did  not  own  a  single  rod,  and  any  of  whom,  by  working 
not  near  so  hard  for,  say,  seven  years,  would  have  a  competence,  owning  their 
houses,  farms  and  cattle,  and  having  their  children  educated  in  the  bargain. 
Artisans,  uniting  as  in  co  operative  societies,  would  prosper,  provided  they  did 
not  purchase  land  without  seeing  it,  or  if  they  sent  trustworthy  pioneers  in 
advance,  who  understood  their  business.  Ministers  of  the  Gospel  are  much 
needed.  If  there  be  any  willing  to  labor  with  their  own  hands,  that  they  be 
chargeable  to  none ;  if  any  have  some  private  resources  and  would  be  content 
with  such  remuneration  as  small  churches  can  afford ;  if  any  have  ample  means 
and  would  consider  it  a  sufficient  reward  to  aid  in  laying  the  foundations  of 
society — to  assist  in  forming  the  commercial,  political,  educational  and  moral 
character  of  a  people  surely  destined  to  be  great  and  influential— there  are 
spheres  and  calls  for  them.  Marked  respect  is  paid  to  ministers,  as  I  have 
experienced  and  gratefully  tes'ify. 

I  wouM  add,  sir,  that  intending  emigrants  in  Europe  require  more  informa- 
tion respecting  Kansas,  in  which  the  sunny  and  shady  sides  of  our  young  and 


PRESBYTERIAN    CHURCH,  JUNCTION    CITY. 


INHABITANTS.  167 

flourishing  State  will  be  exhibited  together.    I  am  pleased  to  believe  that  your 
book  will  go  far  towards  supplying  this  want. 

I  remain,  dear  sir,  yours  truly, 

JAMES  CHEW. 

INHABITANTS. 

It  appears  almost  ludicrous  thus  to  head  a  section 
concerning  the  people  who  occupy  the  central  State 
of  the  United  States  of  America.  It  seems  to  beto- 
ken the  discovery  of  an  unknown  country,  and  with 
a  feeling  of  curiosity  akin  to  fear  we  draw  near  to 
study  the  costume  and  customs  of  its  strange  inhabi- 
tants. 

Yet  a  book  about  Kansas  would  be  incomplete 
unless  it  contained  something  concerning  the  people 
who  live  in  Kansas,  especially  as  our  friends  "  within 
the  bounds  of  civilization  "  have  decidedly  erroneous 
opinions  concerning  us.  Those  who  take  the  trouble 
to  examine  what  is  shown  in  these  pages  about  the 
institutions  of  Kansas — its  Churches,  Schools,  News- 
papers, Railroads,  Cities  and  Public  Buildings  must 
conclude  that  although  distant  from  the  homes  of 
our  fathers  we  have  not  lapsed  into  barbarism.  In 
fact  we  all  had  fathers  and  mothers  who  lived  in 
"  the  East,"  or  some  other  place,  and  it  is  but  a  few 
years  since  we  left  those  dear  old  homesteads  to 
make  homes  for  ourselves  on  these  lovely  prairies. 
The  light  has  gone  out  from  many  of  the  places 
where  we  once  lived  and  loved,  but  all  the  way  from 
the  Mississippi  to  the  Atlantic,  and  even  beyond  its 
billows,  there  are  fires  burning  on  hearth  stones  at 
which  we  find  a  welcome  and  a  chair.  Those  people 
at  the  East  who  suppose  that  Kansans  are  necessa- 
rily uncouth  and  ignorant,  will  do  well  to  reflect  for 
a  moment  as  to  the  character  of  those  who  have  left 
their  own  vicinity  for  distant  "Western  States.  They 
know  too  well  that  the  best  blood  and  brain  of  the 
Eastern,  Middle,  and  Southern  States  is  seeking  for 


168  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

itself  a  new  domain  in  the  boundless  West.  Do  all 
these  people  forget  their  cunning  because  they 
"  come  to  Kansas?"  Let  their  institutions  and  their 
works  answer  for  them. 

No  other  State  ever  had  among  its  early  settlers 
so  many  well  educated  men  and  women  as  Kansas. 
There  were  seventy  college  graduates  among  the  foui 
hundred  voters  at  the  first  election  held  in  Lawrence. 

It  was  formerly  one  of  the  staple  objections  against 
coming  West,  that  there  were  so  many  foreigners 
here,  but  now  there  are  nearly  as  many  in  the  East 
as  in  the  West  in  proportion  to  population,  especially 
in  New  England,  which  is  fast  becoming  old  Ireland. 
There  are  comparatively  few  foreigners  in  Kansas, 
but  we  heartily  wish  there  were  more  of  the  same 
sort.  Here  there  is  "room  and  verge  enough  for  all," 
whether  they  pronounce  our  "Shibboleth"  or  not. 

Wm.  H.  Seward  once  said  in  a  public  speech : 
"  The  people  of  Kansas  are  the  most  intelligent,  the 
most  virtuous  and  the  bravest  people  in  the  world." 

NEWSPAPERS. 

Among  the  foremost  and  most  important  agencies 
which  have  contributed  to  the  growth  of  Kansas,  is 
its  newspaper  press.  Atchison,  Leavenworth,  Law- 
rence, Topeka,  Fort  Scott  and  Emporia,  all  have  daily 
newspapers,  and  in  size  and  general  appearance  they 
compare  favorably  with  average  eastern  papers.  It 
is  a  surprise  to  all  strangers  that  such  papers  can  be 
sustained  in  towns  of  no  greater  size.  Our  daily 
and  weekly  papers  are  so  numerous  and  so  merito- 
rious that  it  would  be  at  once  tiresome  and  invidious 
to  mention  any  in  particular,  but  I  may  allude  to 
the  Kansas  Farmer,  published  monthly  at  Leaven- 
worth,  which  has  acquired  an  enviable  position 
among  its  cotemporaries  throughout  the  United 
States,  both  as  to  matter  and  appearance.  One  de- 


NEWSPAPERS.  169 

servedly  successful  monthly,  the  Educational  Journal, 
of  Ernporia,  is  devoted  exclusively  to  the  cause  of 
education,  and  monthly  or  quarterly  issues  are  made 
of  religious  publications.  Another  class  of  papers 
extensively  published  in  Kansas  is  devoted  exclu- 
sively to  the  real  estate  business.  They  are  issued 
by  private  firms  for  gratuitous  distribution,  and  con- 
tain valuable  information. 

The  first  settlers  of  Kansas  were  men  of  brains 
and  men  of  business,  and  they  were  moved  to  Kan- 
sas by  an  idea.  Under  whichever  banner  they 
ranged,  whether  of  freedom  or  of  slavery,  it  is  un- 
questionable that  they  were  terribly  in  earnest.  In 
such  a  community  a  weak  and  inconstant  press  could 
find  no  support.  From  this,  among  other  causes,  it 
has  come  about  that  no  other  State  in  the  Union 
has  proportionally  so  many  newspapers  as  Kansas, 
and  nowhere  else  do  country  papers  present  so  good 
an  appearance  and  give  such  evidence  of  editorial 
ability.  Many  names  famous  in  the  eastern  news- 
paper world  are  familiar  to  Kansas.  Horace  White, 
of  the  Chicago  Tribune;  James  Eedpath,  of  Boston; 
the  lamented  Albert  D.  Eichardson,  of  the  New  York 
Tribune;  John  Swinton,  of  the  New  York  Times; 
Col  .Samuel  F.  Tappan,  .Richard  J.  Hinton  and  Wm 
Hutchinson,  Washington  correspondents  of  eastern 
papers;  J.  M.  Winchell,  formerly  of  the  New  York 
Times;  Col.  Wm.  A.  Phillips,  of  the  New  York 
Tribune  and  The  Nation,  but  still  a  resident  of  Kansas 
— these  and  many  other  names  of  prominence,  were 
once  connected  with  the  Kansas  press.  Not  alone 
in  aiding  the  struggle  for  freedom  during  our  early 
history,  nor  yet  entirely  in  disseminating  informa- 
tion as  to  the  soil,  climate  and  productions  of  Kansas, 
have  the  newspapers  of  Kansas  helped  the  State  to 
achieve  its  triumphant  success.  The  press  of  this 
State  has  been  first  and  foremost  in  promoting  every 
8 


170  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

effort  for  developing  the  best  interests  of  the  State. 
Men  of  character  locating  in  our  border  have  been 
welcomed  by  name,  and  gratuitous  advertisement 
has  been  given  of  the  merits  of  improved  machinery 
or  valuable  stock.  Whenever  new  and  attractive 
fields  of  immigration  have  been  opened  in  remote 
counties,  the  press  of  the  older  settlements  have 
been  first  to  herald  the  facts.  The  best  methods  of 
tilling  the  soil,  of  harvesting  the  crops  and  of  caring 
for  the  stock  are  obtained  from  experienced  farmers 
and  published  by  our  sagacious  newspapers,  and 
a  generous  rivalry  is  maintained  between  farmers, 
neighborhoods,  towns,  and  counties  by  the  printed 
reports  of  progress  among  all. 

Hail  roads,  those  necessary  avenues  or  travel  and 
transit,  have  been  built  in  Kansas  with  greater  rapid- 
ity than  in  any  other  state  in  the  Union,  but  the 
influence  of  newspapers  in  preparing  the  way  for 
their  construction  is  appreciated  by  very  few.  Kail- 
road  projects  must  always  take  shape  by  the  action 
of  the  people  living  upon  the  proposed  line.  They 
alone  can  afford  to  contribute  the  time  and  money 
necessary  to  perfect  an  organization,  to  obtain  a  sur- 
vey and  engineer's  estimates,  and  to  secure  franchises 
of  lands  and  bonds,  and  local  subscriptions,  and  it  is 
only  when  these  things  arj  done  that  capitalists  ca-n 
be  induced  to  look  at  the  enterprise.  Towards  the 
accomplishment  of  this  tedious,  tiresome,  thankless 
task  the  press  of  the  state  has  always  freely  contrib- 
uted its  invaluable  aid.  Notices  of  meetings,  descrip- 
tion of  routes,  labored  editorials,  columns  of  statis- 
tics and  a  startling  array  of  figures,  all  have  been 
issued  gratuitously  and  in  profusion. 

Manufactures,  schools,  churches,  villages  towns, 
cities,  have  all  received  the  support  of  the  Kansas 
press.  In  short  our  newspapers  have  never  failed  to 
hold  up  to  the  public,  the  mirror  of  to-day  and  have 


NEWSPAPERS.  171 

painted   without   stint   of  color,  the  possibilities   of 
to-morrow. 

[Extract  from  an  address  delirered  before  the  Editors'  and  Publishers'  Associ 
ation  of  Kansas,  January  17,  1871,  by  Ward  Curlingame,  Esq.] 

"Why  is  it  that  Kansas  has  a  greater  number  of 
newspapers  than  any  other  equal  population  in  the 
world?  It  is  not  because  our  people  are  peculiarly 
a  reading  people,  because  in  that  respect  other  locali- 
ties rival  us.  Nor  is  it  because  the  newspaper  busi- 
ness is  productive  of  large  and  prompt  pecuniary 
results;  for  I  much  doubt  whether  there  is  any  other 
branch  of  business,  employing  the  same  labor  and 
capital,  the  gains  of  which  are  so  small  and  precari- 
ous. The  true  explanation  of  the  circumstance  is 
found  in  the  fact  that  Kansas  is  in  its  formative 
state;  everything  is  growing,  nothing  completed  'r 
the  map  of  a  year  ago  is  out  of  date  to  day ;  towns, 
cities,  villages,  are  springing  up  on  every  hand  ;  large 
bodies  of  land  just  vacated  by  worthless  and  semi- 
barbarous  tribes,  are  yielding  to  the  impress  of  set- 
tlement and  civilization  ;  agriculture  encroaches  upon 
the  desert;  immigrants  from  every  State  and  of 
every  nationality  are  flocking  to  our  borders ;  rail- 
ways penetrate  unpeopled  regions,  and  from  nothing 
thriving  communities  are  evolved  by  their  mysterious 
influence. 

"In  securing  these  results  the  press  is  an  active  and 
powerful  agent.  Hence,  new  towns,  new  interests 
invoke  their  co-operation.  Among  the  earliest  of 
the  pioneers  is  found  the  country  editor — among  the 
earliest  of  local  institutions  the  country  press.  Ex- 
panding beyond  the  necessities  of  the  present,  it 
builds  upon  the  -prospects  of  the  future,  and  thus, 
blending  an  individual  with  a  patriotic  purpose,  it 
strives  with  admirable  and  ever-restless  zeal  for  the 
realization  of  those  prospects  through  the  develop- 
ment of  its  section.  It  is  surprising  to  note  that 
newspapers,  and  good  ones,  too,  are  maintained  in 


172  IIUICUISSOA'S  KANSAS. 

localities  where  we  would  not  deem  it  possible  were 
the  fact  not  apparent.  This  state  of  affairs  is  itself 
-an  eloquent  tribute  not  alone  to  the  energy,  persever- 
ance and  pluck  of  newspaper  men,  but  also  to  the 
practical  good  sense  and  wise  forethought  of  the 
people  who  sustain  them." 

If  any  persons  outside  of  Kansas  do  not  decide 
to  start  for  Kansas  immediately  after  reading  this 
book,  they  are  advised  to  select  a  paper  from  the 
following  lists,  and  send  to  its  address  the  price  oi  a 
year's  subscription.  If  they  do  not  find  in  its  columns 
all  the  information  they  desire,  they  have  only  to 
inform  the  editor  who  will  gladly  print  such  state- 
ments as  will  meet  the  case. 

Citizens  of  Kansas  should  give  to  their  local  papers 
a  liberal  support.  The  man  who  does  not  take  one 
or  more  papers  published  in  his  county,  commits  a 
crime  against  his  own  neighborhood.  Help  your 
papers — subscribe  for  them  and  urge  others  to  sub- 
scribe— furnish  them  advertising  and  give  items  to 
the  editors  concerning  all  matters  which  interest  you. 
Anything  which  interests  you  will  be  quite  certain 
to  intere&t  the  editor  and  his  readers.  In  short,  help 
your  editor  and  he  will  help  you, 

List  of  Newspapers  Published  in  Kansas. 

The  following  list  embraces  all  the  names  of  papers 
that  I  can  obtain  at  the  time  of  going  to  press.  New 
ones  are  coming  out  every  week,  and  it  is  safe  to  say 
that  there  are  one  hundred  papers  issued  regularly 
in  Kansas,  aside  from  the  real  estate  papers.  I  have 
also  collected  as  full  a  list  of  the  latter  papers  as  pos- 
sible, which  is  quite  incomplete  however.  The  real 
estate  papers  are  issued  once  a  quarter  or  once  a 
month,  and  are  sent  free  to  all. 

The  newspapers  are  sent  for  $2  per  annum,  except- 
ing the  Kansas  Farmer,  $1,  and  the  Educational 


NEWSPAPERS.  173 

Journal,  SI  50,  find  the  Medical  Herald,  $3  per  annum. 
Only  the  last  or  principal  names  are  given.  The 
list  is  arran<r^d  alphabetically  in  reference  to  towns, 
and  this  will  servo  to  show  at  a  glance  in  what 
county  the  prim-ipnl  towns  are  situated,  and  also  the 
county  seats.  1  am  indebted  to  Mills  &  Smith,  of 
Tola,  and  Emmert  &  McCulloch,  of  Humboldt,  for 
assistance  in  preparing  this  list. 

County  seats  in  CAPS,    d  stands  for  daily,  w  for  weekly,  and  m  for  monthly. 

Town.  Bounty.  Namt  of  Paper. 

ATCHIFON  ...............  .....  Atchison  ........................  Champion,  d  and  w  .......... 

"  .....................        "         ........................  Patriot,  d  and  w  ............... 

Altoona  ...........................  Wilion  ...........................  U"ion,  w  ........................ 

Arkansas  City  ..................  Cowley  ...........................  Trave  er,  w  ..................... 

Augusta  ..........................  Butler  ...........................  Crescent,  w  ..................... 

ALMA.    ..........................  Wabaunsee  ....................  Union,  w  ..........  „  ............ 

Baxter  Springs  ................  Cherokee  .....................  Fenfire]   w  ...................... 

WJRIIWQTO*  .....  -  ........  Coney  ................  .  ..........  I'atri-t,  w  ....................... 

BURLINvJAME  ................  0*age  .............................  CiimniHe,  w  .................... 

BBLOTT  ........................  Mitchell  ........................  Mirror   w  ..................  ...... 

BELLEVILLE  .................  Republic  .........................  Te  escope,  w  .................... 

Chetopa  ...........................  Labette  .........................    dvance    w  ..................... 

COLUMBUS  ....................  Cherokee  .......................  Journal,  w  ....................... 

"  .....................         "  .....................  Independent,  w  ..............  . 

COUNCIL  GROVE  ...........  Morris  .  ...  .......................  Democrat,  w  .................... 

C  'NCORDIA  ...................  Cloud  .............................  Empire  w  ........................ 

Clvde  ..............................      "     .............................  Watchman  w  ................... 

CO'iTOVWOOD  FALLS..  ..Chase  .............................  Leader,  w  ........................ 

CLAYCENTRK  ...............  Clay  ...................................................................... 

ELDORADO  .....................  Butler  ....................  ........  Times,  w  .......................... 

EMPORIA  .......................  Lyon  ..............................  Ne    s,  d  and  w  ................. 

"         .......................     "     ..............................  Tri'  une.  w  .....................  . 

"         .......................     "     ..............................  Educational  Journal,  m.... 

Erie  ................................  Neosho  ...........................  I-h  »a«'ite,  w  .................. 

EUREKA  .......................  Greenwood  .......................  Hem  <\,  w  ....................... 

E!k  Falls  ........................  Howard  ...........................  Exa.?rner,  w  ................... 

Elk  City  ..........................  Montgomery  ....................  Star,  w  .......................... 

FORT  SCOTT  ...................  Bourbo-.  ..........................  M-mir  r.  d  and  w  ............. 

"  ..................        "         .........................  Democrat,  W  .................... 

Fra>ik*brt  ........................  M-  -shall  ........................  New  Home,  w  .................. 

Fontana  .........................  viami  ............................  ''azett^,  w  ....................... 

Florence  .........................  Marion  ...........................  Pioneer,  w  ....................... 

FREDONIA  ....................  Wilson  ..........................  Journal,  w  ....................... 

OARNETT  .....................  Ander-on  ........................  Pl-.in  Pealer.  w  ............... 

GTRABD  .........................  Crawford  ........................  Pre  s,  w  ......................... 

HIAWATHA  ..................  Brown  .............................  Pent"  el,  w  ...................... 


Allen  .............................  Un« 


, 
H0f  TOV  .......................  J»"'  -son  ..........................  New,  w 

tOLA  ...............................  \  ten  ..............................  Regi«t  r,  w 

Irving  .............................  Marshall  ........................  Hecorder,  w  .....  , 


174 


HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 


Town.  County.  Name  of  Paper. 

INDEPENDENCE Montgomery,. Tribune,  w 

Montgomery Republican,  w 

"  "          Democrat,  w , 

JUNCTION  CITY Davis Union,   w 

LAWRENCE Douglas Journal,  d  and  w , 

''       Tribune,  d  and  w 

"      Democratic  Standard,  \ 

"       Fanner,  (German)  w.... 

LEAVENWORTII Leavenworth Times,  d  and  w 

Bulletin,  d  and  w 

Commercial,  d  and  w... 

Call,  d 

Farm<  r,  m 

Gardener,  m 

< Presse,  (German)  w , 

Medical  Herald,  m , 

LA  CYGNE Linn Journal  w 

LYNDON Osage ..Signal,  w 

Labe'te. Labette Sentinel,  w 

LOUIS  VIL'  E Pottawatemie Reporter,  w 

Lpngtoii Howard Ledger,  w 

Lindsay Ottawa Pioneer,  w 

MINNEAPOLIS "      Independent,  w 

"      Settler,  w 

MARIOV  CENTRE Marion Western  Giant,  w 

MANHATTAN Riley Nationalist,  w 

Medina Jefferson Ntw  Era,  w 

Mound  City Linn  Sentinel,  w 

MARYfeVILLB Marshall Locomotive,  w 

NEOSHO  FALLS Woodson Advert  ser,  w 

Netawaka Jackson Herald,   w 

New  Chicago Neo»ho Transcript,  w 

Jfeodosha Wilson ^Citizen,  w 

"  "       Enterprise,  w 

North  Topeka Shawnee Times,  w 

OLATHE Johnson Mirror,  w 

"         "       News  Letter,  w 

Oaage  Mission Neosho Journal,  w 

OSKALOOSA Jefferson  , Independent,  w 

"  , "         Statesman,  w 

OSWEGO Lal'Otte Register,  w 

OTTAWA Franklin  Journal,  w 

"        Herald,  w { 

PAOLA Miami  Republic  an,  w 

Pleasauton Linn  Press,  w 

Parker  Montgomery Record,  w 

Parsons Labette Sun,  w 

gALINA  Saline Herald,  w 

"        "    Journal,  w 

SENAC A Nemaha Courrier,  w 

Spring  Hill Johnson Enterprise,  w 

TOPEKA Shawnee. Commonwealth,  d  and 

"         "        Record,  d  and  w 

TEOY Doniphan  Republican,  w 

Thayer Neo-tho Criterion,  w 

Wathena Doniphan Reporter,  w 

Wamego PoUwattomie Valley,  w 

WASHINGTON Washington Republican,  w 

Waterville  Marshall Telegraph,  w 


REAL    ESTATE    PAPERS. 


175 


Town.  County. 

White  Cloud Doniphan 

WYANDOTTE   Wyandotte 

WICHITA Sedgwick 


WINFIELD Cowley 


Name  of  Paper. 

Chief,  w 

Gazette,  w «... 

Vide  te,  w „ 

, Tribnne,  w 

Censor,  w , 


REAL  ESTATE    PAPERS. 


.Atchison  Northern  Kansan 


Atchison 

•'         Index  

Burlington Coffie Free  West 

"  "     Resistor   

Burlinpame Osage  Journal  

Council  Grove Morris Advertiser 

Cottonwi  od  Falls Cba^e  Register , 

Emporia Lyon Reg  ster 

"       "     Bullen'n 

"       "     Heporer 

Eskridge  Waubocsee Land  Mark  ;-. 

Fort  Scott Bourbon Immigrant  

"         "        Rec-'rd  

Garnett Anderson Intfex -  • 

Humboldt Allen Reporter  

Holton Jackson  Bulletin 

Junction  City Davis   Register 

"  "       Guide  

Lawrence Douglas A^v  cate , 

Manhattan Rilcy Home  ffsul  

Olathe J«ht:Fon Register   

Ottawa Franklin  Gui<!e  

"      "        Pioneer 

"      "        Register 

Pomona "        Pomona  1'ora-Horoe 

PJeasanton Linn  Fanner 

St.  Marys Pottawatomie .Advertiser  .      

Topeka Shawnee.... Advertiser 

"       ". Star  of  Emiire ... 

"      '        Publisher 

Wak^field C'ay Heiald  

Winfiehl Cowley ^etUers  Guide 


176 


COMMON    SCHOOLS, 


The  common  school  system  of  Kansas  is  modeled 
after  the  most  approved  systems  of  other  states  with 
such  amendments  as  experience  elsewhere  has 
shown  to  be  desirable.  Sections  16  and  36  in  each 
township  in  the  state  are  forever  set  apart  for  the 
creation  of  a  fund  the  interest  of  which  is  to  be  used 
for  the  payment  of  teachers.  School  lands  may  be 
sold  upon  petition  of  the  residents  of  the  county 
where  thej'  are  situated.  The  proceeds  are  invested 
in  Kansas  State,  or  United  States  Bonds  and  the 
interest  only  is  applied  to  the  payment  of  teachers 
wages,  in  proportion  to  the  number  of  persons  in 
each  district  between  five  and  twenty-one  years  of  age. 

The  above  sections  are  secured  for  school  purposes 
out  of  the  Osage  Trust  Lands,  but  a  few  smaller 
Indian  reservations  were  exempt,  as  well  as  small 
military  reservations.  Were  it  not  for  these  reser- 
vations there  would  be  devoted  to  this  purpose  one- 
eighteenth  part  of  the  whole  state  (there  being  36 
flections  in  each  township)  which  would  make  about 
5000  square  miles  of  640  acres  each,  or  3,200,000 
acres.  The  amount  cannot  be  less  than  3.000,000 
acres.  About  200.000  acres  of  school  land  were  sold 
during  the  year  1870  at  an  average  of  about  §6  20 
per  acre.  The  school  lands  are  not  put  upon  the 
market  in  any  county  until  they  are  in  demand  and 
by  law  cannot  be  sold  for  less  than  $3  per  acre, 
and  it  is  fair  to  estimate  their  value  throughout  the 
state  at  $4  per  acre.  This  will  give  a  fund  of  $12,- 
000,000,  sacredly  devoted  to  the  cause  of  education. 

The  following  tables  are  compiled  from  the  Tenth 
Annual  Report  of  the  Superintendent  of  Public  In- 
struction. 


COMMON    SCHOOL!?. 


177 


TABLE  thawing  the  StatiAict  of  the  Public  Schools  of  1STO  in  **»?  0*0*9 

then  organized. 


COUNTIES. 


Ailen 

AaiMM  H 
Atcbiaon ... 
Bourbon  ... 

Brown 

Batler 

Chase 

CUy  .... 
Cr-.-*-  -  i  ... 
Cb«rokee... 
Cloud 

f.      "-J        

i>.  UMM~ 

D  •  „•.:'.  . 
l>  $m  .... 

E  .--*  :•'':.. 
Frank!!:,  .... 

''j-^-r.-*    -..  J 

Ja  k-    r,    .... 

feftom  . 

J«tM    r.   .... 


UM 

L 


•::: 


t£Hm~ 

I-',-  Ml 


Morris 


Ot  awa 

Potow 

R.!-v 


S^dewiek 

W«i  «ui>mj« 

Wa-tuegton 

Wita*. 

W-otom 

Wjndotte 

Total,  ____ 


I? 

"44 
41 
R 

74 
H 

M 
• 
30 

M 

7.' 

2-, 

..... 

-7 

m 

7- 

7 

05 

:o 

-.' 
~> 
00 
7  • 
84 
If 

7 
R 

7 


M 


42 


u 


1/01 


10 


M 
7- 

n 
u 

• 


27 

II 

101 

117 

:> 

n 


Ml 


77 

13 

72 


1,392 

MM 

ffl 


-'-7 
j  4.;-- 


347 

MU 


H8 

j  tti 

•  1   4 


1,333 

• 

2,470 
019 


414 


751 


$27.777   f» 

•CtM 

l-rjri'j  r 

41. 2--  li 

S7  ''-'7  ft 

-  >  .',  f 

U7M  " 

I  M  pi 

M«  n 

HS .'" 

2-  IV-    | 
14^40  O 

4".-il     ' 

utjote  t 

,..  ,, 


I.12S 

35^0000 
0873400 
44.01000 
220*000 
177,757  75 
3*330  W 


33,11500 


•f>':4    'J" 

17,745  00 

"s^i'is'w 

11  4^0  •>• 
W-'-iO  K; 


10^400 
125,00000 


11.45500 


01.150  «0 


$1.80400 

UM  V) 
MM  --o 

2  R  •  '/> 

MM  'o 

70000 

1  0  O  HO 

15075 

Mfl  '/» 

74000 

5000 


51500 

:  4  •     '/i 
7,19800 

2^120  00 

]'•  .-0 


3.001  no 

I7.yo  ]=; 

_'  '-J  '0 


1.232  50 

~3603"rtj 
7(O  OU 


ww 

4,-».  O'J 

4V-  00 

1.044  '.0 

l&  W 

41-'  O-J 


2^40  03^18  $1,520,041  4^$IO0^15  fO 


178 


HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 


TABLE  showing  tfie  comparative  advance  of  the  Public  Schools  of  Kansas  for 
ten  years,  from  1861  to  1870  inclusive. 


YBAR. 

1861. 
1862. 
1863. 
1864. 
1865. 
1866. 
1867. 
1868.  . 
1869... 
1870... 

be 

i 

"o 
O 

"5 

d 
S5 

12 
28 
33 
33 
35 
37 
42 
43 
43 
47 

*g 

1! 

"1 
*r 

Average 
time 
sclool 
taught. 

NO.  TEACHERS   EMPI/D 

AVER'GE  SAL'Y 

PER  MONTH. 

| 
o  § 

Ij 

i 
•a 

8 

i 

"3 

H 

I 

Females. 

Mon'hp. 

144 

304 
506 
640 
721 
871 
1,066 
1,232 
1,621 
1,950 

3.2 
3.8 
3.5 
3.4 
4. 
4.3 
5. 
5. 
52 

90 
16i 
205 
247 
405 
541 
746 
896 
1,079 

229 
400 
527 
652 
681 
664 
855 
1.118 
i;i6i 

$       10,432  50 
32,970  60 
76,500  71 
122,822  64 
318,897  31 
573,690  08 
813,062  75 
1,031,  £92  00 
1,520,041  40 

584 
732 
899 
1,086 
1,205 
1,601 
2014 
2,200 

$27  00 
46  74 
41  27 
39  44 
39  56 
37  07 
39  60 

$16  10 
34  41 
28  90 
26  51 
29  08 
28  98 
31  10 

The  reports  show  that  out  of  359  school  houses 
built  during  1870,  45  were  built  of  logs.  The  aver- 
age per  cent,  levied  in  1870  fcr  the  erection  of  build- 
ings and  all  other  purposes,  was  $0.0347.  The  total 
amount  received  by  the  school  district  treasurers 
from  all  sources  for  1870,  was  $799,318.51,  and  the 
total  amount  paid  out  was  $712,601.73. 

In  all  towns  of  any  considerable  size  there  are- 
graded  schools,  and  one  or  more  central  st  hool  build- 
ings, costing  from  $5,000  to  $75,000  and  other  smaller 
buildings,  as  the  public  needs  require.  All  these 
schools  are  open  and  free,  being  supported  by  the 
State  school  money,  and  by  direct  taxation.  There 
are  salaried  county  superintendents  in  each  county 
whose  duty  it  is  to  give  direct  personal  supervision 
to  matters  connected  with  public  schools,  besides 
which  each  city  has  its  superintendent.  There  are 
two  Normal  schools,  one  at  Leaven  worth  and  the 
other  at  Emporia.  That  at  the  former  city  was  but 
recently  opened.  That  at  Emporia  has  been  in  suc- 
cessful operation  for  six  years.  The  attendance  for 
1870  was  111  males,  132  females.  It  is  devoted  to 


COMMON    SCHOOLS.  179 

the  work  of  fitting  its  pupils  to  become  teachers  in 
our  common  schools,  and  is  supported  by  the  State. 
The  State  Agricultural  college  at  Manhattan  is 
endowed  by  a'land  grant  of  70,000  acres  of  land.  It 
also  receives  State  aid  and  is  in  a  prosperous  condi- 
tion. 

The  State  University  at  Lawrence  is  open  to  all 
of  both  sexes  without  tuition  fee.    Its  endowment  is 


LINCOLN    SCHOOL,  TOPEKA. 

46,000  acres  of  well  located  land,  and  about  $150^000 
contributed  to  it  for  buildings,  etc.,  chiefly  by  the 
city  of  Lawrence.  It  has  a  permanent  fund  of  $10,- 
000  contributed  by  Amos  Lawrence  of  Boston,  and 
aparatus  costing  $15,000.  It  has  nine  salaried  pro- 
fessors, and  fitly  crowns  the  splendid  school  system 
of  this  state,  by  offering  an  education  of  high  char- 
acter free  to  all.  Its  students  for  1870  were  97  males 
and  116  females.  Its  buildings  are  illustrated  and 
described  elsewhere. 


180 

Besides  the  State  Institutions  of  learning  already 
mentioned,  there  are  several  well  established  schools 
of  high  grade,  under  denominational  control. 
Among  them  is  Baker  University,  at  Baldwin  City, 
and  Collegiate  Institute  at  Hartford,  under  the  M.  E. 
Church  ;  Washburn  College.  Topeka,  Congregational; 
Episcopal  Female  Seminary,  Topeka;  Lane  Univer- 
sity, Lecompton,  United  Brethren  ;  Ottawa  Univer- 
sity, Baptist;  Wetmore  Institute,  Irving,  Presbyte- 
rian ;  Koman  Catholic  Colleges  at  Leavenworth, 
Atchison,  St.  Mary's,  Topeka,  Fort  Scott,  and  else- 
where ;  and  various  other  lesser  academies  and  pri- 
vate schools. 

BENEVOLENT    AND    REFORMATORY    INSTITUTIONS. 

A  large  and  well  ordered  State's  Prison  is  located 
near  by  Leavenworth.  The  State  Asylum  for  the 
Blind  is  located  at  Wyandotte  ;  that  for  the  Deaf  and 
Dumb  at  Olathe;  and  the  Insane  As3Tlum  at  Osa- 
watomie.  These  institutions  are  all  under  the  guar- 
dianship of  the  State  authorities  and  are  supplied 
with  convenient  buildings  and  necessary  attendants. 


THE  CHURCHES  AND  THE  CLERGY. 

The  following  article  upon  the  above  topic  was 
prepared  at  my  request  by  TJev.  Tl.  Cordley,  the  well 
known  pastor  of  the  Congregational  Church  at  Law- 
rence, which  position  he  has  filled  with  great  accep- 
tance for  fourteen  years  : 

11  The  early  settlers  of  Kansas  included  a  large  pro- 
portion of  religious  men.  This  might  have  been 
expected,  as  a  largo  share  of  these  settlers  came  as 
a  matter  of  conscience,  to  establish  tr^odom  and 
equal  rights  en  these  plains  of  the  west.  One  of 
the  first  things  they  did  after  setting  up  a  tent  or 


THE   CHURCHES   AND   THE   CLERGY.  181 

building  a  hut  to  shelter  their  families,  was  to  pro 
vide  churches  and  schools,  where  these  families 
might  worship  and  be  instructed.  Eeligion  and 
learning  were  among  their  first  thoughts.  In  Law- 
rence, for  example,  in  one  month  after  the  first 
company  of  immigrants  arrived,  regular  religious 
services  were  established  with  a  settled  minister. 
Steps  were  at  once  taken  for  building  at  least  two 
churches.  In  other  places,  church  organizations, 
with  tbeir  pastors,  went  with  the  colonies  in  the 
btyle  of  the  Mayflower  pilgrims.  One  of  the  first 
things  now  in  a  new  town,  is  to  build  a  church,  and 
these  churches  are  generally  well  sustained,  and  are 
doing  a  good  work.  There  is  great  liberality  in 
maintaining  Christian  institutions,  and  no  people,  in 
proportion  to  their  means,  pay  more  freely  for 
religious  objects  than  the  people  of  Kansas.  Within 
the^  last  three  or  four  years,  some  very  handsome 
churches  have  been  built.  In  Leaven  worth  the  Cath- 
olics have  a  cathedral  that  cost  some  $250. 009.  The 
Baptists  have  about  completed  a  very  fine  church  in 
the  same  citjT  that  has  cost  some  $60,000.  At  Atch- 
ison  the  Methodists  are  building  a  very  handsome 
structure.  In  Lawrence  the  Congregationalisms  have 
a  church  that  has  attracted  general  attention  for  its 
completeness  and  beauty.  Its  cost  was  about 
$45,000. 

"All  denominations  are  represented  in  Kansas. 
The  Methodists  take  the  lead  in  membership,  the 
Baptists  coming  next.  The  Presbyterians  are  quite 
strong.  Especially  in  the  south  part  of  the  State. 
The  Congregationalists  have  some  strong  societies 
and  are  quite  numerous,  especially  in  the  northern 
part  of  the  State  The  Episcopalians  are  very  active, 
and  exhibit  a  missionary  zeal  that  is  commendable. 
There  is  generally  the  kindest  feeling  between  differ- 
ent denominations.  All  joining  in  the  common  work, 
rather  than  trying  to  supplant  each  other.  The 


182  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

churches  have  generally  come  to  the  wise  conclusion 
that  they  can  prosper  better  in  the  general  pros- 
perity of  all,  than  in  mere  denominational  expansion, 
which  builds  one  up  by  pulling  another  down. 

"  The  Kansas  churches  generally  have  an  able  min- 
istry, more  than  usually  so  for  a  new  country.  While 
there  are  no  'stars'  that  attract  special  attention, 
the  ministry  generally  are  cultivated,  earnest  men, 
and  up  to  the  times.  They  are  '  workmen  that 
need  not  to  be  ashamed.' 

"  The  churches  are  having  a  healthy  growth.  They 
are  growing  both  by  immigration  and  conversion. 
Special  interest  is  reported  in  man}'  places,  and 
every  season  witnesses  more  or  less  of  the  fruits  of 
such  special  interest.  The  religious  future  of  Kan- 
sas is  as  bright  as  that  of  any  new  State.  There 
are  dangers,  but  there  are  also  promising  signs.  The 
churches  are  sound,  outspoken  and  aggressive.  They 
work  as  if  they  meant  to  '  occupy  the  land.'  " 

TAXES. 

By  the  constitution,  the  state  debt  of  Kansas  can- 
not exceed  one  million  dollars.  :No  town,  county,  or 
state  debts  were  incurred  during  the  war,  as  Kansas 
volunteers  always  kept  up  the  state  quota.  Taxes 
are  less  than  most  states.  The  state  tax  levied  by 
the  Legislature  for  1871  is  s;x  mills  on  the  dollar, 
which  includes  one  mill  for  general  school  fund.  The 
levy  for  1870  was  seven  and  three-fourths  mills. 

The  assessment  of  taxes  on  real  estate  is  made 
between  the  first  day  of  March  and  the  first  day  of 
July,  and  the  taxes  so  assessed  are  due  and  payable 
on  the  first  day  of  November  following.  If  not  paid 
by  the  tenth  day  of  January  next  thereafter,  a  pen- 
alty of  ten  per  cent,  is  added.  If  not  paid  by  March 
1st  following,  a  fee  of  twenty-five  cents  for  adver- 
tising each  tract,  except  town  lots,  is  added,  and  ten 
cents  for  each  town  lot.  If  not  paid  before  the  first 


TAXES.  183 

Tuesday  in  May  following,  the  land  is  sold  for  the 
taxes  and  the  foregoing  expenses.  The  whole  amount 
draws  interest  at  the  rate  of  fifty  per  cent,  per  an- 
num. If  not  before  redeemed  by  the  owner,  the 
purchaser  of  the  tax  title  receives  a  tax  deed  at  the 
end  of  three  years.  The  purchase  money,  with  all 
the  subsequent  taxes  up  to  the  date  of  deed,  interest 
being  computed  upon  the  whole  at  fifty  per  cent,  per 
annum,  and  the  cost  of  making  and  recording  the 
deed,  is  the  consideration  of  said  deed. 

In  two  years  after  recording  the  deed,  the  same 
becomes  absolute,  and  suit  is  barred,  excepting  where 
there  are  minor  heirs,  and  they  have  until  they 
become  of  age  and  one  year  thereafter  in  which  to 
redeem,  by  paying  for  improvements,  which  may 
have  been  made  upon  the  land  by  the  tax  purchaser, 
together  with  the  taxes  and  interest  as  allowed  by  law. 

The  Topeka  Record  says,  January,  1871:  "In  a 
recent  decision — Bowman  et  al  vs.  Cockrill — our  Su- 
preme Court  has  affirmed  the  validity  of  tax  deeds 
given  on  sale  of  land  for  non-payment  of  taxes,  and 
sustains  the  statute  of  limitations,  which  bars  an 
action  for  the  recovery  of  property  so  sold  and  deeded 
after  the  expiration  of  two  years  from  the  time  the 
deed  shall  have  been  recorded. 

"The  court  also  decided  in  the  same  case,  that  the 
statute  does  not  require  that  the  tax  deed  shall  be  in 
the  exact  form  therein  prescribed,  but  only  substan- 
tially in  that  form." 

I  also  quote  from  the  Statutes  as  follows:  "As 
between  the  grantor  and  grantee  of  any  land,  where 
there  is  no  express  agreement  as  to  which  shall  pay 
the  taxes  that  may  be  assessed  thereon,  if  such  land 
is  conveyed  between  the  firnt  day  of  March  and  the 
first  day  of  November,  then  the  grantee  shall  pay  the 
same  ;  but  if  conveyed  between  the  first  day  of  No- 
vember and  the  first  day  of  March,  the  grantor  shall 
pay  them."  General  Statutes,  p.  1062,  sec.  140. 


184 


HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS; 


IF 


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GROWTH    OF   KANSAS. 


185 


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TAXES.  187 


TABLE  showing  square  miles  of  counties  not  included  in  foregoing  table. 

Barbour 780  Phillips 900 

Barton 900  Pawnee 900 

Comanche 780  Pratt  900 

Clarke 780  Beno 1512 

Foni ,&».  9'!0  Bu  h 900 

Graham .4..  900  Rooks 900 

Hodgeman *T..  900  Buseell 900 

Harper 1152  Bico 900 

Kiowa 900  Smith  900 

Lincoln 720  Stunner ,,,,., 1152 

Norton 900  Stafford 900 

Ness 900  Trego 900 

Osborne 900 

It  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  there  are  few 
counties  in  which  there  is  not  more  or  less  land 
exempt  from  taxation  owing  to  the  title  still  vesting 
in  the  United  States.  The  Osage  Trust  land  was  none 
of  it  subject  to  taxation,  although  largely  settled 
upon.  Montgomery  county  for  instance,  showing  by 
the  last  census  7,613  inhabitants. 

It  is  to  be  noted  especially  that  Kansas  has  grown 
to  its  present  position  almost  entirely  during  the  last 
five  years.  A  comparison  of  the  census  for  I860  with 
that  for  1865,  will  show  that  the  growth  was  confined 
almost  exclusively  to  counties  containing  consider- 
able towns.  Kansas  did  not  gain  in  population 
during  the  war  like  other  western  states,  nor  in 
wealth  like  all  other  northern  states.  But  if  we 
exhibit  the  growth  for  ten  years  from  1860  to  1870, 
it  still  shows  that  Kansas  distances  all  competitors, 
in  the  march  of  empire. 


183 


HUTCHINSON  S    KANSAS. 


TABLE  shmving  the  increase  of  population  in  all  the  states  and  the  percentage  of 
increase. 


<-. 

STATE. 

Populati'n 
1860. 

Populati'n 
1870. 

Per  cent  of 
increase. 

964  201 

1  002  OCO 

4 

Arkansas  

435  450 

486  103 

12 

379  994 

556  2'  '8 

47 

Connecticut  

460  147 

537  886 

17 

II9  216 

]25  05<' 

12 

District  C  lumbia  

75,080 

131  889 

76 

Fl  Tida  

140  424 

189  995 

35 

Georgia  

1.057,286 

1  185000 

12 

Indiana  

1  3~0428 

1  676  046 

24 

Illinois 

1  711  951 

2  597  032 

'48 

Iowa  

647  699 

1  190  845 

77 

KANSAS  .  . 

1O7  2O6 

362  SO7 

238 

Kentucky  

1  15  J  584 

1  32:5  264 

15 

708  002 

728  000 

3 

Maine 

6-)8  279 

630  243 

03 

Maryland  

687  049 

781  005 

14 

749  113 

1  181'?96 

58 

Massachusetts  

1  231  063 

1  449  042 

18 

172023 

3:J5  000 

95 

Mississippi  

791  305 

834  190 

6 

Miss  iu  ri  

1  182  012 

1  690  716 

43 

Nebraska  

'  28'841 

ne'sss 

201 

New  J-rsey  

672  035 

9u65U 

31 

New  York 

3  880  735 

4  370  846 

13 

Nevada  

'     6*857 

41  806 

501 

North  Carolina  

992  622 

1  085  500 

9 

326  073 

318  300 

24 

Ohio  

2,339,51  1 
52  465 

2,652,302 
90  922 

14 
73 

Pennsyl  -aniu  

2906  Hi 

3  517  272 

21 

Rhode  I  laud       .                   

174  620 

217  319 

25 

South  Carolina 

703  708 

735  000 

5 

Tenno  'see  

1  109  801 

1  258  3^6 

14 

Texas  

604215 

797  500 

32 

315  09S 

330  585 

5 

fVirginia  

1  596  -HI  8 

1  657  550 

1  5 

775  ggo 

1  055  296 

36 

Territories  '.  

150,229 

319,<>53 

112 

*New  Hampshire  shows  a  decrease  of  two  and  four  tenths,  (2  4-10)  per  cent 
in  the  ton  ye  Are. 

fVirg'uia  includes  West  Vir^in'a  in  this  calculation,  there  having  been  no 
Jivision  in  1860. 


KANSAS   SECURITIES.  189 

The  following  table  exhibits  the  increased  valua- 
tion of  the  taxable  property  of  Kansas  from  year  to 
year  from  1865  to  1870  inclusive  and  the  per  cent,  of 
increase: 

TABLE  showing  increased  valuation  for  six  years. 


Year. 

\ssess3d  valuation 

Per  cent,  in- 

creia?. 

1865  

$36  140,827  00 

460 

1866      ...         

50  439  634  96 

104.0 

1867 

56976036  00 

127  5 

1868  .,„. 

66  949  54P  88 

1790 

1869 

76  393  685  00 

217  0 

1870  

92)528J099  00 

275!o 

KANSAS    SECURITIES. 

There  is  no  doubt  that  this  State  offers  great 
attractions  to  capitalists  or  any  who  have  money  to 
loan.  The  legal  rate  of  interest  by  contract  is  twelve 
per  cent,  per  annum,  and  an  almost  unlimited  amount 
of  money  can  be  loaned  at  this  rate,  payable  annu- 
ally, on  long  time,  with  security  upon  improved 
farms,  or  good  city  propert3T,  at  one-third  their  pres- 
ent value.  On  shorter  time  and  similar  security,  or 
good  names,  money  readily  commands  18  to  20  per 
cent,  per  annum,  the  surplus  over  12  per  cent,  being 
added  to  the  note.  Decisions  have  been  made  which 
leave  no  doubt  as  to  the  legality  of  this  proceeding. 
Mortgages  are  so  drawn  as  to  waive  the  right  of 
redemption,  and  to  include  all  expense  of  foreclosure 
and  collection.  It  is  surprising  that  people  will  con- 
sent to  loan  money  in  the  eastern  states  at  five,  six 
or  seven  per  cent,  per  annum,  when  such  rates 
are  to  be  obtained  here.  Besides,  our  securities  are 
constantly  increasing  in  value,  and  by  the  time  long 
notes  would  fall  due  the  property  will  be  worth  two 
or  three  times  its  present  rate*.  Our  county,  city, 
township  and  school  district  bonds  are  also  excellent 
investments,  as  they  are  a  lien  upon  the  entire  prop- 


190  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

erty  of  communities  whose  rapid  growth  is  shown 
by  indisputable  statistics  elsewhere  given.  If  any 
inquire  how  people  can  afford  to  pa}'  such  rates  of 
interest,  I  think  they  have  only  carefully  to  look  this 
book  through,  and  they  will  discover  several  suffi- 
cient answers  to  the  question.  Among  the  most 
desirable  of  the  many  attractive  investments  which 
offer  in  this  State  are  railroad  bonds.  The  cost  of 
constructing  these  roads  across  our  comparatively 
level  country  is  light,  while  their  long  reaches  of 
easy  grade  and  of  air  line  road,  greatly  lessen  the 
cost  of  keeping  them  in  repair.  Bunning  through 
fertile  regions  which  are  rapidly  settling  with  an 
enterprising  people,  these  roads  must  become  im- 
mensely valuable,  while  the  enormous  land  grants 
with  which  they  are  endowed  give  additional  secu- 
rity to  the  bonds.  These  bonds  are  offered  at  such 
rates  that  they  afford  an  investment  which  yields  an 
income  at  least  double  that  to  be  obtained  in  the 
eastern  states  on  loans.  They  also  offer  the  further 
advantage  that  they  can  be  converted  into  cash  at 
any  time,  or  may  remain  as  a  permanent  investment 
for  any  desired  period. 

LIST    OF   BANKS. 

LIST  OF  B\NKS  AND  BANKERS  in  the  State  of  Kansas  on  May  1, 1S71. 
Prepared  by  the  Adams  National  Batik  of  Topeka. 

Augusta.  Chetopa. 

Brown  Brothers.       .  W.  B.  Ketchum  A  Co. 

Atchison. 

First  National  Bank.  Emporia. 

\Vm.  Hetheriogton  A  Co.  Riggs,  Dunl  ip  &  Co. 

Atchison  Savings  Bank.  Neo*ho  Valley  Bunk. 

Americus.  Emp^ri^i  Bank. 

T.  C.  Hill.  Eldorado. 

Burlingame.  Wai  .ut  VaLey  Bank. 

P.  C.  Schuyler  A  Son.  Eureka. 

Burlington.  Edwin  Tucker. 

Jarboe,  G.irretson  'A  Co.  Fort  Scott. 

Baxter  Springs.  First  National  Bank. 

Van  Winkle  *  Slater.  Farmers  and  Mechanics  Bank. 

Cherokee  County  Bank.  B.  P.  McDjnalc). 

Ct.u.icil  Grove.  Van  Fossen  &  Button. 

Council  Grove  iavin^B  Bank.  Phillips  &  Scovell. 


BANKS   AND    BANKERS.  191 


Garnett.  Olathe. 

John  R.  Foster  &  Co.  First  National  Bank. 

Humboldt.  C.  E.  Waldron  &  Co. 
Pratt  &  Ten  feycke.  Ottawa. 

Allfcn  County  Bank.  First  National  Bank. 

lola.  Shepherd  &  McQuesten. 
lola  Bank.  Paola. 

L.  L.  Northrup.  Miami  Saving-*  Bank. 

Junction  City.  V.  C.  Jarboe. 
James  Streeter  &  Co.  Salina. 

Robert  S.  Miller.  D.  W.  Powers  &  Co. 

Lawrence.  Seneca. 

The  National  Bank.  Lappin  &  Scrafibrd. 
Second  National  Bank.  Topeka. 

Simpson  Brothers.  Adams  National  Bank. 

Leavenworth.  Kansas  Valley  National  Bank. 

First  National  Bank.  Topeka  Bank. 

Second  National  Bank.  F.  VV.  Giles  &  Co 

Newman  &  Havens.  Guilford  Dudley. 
Scott  &  Co.  Wamego. 

Ilines  &  >aves.  Mucke  &  Shortndge. 
Clark  &  Co.  Waterville. 

German  Savings  Bank.  Marshall  County  Bank. 
Leavenworth  favings  Bank.  Wyandotte. 

Manhattan.  B  Judd. 

E.  B.  Purcell  &  Co.  Pet^r  Cunrelley. 

Wm.  P.  Iliginbotham.  Kansas  State  Savings  Bank. 

SURVEY  OP  GOVERNMENT  LANDS. 

The  public  lands  of  the  United  States  are  surveyed  under  Direction  of  the 
ConimUsiouur  of  the  General  Laud  Office,  Washington,  D.  C.  The  United  States 
is  divided  into  surveying  istricts,  each  in  charge  of  a  Smveyor  General.  The 
Surveyor  General  Ibi  Kansas  is  Hon.  C.  W.  Babcock,  whose  office  is  at  Law- 
rence. 

All  the  public  lands  in  the  United  States  are  now  surveyed  under  the  same 
system  by  which  they  are  divided  into  tr  cts  six  miles  square,  called  townships, 
and  each  towubhip  is  subdivided  into  tracts  one  mile  square,  called  sections. 
North  and  south  and  east  and  west  lines  are  run  by  government  surveyors, 
who  set  stones  or  stakes  to  mark  the  corners  of  the  vari  us  divisions. 

As  all  the  north  and  south  township  and  section  lines  are  run  upon  the  true 
meridian — that  its,  each  line,  if  extended,  would  pass  through  the  north  and 
south  poles — it  follows  that  all  these  north  afed  south  lines  converge,  or  ap- 
proach each  other  towards  the  north.  From  this  the  reader  will  see  that 
neither  the  townships  nor  sections  can  be  precisely  square,  as  the  line  bounding 
the  north  s  de  of  each  tract  must  be  a  trifle  shorter  than  the  line  bounding  the 
south  side  of  the  same  tract.  Besides  thin,  it  is  impracticable,  if  not  impo^si- 
ble,  for  the  surveyors  to  measure  the  lines  with  perfect  accuracy. 

In  commencing  the  surveys  of  each  district,  base  lines  and  principal  merid- 
ians are  established,  the  former-  running  east  and  west,  the  latter  north  and 
south. 


192  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

To  counteract  the  error  that  would  otherwise  result  from  tho  cnnvergency 
of  line?,  as  above  described,  and  to  avert  errors  arising  from  inaccuracies  in 
measurement,  other  lines  are  es'ablished,  running  parallel  to  the  base  lines, 
cabled  standard  parallels.  In  Kansas,  and  a'ways  if  the  townships  are  num- 
bered south  from  any  base  line,  these  parallels  are  SO  miles  apart,  but  in  Ne- 
bra^ka,  or  wherever  the  townships  number  north  from  the  base  Hue*,  the 
parallels  are  24  miles  apait.  Upon  the  parallels  the  convergency,  or  tendency 
to  run  togeher  of  the  north  and  south  township  and  section  lines,  is  corrcted. 
On  the  parallels  is  observable  a  jog  or  offset  in  the  north  and  south  lines,  part 
of  the  stones  or  stakes  marking  the  corners  of  the  townships  an  1  sections 
north  of  the  standard,  and  part  marking  the  corners  and  sections  south  of  the 
parallel. 

For  convenience  in  surveying,  guide  meridians  are  also  established,  running 
north  and  south,  43  miles  apart. 

From  the  point  where  the  base  line  and  the  principal  meridian  cross  each 
other,  the  townships  are  numbered  north  and  south,  and  the  ranges  of  town- 
ships «a  t  and  west. 

Any  number  or  series  of  contiguous  townships  situate  north  end  south  of 
each  other,  or  in  other  words  any  north  and  south  row  of  townships,  constitute 
a  range.  The  ranges  are  designated  as  range  No.  —  east  (of  the  principal 
meridian,1  or  as  range  No.  —  west  (of  the  principal  meridian  )  No  two  town- 
ships in  any  one  range  are  numbered  alike.  In  any  one  row  of  townships  run- 
ning eatt  and  westt  all  the  townships  are  numbered  alike,  but  are  distinguished 
from  each  other  ly  designating  the  number  of  the  range  in  which  ar>.y  particu- 
lar township  is  situa  ed,  and  whether  the  range  is  east  or  west  (of  the  meridian.) 

A  glance  at  the  map  will  show  a  base  line  on  the  northern  boundary  of  Kan- 
sas, and  the  sixth  principal  meridian  crossing  it  between  Republic  and  Wash- 
ington c  unties.  To  describe  a  township,  we  say  it  is,  for  instance,  township 
No.  17  south,  of  range  No.  5  east,  meauing  south  of  the  base  line  and  east  of 
the  meridian.  If  north  of  the  base  or  west  of  the  meridian,  it  would  be  de- 
scribe d  accordingly.  The  township  just  described  is  in  the  southwest  corner 
of  Morris  county,  Kansas. 

Upon  the  western  p  rtien  of  our  map  is  an  enlarged  township,  which  is 
subdivided  into  sections,  there  boing  36  sections  in  each  township,  wtrch  are 
numbered  from  the  northeast  corner  of  each  township.  In  subdividing  a 
township  info  sections,  the  surveyors  commence  at  the  southwest  corner  of 
the  southeast  section  and  ruu  a  Y&lf  mile  north,  and  establish  a  quarter  section 
corner,  then  a  half  mile  fur  her  north  and  establish  a  section  corner,  then  due 
east,  as  it  is  supposed  this  course  will  strike  the  nor ; Least  section  cor uer  of 
section  thirty-six,  and  which  corner  was  set  in  running  the  exterior  lines  of 
the  township.  This  last  line  is  called  a  "random"  line,  and  at  a  half  mile 
distant  a  random  corner  is  set,  whence  the  surveyors  proceed  to  the  northeast 
section  corner  aforesaid.  If  they  do  not  strike  the  corner,  they  measure  the 
'falling,"  or  distance  cither  north  or  south  of  the  said  corn-rat  which  they 
intersect  the  township  line.  They  then  go  back  to  the  northwest  corner  of 
section  36,  correcting  the  random  quarter  earner  if  it  was  wrongly  established 


SURVEY  OF  GOVERNMENT  LANDS.      193 

by  moving  it  north  or  south,  as  the  case  may  be,  one-half  the  measurement  of 
the  aforesaid  '•'falling".  From  the  last  named  section  corner  they  proceed 
northward  a  mile  and  then  eastward  a  mile  and  return,  establishing  the  section 
and  quarter  section  corners  as  before.  But  any  excess  or  deficiency  in  measure- 
ments is  thrown  into  the  last  half  mile  before  reaching  the  north  line  of  the 
township. 

They  then  return  to  a  point  one  mile  west  of  the  point  of  beginning,  that  is, 
to  the  southwest  corner  of  section  35,  and  repeat  the  procees  by  wh'ch  th  •  first 
t:»r  of  sections  was  laid  off.  The  random  east  lines  are  in  each  case  run  due 
east  one  n  ile,  to  the  previous'y  established  section  c  >rner  The  surveys  of  each 
township  are  closed  out  on  the  north  and  west  lines  of  said  township,  and  if 
there  is  any  excess  or  deficiency  in  the  land,  that  is, — as  no  township  makes  36 
sections,  each  precisely  a  mile  square — the  excess  or  deficiency  is  all  thrown 
into  the  row  of  quarter  sections  on  the  north  and  west  lines  of  each  township. 
This  explains  why  these  quarters  are  always  fractional,  containing  more  or 
less  than  160  acres  each. 

Each  section,  excepting  the  fractional  sections,  is  considered  to  be  a  mile 
square,  and  is  silwajs  reckoned  as  containing  640  acres — each  half,  or  quarler, 
a  proportional  amount.  Forty  acres,  or  a  tract  eighty  rods  (quarter  of  a  mile) 
gqu  ire  is  the  lowest  subdivision  made  by  the  government  in  disposing  of  its 
lands,  but  the  corners  of  40  acre  tracts  are  not  marked  by  the  surveyor.  These 
c  ,ruer-i  are  regarded  by  law  as  points  intermediate  between  the  half  mile  or 
quarter  section  corners.  In  fractional  quai  ter  sections  the  excess  or  deficiency 
is  thrown  into  tbe  west  40s,  if  on  the  west  side  of  a  township,  and  into  the 
north  40s  if  on  the  north  side  of  a  township. 

STAKES  OR  STONES  are  set  at  each  township  corner,  at  «ach  section  corner  and 
on  section  Hues,  half  way  between  the  sectional  corner  t- tones.  The  latter  are 
called  quarter  stones,  for  they  mark  the  corners  of  the  quarter  sections,  but  no 
corners  are  established  in  the  centre  of  the  sections.  The  only  exception  to 
th  s  rule  about  quarler  section  stakes  or  stones  is,  they  are  not  required  to  be 
established  on  the  west  boundary  of  the  western  tier  of  sections  in  a  township, 
nor  on  the  north  boundary  of  the  ?  orthern  tier  of  sections  in  a  township  south 
of  and  bordering  on  a  standard  para'lel  or  base  lice.  This  exception  aj  plies 
only  to  such  surve'  s  as  are  made  subsequently  to  the  instructions  of  the  Gen- 
eral Land  Office  of  June  1, 1864. 

Pers  ns  having  occasion  to  establish  a  quarter  corner  stone  in  the  centre  of  a 
section  (which  is  never  set  by  government  surveys)  will  bear  in  mind  that  if  the 
section  is  bounded  on  its  north  side  by  i  standard  parallel  or  base  line,  then  there 
i-t  no  quarter  section  corner  on  said  standard  or  base  for  the  said  section,  but 
only  for  the  section  laying  north  of  the  standard  or  base,  provided  the  survey 
was  made  since  18(54. 

Marking  the  Corners. 

When  posts  are  used  they  are  to  be  squared  above  the  ground,  and  at  the  cor- 
ners of  the  townships  and  sections  they  should  stand  diagotally,  or  with  their 

9 


194  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

corners  toward  the  cardinal  points  of  the  compass.  On  each  surface  of  the 
post  common  to  four  townships,  is  to  be  marked  the  number  of  the  particular 
township,  and  its  range,  which  it  faces.  Thus,  if  the  post  be  a  common  bound  try 
of  four  townships,  say  one  and  two,  south  of  the  base  line  of  range  one  west 
cf  the  meridian  ;  also  to  townships  one  and  two  south  of  the  ba-:e  line,  of  range 
two  west  of  the  meridian,  it  is  to  be  marked  thus: 


)      R.1W. 
From  north  to  east  >    T.  1  8. 
j      8.31 

1        2  W. 
From  north  to  west  y      IS. 
j      36 

•)      1  W. 
From  east  to  south  >    2  S. 
)      6 
1      2  W. 
From  west  to  south  V    2  S. 

The  letters  preceding  the  figures  indicate  range,  township  and  section.  The 
letters  following  the  figures  refer  to  the  points  of  compass 

Township  corner  posts,  common  to  four  townships,  are  also  notched  with  six 
notches  on  each  corner. 

STONES  common  to  four  townships  are  only  marked  with  six  notches,  cut  with 
a  pick  or  chisel  on  each  edge  or  side  towards  the  cardinal  points. 

Instructions  are  given  that  when  stones  are  used  (flat  atones  are  prescribed) 
the  edges  must  be  set  north  and  south  on  north  and  south  lines,  and  east  and 
west  on  east  and  west  lines. 

POSTS  OR  STONES  at  township  corners  on  thn  base  and  standard  parallel  lines, 
and  which  are  common  to  two  townships  on  the  north  side  thereof,  will  have 
fix  notches  on  each  of  the  west,  north  and  east  sides  or  edg  s  ;  and  whe1  e  such 
stones  or  posts  are  set  for  corners  to  two  township*  south  of  the  base  or  standard, 
six  notches  will  be  cut  on  each  of  the  w«st,  south  and  east  sides  or  edges. 

Sectional  posts  or  stones  on  range  and  township  lines  must  have  as  many 
notches  on  them  on  two  opposite  angles  or  sides  thereof  as  they  are  miles  dis. 
taHt  from  the  township  corners  respectively.  If  on  range  lines  (which  run 
north  and  s-.uth)  they  will  be  mar  ed  on  the  north  and  south  sides.  Township 
lines  run  east  and  we-t,  and  the  sectional  posts  or  stones  thereon  are  marked 
on  the  eas  and  west  sides. 

POSTS  OR  STONES  set  previously  to  1864  at  the  corners  of  sections  in  the  inte 
rior  of  townships  must  indicate,  by  a  number  of  notches  on  each  of  their  four 
corners  or  sides,  directed  to  the  cardi  al  points,  the  corresponding  number  of 
miles  that  they  stand  from  the  outlines  of  the  township.  The  four  sides  of  a 
2?es£  at  the  corner  of  sections  will  also  indicate  the  number  of  the  section  which 
each  side  respectively  faces,  and  on  one  side  it  should  be  marked  the  number  of 
the  towaship  and  range  in  which  it  is  situated. 

POSTS  OR  STONES  a*-  1  subsequently  to  1864  at  the  corners  of  sections  in  th« 
interior  of  townships,  will  have  as  many  notches  on  the  south  and  east  edges,  or 
sides,  as  they  are  miles  from  th«  south  and  east  boundaries  of  the  towaship. 

A  quarter  section  or  half  mile  pott  will  have  no  other  marks  upon  it  than  '% 
S"  to  indicate  what  it  stands  for. 


SURVEY  OF  GOVERNMENT  LANDS.      195 

STONES,  when  used  for  quarter  section  corners,  will  have  "%  "  cut  on  them,  on 
the  west  side  of  north  and  touth  lines,  and  on  the  south  side  of  east  and  west 
lines. 

A  TBEE  may  be  xise  1  instead  of  a  corner  post  if  it  stand  in  the  proper  place 
and  it  is  to  be  marked  in  the  same  manner  as  a  post;  but  if  its  bark  be  smooth 
the  marks  may  be  on  the  bark  and  the  tree  notched. 

MEANDER  CORNER  posts  or  stones  are  planted  at  all  points  wh^re  «he  township 
or  section  lines  intersect  the  banks  of  such  rivers,  bp;  ons,  lakes  or  islands,  aa 
are  by  law  directed  to  be  meandered. 

BEARING  TREES  are  trees  adjacent  to  corner  posts  f  r  corner  frees.  They  are 
dist  ngu'shed  by  a  larg«.  smooth  blaze,  with  a  notch  at  its  lower  end,  facing  the 
corner,  and  in  the  blaze  is  marked  the  number  of  the  range,  township  and 
section,  but  at  quarter  sectio  >  corners  "%  S"  only,  is  marked.  The  letter* 
"B.  T."  (bearing  tree)  are  also  to  be  marked  upon  a  smaller  blaze  directly  under 
the  larger  one. 

At  all  township  and  section  corners,  four  bea1  ing  trees,  if  such  be  found,  are 
mark*  d  in  this  manner,  one  to  stand  in  each  of  the  adjoining  sections.    A 
quarter  section  and  meander  corners,  two  bearing  trees  are  to  be  marked,  one 
•within  eich  of  the  adjoining  sections. 

MOUNDS.  Whenever  bea-ing  trees  are  not  found,  mounds  of  earth  or  stone  are 
to  be  raised  around  posts  on  which  the  corners  are  to  be  marked  in  the  manner 
aforesaid.  If  the  mound  is  constructed  of  earth,  a  spade  full  oi  two  of  earth 
sbould  be  taken  from  the  corner  boundary  point,  and  in  the  cavitv  a  ma  ked 
Btonf  plRced,  or  a  portion  of  charcoal,  or  a  charre<i  stake,  driven  twelve  inches 
down  in  o  the  centre  point.  Since  1864  it  has  be«n  required  that  posts  in 
mounds  be  driven  twelve  ncbesdeep  at  the  precise  corner  point,  and  the  marked 
Bt  ne,  charcoal  or  charred  stake  is  to  be  placed  twelve  inches  below  the  sur- 
face on  one  side  of  the  post. 

Township  mounds  are  to  be  five  feet  in  d'amet:  r  at  their  base  and  two  feet 
In  height. 

Section,  quarter- section  and  meander  corner  mounds  are  to  be  four  and  a  hal 
fe^r  in  »lianieter  at  th^ir  b  <se  and  wo  feet  high. 

Prior  to  1864  quadrangular  trenches  w«>re  equired,  the  sides  to  be  six  feet 
long  at  townslup  corners,  and  five  feet  long  at  section,  quarter-section  and 
mean  er  corners. 

If  a  townsh'p  or  section  corner  post  fall  in  such  situat:on  that  th*>  nature  O 
the  ground   s  notf  v  r;«ble  to  t  e  e  ection  of  a  mound,  then  in  some  convnien  t 
situation  near  by,  -t  witness  mound  will  be  e  ected  and  with  charcoal,  ch  irred 
st-ike,  or  ma  ks-1  st  kn  deposited  *h^rein  as  beto>~e  described     The  distance  and 
bearing  of  this  mono"    KV,'   ',lie  v.'u*  corner  i?  to  be  stated  in  the  field  notes. 

PITS.  Tho  excav  itujTj  in0****  m  discing  eir  h  to  firm  the  mound  is  called  the 
pit,  and  since  ISo-l  t  is  required  ,ui  •:•••  '•«  four  pit",  which,  for  township 
corners  sh  II  b  ,.vnt  en  inches  wide,  two  teet  in  length,  and  at  least  one  toot 
deeo,  located  six  feet  Irom  the  post.  At  section  corners  tke  pits  will  be  eighteen 
nches  square. 


196  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

At  meander  corners  the  pit  is  to  be  directly  on  the  line,  eight  links  farther 
from  the  water  than  the  mound. 

At  township  or  $cctional  corners  common  to  four  township*,  the  pits  should 
be  on  th~  lines  and  lengthwise  to  them. 

On  base  and  standard  lines,  where  the  corners  are  common  to  only  two  town 
•hips  or  sections,  three  pits  only  ar-  dug— Uo  in  line  on  e  ther  side  of  the  postT 
and  oue  on  the  north  side  of  the  line  for  standard  corners,  and  one  on  the  south 
side  of  tbe  line  for  closing  corners. 

STANDARD  CORNERS,  a  e  corners  on  a  ba~e  or  standard  p  rallel — -vhich  corners 
are  common  to  two  townships  or  sections  north  of  the  bas«-  or  standard.  Such 
corners  are  marked  "S.  C."  in  addition  to  the  other  marks  before  described. 

CLOSING  CORNERS,  are  coruens  on  abase  or  btaudard  parallel,  which  corners 
are  common  to  two  townships  or  section  corners  south  of  the  base  or  •  lamia  nl 
Bach  corners  are  marked  "  C.  C."  in  addition  to  the  other  mark-  before  described. 
Standard  corners,  are  east  of  the  corresponding  closing  corners,  lor  all  ranges 
numbered  east  of  any  Principal  Meridian,  a-<d  they  are  west  of  the  correspond- 
ing closing  comers,  for  all  ranges  numbered  west  of  any  Principal  Meridian. 

Su<  h  corners  are  nowhere  else  to  be  found,  ttnd  are  called  double  corners. 

LINES  ruo  through  timber  should  be  marked  by  cut'ing  two  chop-t  or  notches 
on  each  side  of  every  tre  •  two  or  more  inches  in  di*met  r,  which  is  on  the  line 
Other  tree*  standing  near  tbe  line  are  to  be  blazed  onlwo  sides  diagonally,  or 
quartering  towards  the  line. 

A  surveyor's  CHAIN  is  four  rods  or  sixty-six  feet  in  length,  and  is  composed  of 
one  hundred  link?,  each  link  being  seven  inches  and  ninety-two  hundredths  of 
an  inch  long. 

Length  of  lines— 1.  Every  north  and  south  section  line,  except  those  terminating 
In  th«  n  -itn  bounda-y  of  the  township,  must  be  eighty  chains  (one  mile)  long 

2.  Every  ea-t  and  west  sectioi  line,  except  those  terminating  in  the  west 
boundary  of  the  township,  are  to  be  within  one  hundred  links  of  tbe  a  tual 
distance  established  on  the  south  boundary  line  of  the  township  for  the  width, 
of  said  tier  cf  sections. 

3.  The  north  boundary  and  south  boundary  of  any  one  section,  except  in 
the  extreme  western  tier,  are  to  be  within  one  hundred  links  of  equal  length. 

4.  The  meanders  within  a  fractional  eection.  >  r  between  any  two  meander 
poets,  or  of  a  pond  cr  island  in  the  interior  of  a  section,  must   close  within 
<me  chain  and  fifty  links. 

All  considerable  streams  or  bodies  of  water  are  MEANDERED.  The  courses  and 
distances  of  their  winding?  are  taken  and  entered  in  the  field  notes,  and  where 
the  bank  intersects  a  township  o  section  line,  stones,  stake*  or  mounds  are 
established  (on  both  banks  of  a  stream)  which  are  called  meander  corners. 

VARIATION  OF  THE  NKEDLE.  The  true  meridian  at  any  place  is  a  line  which 
if  prolonged  would  pass  through  both  the  i  orth  and  sooth  poles. 

The  magnetic  meridian  at  any  place  is  a  line,  extend  ng  in  the  direction  in 
which  tbe  compass  needle  lies  when  a-  rest  undistu .bed  by  local  attractions 
This  line  does  not  coincide  w  th  the  true  meridian  anywhere  in  the  United 


SURVEY  OF  GOVERNMENT  LANDS.      197 

State*,  exc  pting  upon  a  certain  line  whi  h  is  constantly,  but  slowly,  moving 
westward  and  now  runs  west  of  north  near  Cleveland.  Ohio. 

The  angle  which  the  magnetic  meridian  makes  with  t  e  true  meridian,  at 
any  place  on  the  'urf  <ce  of  the  earth,  is  called  the  variation  of  the  needle  at  that 
place,  and  is  east  or  west,  according  as  the  north  end  of  the  needle  lies  on  the 
eaft  or  west  side  of  the  true  meridian. 

The  variation  of  the  needle  at  St.  Lonis  in  1840,  was  8°  37'  east,  and  at  th"e  mouth 
of  the  Columbia  River  was  21°  4(V  east.  The  variation  is  different  at  different 
places,  and  even  at  the  SIWIA  place  it  does  not  rema-n  constant  any  length  of  time. 

In  subdividinga  township  into  s  ctions,  the  compa-s  is  adjusted  toa  variation 
which  will  retrace  the  eastern  bounda-y  of  that  particu'ar  township. 

IN  KANSAS  the  variation  at  which  the  public  surveys  have  been  made  i« 
from  about  10°  to  15°  east. 

The  variation  of  the  needle,  whenever  a  Ins  is  run,  is  carefully  noted  in  the 
field  notes. 

FIELD  NOTES  are  the  records  made  by  the  surveyors  of  their  work.  The  gov- 
ernment requires  tha'  th  y  shall  be  "a  faithful,  distinct  and  minute  record  of 
everyhng  officially  done  or  observed  by  the  surveyor  and  his  assistants,  pnr- 
Biiaut  to  iii-it  ni'-tions  in  relation  to  ruti"ine,  measuring  and  marki  g  lines, 
estab'ishing  boundary  corners,  ef.,  and  present,  a*  fir  as  possible,  a  full  and 
compete  topographical  description  of  the  country  surveyed,  as  to  every  matter 
of  useful  iu'brnia'iwn,  or  likely  ti>  grat  fy  public  curiosity." 

There  are  separate  and  dist-'n  t  books  of  surveys,  •  s  follows  : 

1.  Field  notes  of  the  meridian  and  base  lines  shewing  the  establishment  of 
the  township  section  or  m'le,  and  quarter  fe  tion  or  half  mile  boundary  corners 
thereon,  with  the  crossings  of  streams,  ravines,  hills  and  mountains;  character 
of  soil,  timber,  minera's,  etc. 

2.  Fie'd   notes  of  the  standard  parallels,  or  correction  lines,  showing  the 
estabti-hment  of  the  township,  section  and  quarter  section  corners,  beside* 
exhibiting  the  topography  of  the  country  on  line  a"  aforesaid. 

3.  Field  notes  of  the  exterior  lines  of  townships,  showing  the  establishment 
of  corne  s  on  1  ne>,  and  the  topography  as  aforesaid. 

4.  Field  notes  of  the  sectional  lines  subdividing  the  townships  into  sections 
and  quarter  sections,  with  the  topography  «s  afor  said. 

The  variation  of  the  needle  is  always  given.  The  exhibition  of  every  mile 
of  surveying  is  complete  in  it-elf.  The  description  of  the  snrface,  soil,  min- 
erals, tim  er,  undergrowth,  et«.,  on  each  mile  of  line,  follows  the  note*  of 
survey  of  each  line. 

In  Oregon  Washington  and  New  Mexico,  it  is  require!  that  the  field  notes 
show  t'  e  claims  of  fh-*e  sett'ers  who  located  prior  to  the  survey. 

The  original  field  notes  are  retained  in  the  Surveyor  General's  office,  and 
transcripts  are  *ent  to  the  General  Land  Office  «t  Washington,  D.  C 

Township  pints  ar*  f'ir>,ished  to  the  district  land  offices,  and  accompanying 
them  are  descriptive  notes  as  to  the  character  and  quality  of  the  soil  and  tim- 
ber found  on  and  in  th  vicinity  of  each  surveyed  1  ne,  and  a  description  of  each 
corner  boundary. 


198 

As  the  field  notes  are  confined  to  the  lines  mentioned,  they  cannot  give  a 
thorough  description  of  the  couniry,  and  the  mention  made  of  soil  gives  only 
an  idea  of  the  relative  value  of  the  land  along  each  line. 

Locating  missing  or  misplaced  quarter  section  stones. 

Prom  a  letter  addressed  to  the  edito-  of  The  Land  Owner,  Chicago,  Illinois, 
dated  November  20, 1870,  and  signed  Jose  «h  S.  Wilson,  Commissioner  of  the 
General  Land  Office,  Washington,  D.  C.,  I  collate  the  following  : 

First  identify  the  sectional  corner  stones  north  and  south,  or  east  and  west, 
then  run  aad  measure  a  straight  line  between  the  two  stones  thus  identified. 
Next  examine  the  original  field  notes,  (or  a  copy)  and  if  the  present  measure 
corresponds  with  that  recorded  in  the  original  field  notes,  then  establish  the 
quarter  section  corner  at  forty  chains,  (160  rods,)  otherwise  establish  it  half 
way  between  the  said  sectional  corners. 

To  locate  toe  quarter  section  corner  in  the  ctntre  of  the  section,  (which  is 
left  unlocated  by  government  survey)  run  a  line  north  and  south,  and  a  line 
east  and  west  through  the  centre  of  the  section,  between  the  quarter  section 
corners  on  the  i-ection  lines,  and  the  paint  of  intersection  or  crossing  of  these 
lines  is  the  legal  centre  corner. 

How  to  obtain  surveys  in  advance  of  regular  surveys. 

By  an  act  of  Congress  approved  May  30, 1862,  it  is  p  orided  that  when  the 
settlers  in  any  township  or  townships,  not  mineral  or  reserved  by  government, 
shall  desire  a  survey  to  be  made  of  the  same  under  the  authority  of  a  £ urveyor 
General  of  the  United  States,  it  maybe  doi^e  undei  certain  condition-.  (Sec. 
10,  p.  410,  Vol.  12  U.  S.  Laws.) 

It  is  prescribed  by  the  Commissioner  of  the  General  Land  Office  tha'  applica- 
tions for  surveys  under  this  law  must  be  made  to  the  Surveyor  General  in 
writing,  upon  receipt  of  which  he  will  furnish  the  applicant  with  an  estimate 
of  how  much  the  desired  survey  will  cost.  Upon  receipt  of  this  estimate  tha 
applicant  must  deposit  the  required  s  im  with  any  United  States  Depository, 
(certain  National  Banks  in  each  state  and  territory)  receiving  a  certificate  of 
deposit  therefor,  made  payable  to  the  Surveyor  General,  and  showing  for  wha* 
purpose  the  money  was  depo-ited.  This  certificate  is  to  be  sent  to  the  Surveyor 
General,  and  upon  its  receipt  he  will  contract  with  a  competent  U.  S.  Deputy 
Surveyor,  and  have  the  survey  made  and  returned  in  the  same  manner  as  other 
public  surveys. 

The  payment  of  the  amount  required  for  the  survey  will  not  give  the  deposi- 
tor any  priority  of  claim  or  right  to  purchase  the  land,  or  in  any  mannf-r  affect 
the  claim  or  claims  of  any  party  or  parties  thereto,  and  when  surveyed  it  will 
be  suVject  to  the  same  general  laws  and  regulations  in  relation  to  the  disposi- 
tion there  >f,  as  w  ould  have  controlled  its  disposal  had  the  survey  been  made  in 
the  regular  and  ordinary  manner. 

ACQUIRING   TITLE   TO    GOVERNMENT   LANDS 

Title  to  public  lands  can  only  be  obtained  through  the  Register  and  Receiver 
of  the  U.  S.  District  Land  Offices,  of  which  there  are  several  in  each  State  and 


ACQUIRING   TITLE  TO   GOVERNMENT   LANDS.    199 

Territory.    They  act  under  direction  of  the  Commissioner  of  the  General  Land 
Office  at  Washington,  D.  C. 

Surveyed  Lands — Public  lands  are  considered  to  be  survey,  d  when  official 
notice  to  that  effect  passes  from  the  surveyors  through  the  Lan'l  Office  at  Wash- 
ington to  the  land  officers  in  the  district  wtier  •  such  land  is  situated.  Prior  to 
this  these  lands  are  unsurveyed  lands,  and  no  title  can  be  obtained  to  them  in 
any  ma  ner,  excepting  only  the  inceptive  right  of  a  pre-emption  settler. 

Unqffered  Lands  are  lands  which  have  been  surveyed  but  have  not  been  offered. 

Offered  Lands  are  lands  which  have  been  surveyed  and  also  "  offered  "  at 
public  auction,  pursuant  to  previous  public  notice  by  advertisement. 

Minimum  Lands  are  those  which  are  not  sold  for  less  than  one  dollar  and 
tweLty-five  cents  per  acre. 

Double  Minimum  Lands  are  those  which  are  not  sold  for  lees  than  two  dol- 
lars and  fifty  cents  per  acre.  The  odd  numbered  sections  only  are  granted  to 
railroads,  and  the  even  numbered  sections  are  doubled  in  price,  becoming 
Double  Minimum  Lands.  In  Kan  as  the  Missouri,  Kansas  and  Texas  and  the 
Missouri  River,  Fort  Scott  and  Gulf  railroads  have  a  right  to  even  as  well  as 
odd  numbered  sections  within  the  indemnity  limits,  that  is,  outside  of  the  ten 
mile  limit  and  within  the  twenty  mile  limit.  Government  does  not  double 
the  price  on  the  even  numbered  se«ti»ns  in  the  indemnity  limits. 

Land  Warrants  are  assignabl  <  certificates  issued  by  the  government  'o  dis- 
charged soldiers  and  sailors  entitling  the  le^al  holder  to  either  forty,  sixty, 
eighty,  one  huudred  and  twenty,  or  one  hundred  and  sixty  acres  of  minimum, 
offered  public  land,  or  as  half  pay  fLr  double  minimum  offered  land,  the  other 
half  being  paid  in  cash.  Warrants  may  be  used  in  payment  for  pre-tmptions 
with  the  smie  limitations  as  above,  concerning  Double  Minimum  Lands. 

Agricultural  College  Scrip  i*  assignable  Land  Scrip,  issued  to  the  several  states 
to  aid  in  the  establishment  of  Agricultural  Colleges. 

First — Th^  legal  holder  is  entitled  ti  a  spe.-ified  amount  of  offered  minimum 
land,  but  he  is  restricted  to  quarter  sections  which  have  two  sides  bounded  by 
a  section  line,  or  it  may  be  located  on  any  part  of  a  quarter  section  where  such 
part  is  taken  in  fvll  for  a  quarter  section,  but  not  more  than  three  sections  can 
be  taken  with  this  scrip  in  any  one  toivnship.  The  amount  that  may  be  located 
in  any  one  state  is  also  lim  ted  to  1,000,000  acres. 

Second — This  scrip  is  taken  in  payment  of  pre-emption  claims  without  regard 
to  the  quantity  located  in  any  one  township  or  state,  but  under  the  same  con- 
ditions as  land  warrants,  if  u*ed  to  pre-empt  double  minnimum  lands. 

Private  Entry — Offered  lands  only  are  subject  to  private  entry.  At  private 
entry  any  person  may  purchase  land  to  any  extent  by  making  written  applica- 
tion to  the  register,  describing  the  land  he  wishes  to  buy  and  giving  its  area. 
He  pays  therefor  $1  '25  or  $2  50  per  acre  in  cash,  or  with  duly  assigned  warrants 
or  scrip  under  above  named  limitations. 

There  are  no  lauds  in  Kansas  subject  to  private  entry  at  $2  50  per  acre  and 
rery  little  at  $1  25  per  acre. 

PRE-EMPTION — By  this  process  and  no  other,  except  ing  by  homesteading,  a  title 
can  be  acquired  to  public  land  which  is  untffered,  but  offered  may  also  be  pre- 


200  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

empted.  Every  head  of  a  family,  or  widow,  or  single  man  or  woman,  over 
twenty-one  years  of  age,  being  a  cit'zen  or  having  filed  a  declaration  of  inten- 
tion to  become  a  citizen,  can  pre-empt  one  hundred  and  sixty  acres  of  either 
minimum  or  double  minimum  laud  by  paying  therefor  and  complying  with 
certain  icgulations.  The  (qualified)  party  who  makes  the  first  settlement  upon 
aay  public  land  by  improving  the  same  is  entitled  to  the  right  of  pre-emption, 
if  the  pre  emption  laws  are  subsequently  c  rnplied  with,  iuehiding  filing  upon 
the  same.  His  right  dates  from  the  time  he  performed  the  flr.st  work  on  the 
land. 

Those  who  settle  upon  unsurveyed  land  must  in  order  to  pre-empt,  within 
three  months  after  date  of  receipt  at  the  district  laud  offico  of  the  app  oved  plat 
of  the  township  embra  ing  their  claims,  file  their  declaratory  state  went  of 
sett  ement  with  'he  regi:-ter,  and  thereafter  make  proof  and  payment  of  the 
tract  within  eighteen  months  from  the  exp  ration  o<  suid  three  mo;  ths.  This 
gives  twenty  one  mo  ths  after  the  survey-  are  received  by  districi  land  officers, 
within  which  pre-emptors  must  |  a>  for  Innd. 

Upon  unnffered  surveyed  land  a  pre-empfor  must  filed  with  the  register  his 
declara'o  y  statement  within  three  months  from  the  date  of  such  settlement,  and 
must  pay  fur  the  laud  within  twenty-one  mouths  from  date  of  s-  ttl  meut. 

Upon  offered  land  the  statement  must  be  filed  within  thirty  days  of  settlement, 
and  within  one  ye  r  from  the  date  of  such  filing  the  'and  must  be  paid  for. 

By  an  act  of  Congress  approved  July  14, 1870,  ><11  settlers  who  hid  filed  for 
pre-emption  previous  to  that  date,  were  required  to  pay  f  r  their  land  before 
July  14,  1871,  but  during  the  spring  of  1871  Tongre  F  extended  th  s  time  ue 
year,  lhat  i.-<,  until  July  14,  1872,  but  this  extension  applies  only  to  those  who 
filed  previously  to  July  14,  1870. 

The  act  o'  making  any  improvement  of  whatever  character  upon  the  land 
claimed,  is  rec<  gnizt-d  as  a  settlement, 

A  pr  -empt  >r  cannot  pay  for  land  until  he  has  actually  resided  upon  the  same 
for  a  period  of  at  least  six  months  and  before  payment  must  swear  or  affirm  : 

"  That  I  have  neve--  had  the  benefit  of  any  ri^ht  of  pre-emption  um'er  this 
Act;  that  I  am  not  the  owner  of  three  hundred  and  two..ty  acres  of  laud  in  any 
State  or  Territoiy  of  the  Uui'ed  States,  nor  have  I  settled  upon  ad  improve  1 
.said  land  to  sell  the  same  on  speculation,  but  in  good  taith  t •>  appropriate  it  to 
my  own  exclusive  use  or  benefit  ;  and  that  I  have  not,  directly  or  indirect  y, 
made  any  ag'eeme^tor  contract,  in  any  way  or  ma-  uer,  with  any  per-on  or 
persons  whomsoever,  by  whic  the  title  which  I  may  acquire  from  the  Govern- 
ment of  the  Un  ted  States  shou  d  inure,  in  whole  or  in  .  art,  to  the  benefit  of 
any  person  except  myself." 

This  affi  avit  must  be  su  ported  by  at  least  one  witness,  who  must  appear 
with  the  pre-emptor  before  th  district  land  officers  in  person.  1  he  s-et  ler  can 
(then  so  'ura  >he  Ian  (  by  paying  in  cash,  01  b>  filing  H  warrant,  or  Agricultural 
Scrip  duly  assigned. 

If  a  pre-emptor  dies  before  perfecting  the  title,  his  or  her  rights  descend  to 
the  "  heirs."  The  executor  or  administrator  may  make  proof  of  occupation, 


ACQUIRING   TITLE  TO    GOVERNMENT    LANDS.    201 

and  pay  for  the  land,  and  the  patent  will  issue  to  "the  heirs  of  the  deceased 
settler." 

Pre-emptors  are  entitled  to  lands  at  one  dollar  an<1  a  quarter  per  acre  within 
the  limits  of  railroad  grants,  provided  they  locate  before  the  lands  were  "with- 
drawn "  (that  is  withdrawn  from  settl'  ment  and  sale  to  enable  the  railroad 
company  to  locate  its  li- e  after  which  the  land  is  a  ain  open  to  ee'tlementt 
excepting  that  the  odd  numbered  sections  within  a  certain  distance  are  donated 
to  the  railroad.)  Kansas  grants  are  all  for  ten  miles  on  each  side,  but  the  limits 
are  extended  to|so  much  land  within  twenty  miles  on  each  side  as  is  necessary  to 
replace  the  od  num  ered  sections  that  may  have  been  disposed  of  by  the  gov- 
ernment before  the  grant  was  made  to  the  railroad. 

The  double  minimum  lands  are  confined  to  the  linrts  of  the  original  grant; 
aud  the  even  numbered  section*  outside  of  the  original  grant,  but  within  the 
indemnity  limits,  ar»>  ll  25  per  acre. 

HOMESTEADING — The  Homestead  Laws  permit  a-  y  person  to  acquire  by'crcu- 
pation  aud  the  payment  of  •commissinns  and  fees  hereafter  noted,  one  hundred 
and  sity  acres  of  surveyed  minimum  land  or  eighty  acres  of  doubl"  minimum 
land.  'Und^r  this  law  the  settler  may  file  on  the  land  he  desires  to  obtain,  and 
that  filing  holds  good  for  six  months,  during  which  time  the  settler  must  take 
possession  of  the  land  by  occupation  and  improvement.  Affidavit  must  le 
made  that  he  or  she  is  the  hfad  of  a  family,  or  is  twenty-one  years  of  aee,  and 
that  such  application  is  made  for  his  »r  her  exclusr  e  use  and  ben  fit,  and  that 
said  entry  is  made  for  the  purpose  of  actna!  s-tt'ement  and  cultivation,  and 
not  either  directly  or  indirectly  for  the  u-*e  or  benefit  of  any  o' her  person  or 
persons  whomsoever,  and  that  the  applicant  has  not  heretofore  1  ad  the  bent  fit 
of  the  Homestead  Act.  If  the  applicant  is  actually  upon  the  land  and  ctnnot 
by  reason  of  dis  ance,  bodily  infirmi  y,  or  other  pood  cau»e,  personally  go  to 
the  district  land  office,  the  affidavit  i.;ay  be  made  before  the  clerk  of  the  court 
for  the  county  within  wh'ch  the  land  is  situated. 

Officers,  soldiers  and  sailors  who  have  served  nirety  days,  and  remained  loyal, 
may  iau.e  under  homestead  laws,  one  hundred  and  sixty  acres  instead  of  eighty 
acres  of  double  miuimi'.m  land,  but  no  oilier  dix  inctions  whatever  are  made 
between  these  and  any  other  persons.  The  applicant  must  make  oath  as  to 
the  company  an  1  regiment  in  which  he  served. 

Within  seven  years  from  the  date  of  the  duplicate  of  entry  given  to  the  settler 
by  the  receiver  at  th«  district  land  office,  the  settler  must  personally  appear 
at  said  office  and  make  affidavit  that  he  or  he  has  resided  upon  or  cultivated 
the  same  for  the  term  of  Jive  years  inim<>diately  succeeding  the  time  of  filing 
the  affi  avit  of  entry,  and  tint  no  part  of  the  land  is  alienated.  Th;>  five  years 
of  occupation  date,  not  from  the  date  of  entry  but  from  th*  date  c-f  settlement. 
The  affidavit  of  jettlement  must  be  corroborated  by  two  credible  witnesses.  If 
by  reason  of  physical  disability,  distance  or  other  go^d  cause,  they  cannot 
accompany  the  s  ttler  to  the  district  land  office,  their  testimony  may  be  tak  n 
before  any  officer  authorized  to  administer  oaths  and  who  uses  a  seal.  He  must 
certify  to  the  credibility  and  responsibility  of  the  witnesses,  und  state  the  rea- 
sons of  their  inability  to  attend  at  the  land  office.  The  register  and  receiver 


202  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

endorse  their  opinion  upon  the  testimony  and  affidavit,  and  transmit  them  to 
the  General  Land  i  ffioe  at  Washington.  If  the  proceedings  are  satisfactory  to 
them  they  alsu  give  a  certificate  to  the  settler. 

Ii"  a  homestead  settler  dies,  the  widow,  or  if  she  die,  the  heirs,  may  continue 
the  settlement  and  cu  tivation  aud  obtain  title.  If  both  parents  die,  leaving  a 
child  or  children  under  tweaty-one  years  of  age,  the  homestead  may  legally  be 
sold  by  the  administrator. 

Homesteads  are  not  liable  for  any  debt  or  debts  contracted  prior  to  the  issuing 
of  the  patent  or  deed  therefor  from  the  govern. nent. 

COMMUTING  A  HOMESTEAD — Homestead  settlers  may  pay  for  their  land  in  cash 
or  warrants  at  the  government  price,  $1  25  or  $2  50,  upon  making  proof  o  f 
actual  residence  and  cultivation  for  a  period  not  less  than  six  months  from  the 
date  of  entry  to  the  time  of  payment.  This  proof  must  be  by  affidavit  of  him" 
self  or  herself  and  two  witnesses,  made  before  the  d  strict  land  officers. 

Pre-emptors  may  change  the'r  filings  into  homestead  filings,  excepting  that  i - 
a  settler  have  a  pre-emption  filing  on  an  odd  section  within  a  railroad  grant  (i.  e. 
taken  before  the  land*  were  withdrawn  for  the  railroad)  the  railroad  righ  • 
would  immediately  attach  to  the  land,  if  he  attempt  to  make  a  homestead  filing 

Absence  from  a  homestead  more  than  six  months  at  any  one  time  before  the 
expiration  of  the  Jive  years,  if  proven  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  register  after 
due  notice  to  the  settler  forfeits  all  right  to  the  land. 

To  cancel  a  homestead  entry,  the  grounds  must  be  set  forth  in  affidavit  before 
the  district  land  officers.  They  notify  interested  parties  and  after  tnal  send 
the  testimony  and  their  own  opinion  to  Washington,  for  fiual  decision.  If 
returned  cancelled  the  land  thereupon  be  :oaies  open  to  the  first  legal  applicant. 

The  fact  that  a  person  has  had  the  benefit  of  the  pre-eaiptiou  act  does  not  in 
any  case  interfere  with  his  right  to  homestead. 

The  fact  that  a  person  has  had  the  beuefit  of  the  homestead  act  does  not 
prevent  him  from  pre-empting,  but  no  one  can  leave  his  or  her  own  land  in  the 
same  state  or  territory  to  take  the  benefit  of  the  pre-emption  act. 

Inasmuch  as  b  th  homestead  and  pre-emption  require  actual  residence  upon 
the  land  claimed,  no  person  can  hold  laud  under  both  acts  at  the  same  time. 

No  person  can  pre-empt  more  than  once. 

No  person  can  homestead  more  th.in  once. 

No  perton  can  file  a  declaratjry  statement  for  pre-emption  if  he  has  legally 
filed  before. 

No  person  can  make  a  secon>  entry  to  a  homestead  unless  the  first  entry  was 
illegal 

Pre-emption  and  homestead  rights  or  claims  can  neither  of  them  be  legally 
assigned.  Such  claims  may  be  sold,  but  the  seller  must  aband  n  the  claim  or 
resign  his  right  to  government,  and  the  purchaser  must  immediately  proceed  in 
all  respects  a.s  if  settling  upon  unoccupied  land, .excepting  that  he  is  permitted 
to  occupy  the  house  of  his  predecessor,  instead  of  building  another,  but  hi* 
right  dates  from  filing,  if  on  homestead,  or  settlement,  if  on  pre-emption  claim. 


ACQUIRING   TITLE  TO   GOVERNMENT   LANDS.    203 

The  right  to  a  homestead  dates  from  entry— that  is,  from  filing,  -which  holdg 
the  land  six  months,  but  improvements  must  be  made  within  that  time. 

The  right  to  pre-emption  dates  from  settlement. 

Adjoining  Farm  Homesteads. — Any  person  owning  and  residing  o»  lew  than 
one  hundred  and  sixty  acres  of  land,  may  homestead  so  much  adjoining  land 
as  sviall,  taken  with  his  original  farm,  make  a  value  of  not  more  than  two  hun- 
dred dollars,  computing  in  tfeis  estimate,  the  original  farm  at  $1.25  per  acre 
and  the  adjoining  homestead  at  government  price,  whether  $1.25  or  $2.50  per 
acre,  but  if  the  origiHal  farm  be  within  a  railroad  grant,  then  the  original 
farn  musL  b«  computed  at  $2.50  per  acre. 

Residence  upon  adjoining  homesteads  is  not  required,  but  in  all  other  respect 
the  law  makes  the  same  requirements  as  it  do  s  concerning  other  homesteads 
and  cultivation  is  necessary. 

Claimants  upon  unsurveyed  land  ought  to  designate  in  some  manner  the 
boundaries  of  the  land  which  they  propore  t«  enter,  else  oth«rs  might  make 
improvements  which  would,  upon  survey,  fall  upon  the  same  quarter  section.  If 
settlers  locate  at  least  a  half  mile  north  or  south,  an  i  east  or  west  from  each 
other,  they  will  each  get  a  quarter  section  by  the  surveys.  If  two  happen 
to  fall  upon  the  same  quarter  section  it  is  usually  divided  between  them, 
unless  the  first  settler  established  the  lines  of  his  claim  within  which  the  resi- 
dence of  the  other  was  afterwards  located.  In  this  case  the  second  settler  gets 
nothing. 

Persons  Iniying  a  claim  on  unsurveyed  land  should  contract  with  adjoining 
settlers  also,  or  the  latter  might  claim  the  land  thus  purchased,  from  the  fact 
that  their  settlement  dates  prior  to  that  of  the  purchaser. 

Entering  Town  Sites. — V\  henever  any  number  of  persons  not  less  than  100, 
without  regard  to  age,  sex  or  nitivity,  locate  upon  any  public  land,  to  which 
n»  prior  claim  exists,  they  may,  any  t  me  before  it  becomes  subject  to  "private 
entry,"  enter  said  land  as  a  town  site. 

If  there  an  100  persons  and  less  than  200,  they  may  enter  any  amount  not 
exceeding  320  acres.  If  more  than  200  and  less  than  1000  inhabitants,  they 
may  enter  not  more  than  640  acres.  If  more  than  1000  inhabitant',  1280 
acres,  and  for  each  additional  1000  inhabitant",  not  exceeding  5000, !  hey  may 
enter  a  further  amount  of  32  )  acres. 

If  incorpirated,  the  corporate  authorities  must  enter,  otherwise  the  Judge 
of  the  county  court  may  enter  for  the  benefit  or  the  occupants,  an  1  the  land, 
or  the  proceeds  thereof,  shall  be  assigne  1  to  the  persons  interested,  it  being 
divided  according  to  the  share  to  which  each  is  entitled  under  regulations  to 
be  prescribed  by  the  Legislative  authority  of  the  Statj  or  Territory  in  which 
the  land  is  situited. 

In  Kansas  it  is  provided  by  law  that  a  town  site  may  be  entered  under  abcfve 
named  law  of  Congress,  by  the  corporate  authorities,  or  the  Probate  Judge  of 
the  county.  See  General  Statutes  of  Kansas,  p.  1073. 

Fees.—  Pre-emptors  must  pay  $2.00  for  filing  a  declaratory  statement  of  In- 
tention to  pre-empt.  For  reducing  testimony  to  writing  when  claimant*  estab- 
lish pre  emptiou  and  homestead  claims,  fifteen  cents  for  each  hundred  words 


204 


HUTCHINSOITS    KANSAS. 


Fees  and  Commissions. 

For  locating  land  warrants  or  Agricultural  College  scrip  the  following  fees 
must  be  paid  at  the  time  of  location : 
for  a  40-acre  warrant  or  college  scrip,  50  cents  each  to  the  Regis' er  and 

Receiver— Total  $1  00 

For  a  60-acre  warrant  or  college  scrip,  75  cents  each  to  the  Register  and 

Receiver — Total 1  50 

For  an  80  acre  warrant  or  oollege  scrip,  $1  00  each  to  the  Register  and 

Receiver— Total 2  00 

For  a  120-arre  warrant  or  college  scrip,  $1  50  each  to  the   Register  and 

Receiver— Total 3  00 

For  a  160-acre  warrant  or  college  scrip,  f2  00  each  to  the  Register  and 

.  Receiver— Total 4  00 

Homestead  Fees. — On  purvey  d  lauds  in  California,  Nevada,  Oresr'  n,  Colorado, 
New  Mexico  and  Washington,  and  in  Arizona,  Idaho,  Utah,  Wyoming  and 
Montana, the  commissions  and  fee  are  to  be  paid  according  to  the  following 'able: 


00 

% 

§ 

u  « 

23 
3  ^ 
(V 

COMMISSIONS. 

FEES. 

Tot  il  Fees  and 
Commissions. 

Payab'e    when 
entry  is  made 

Payable    when 

certificate  issues 

'•ay  able   when 
entry  i*  made. 

160 
80 
40 
80 
40 

$1  25 
1  25 
1  25 
2  50 
2  50 

$6  00 
3  00 
1  50 
6  <)0 
3  00 

$6  00 
3  00 
1  50 
6  00 
3  00 

$10  00 
5  00 
5  00 
10  00 
5  00 

$22  00 
11  00 
8  00 
22  00 
11  00 

For  homestead  entries  on  surveyed  land  in  all  other  States  Hnd  Teriitories 
including  Kaneaa,  fees  are  to  be  pa  d  oc<-ording  to  the  following  table: 


B 
I 

•< 

6, 

w  « 
2  3 
3^ 
£ 

COMMISSIOXS. 

FEES. 

To'al  F"es  and 
Commissions. 

Payable   when 
entry  is  made. 

Payable     wh-  n 

certificate  issues 

Pavable  when 
entry  is  made 

160 
80 
40 
8(i 
40 

$1  25 
1  '/5 
1  25 
2  60 
2  50 

$4  00 
2  00 
1  00 
4  00 
2  (  0 

$4  00 
2  00 
1  00 
4  00 
2  00 

$10  00 
5  00 
5  00 
10  00 
5  00 

$18  00 
9  00 
7  00 
18  00 
9  00 

Officers,  soldiers  and  sailors,  taking  160  acres  of  $2  50  land,  must  pay  dou  le 
the  amount  required  as  commissions,  in  either  of  the  above  table*,  but  the 
fees  are  not  increased. 

OSAGE   TRUST  LANI>8. 

That  portion  of  the  accompanying  map  marked  "Osage  Trust  Land,"  was 
opened  to  settlement  under  two  distinct  Jaws  and  1  etice  the  n->rth  rn  two- 
ifif  hs  is  frequently  called  "Trust  Land,"  an<l  the  southern  three-fifth*,  <<T»i"  in 
«hed  Reserve,"  as  it  was  held  by  the  Osage  Indians  after  the  first  men'Ijned. 


-  - 

ACQUIRING   TITLE   TO   GOVERNMENT   LANDS.    205 

was  put  in  market.  It  is  all  sold  by  the  government  in  "  trust"  for  the  Indi- 
ans, and  is  all  "  trust  land,"  and  is  to  be  disposed  of  in  the  same  manner, 
under  decision  of  the  General  Land  Office,  made  March  29, 1871. 

It  is  on'y  to  be  sold  to  actual  settlers  at  $1.25  per  acre  and  not  more  than  a 
quarter  section  can  be  taken  by  any  one  settler. 

A  1  settlers  who  were  upon  the  land  prior  to  the  passage  of  act  of  July  15 
1870,  must  pay  for  the  land  on  or  before  July  15, 1871.  All  who  settle  after 
the  passage  of  act  (after  July  15,  1870)  and  before  the  surveys,  must  pay  within 
one  year  from  the  survey.  (Government  lands  are  considered  to  be  surveyed 
when  the  j  lats  are  returned  to  the  Local  Lmd  offices  and  not  till  then.  See 
page  199.  The  surveys  upon  this  land  will  probably  be  completed  by  Sep- 
tember or  October,  1871.)  Settlers  after  the  surveys  are  returned,  must  pay 
within  one  year  from  dite  of  settlement  Sections  16  and  36  are  reserved  for 
school  purposes,  as  elsewhere  in  the  State.  Before  making  payment,  all 
settlers  must  prove  six  months  continuous  residence  on  the  land  claimed,  and 
actual  improvement  of  some  portion  of  the  same.  • 

Claims  mu  t  be  taken  in  the  form  of  a  square  or  of  a  parallelogram,  and  if 
they  happen  to  be  divided  by  seotional  or  township  lines,  this  is  still  allowable, 
One,  two,  three  or  four  forties  (40  acre  tracts)  may  be  taken,  but  they  must 
form  a  square  body,  or  else  all  be  in  a  row.  If  a  settler  found  a  square  quarter 
section  out  of  which  one  forty  was  already  taken,  be  could  not  enter  the  three 
forth  s  remaining,  but  might  enter  either  one,  or  he  might  enter  any  two  of 
them  which  lay  "side  and  side."  Under  above  limitations  lands  may  be  taken 
through  wh  ch  a  "  meandered  stream  "  passes,  or  which  is  bound  d  on  one  side 
by  a  "  meand  red  stream."  Fractional  forties  may  be  taken,  but  the  excess 
must  be  raid  for,  or  allowance  will  be  mad^  for  any  deficiency  in  lind.  (See 
"Survey  of  Public  Lands"  for  explanatien  of  "fractional  forties  "an  i  "mean- 
dered stream-.") 

All  settlers  must,  within  three  months  from  date  of  settlement,  file  a  declar- 
atory statement,  as  in  pre-emption  cases,  and  must  correctly  describe  the  lanl 
tbey  claim,  which  must  con  orm  in  shape  to  above  requirements. 

Settlers,  when  they  file  upon  the  land,  and  also  when  they  make  proof  of 
settlement  and  payment,  must  make  affidavit  that  they  have  not,  since  July  15, 
1870,  sold  their  right  to,  or  voluntarily  abandoned  any  tract  of  Osage  Lands,  or 
settled  upon,  improve:!,  or  filed  for  any  other  tract  of  said  land  than  the  one 
designated  in  said  filing. 

After  commencing  a  settlement  upon  these  lands,  bona  fide,  settlers  will  not 
forfeit  their  claims  by  temporary  absence,  provided,  the  absence  was  for  the 
purpose  of  bringing  their  families  onto  the  land,  or  for  the  purpose  of  engaging 
"in  their  calling  of  'herdsmen'." 

Any  person,  male  or  female,  native  or  foreign,  21  years  of  age,  or  the  head 
of  a  family,  can  enter  "  Osage  Trust "  or  "  Diminished  Reserve  "  land  in  Kansas 
under  above  limitations. 

The  United  States  laws  relating  to  town  sites,  already  explained,  apply  to 
these  lands. 


206 


HUTCHINSON  S   KANSAS. 


DISTRICT  LAND  OFFICES. 

The  area  of  public  lands  in  Kansas  remaining 
unsold  and  unappropriated  on  the  30th  of  June, 
1870,  was  41,499,081  acres.  These  lands  can  be 
obtained  through  the  various  United  States  land 
offices,  which  are  located  as  follows : 

Name  of  District.  Location  of  Office. 

Topeka  Land  District Topeka. 

Humboldt  Land  District Humbwldt. 

Arkansas  Land  District Augusta. 

Western  Land  District Saline. 

Republican  Land  1/istrict Concordia. 

In  the  Topeka  Land  District  there  is  very  little 
government  land  remaining. 

The  land  north  of  the  Osage  Lands,  in  the  Hum- 
boldt and  Arkansas  land  districts,  excepting  that 
granted  to  railroads,  is  open  to  homestead  and  pre- 
emption, but  is  mostly  taken  up,  except  in  Greenwood, 
Butler  and  Sedgwick  counties,  and  the  region  west. 


STEAM   FLOURING    MILL,  POMONA. 

Watson  Stevvurl.  register  at  Humboldt  says,  "South 
of  the  Osage  lands  lying  a!on£  the  south  line  of  the 
State,  and  west  of  the  Neosho  Eiver,  is  a  strip  about 
two  and  a  half  miles  wide,  known  as  the  'Cherokee 


•LAND  SALES  IN  KANSAS.  .  207 

Strip.'     It  is  unsurveyed  and  no  provision  is  made 
for  its  sale." 

In  September,  1869,  all  the  land  in  the  Western 
and  Republican  Land  Districts  east  of  the  6th  Prin- 
cipal Meridian  was  "  offered  "  by  president's  procla- 
mation, which  made  it  subject  to  private  entry,  but 
it  has  been  so  affected  by  the  withdrawals  for  rail- 
roads, that  there  is  now  no  land  here  subject  to 
private  entry,  but  the  most  of  the  land  in  these 
districts  is  still  open  to  pre-emption  and  homestead. 

LAND    SALES    IN    KANSAS. 

The  following  figures  give  some  idea  of  the  real 
estate  business  in  Kansas  during  the  year  1870: 

*At(he  Junction  City  Land  Office: 

Sold  foi  c\sh 186,985  acres. 

Entered  as  Homesteads 666,593      ' 

Entered  wi  h  Agricultural  College  scrip 35,200      " 

Entered  with  Land  Warrants 38760     " 


Total 927,538      " 

At  the  Hnmboldt  Land  Office  : 

Sold  for  cash  274,931  acre*. 

E  torel  with  Warrants  aad  Agricultural  College  scrip 19  571      " 

Entered  ns   Homesteads 62.257      «« 

Final  Certificated  to  Homesteads 8  753      " 


Total . 365,612      " 

At  the  T->peka  Land  Office  : 
Total   sales 84,188  acres. 

I  have  not  at  hand  a  detailed  statement  of  the 
business  at  the  Topeka,  Augusta  and  Concordia 
Land  Offices,  but  it  was  not  as  great  as  at  the  other 
offices,  as  the  two  latter  are  new  offices,  and  as  most 
of  the  public  land  is  disposed  of  in  the  Topeka  Dis- 
trict. At  Topeka  there  were  sold  during  1870,  by 
private  land  firms,  276.750  acres,  for  the  sum  of 
$1,42  5,644.  This  is  exclusive  of  large  sales  by  pri- 
vate parties  on  their  own  account. 

In  these  figures,  which  are  all  taken  from  the 
books  of  the  agents,  the  sales  by  the  extensive 

*The  Land  Office  was  removed  from  this  place  to  Balina  in  April,  1871. 


208  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

• 

ersin  Junction  City  and  Humboldt  are  not  included, 
but  it  is  fair  to  suppose  that  the  private  sales  in 
these  two  places  are  more  than  Topeka  alone. 

We  then  have  the  aggregate  land  sales  in  these 
three  towns,  for  the  year  1870  as  follows : 

Humboldt  United  States  Land  Office 365  512 

Topeka  "  "          "          "      81182 

Private  Land  Offices 276,750 

Junction  Uty  United  St.tes  Land  Office 927  535 

Junction  City  aiad  Humboldt  Private  L,and  Offices 30o',000 

Total  acres 1,953,979 

The  balance  of  private  sales  not  reckoned  in 
Topeka  will  make  a  grand  total  of  at  least  TWO 
MILLION  ACRES  sold  in  the  year  1870,  in  THREE  TOWNS 
IN  KANSAS. 

It  is  needless  to  encumber  these  pages  with  more 
dry  figures,  and  the  book  is  too  small  to  exhibit  the 
entire  land  business  of  Kansas,  including  the  enor- 
mous sales  of  six  or  seven  railroad  companies,  and 
of  land  agents  and  land  companies  without  number. 
The  fact  that  land  agents  issue  for  free  distribution 
more  than  thirty  large  and  handsome  real  estate 
papers,  certifies  to  the  extent  of  their  business. 

But  in  order  to  give  our  eastern  friends  an  approx- 
imate idea  of  the  stupendous  transactions  here 
taking  place  in  real  estate,  let  us  suppose  that  the 
sales  in  the  remainder  of  the  State  are  only  equal 
to  the  sales  in  the  three  cities  enumerated. 

This  gives  a  grand  total  of  at  least  four  million 
acres.  Divide  this  amount  by  640,  the  number  of 
acres  in  a  square  mile,  and  we  have  6,250  square 
miles  of  land  sold  in  one  year,  and  mostly  to  actual 
settlers. 

Our  minds  more  readily  grasp  the  immensity  of 
these  transactions  if  we  recall  the  fact  that  the 
State  of  Massachusetts  contains  but  7,800  square 
miles.  There  was  sold  or  taken  up  in  Kansas,  chiefly 


RAILROADS.  209 

by  actual  tettlers,  during  the  year  1870,  an  area  rf  land 
almost  equal  to  the  entire  State  of  Massachusetts. 

RAILROADS; 

There  are  DOW  running  in  Kansas,  (May,  1871,) 
according  to  the  time  tables  before  me,  1,393  miles 
of  railroad,  which  has  been  almost  entirely  con- 
structed within  the  last  two  years.  These  roads 
have  been  built  in  part  by  the  aid  of  government 
bonds,  but  three-fourths  of  our  railroad  lines  have 
been  called  into  existence  by  the  demands  of  com- 
merce, and  have  been  aided  only  by  land  grants  and 
local  subscriptions.  Kansas  is  a  grand  battle-field 
for  railroad  kings,  and  this  not  as  a  matter  of  choice, 
but  of  necessity  on  their  part. 

While  there  are  in  the  United  States  many  thous- 
and miles  of  railroad,  it  is  apparent  that  most  of  the 
Northern  lines  are  but  parts  of,  or  mere  appendages 
to,  four  or  five  vast  and  powerful  organizations  which 
extend  from  the  Atlantic  seaboard  Westward.  These 
competing  lines  concentrate  and  contend  at  Chicago 
and  St.  Louis — the  two  great  cities  of  the  prairies — 
but  the  contest  does  not  end  in  those  cities.  The 
trans-Mississippi  region  offers  a  vast  business,  which 
all  desire,  and  it  is  the  peculiar  and  fortunate  situ- 
ation of  Kansas  that  she  lies  in  the  pathway  of  these 
lines.  The  competing  railroads  of  Chicago  come  to 
Kansas  through  southern  Iowa  and  northern  Mis- 
souri, and  the  competing  railroads  of  St.  Louis  come 
to  Kansas  through  central  and  southern  Missouri. 

Here  they  do  not  concentrate  at  any  one  point, 
but  by  crossing  each  other,  they  establish  points  of 
competition  in  different  sections  of  the  state.  Some 
run  directly  westward,  to  secure  the  trade  of  Colo- 
rado and  the  regions  beyond  ;  others,  southwest 
toward  New  Mexico,  Arizona  and  Mexico,  while 
others  push  directly  south  for  Texas  and  the  Gulf. 
9* 


210  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

If  one  were  to  rely  simply  upon  a  study  of  the  map, 
it  might  appear  difficult  to  assign  any  good  reason 
why  all  these  lines  should  come  from  Chicago  and 
St.  Louis  to  Kansas,  especially  some  of  those  con- 
tending for  the  Southwestern,  or  still  more  those 
looking  toward  the  Texas  and  Gulf  trade. 

There  are  various  causes  which  produce  this  result, 
and  without  professing  to  he  familiar  with  the  hidden 
things  of  railroad  magnates,  we  may  discover  some 
of  these  causes  upon  the  surface. 

The  vast  flow  of  immigration  to  Kansas  was  quite 
eufficient  to  induce  the  construction  of  several  roads  to 
our  border,  and  it  is  believed,  because  it  is  evidently 
true,  that  this  great  tide  of  immigration  is  to  con- 
tinue southwest  when  Kansas  prairies  are  all  occupied, 
as  occupied  they  soon  will  be.  Besides,  the  people 
of  Kansas  earnestly  desired  railroads,  and  have  given 
that  local  aid  which  is  necessary  to  secure  the  atten- 
tion of  capitalists.  Most  of  our  railroads  have  land 
grants  j  but  land  grant  roads  in  other  States  have 
been  awaiting  for  years  the  advent  of  capitalists,  and 
are  yet  unbuilt.  Notably  among  these  may  be  men- 
tioned roads  in  Arkansas,  and  this  brings  us  to  other 
reasons  why  the  roads  of  Chicago  and  St.  Louis  do 
not  make  a  straight  line  through  Arkansas  to  Texas 
and  the  Grulf,  instead  of  coming  around  through 
Kansas. 

The  people  of  the  former  State  have  not  been  in  a 
condition,  and  they  are  not  altogether  of  the  consti- 
tution to  invite  foreign  capitalists  to  their  State. 
Besides,  there  are  engineering  difficulties  presented 
by  the  mountains  of  southern  Missouri  and  Arkansas, 
and  even  if  it  was  a  level  country,  the  cost  of  con- 
structing railroads  would  be  greatly  increased  by  the 
heavy  bodies  of  timber  occupying  those  regions. 
Southeastern  Missouri  chiefly,  and  almost  the  entire 
State  of  Arkansas,  is  a  densely  wooded  country, 
and  emigration  moves  and  will  continue  to  move 


RAILROADS.  211 

around  those  forests,  following  the  fair  and  fertile 
prairie,  which  awaits  only  the  plow,  and  corn- 
planter,  and  wheat  drill ;  instead  of  the  axe,  and 
mattock,  and  grubbing-hoe.  These  prairies,  diversi- 
fied by  convenient  groves  and  beautified  by  bluff 
and  stream,  extend  from  Kansas  through  the  Indian 
Territory,  New  Mexico  and  Texas  to  the  Gulf,  and 
into  the  adjoining  Republic  of  Mexico  ;  and  while  it 
is  evident  to  men  who  build  railroads  that  these 
prairies  will  soon  be  densely  populated,  the  surface 
of  the  county  is  such  that  it  is  also  actually  cheaper 
to  come  through  Kansas  to  the  Gulf  than  to  go 
directly  across  through  Arkansas,  while  the  vast 
mineral  and  agricultural  wealth  of  New  Mexico  is  to 
be  developed  by  the  aid  of  our  Kansas  railroads. 

The  time  is  not  far  distant  when  Arkansas,  too, 
will  be  checkered  by  railroads ;  but  she  must  await 
her  time,  and  meanwhile  two  or  three  railroads  will 
be  built?  from  Kansas  to  the  Gulf  and  to  New  Mexico. 

But  the  thought  of  these  vast  southwestern  prairies 
brings  us  to  the  last,  but,  perhaps,  the  most  poten- 
tial reason  for  the  chosen  railroad  routes  via  Kan- 
sas. Our  State  is  the  outlet  for  the  vast  cattle  hive 
of  Texas,  because  they  can  be  driven  here  over  the- 
grass  covered  and  abundantly  watered  prairies  which 
intervene,  while  they  cannot  be  driven  through  the 
timbered  regions  we  have  referred  to.  The  extent 
of  this  trade  is  enormous,  and  for  this  trade  all  these 
roads  are  competing,  and  they  traverse  regions 
which,  as  already  shown,  are  to  supply  the  beef  mar- 
kets of  the  world. 

Concerning  our  Southwestern  roads  they  evi- 
dently are  the  shortest  route  from  the  cities  named 
to  New  Mexico  and  the  great  Southern  Pacific  Hail- 
road,  which,  in  a  few  years,  is  to  be  constructed  by 
a  short  line  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  in  latitudea. 
where  the  snow  never  falls. 


212  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

Eailroad  building  has  but  just  commenced  in  Kan- 
sas. It  is  safe  to  say  that  within  three  years,  two 
railroads  will  be  constructed  from  Kansas  to  the 
Gulf,  and  one  or  two  more  into  New  Mexico,  and  one 
or  two  others  across  the  State  to  Colorado.  The 
means  for  travel  and  traffic  afforded  by  railroads  is 
a  ncessity  of  modern  life.  Every  county  must  have 
at  least  one  railroad,  and  when  the  people  get  one 
they  only  become  more  anxious  for  another.  Within 
the  next  few  years  thousands  of  miles  of  railroad  will 
be  built  in  this  State,  enabling  every  farmer  to  reach 
New  York  in  three  or  four  days  irom  the  time  he 
leaves  his  own  door. 

Many  of  our  friends  in  the  East,  and  in  particular, 
associations  representing  the  laboring  classes,  have 
made  great  outcry  at  the  land  grants  by  which  Con- 
gress induces  the  construction  ot  railroads  in  the 
West.  This  honest  but  mistaken  conviction  is  echoed 
by  the  political  demagogues,  who  are  ever1  on  the 
alert  for  a  popular  party  cry.  The  people  who  have 
lived  any  length  of  time  on  the  frontier  are  not 
opposed  to  these  grants.  What  would  Kansas,  or 
Iowa,  or  Minnesota  be  to-day  without  railroads? 
And  yet  we  all  know  that  without  land  grants  there 
would  not  have  been  a  hundred  miles  of  railroad  in 
Kansas  to-day — nay,  railroads  would  hardly  have 
reached  our  borders,  but  for  their  encouragement  by 
4and  grants  in  States  east  of  us. 

Instead  of  ceasing  to  make  land  grants,  Congress 
ought  to  give  hereafter  more  land  than  ever  before, 
for  the  reason  that  all  along  our  frontier,  from  the 
British  Possessions  to  the  Gulf,  the  settlements 
have  reached  the  borders  of  the  timberless  plains. 
There  are  very  few  places  to-day  east  of  the  Ro-;ky 
Mountains  where  a  pioneer  can  obtain  for  a  home- 
stead, timber  and  prairie  on  the  same  quarter  section. 
Therefore,  a  railroad  is  to  him  a  necessity.  He  must 
timber  and  coal.  Even  where  native  hard 


RAILROADS. 


213 


wood  timber  is  abundant,  if  people  can  have  pine 
brought  on  a  railroad,  it  is  cheaper  and  better  for 
building  purposes. 

It  is  nonsense  to  say  the  necessary  roads  will  be 
buih  without  land  grants.  Let  the  policy  prevail 
that  would  stop  all  further  land  grants,  and  it  will 
take  a  half  a  century  to  develop  even  the  borders  of 
our  vast  plain  regions,  equal  to  the  growth  and  prog- 
ress they  will  exhibit  in  ten  j^ears  under  a  liberal 
land  grant  system.  Even  with  land  grants  it  is  no 
easy  matter  to  induce  timid  capitalists  to  build  our 
roads,  as  those  of  us  can  testify  who  labored  and 
waited  many  weary  years  for  railroads  in  Kansas. 


EXCHANGE    BANK,  ATCHISON. 


214  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 


THE   K.  P.  R.  AND   ITS    TOWNS. 

First  in  order  because  the  first  read  constructed  in  the  State  comes  the 
Kansas  Pacific  Railway.  This  road  has  two  eastern  termini  upon  the  Missouri 
river,  one  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas  river,  and  the  other  at  Lea venworth,  and 
meeting  at  Lawrence.  The  charter  required  the  first  named  terminus  to  be  at 
the  mouth  of  Kansas  river,  on  the  south  side  thereof,  which  brings  it  to  the 
State  Line  at  Kansas  City.  This  city  is  named  from  the  Kansas  river,  but  is 
not,  as  many  suppose,  in  Kansas,  but  in  the  State  of  Missouri,  and  therefore 
does  not  demand  our  attention. 

WTANDOTTE  is  on  the  no^th  bank  of  tho  Kansas  atd  the  west  bank  of  the 
Missouri  river — handsomely  situated  upon  the  gently  sloping  bluff  of  these 
streams.  A  lively  spring  branch  winds  through  the  city.  The  trains  of  the  K» 
P.  R.  are  made  up  here,  and  the  machine  shops  are  here  located,  employing 
several  hundred  persons.  The  Missouri  Pacific  Kailroad  also  continues  through 
this  city  up  the  bank  of  the  Missouri.  The  population  is  about  3,000.  It  is  the 
county  seat  of  Wyandotte  county.  About  two-thirds  of  this  county  was  origi- 
nally timbered,  but  about  one-half  of  it  has  been  cleared.  The  county  Is  noted 
for  fruit  productions.  The  State  assessment  for  taxes  is  $3  per  acre  higher 
than  in  any  othgr  county  in  the  State.  Capt.  Geo.  P.  Nelson,  State  Senator 
from  this  distric*  bu  It  and  commanded  the  first  steamboat  ever  built  in  Kan- 
sas. There  were  five  steamboats  built  hefe  for  the  Missouri  riv*  r,  of  which  but 
one  is  now  running.  The  State  Blind  Asylum  is  located  here,  and  numerous 
excellent  business  houses,  residences  and  churches  adorn  the  wide  and  graded 
streets. 

The  K.  P.  R.  from  Wyandotte  to  Lawrence  follows  the  Kansas  river,  and  the 
traveller  sees  broad  bottom  lands  from  which  the  timber  is  being  cleared  for 
domestic  uses,  leaving  fertile  farms,  but  disfigured  with  the  unsigtitly  stumps 
and  logs  of  clearings.  No  towns  of  importance  are  to  be  found  along  this  die* 
tance  of  thirty-eight  miles,  although  there  are  growing  villages,  and  a  few  miles 
distant  on  either  hand,  is  inviting  and  well  settled  rolling  prairie.  The  stations 
are  Armstrong,  Muncie  Siding,  Seconding,  Edwardsville,  Tiblow,  Lenape,  Stranger 
and  FaU  Leaf. 

LEAVENWORTH  is  situated  on  the  Missouri  river,  twenty-five  miles  by  land  above 
the  mouth  of  the  Kansas.  It  is  the  chief  city  in  the  State,  having  a  population 
of  about  25,000.  It  is  the  county 'seat  of  Leavenworth  county.  The  site  is  untur- 
passed  for  a  large  city,  consisting  of  a  series  of  gentle  rolls  and  slopes,  giving: 
admirable  building  bites  and  draiuage,  and  covering  an  area  of  six  or  eight 
square  mile3.  This  beautifully  varied  surface  reposes  in  a  vast  amphitheatre, 
formed  by  the  Missouri  Bluffs,  which  rise  to  a  bight  of  about  three  hundnd. 
feet,  and  sweep  around  it  in  crescent  shape,  each  horn  resting  upon  the  river. 
With  its  paved  levee  upon  the  river  bank— with  its  miles  of  graded  aad  Macad- 
amized streets — with  its  long  rows  of  three  and  four  story  brick  and  iren 
blocks— with  ita  numerous  and  weil  filled  wholesale  stores  of  all  classess — 
with  its  banks,  its  hotels,  its  schools,  its  gas,  supplying  all  parts  of  the  city — 


THE   K.   P.   B.   AND   ITS   TOWNS.  215 

Its  princely  residences  and  churches — with  its  four  handsome  daily  papers — 
with  its  large  machine  shops  and  manufacturing  establi»hments — T  eavenworth 
is  entitled  to  be  called  the  metropolis  of  Kansas.  Photographic  views,  else- 
where presented,  are  sufficient  evidence  of  the  character.of  the  buildings. 

The  largest  and  most  ornate  church  edifice  west  of  St.  Louis  is  the  Cathalic 
Cathedral  of  this  city.  As  illustrative  of  the  churches,  a  view  is  presented  o*" 
the  Baptist  Church. 

Leavenworth  also  has  the  honor  of  furnishing  a  United  States  Senator  in 
the  person  of  Hon.  Alex.  Culdwell,  who  was  recently  elected  to  serve  a  term  of 
Six  years  from  the  4th  of  March,  1871. 

Two  miles  above  the  heart  of  the  city  is  Fort  Leayenworth,  from  which  the 
city  derived  its  name  and  from  which  the  inhabitants  of  the  city  have  derived 
great  gain  by  furnishing  army  supplies.  This  is  not  a  fortified  poet,  but  a  little 
city  of  handsome  residences  for  officers,  and  commodious  quarters  for  soldiers, 
with  arsenals  and  depots  for  quartermaster's  and  commissary  stores.  It  is 
the  headquarters  for  the  Department  of  tke  Missouri,  and  th«  base  of  tuppliea 
for  all  the  vast  region  extending  into  and  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains.  It 
Was  located  here  because  of  the  excellence  of  the  site  and  of  the  river  landing 

Since  the  advent  of  railroads,  the  Missouri  has  lost  much  of  its  Importance, 
but  it  served  a  good  purpose  to  the  cities  upon  its  banks,  and  it  is,  in  summer, 
a  competitor  in  freights  which  reduces  them  to  a  much  lower  rate.  The  Mis- 
souri *s  navigable  by  large  steamboats  a  distance  of  twenty-five  humdred  inileg 
above  Leavenwoith,  to  Fort  Ben  ton,  and  four  hundred  and  fifty  miles  in  the 
other  direction  to  its  confluence  with  the  Mississippi. 

The  elegant,  substantial  and  expensive  bridge  which  is  soon  to  span  the 
Missouri  river  at  this  point,  is  illustrated  and  described  elsewhere.  Lack  of 
space  prevents  an  extended  description  of  the  railroads  corcentrating  at 
Leavenworth,  and  the  leader  is  referred  to  the  a'  companying  map  for  details 
upon  this  point,  not  only  concerning  Leavenworth,  but  all  other  towas  and 
cities  of  Kansas. 

Tue  Misbouri  Pacific  enters  the  city  on  the  river  bank,  connecting  northward 
with  the  Cer  tral  Pacific  at  Atchison,  with  the  St.  Joe  and  Denver  at  Troy,  and 
with  the  Union  Pacific  at  Omaha.  The  North  Missouri  has  its  depot  on  the 
opposite  shore  of  the  Missouri  where,  at  the  east  end  of  the  bridge,  concen- 
trate also  the  Hanuibal  and  St.  Joe,  and  the  Chicago,  Rock  Island  and  South- 
western. Other  railroads  west  and  south  are  projected  and  will  scon  be  built. 

Leaving  this  city  by  the  K.  P.  R..  we  cross  a  country  presenting  the  usual 
charming  variety  of  Kansas  landscape.  It  has  but  lately  passed  from  the 
ownership  of  the  Indians,  but  already  smiles  with  the  fruits  of  labor,  and  sup- 
ports promising  villages  along  the  railroad.  This  country,  extending  to  the 
Kansas  river,  was  the  home  of  the  famous  Delaware  tribe  of  Indians,  who 
figured  so  conspicuously  among  the  "  Six  Nations  "  of  early  American  history, 
and  who  furnished  from  their  Kansas  home  the  guides  and  hunters  who  accom. 
panied  John  C.  Fremont  in  his  "paih  finding"  excursions  across  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  The  stations  between  Leavenworth  and  Lawrence  are :  Peniten- 
tiary, Fairmount,  Big  Stranger,  Moore's  Summit,  Tonganoxie  and  Reno. 


216  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

LAWRENCE,  thirty  th-ee  mil«s  distant  from  Leavenworth,  is  situated  upon 
the  south  bank  of  the  Kansas  River.  Here  is  presented  a  good  illustration  of 
the  formation  of  second  bottom,  with  b'uff  and  outstretching  rolling  prairie 
in  the  back  ground,  wai'e  on  the  north  side  of  the  rivf-r  is  to  be  found  the 
bottom  proper.  A  village  of  more  than  a  thousand  inhabitants— a  city  indeed 
—has  in  the  latter  location  clustered  around  tne  railroad  buildings,  and  is 
known  as  North  Lawrence.  Hero  it  is  that  the  K.  P.  Company  are  constructing 
their  machine  shops. 

But  Lawrence  which  was  demolished  and  sacked — the  Lawrence  of  which 
the  world  has  heard,  and  which  was  named  "the  historic  cit^,"  in  a  baptism 
of  blood  and  fire— this  city  is  on  the  south  bank  01  the  Kansas  River.  It 
covers  two  or  three  square  miles  of  undulating  and  well  drained  second 
bottom,  while  an  outsUirt  of  elegant  residences  has  crept  up  the  bluffs  and 
crown  their  bights.  The  ma;n  street,  "  vassachnsetts,"  a  name  significant,  as 
is  "  Tawrence"  itself  of  the  Y»nk<e  orgin  of  its  founder",  is  a  mile  long,  and 
is  built  up  with  solid  blocks  of  brick  and  svone  business  houses,  two-thirds  of 
that  distaoca. 

When  Qaantrell'fl  reb^l  hordes  burned  the  town  in  1863,  there  were  but 
three  or  four  business  houses  left  standing  «pou  Massachusetts  street.  But 
while  the  smoke  was  yet  ascending  from  the  ruins,  and  the  earth  was  still 
fresh  upon  the  graves  of  seventy  unarmed  victims  of  the  ra-d,  the  city  council 
of  this  plucky  town,  by  ordinance  decreed  that  no  wooden  buildings  f-hould  be 
built?  up  n  Massachusetts  street.  In  consequence  of  this  courageous  edict 
hardly  any  other  western  street  is  so  pleasing  in  the  uniformity  of  its  build- 
ings. The  population  of  Lawrence  is  about  10,000.  It  is  the  county  s^at  of 
Douglas  county.  There  are  st-veral  el  gant  churches  in  Lawrence,  two  of 
which  are  herein  shown.  The  crowning  glory  of  the  city  is  the  State  University, 
elsewhere  illustrated  and  described.  It  stands  upon  the  bluff  in  the  south- 
western portion  of  the  city,  called  Mount  Oread.  Lwwrence  is  supplied  with 
gas,  its  ma'n  s  reel  is  being  paved  with  the  Wyckoff  wooden  pavement,  and 
a  company  is  organized  and  will  soon  construct  two  and  one-half  miles  o 
street  railway  through  the  principal  streets. 

The  people  of  Lawrence  pride  themselves  upon  their  patronage  of  schools, 
churches,  lectures  and  libraries.  Two  large  daily  and  weekly  papers  are  pub- 
lished here 

The  Leavenworth,  Lawrence  A'Galveston  Railroad  continues  from  this  city 
southward,  and  the  Pleasant  Hill  road  will  soon  make  direct  connection  with 
the  Missouri  Pacific,  while  other  roads,  endowed  with  land  and  local  fran- 
chises are  projected.  Lawrence  was  the  home  of  the  famous  General  James 
H.  Lane,  United  States  Senator,  now  deceased.  Here  also  reside  Hon.  E.  G. 
Ross,  late  United  States  Senator,  and  Hon.  Sidney  Clarke,  late  member  of 
CoBgress. 

Continuing  our  journey  westward  over  the  K.  P.  R.,  we  soon  emerge  from 
the  timbered  bottoms  a-  d  enter  upon  open  lands,  with  large,  well  cult  rated 
farms  and  modest  but  thriving  towns  »t  the  railway  stations,  which  are 


THE   K.  P.   AND   ITS   TOWNS.  217 

Buck  Creek,  Willy/mi sville,  Perryville,  Medina,  Newman  and  Grantville.  gome 
of  these  stations  deseive  special  mention,  did  space  permit,  being  situated  in  a 
rich  farming  country. 

Nearly  r  pposite  to  this  state,  on  thesruth  side  of  the  Kansas  river,  in  Donglas 
county,  is  the  village  of  Big  Springs,  situated  on  the  old  road  which,  bef>  re  the 
days  of  Pacific  railroads,  lead  to  California.  It  has  four  churches, hotel,  stores, 
etc.  It  is  named  from  th:  ee  large  springs  on  :he  site.  Here  was  held  the  first 
Free  State  territorial  convention,  and  here  encamped  in  the  surrounding 
rarines,  the  men  »  ho  had  determined  to  make  Kansas  a  free  state. 

Nearly  opposite  to  Perry  station  is  the  town  of  Lecompton,  which  was  tie 
Territorial  capital  of  Kansa?.  It  has  a  population  of  about  400  per  pie,  and 
here  is  located  a  thriving  imtifutiou  ol  learning  known  as  Lant  University — 
which  is  under  the  care  of  the  United  Brethren  Church. 

TOPEKA. — At  a  distance  of  twenty-eight  miles  from  Lawrence,  and  sixty-six 
miles  from  the  Missouri  river,  we  reach  Topeka,  the  capital  of  the  State  and 
the  county  seat  of  Sbawnee  county.  Its  population  is  about  eight  thousand. 

This  city,  like  Lawrence,  has  a  sister  city  north  of  the  river — North  Topeka, 
which,  with  its  bank,  whole  ale  grocery  store  and  other  establishments, 
gathers  around  the  railroad  depot  considerable  business.  Crossing  the  Kan- 
sas over  the  handsome  iron  bridge,  which  is  shown  in  the  engraving,  we  ea'.er 
Topeka  proper. 

This  bridge  deserves  a  passing  notice,  because  it  is  at  once  so  cheap,  so  ele- 
gant and  so  durable.  It  has  six  spans,  each  one  hundred  and  fi:ty  feet  long 
and  eighteen  feet  wide  in  the  clear,  with  a  sidewalk  on  each  side  The  height 
of  the  arches  is  sixteen  feet.  They  are  composed  of  boiler  plate  and  cylinder 
iron,  united  together,  so  as  to  form  a  tube  nine  by  thirteen  inches  in  size. 
Each  arch  has  two  iron  chords,  upon  which  rest  the  joist  and  floor,  and  each 
of  these  chords  are  six  inches  deep  and  three-four.hs  of  an  itch  thick.  The 
chords  and  arches  are  connected  by  struts  and  braces,  wh'ch  distribute  the 
strain  uniformly.  TLe  entir*  structure  is  of  iron,  excepting  the  floor  and 
floor  joist,  and  it  rests  upon  cut  stone  abutments  and  piers.  This  bridge  was 
brought  from  the  manufactory  of  Z.  King  &  Co.,  Cleveland,  Ohio,  but  so  great 
is  the  demand  in  this  country  that  extensive  works  for  their  manufacture  have 
been  established  at  lola,  Kansas,  which  are  illustrated  and  described  elsewhere. 

It  is  interesting  to  note  how  extensively  and  for  what  a  variety  of  purposes 
iron  is  now  used  in  place  of  wood,  and  how  admirably  its  imperishable  sub- 
stance is  adjusted  to  these  uses. 

We  have  been  so  long  on  this  bridge,  that  the  turbid  appearance  of  the 
waters  beneath  must  have  attracted  our  attention,  and  we  are  convinced  that 
the  Kansas  is  called  the  "  Little  Muddy  "  not  less  appropriately  than  tfce 
Missouri  is  named  the  "Big  Muddy." 

Topeka  covers  a  wide  extent  of  country.  The  portion  towards  the  river 
rests  upon  a  series  of  gentle  rolls  which  run  out  into  level  lasd,  while  at  the 
rear  the  site  t  lopes  southward  to  a  creek  which  is  skirted  with  timber.  The 

10 


218  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

main  street — the  broadest  avenue  to  ba  found  in  the  State — ia  well  defined  by 
adjacent  business  houses  and  residences  all  the  way  from  the  bridge  across  a 
bit  of  level  ground,  and  over  a  prairie  roll  down  to  the  creek  above  mentioned., 
nearly  two  miles  from  the  river.  This  creek  rejoices  in  the  name  of  Shunga- 
nuaga.  It  must  not  be  inferred  that  streets  are  usually  narrow  in  Kansas, 
but  "  Kansas  Avenue  "  is  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  wide,  which  makes  it 
one  of  the  broadest  in  the  State.  The  buildings  of  Topeka  are  largely  built  of 
brick  and  stone,  and  it  has  many  handsome  business  houses,  one  of  which — 
the  Kansas  Valley  National  Bank — is  represented  by  an  excellent  illustration. 
The  Capitol,  Episcopal  Female  Se.n;nary  and  Lincoln  School  all  speak  for 
themselves  by  the  illustrations  p-esented.  The  Washburn  College,  a  Congre- 
gational institution  of  promise,  is  located  here.  Topeka  is  supplied  with  gas. 

The  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  R:ulro:id  extends  southwest  from  Topeka 
and  is  about  to  be  completed  northeast  to  Atchison.  It  is  the  intention  soon 
to  build  railroads  east  to  Leavenworth,  and  also  lines  extending  north  and 
south  from  the  city. 

Recrossisg  the  bridge  we  are  again  whirled  westward  over  the  K.  P.  B.,  up 
the  broad  valley  and  across  what  was  lately  the  re-erve  of  the  Pottawatomie 
tribe  of  Indians.  Silver  Lake,  Rossville  and  St.  Mary's  are  stations  on  this 
line,  and  at  St.  Mary's  the  Catholic  Church,  which  had  a  prosperous  mission 
here  among  the  Indians,  have  ereoted  two  large  school  edifices.  This  is  a 
thriving  station  with  600  or  800  inhabitants. 

WAMEGO,  the  central  station  of  the  Kaw  Valley  division  of  the  K.  P.  R.,  is 
one  hundred  and  three  miles  from  the  Missouri  River,  and  contains  a  popula- 
tion of  about  1000  inhabitants.  As  a  fresh  engine  is  taken  from  the  round 
house  located  hire  and  the  train  stops  "twenty  minutes  for  dinner,"  we  have 
time  to  notice  that  the  town  is  commenced  near  the  river,  on  a  high  and  dry 
bottom,  whence  the  main  street  ascends  gently  northward  until  it  reaches  the 
summit  of  the  low  bluffs,  To  speak  of  the  scenery  is  to  describe  in  advance 
the  view  that  meets  the  eye  at  nearly  all  the  towns  along  the  Kansas,  or  its 
tributaries,  or  indeed  any  other  stream  in  the  State.  Far-reaching  bottooas  or 
alluvial  meadows,  which  are  one,  two,  or  three  miles  wide,  winding  river  and 
stream,  abrupt  or  sloping  bluff  and  rolling  prairies,  which  extend  until  they 
meet  the  skies  in  the  distance.  The^e  constitute  the  views  which  one  never 
tires  of  gazing  upon  in  tbeir  endless  variety,  but  of  which  the  reader  would 
weary  if  we  attempted  to  describe  them  in  detail. 

LOUISVILLE,  the  county  seat  of  Pottawatomie  county,  is  located  upon  Rock 
creek,  eight  miles  north  of  Wamego.  It  contains  a  number  of  business 
houses,  mechanic's  shops,  and  about  four  hundred  inhabit  ints,  and  is  on  high 
bottom  land,  between  two  streams.  A  good  flouring  mill  is  run  by  a  constant 
water  power.  There  is  also  good  unimproved  water  power  on  Vermillion 
Creek  and  on  the  Big  Blue. 

Beyond  Wamego  is  St.  George,  with  its  excellent  water  power,  and  one  hun- 
dred and  eighteen  miles  from  the  Missouri  is 


THE   K.  P.  AND   ITS   TOWNS.  219 

MANHATTAN.  This  town  is  situated  upon  high  bottom  and  sloping  bluffs  at 
the  junction  of  the  Big  Blue  River  with  the  Kansas.  Two  of  Kii  g's  iron 
bridges  are  being  thrown  across  these  streams.  Upon  the  former  river,  about 
three  miles  distant  from  the  depot,  is  a  splendid  water  power.  Upon  the  rock 
bottom  a  stone  dam  is  built,  three  hundred  feet  long,  and  over  this  pours  in  an 
unbroken  sheet  the  bright  waters  of  the  "  Blue."  This  furnishes  a  fall  of 
twelve  feet.  A  large  flouring  and  saw  mill  is  the  only  machinery  to  which 
this  great  power  is  at  present  applied.  Near  here  resides  II.  C.  and  G.  W. 
Chaffee,  sons  of  Judge  N.  L.  Chaffee,  of  Ohio,  who  have  a  herd  of  fifty-six 
head  of  thoroughbred  Short  Horn  cattle.  A  life-like  cut  is  given  of  one  of 
these  animals.  Manhattan  has  a  population  of  about  1500,  with  the  usual 
number  of  business  houses,  churches,  &c.  The  State  Agricultural  College, 
of  which  mention  is  made  elsewhere,  is  located  upon  the  commanding  bluff 
which  sweeps  along  the  Blue  almost  into  the  town.  The  Adams  House,  built 
and  owned  by  Maj.  N.  A.  Adams,  which  we  illustrate,  is  a  building  of  v»hich 
any  young  city  may  be  proud,  and  its  large,  airy  rooms  and  excellent  appoint- 
ments would  do  credit  to  an  old  city.  We  enter  the  region  of  the  beautiful 
maguesian  limestone  at  Manhattan,  and  this  hotel,  as  well  as  other  buildings, 
including  residences  and  churches,  is  built  of  it.  This  gives  the  town  a  neat 
and  substantial  appearance.  Railroads  from  the  north  are  expected  to  follow 
down  the  Big  Blue  to  Manhattan.  This  is  the  county  seat  of  JRiley  county. 

We  must  hasten  westward,  passing  Ogdf.n  and  Fort  liiley,  and  reaching 

JUNCTION  CITY,  one  hundred  and  thirty-eight  miles  from  the  Missouri.  It  ta 
situated  near  the  cenfluence  of  the  Smoky  Hill  and  Republican  Rivers,  which 
unite  to  form  tha  Kansas.  This  city  has  a  population  of  about  3000. 

It  is  built  upon  the  crown  of  a  low  bluff  or  prairie  roll,  between  the  streams 
a"bove  mentioned.  Its  location,  relatively  to  the  surrounding  country,  is  such 
as  to  command  an  extensive  trade,  even  from  the  remote  frontier.  The  Mis- 
souri, Kansas  and  Texas  Railroad  comes  into  th's  place,  and  will  soon  be 
pushed  northwesterly,  up  some  one  of  the  attractive  valleys  in  that  region, 
while  other  roads  will  be  built  north  and  south.  There  are  unimproved  water 
powers  in  the  vicinity,  among  which  is  reckoned  a  point  on  the  Republican, 
adjoining  the  town,  at  which,  by  cutting  a  race  way.  in  bottom  land,  three- 
fourths  of  a  mile  long,  the  entire  volume  of  the  stream  may  be  turned  into 
the  Smoky  Hill  with  a  fall  of  twelve  feet.  Five  miles  west  of  town  is  an 
excellent  unimproved  water  power,  but  one  mi!e  from  the  railroad.  Six  miles 
east  is  a  good  flouring  mill,  run  by  Clark's  Creek,  which  is  fed  by  springs. 
Three  Howe  Truss  bridges  span  the  stream  in  the  vicinity  of  Junction  City. 
Extensive  quarries  of  magnesian  limestone  have  been  opened  here,  which 
cuts  with  a  cross-cut  saw  like  wood,  and  large  shipments  are  made  of  the 
blocks.  It  is  largely  used  in  building  in  the  town.  A  beautiful  little  church 
has  been  erected  of  this  material,  of  which  I  am  glad  to  present  a  view,  and 
also  the  following  extract  from  a  letter  from  Geo.  W.  Martin,  dated  Junction 
City,  January  13, 1871.  "  We  are  having  the  finest  job  of  frescoing  done  oa 


220 

that  church  to  be  found  in  the  State."  This  is  very  high  praise,  for  there  are 
many  elegantly  frescoed  churches,  halls,  etc  ,  in  Kansas.  Junction'City  is  the 
county  seat  of  Davis  county.  The  Republican  and  Kansas  Rivers  form  the 
dividing  line  betwem  Riley  and  Davis  counties. 

Fort  Riley,  but  three  miles  distant,  is  the  source  of  considerable  business  to 
this  city.  The  residtnce  and  farm  of  His  Excellency,  General  James  M.  Bar- 
vey,  Governor  of  the  State  of  Kansas,  is  a  few  miles  north  of  Fort  Riley,  near 
Yinton  P.  0.,  in  Riley  county. 

Leaving  Junction  City  the  K.  P.  R.  follows  np  the  broad  valley  of  the 
Smoky  Hill  River  and  we  pass  the  stations  of  Chapman's  Creek  and  Detroit.  We 
have  hitherto  been  travelitg  through  a  country  where  unimproved  land  call 
be  bought  at  from  five  to  ten  or  fifteen  dollars  per  acre,  but  we  are  now  enter-- 
ing the  vast  homestead  area  of  Kansas,  where  homesteads  may  be  obtaised 
within  a  few  miles  of  the  railroad.  The  Enterprise  Flouring  Mills,  near  De- 
troit, are  asserted  to  be  the  "finest  in  Central  or  Western  Kansas,  drawing: 
patronage  from  a  half  dozen  counties  and  from  a  distance  of  nearly  a  hundred 
miles." 

ABILINE,  one  hundred  and  sixty-two  miles  west  of  the  Missouri  is  pleasantly 
situated  upon  a  small  stream  at  a  distance  ot  two  miles  from  the  Smoky  Hill, 
and  is  the  county  seat  of  Dickinson  county.  Its  population  is  about  800.  It  ia 
a  thriving  place,  having  made  itself  extensively  known  as  the  headquarters 
for  th«  eastern  shipment  of  Texas  cattle  over  this  road,  although  the  trade  ia 
d.v  ded  with  other  towns.  The  buildings  are  of  a  suLstant:al  character  and 
everything  betokens  prosperity.  In  this  coun'y  Hon.  Ezra  Cornell,  the  founder 
of  Cornell  Uuniversity  at  Ithica,  N.  Y.,  has  established  a  large  stock  farm  for  the 
breeding  of  fine  stock.  His  importations  will  be  of  immense  value  to  that 
region.  The  "Albany  Cultivator"  states  that  he  has  brought  25  head  of 
thorough-bred  Short  Horns  to  Kansas. 

Proceeding  westward  we  pass  Solomon  City,  located  upon  the  high  banks  of 
the  Solomon  River.  This  stream,  after  watering  a  broad  and  fertile  valley  in 
Northwestern  Kansas,  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  long,  empties  itself  into 
the  Smoky  Hill,  near  Solomon  City.  This  town  seems  to  be  so  situated  as  to 
command  considerable  trade,  and  near  it  are  located  the  salt  works  already 
Alluded  to. 

SALINA  is  one  hundred  and  eighty-five  miles  west  of  the  Missouri  and  was  laid 
out  by  Col.  Wm.  A.  Phillips.  It  did  not  make  rapid  progress  until  after  the 
construction  of  the  K.  P.  R.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  fine  agricultural  country, 
which  is  quite  well  settled.  There  are  farmers  near  here  who  hare  averaged 
fifty  bushels  of  corn  per  acre  for  the  last  ten  years.  The  town  has  its  usual 
quota  of  schools,  churches  and  business  houses,  and  its  population  is  about 
1300.  There  are  shipped  from  here  about  15,000  head  of  cattle  annually.  It 
is  the  county  seat  of  Saline  county,  and  commands  the  trade  of  extensive  set- 
tlements to  the  southwest.  In  1866  buffalo  were  killed  within  two  miles  of 


THE   K.  P.  R.  AND   ITS   TOWNS.  221 

Salina.  They  do  not  now  come  nearer  than  75  miles  to  the  west.  There  is  ft 
very  good  unimproved  water  power  on  the  Saline  river  near  Salina.  The  U.  8. 
Land  Office  is  located  here. 

Proceeding  westward  past  Bavaria  and  its  flourishing  colony,  we  reach 
Brookville,  at  a  distance  of  two  hundred  miles  west  of  the  Missouri.  Here 
the  Kaw  Valley  Division  of  the  K.  P.  R.  terminates  and  the  Smoky  Hill  Divis- 
ion commences.  The  company  are  erecting  expensive  railroad  buildings  For 
this  purpose  an  excellent  quarry  of  red  sandstone  has  been  opened  beside  the 
railroad  track  near  here.  We  are  now  fairly  within  the  region  of  buffalo 
grass,  where  all  the  uplands  are  covered  with  this  nutritious  herbage,  although 
the  wide  bottoms  to  the  extreme  western  part  or  the  State  produce  tall  grassef. 
As  showing  the  demand  for  accommodations  for  shipping  stocV,  it  may  be 
mentioned  that  the  railroad  company  have  stock  yards  at  Brookville,  at  which 
ceven  cars  can  be  loaded  at  once. 

The  stations  of  Spring  RocTc,  Elm  Creek,  Summit  Siding  and  Fort  Barker  are 
passed  to  bring  us  to 

ELLSWORTH.  This  town  is  situated  upon  the  Smoky  Hill.  We  left  this  stream 
at  Salina,  and  crossed  the  prairies  a  distance  of  thirty-seven  miles,  instead  of 
following  its  wide  southern  detour.  The  town  is  surrounded  by  a  fine  farming 
country,  and  well  adapted  to  sto-k  raising.  It  is  the  county  seat  of  Ellsworth 
county.  It  is  of  this  reg'on  that  Rev.  J.  Sternberg  speaks  in  his  exce'lent 
letter  from  Fort  Harker,  near  which  small  military  po-.t  his  farm  is  situated. 

The  country  intervening  between  here,  Fort  Hays,  Hays  City  and  Ellis,  ia 
little  settled  as  yet,  as  the  railroad  has  not  been  long  completed.  The  la»ter 
place  is  three  hundred  miles  from  the  Missouri  River  and  is  a  division  statione 
upon  the  railroad.  Wide  bottoms  and  fine  farmiug  lands  are  to  be  found  here. 

This  country  cannot  long  remain  unoccupied  when  there  are  so  many  people 
in  the  world  without  lands,  which  here  are  ready  for  occupation.  We  are  now 
on  the  great  buffalo  range  of  the  North  American  continent,  where  as  many  of 
this  monstrous  game  as  one  desires  may  be  killed  at  pleasure. 

The  State  extenls  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  west  of  Ellis.  The 
western  boundary  line  has  not  been  established  by  survey,  but  it  is  on  the  one 
hundred  and  second  degree  of  longitude  west  from  Greenwich.  The  supply  of 
timber  gradually  diminishes  west  from  Junc'ion  City,  and  beyond  Salina  it  iff 
only  found  on  this  route  in  narrow  belts  and  isolated  greoves.  The  line  of  the 
K.  P.  R.,  t'y  some  mystery  of  engineering,  was  located  upon  tha  divide,  or 
watershed,  between  the  Smoky  Hill  and  Saline  Rivers,  the  entire  distance  of 
two  hundred  miles  west  from  Ellsworth  to  the  State  line.  The  traveler  sees 
for  a  good  pirt  of  thit  distance  a  hiijh  rolling  surface,  pleasant  to  look  upon, 
because  of  its  gentle  undulations,  but  comparatively  desti  ute  of  running 
water  and  timber.  But  out  of  sight,  at  a  distance  of  a  few  miles  on  each  side, 
may  be  found  an  abundance  of  running  water,  sheltering  bluffs  for  a'ock,  and 
a  small  supply  of  timber. 


222  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS.- 

The  following  description  of  this  country  written  in  April  last,  is  extracted 
from  the  official  report  of  a  committee  of  the  Chicago  Colony,  sent  to  Kansas 
to  select  a  location : 

'•The  climate  here  is  very  mild,  vegetation  being  already  several  inches  high. 
We  experienced  no  inconvenience  from  lying  on  the  gronnd  for  several  nights, 
with  nothing  but  a  buffalo  skin  for  a  bed.  We  should  call  this  the  paradise  of 
cattle  and  consumptives.  Here  swarmed  countless  thousands,  the  buffalo,  elk, 
the  antelope  and  deer. 

"So  far  as  the  committee  could  discover,  all  the  requisito  conditions  are  here 
fulfilled.  1st.  A  climate  of  surpassing  salubrity.  2d.  Cheap  lands,  with  a  rich 
soil.  3d.  Water  and  timber.  4th.  An  unsettled  country,  inviting  to  immediate 
county  organization,  where  under  our  own  auspices,  all  the  initial  work  of 
education  and  civil  and  religious  institutions  could  be  commenced." 

This  report  elsewhere  spefks  of  coal  in  abundance,  and  explains  the  matter 
of  timber  by  showing  that  it  is  found  in  limited  quantities  only.  There  is 
much  more  timber  in  Western  Kansas  than  has  been  supposed  until  lately,  but 
the  amount  is  very  small  compared  with  Eastern  Kansas.  "The  truth,  the 
whole  truth,  and  nothing  but  the  truth,"  is  what  emigrants  want,  and  what 
this  book  is  intended  to  furnish,  so  far  as  space  will  permit. 

The  K.P.  R.  continues  westward  from  the  State  line  to  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, or  rather  to  Denver,  which  is  twelve  miles  east  of  the  mountains  and  six 
hundred  and  twenty-eight  miles  west  of  the  Missouri  River.  From  Denver  the 
same  company  operate  the  Denver  &  Cheyenne  R.  R.  to  Cheyenne,  one  hundred 
miles  north  of  Denver,  on  the  Union  Pacific  R.  R.  The  K.  P.  R.  is  also  building 
branch  roads  into  the  mountains  of  Colorado,  and  will  soon  construct  a  line 
throrgh  the  mountains  towards  Salt  Lake  City. 

The  Land  Commissioner  for  the  Kansas  Pacific  Railway  is  Hon.  J.  P.  Devereux 
Lawrence,  Kansas.  The  lands  of  this  road  are  also  sold  by  the  National  Land 
Company,  who  have  effaces  along  the  line,  and  al~o  in  New  Yoik  and  Chicago 
with  headquarters  at  Topeka. 

THE  C.  B.  U.  P.  R.  R.  AND  ITS  TOWNS. 

ATCHISON  is  the  eastern  terminus  of  the  Central  Branch  Union  Pacific  Rail- 
road, and  is  situated  at  the  extreme  western  elbow,  made  by  the  Missouri 
River  in  its  windings  along  the  eastern  border  of  Kansas.  It  has  a  popula- 
tion of  about  8000,  and  is  lighted  with  gas.  It  is  the  county  seat  of  Atchison 


In  tne  configuration  of  its  surface  the  site  presents  every  variety  desirable 
In  a  town,  whether  of  level  low  land,  sloping  rolls  or  towering  bluffs,  so  that 
one  may  live  on  hill  or  in  dell,  as  suits  one's  fancy.  It  is  of  course  well 
drained,  and  a  streamlet  here  enters  the  Missouri,  after  coursing  through  the 
town.  This  city  is  a  place  of  extensive  business  and  is  headquarters  for  the 
railroad  of  which  we  are  speaking.  The  Missouri  Pacific  terminates  here,  and 


THE   C.  B.  IT.   P.  R.  B.  AND   ITS   TOWNS.         223 

the  Atchison  and  Nebraska  railroad  continues  northward,  cro  sing  the  St. 
Joe  and  Denver  Railroad  at  Troy,  and  is  rapidly  pushing  north  to  connect  with 
the  Nebraska  system  of  railroads.  The  Atthison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  Failroad 
has  its  northeastern  terminus  here,  although  not  yet  completed  between  this 
place  and  Topeka.  Upon  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river  is  the  North  Missouri 
Railroad,  connecting  with  the  St.  Joseph  \ines.  Loaded  cars  cross  the  river 
on  a  steam  ferry. 

In  its  banks,  business  houses,  churches,  schools  and  residences,  Atchison  can 
vie  with  many  cities  in  the  east,  which  are  fifty  or  a  hundred  years  old.  The 
people  of  Atchison  point  with  commendable  pride  to  theii  Central  School 
building,  which  cost  about  $45,000.  It  stands  upon  a  site  where  a  similar 
structure  was  burned  but  about  a  year  before  this  was  erected.  It  contains 
ten  school  rooms,  each  28x33  feet,  with  commodious  wardrobes,  and  has  an 
audience  room  33x60  feet,  with  rooms  for  appara'us,  etc.  The  first  thing  done 
in  our  live  Kansas  towns  is  to  build  a  church  and  a  fine  school  house.  The  C. 
B.  U.  P.  extends  one  hundred  miles  west  to  Waterville,  and  on  this  line  there 
are  nineieea  stations  and  towns.  Many  of  them  are  but  just  starte',  as  the 
road  was  recently  completed,  but  there  are  about  seventy  or  eighty  bto res  on 
tha  line,  dealing  in  groceries,  notions,  produce  and  dry  goods. 

The  first  station  is  Farmington,  twelve  miles  west  of  Atchison,  located  in  a 
fertile  and  populous  farming  region.  This  description  applfes  to  all  the  land 
along  this  road  in  fact,  excepting  as  you  proceed  westward,  the  country  ia 
newer  and  more  sparsely  populated.  Monrovia,  upon  the  Stranger  Creek,  and 
Effingham,  which  is  the  .11.  R.  station  for  Grasshopper  Falls,  being  pavt  we 
come  to 

Muscotah,  which  is  one  of  the  largest  and  prettiest  towns  on  the  road.  It  is 
located  upoa  the  banks  cf  Grashopjer  river  which  here  furnishes  a  fine  water 
power.  It  is  the  home  of  U.  S.  Senator  Pomeroy,  who  has  here  an  excellent 
and  well  improved  farm.  Mjaor  W.  F.  Downs,  General  Superintendent  and 
Land  Commissioner  of  the  road,  who  resides  at  Atchison,  also  has  a  ca-efully 
selected  farm  at  this  place,  and  these  ger  tlem<jn,  by  the  introduction  of  stock 
of  the  best  breeds  and  pure  blood,  and  by  the  most  improved  system  of  culti- 
vation, are  making  moael  farms.  The  town  is  within  the  borders  of  the  late 
Kickapoo  Reservation.  Passing  Whiting  we  arrive  at  Netawaka,  thirty-six 
miles  west  of  Atchison.  It  is  a  rapidly  growing  town,  situated  in  a  prosperous 
community.  From  here  a  daily  line  of  stages  run  in  connection  with  the 
trains  to  Holton,  nine  and  a  half  miles  distant,  the  county  seat  of  Jackson 
county.  The  latter  is  a  place  of  promise,  situated  on  one  ot  the  chief  tribu- 
taries of  the  Grasshopper.  It  has  excellent  prospects  for  a  railroad  from  the 
north  to  follow  down  the  latter  stream. 

Beyond  Netawaka  are  Wetmore,  Sherman,  Corning  and  Centralia,  the  latter 
sixty-two  miles  from  the  Missouri.  It  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  prospar- 
ous  towns  on  the  road.  Beyond  are  Ve.rmillion  and  Frankfort,  the  latter 
having  a  fine  water  power  on  the  Vermillion,  close  by. 


224  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

Barretts,  three  mi'es  beyond,  also  has  water  power,  and  at  Elizabeth  are 
find  magnesian  limestone  quarries.  The  rock  with  which  the  abutments  of 
the  Leavenworth  bridge  are  built,  were  wrought  from  this  quarry.  Irving 
next  beyond,  ninety  miles  from  Atchison,  is  located  near  the  Big  Blue  River, 
and  is  the  seat  of  "  Wetmore  Institute"  of  learning,  which  is  tinder  the 
charge  of  the  Presbyterian  Church.  Irving  is  a  thriving  town,  b^ing  sur- 
rounded by  good  farming  country.  Five  miles  beyond  is  Blue  Rapids,  located 
at  one  of  the  best  water  powers  in  the  State.  It  is  being  extensively  im- 
proved by  an  enterprising  colonv,  at  a  heavy  expense.  The  orgnizntion  was 
known  as  the  Genesee "colony  from  Western  New  York,  and  they  publish  that 
they  chose  the  site  because  of  "  facility  of  transportation,  railroad  station, 
fuel,  excellent  building  sto  je.  sand  in  the  river,  good  land,  picturesque  scenery, 
and  unfailing  water  power  for  the  machinery  often  or  twenty  mills."  They 
assert  that  "temperance,  morality,  education  and  religion  are  the  bases  and 
bulwarks  of  good  society  and  permenent  prosperity.  The  town  was  laid  out 
February,  1870,  aud  has  been  greatly  prospered. 

The  claims  of  this  col  ny,  as  to  advantages  of  location,  and  the  platform  of 
membership,  are  published,  not  because  of  their  novelty,  but  to  illustrate  why 
it  is  that  settlers,  singly  and  in  colonies,  are  attracted  to  Kansas 'in  greater 
numbers  than  to  any  other  State,  and  also  why  it  is  that  Kansas  society  is 
confessedly  so  excellent.  If  we  except  the  water  power — for  I  do  not  claim 
that  all  the  towns  in  Kansas  have  available  water  power — I  am  confident 
that  a  considerable  proportion  of  the  towns  in  this  State  were  starred  upon  the 
same  basis  as  that  of  Blue  Rapids. 

West  of  the  latter  place,  and  one  hundred  miles  from  Atchison,  is  the 
promising  young  town  of 

WATERVILLE.  It  is,  at  this  writing,  (January,  1871,)  but  about  two  years  old. 
Lots  which  six  months  ago  sold  for  twenty  to  seventy-five  dollars  each,  are 
now  selling  at  one  hundred  to  three  hundred  dollars  each.  This  rise  in  real 
estate  is  a  fair  average  op  the  percentage  of  rise  in  Kansas  towns  at  their  most 
prosperous  stage.  Being  the  westernmost  railroad  town  in  the  vicinity,  Wat«r- 
ville  commands  the  trade  of  an  ext  nsive  frontier,  and  has  about  tweaty-five 
or  thirty  stores,  with  banks,  fine  hotels,  churches,  etc..  Its  depot  is  one  hun- 
dred and  ten  feet  long.  It  is  expected  that  one  or  two  more  railroads  will 
center  here. 

Stages  run  to  Mirysvitte,  Washington,  Clyde  and  Concordia.  The  town  has  a 
fine  water  rower,  extensive  quirries  of  white  magnesian  limeston  \  and  large 
fields  of  gypsum  are  found  in  the  vicinity. 

It  is  proposed  soon  to  resume  work  upon  the  C.  B.  TJ.  P.  R.  R.,  pushing  it 
westward  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  li  >e  as  shown  on  our  map.  The  country 
through  wlrch  the  road  will  be  bu'lt,  is  among  the  most  des  rable  in  the  State, 
.being  supplied  with  everything  that  is  neoded  to  support  a  dense  population. 


THE   ST.   J.  &   D.   R.    R.    AND   ITS   TOWNS.       225 

THE  ST.  J.  &    D.  R.  R.  AND   ITS    TOWNS. 

The  Saint  Joseph  &  Denver  City  Railroad  commences  on  the  west  baak  of 
the  Missouri  River,  at  El  wood  in  Kansas,  opposite  to  the  city  of  St.  Joseph, 
Missouri.  From  the  little  village  of  Elwoocl  the  read  runs  across  the  Missouri 
River  bottom,  a  distance  of  about  six  miles  to 

"W  ATHENA — This  city,  of  about  1,500  inhabitants,  is  the  largest  town  in 
Doniphan  county.  It  is  situated  just  within  the  valley  of  Peter's  Creek, 
where  the  latter  opens  from  the  bluff  on  either  side  into  the  Missouri  River 
bottom.  Th3  stream  furnishes  a  good  water  power,  which  is  improved  by  a 
flouring  mill  and  woolen  factory,  while  another  mill  is  run  by  steam.  The 
public  school  building  is  claimed  to  be  one  of  the  finest  in  the  State.  A 
railroad  is  projected  down  the  Missouri  bott  m  to  Doniphan,  in  the  southeast 
portion  of  the  county,  there  to  intersect  the  Atchison  <fe  Nebraska  Ra'lroad. 

From  Wathena  our  railroad  follows  up  Peter's  Creek  to  TROY,  the  county 
seat  of  Doniphan  county.  This  place  is  situated  on  high  ro  ling  prairie,  where 
the  stream  we  have  been  following  heads  in  numerous  springs  in  and  around 
the  town.  This  place  also  boa-sts  of  its  fine  public  school.  The  population  is 
about  1,000. 

About  a  mile  southwest  of  Troy  the  road  we  are  following  is  crossed  by  the 
Atchison  &  Nebraska  R.  R.  Continuing  westward  vre  pass  Norway  and  Sever- 
ance, new  and  growing  railroad  stations,  with  a  considerable  grain  trade. 

Entering  Brown  county  we  pass  the  new  town  of  St.  Francis  and  reach 
HIAWATHA,  the  county  sea*.  The  town  is  pleasantly  situated  on  high  rolling 
prah-ie  in  the  midst  of  a  good  country.  Ir.  has  the  usual  complement  of 
churches  and  schools,  and  an  enterprising  population.  At  Padona,  a  few  mi'es 
northwest  a  good  mill  is  build  ng  to  be  run  by  water.  Other  mills  run  by 
steam  are  convenient  for  the  people.  Coal  is  'extensively  'used  for  domestic 
purposes  in  this  county,  aa  well  as  in  all  the  counties  along  this  line,  although 
timber  is  abundant. 

Passing  Hamlin  station,  we  reach  Sdbeiha,  which  is  situated  just  in  the  edge 
of  Nemaha  county.  A  short  distance  to  the  north  is  Albany,  and  southward  is 
Cap;oaa,  which  are  the  post  office  centres  for  a  thrifty  farming  population. 
It  is  proposed  to  run  a  railroad  through  this  vicinity  to  connect  the  Ne- 
braska and  Kansas  railroads.  Passing  another  station,  .the  name  of  which 
is  unknown  to  me,  we  reach  the  thriving  town  of 

SENECA,  the  county  sei*  of  Nem  iha  county.  It  has  a  population  of  about 
XOOO,  and  is  situated  on  gently  sloping  table  land  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Nemaha  river,  which  runs  northward  into  Nebraska.  Seneca  contains  a  fine 
stoic  ichool  house,  churches,  etc.,  and  is  growing  rapidly.  Nine  miles  to  the 
south  is  Centralia,  on  the  C.  B.  U.  P.  R.  R.,  and  a  daily  s'age  connects  the 
two  places.  A  railroad  will  soon  be  built  from  the  C.  B.  U.  P  R.  R.,  from  some 
convenient  point  southeast  of  Seneca  to  this  place.  It  will  be  about  fourteen 
miles  long,  and  will  make  th^  distance  from  Seneca  to  Atchison  sixty-four 
miles,  while  it  is  seventy- s^ven  miles  to  St.  Joseph. 


226  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

The  road  over  which  we  are  parsing  was  opened  to  travel  since  January  1, 
1871,  and  stations  are  not  established  at  all  needful  points,  as  yet.  The  next 
town,  and  the  present  terminus  of  the  road,  is 

MARTSVILLE,  the  county  seat  of  Marshall  county.  It  is  situated  on  the  east 
bank  of  the  Big  Blue  River,  on  high  sloping  bottom,  and  the  adjacent  bluffs. 
It  has  a  population  of  800  or  1000  people,  and  is  rapidly  growing.  The  river 
affords  an  excellent  water  power.  Upon  its  rocky  bed  a  dam  is  built  of  stone, 
•whence  the  water  is  conveyed  several  rods  through  a  tunnel  in  the  solid  rock, 
to  the  mill  below.  A  good  bridge  spans  the  river.  The  counties  through 
•which  this  road,  as  well  as  the  C.  B.  U.  P.  railroad  parses,  are  among  the  most 
desirable  in  the  State  for  farming  purposes.  A  large  amount  of  wheat  is 
raised  in  these  counties,  and  probably  more  spring  wheat  than  in  any  other 
portion  of  Eastern  Kansas,  although  winter  wheat  succeeds  admirably  here. 
These  counties  are  quite  well  settled,  as  will  be  seen  from  the  census  returns. 
Timber  is  abundant,  and  the  climate  is  healthy,  but  of  course  a  little  more 
hay  is  required  to  carry  stock  through  the  winter,  than  in  Southern  Kansas. 

This  Railroad  is  to  be  built  northwest,  striking  the  Little  Blue,  and  follow- 
ing up  that  stream  into  Nebraska  and  to  Fort  Kearney,  where  it  connects  with 
the  Union  Pacific  Railroad. 

THE   A.  &    N.  R.  R.   AND   ITS   TOWNS. 

The  AtchisoH  &  Nebraska  Railroad  commences  at  Atchison,  as  its  name 
indicates,  although  there  is  talk  of  connecting  it  with  the  Leavenworth,  Law- 
rence &  Qalveston  road,  at  Lawrence,  both  being  chiefly  under  one  ownership. 

From  Atchison  this  road  runs  on  the  Missouri  River  bottom  lands  to  Doni- 
pTian,  a  town  of  several  hundred  people,  with  a  large  grain  trade,  whence  it 
climbs  a  considerable  grade,  following  Rock  Creek  and  passing  Brenner 
Station,  crossing  the  St.  Joseph  &  Denver  road  near  Troy.  Beyond  is 
down  grade  to  the  stations  of  Fanning  and  Highland  Station.  The 
latter  is  connected  by  stage  from  the  trains  with  Highland,  a  village  of  300  or 
400  enterprising  people,  situated  on  high  rolling  prairie,  in  a  densly  settled 
farming  community.  The  place  is  the  scat  of  H'ghland  University,  an  excel- 
lent school  for  both  sexes.  A  shaft  is  being  sunk  at  this  place  for  coal,  which 
crops  out  in  several  places  in  the  county.  Iowa  Point,  a  small  village  on  the 
Missouri  River,  is  the  next  station. 

WHITE  CLOUD  is  the  last  station  on  this  road  in  the  State  of  Kansas,  and  is 
the  northeastern  town  of  the  State.  It  is  well  situated  for  business  on  the 
Missouri  River,  and  has  an  extensive  trade  with  that  part  of  Kansas,  as  well 
as  the  adjacent  portions  of  Nebraska  and  Missouri.  The  population  is  about 
1,200.  On  the  opp  site  or  eastern  side  of  the  Missouri  River  runs  another 
railroad,  from  which  a  branch  or  spur  is  building,  or  about  to  be  buil*-,  to 
White  Cloud.  The  town  has  good  churches,  &c.,  and  is  surrounde  1  by  a  rich 
country  and  an  abundance  of  timber.  It  has  several  saw  mills  in  the  vicinity, 
and  manufactures  more  lumber  than  any  oth  r  town  in  the  State, 


THE   MISSOURI   RIVER   RAILROAD. 


227 


This  road  is  now  building  into  Nebraska,  to  Brownsville,  and  on  up  the 
Missouri  River. 

lam  informel  that  the  elevations  furnished  me  on  thfs  road  and  inserted 
upon  my  map,  were  incorrect,  and  that  the  figures  should  be  as  follows,  show- 
ing the  elevations  of  depots  in  feet  above  the  ocean  level:  Atchison,  800; 


BANCROFT    BLOCK,  EMPORIA. 

Doniphan,  835;  Brenner,  947  ;  Troy  Junction,  1,121;  Fanning,  888:  Highland 
Station,  871 ;  Iowa  Point,  852;  White  Cloud,  864. 


THE    MISSOURI   RIVER   RAILROAD. 

This  railroad  commences  at  the  State  line,  near  Kansas  City,  and  passing 
through  Wyandotte,  follows  the  Missouri  River,  with  unimportant  stations, 
which  are  s'own  on  the  accompanying  map,  to  Leavenworth,  thence  up  the 
river  to  Atchison.  The  road  is  chiefly  owned  in  Leavenworth,  but  is  leased  to 
and  run  by,  the  Missouri  Pacific  Railroad. 


228  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 


M.  K.  &  T.  R.  R.  AND  ITS    TOWNS. 

Commencing  at  Junction  City,  the  Missouri,  Kansas  and  Texas  Railroad,  was 
constructed  ac.oss  the  divide  between  the  waters  of  the  Kansas  and  the  Neosho 
rivers  ana  down  the  valley  of  the  latter  into  the  Indian  Territory.  It  was  for- 
merly known  as  the  Neosho  Valley  Railroad,  and  still  later  as  the  Southern 
Branch  Union  Pacific.  Leaving  the  depot  at  Ju  ctiou  City,  which  is  common 
to  this  road  and  the  K.  P.  R.,  we  follow  up  the  considerable  grade  which  leads 
us  across  Clark's  creek  to  Skiddg,  and  across  the  divide  to  Parker,  on  the  upper 
waters  of  the  Neosho  River.  Extensive  settlements  have  recently  been  made 
in  this  region  by  colonies  from  various  localities,  and  especially  from  Ch'cago, 
Illinois,  and  another  from  Cincinnati,  Oho.  At  Parkersville,  which  is  a  new 
place,  preparations  are  making  for  a  speedy  enlargement  of  the  business 
facilities.  This  place  is  1,339  feet  above  the  oc^an,  its  elevation  being  but  a  trifle 
less  than  that  of  Brookville  on  the  Kansas  Pac'fic,  seventy  miles  west. 

COITNCIL  GROVE  is  situated  on  the  Neosho,  and  was  a  well  kn  -wn  trading  post 
upon  the  old  San'aFe  wagon  road.  It  is  th?  county  seat  of  Morris  county, 
and  conta  ns  a  popul  ition  of  about  1000.  It  is  situated  just  outside  of  the 
boundary  of  the  Kansas  or  Kaw  Indian  Reserve,  which  is  about  to  be  opened 
to  settlement.  Coal  mines  of  fair  quality  are  opened  in  this  county,  and  in 
Lyon  county  adjoining.  This  enterprising  pla-e  is  expecting  another  Eistern 
railroad  to  be  soon  construe  ed. 

Going  down  the  widening  valley  of  the  Neosho,  we  pa«s  the  growing  station  of 

Americus,  whic  is  situated  in  a  very  desirable  farming  region  and  is  the 
promising  business  centre  for  a  thriving  cou  itry.  Here  as  in  Kansas  style,  is  a 
good  stone  s  ;hool  house,  and  a  cheese  factory  i<  located  here,  which  uses  the 
milk  of  about  350  cows.  The  village  has  300  or  400  inhabitants  A  valu  ;ble 
unimproved  water  power  on  the  Neosho  river  is  near  Americus. 

EMPORIA  is  distant  60  miles  from  Junction  City  and  61  miles  from  Topeka, 
with  which  it  is  connected  by  the  Atchison  and  Topeka  and  Santa  Fe  R  R.  It 
is  located  on  an  undulating  praii  ie  between  and  near  the  Neosho  and  Cutton- 
wood,  and  a  few  miles  from  the  junction  ot  these  streams.  It  is  the  county  seat 
of  Lyon  county,  and  contains  a  population  of  about  3,000  people.  The  valleys 
about  Emporia  are  famous  for  their  well  tilled  farms,  and  the  town  commands 
a  very  extensive  trade,  owing  to  its  advantageous  position  relative  to  the  vast 
and  rapi  'ly  growing  region  laying  south  and  west.  The  citizens  also  lock  with 
confidence  for  the  spe  d  cons  ruct'on  of  another  railroad  from  the  direction 
of  Ottawa.  Many  fine  business  houses,  private  reriden  es  witu  churches  and 
school  houses  ot  like  character  adorn  the  streets  of  this  city.  It  has  also  aided 
greatly  '.o  its  otherwise  fair  fame  by  rigorously  prohibiting  the  sale  of  intoxica- 
ting liquora.  The  State  Normal  Schoo'.  is  located  at  Emporia  and  is  in  a  very 
prosperous  condition,  owing  partly  without  doubt,  to  the  iute  est  manifested 
by  the  citizens  in  regard  to  its  welfare.  Both  the  Neosho  and  the  Cotton  wood 
furnish  water  power  with  fine  mills,  and  there  aiv,  other  unimproved  water 
powers  in  the  vicinity. 


230  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

Eight  miles  below  Emporia  is  Neosho  Rapids,  it  be'ng  the  station  for  a  town 
a  mile  or  two  distant  on  the  north  side  of  the  Neosho,  below  its  junction  with 
the  Gottonwood.  Here  is  an  excellent  water  power, awaiting  improvement.  It 
is  not  improbable  that  the  new  railroad  fiom  the  northeast  will  eater  the  valley 
at  this  point. 

Hartford,  next  below,  has  the  commencement  of  a  school  under  the  M.  E. 
Church,  which  will  doubtless  grow  to  meet  the  requirements  of  this  populous 
region. 

The  station  of  Strawn,  a  newly  established  town  of  same  promise  next  is 
met  in  our  trip  down  the  "  far  famed  Neosho  vail  -y,"  bringing  us  to 

BURLINGTON,  situated  in  the  centrn  of  Coffey  county,  of  which  it  is  the  county 
seat,  and  has  a  population  of  about  1,400.  The  town  is  located  immediately 
on  the  south  bank  of  the  Neosho  River,  down  which  we  have  now  followed 
until  we  find  it  to  be  a  large  stream.  A  dam  has  been  thrown  across  it  at  this 
point,  and  a  valuable  water  power  secured,  by  whioh  a  woolen  factory  and  two 
flouring  mills  are  operated.  The  dam,  ju;t  above  the  town,  is  300  feet  long, 
and  by  a  canal  one-half  mile  long,  an  excellent  powe.r  is  obtained  in  the  town, 
with  sixteen  feet  head.  A  small  run,  fed  by  springs,  winds  its  way  through 
the  town,  giving  variety  to  the  rolling  town  site.  BurUngtonians  expect  to  be 
blessel  with  two  more  railroads  at  no  remote  day,  one  from  Ottawa  and 
another  from  the  north.  • 

Continuing  on  the  south  side  of  the  river  for  miles,  we  reach  Le  Roy  station, 
which  is  two  or  three  miles  away  fro  21  Le  Roy,  the  town  it  represents.  The 
latter  is  immediately  upon  the  north  bank  of  the  Neosho,  in  the  heart  of  a  pros- 
perous community  of  farmers,  and  it  contains  some  hundreds  of  inhabitants.  A 
eteam  flour  mill  is  in  town,  and  a  flour  mill  run  by  water  near  by,  while  two 
other  excellent  mill  sites  are  awaiting  development. 

I  have  not  hitherto  spokm  of  saw  mills,  for  it  is  to  be  understood  that 
they  are  abundant  in  all  parts  of  Kansas. 

NEOSHO  FALLS  is  the  next  town  which  attracts  our  attention  upon  this  route. 
Among  the  many  claims  it  presents  to  immigrants  is  its  pleas  in t  site  on  the 
south  bank  of  the  Neosho.  The  volume  of  this  river  has  been  so  much  in 
creased  by  the  numerous  tributaries  that  enter  it  upon  both  sides,  that  it  is 
no  longer  the  modest  creek  we  found  soon  after  leaving  Junction  City.  It  has 
swollen  to  a  river  of  importance,  and  upon  its  smooth  and  solid  rock  bottom 
a  dam  is  constructed  at  Neosho  Falls,  which  extends  across  the  river.  It  is  200 
feet  long,  and  gives  eight  feet  head  of  water.  The  power  is  est  mated  by  engi- 
neers as  sufficient  to  drive  machinery  to  tha  extent  of  twelve  hundred  horse 
power  the  greater  part  of  the  season.  At  present  it  is  only  improved  by  a  saw 
and  grist  mill,  of  large  capacity,  but  power  will  be  furnished  to  those  desiring 
it  for  other  purposes.  About  eight  hundred  feet  above  the  dam  stands  one  of 
King's  wrought  iron  br  dges,  200  feet  span,  crossing  at  Main  street.  Its  two 
approaches,  of  forty  feet  each,  as  well  as  the  bridge  proper,  stand  upon  stone 
abutments  and  piers.  An  excellent  view  of  the  water  power  and  bridge 
beyond,  from  a  photograph,  is  presented  elsewhere. 


THE   M.  K.  &  T.  R.  R.  AND   ITS   TOWNS          231 

The  depot  of  the  M.,  K.  &  T.  R.  R.  is  located  conveniently  to  the  business 
part  of  town.  Neosho  Falls  is  the  division  headquarters  for  the  road,  with 
round  houses,  etc.,  and  the  office  of  the  Land  Commissioner,  Professor  I.  T. 
Goodnow,  is  located  here.  The  population  of  the  town  is  800  or  1,000.  It 
doubled  in  six  months  alter  the  railroad  offices  removed  here.  The  buildings 
are  of  such  a  character  a*  is  to  be  expected  in  an  enterprising  Kansas  town. 
Concerning  additional  railroads,  the  city  ha3  ita  great  expectations.  It  is 
looking  for  a  railroad  from  the  northeast,  and  another  from  the  east;  but  the 
road  which  is  expected  first  is  one  extending  directly  to  Fort  Scott,  saving 
fifty  miles,  or  half  the  distance  now  traveled.  Neooho  Falls  is  the  county  seat 
of  Woolson  county.  In  the  southwest  corner  of  this  county  is  a  valuable 
water  power,  on  the  Terdigris,  which  should  be  improved  by  a  mill,  for  the 
benefit  of  the  rich  and  rapidly  improving  surrounding  country.  It  is  situate! 
at  Toronto.  Coal  is  developed,  and  used  for  domestic  purposes  and  black- 
smithing. 

Continuing  our  route  southeast  15  miles,  we  reach  HUMBOLDT.  The  Land 
Office  for  Humboldt  Land  District  is  located  here,  adding  greatly  to  the  busi- 
ness of  the  place.  We  h  >ve  reached  that  portion  of  the  Neosho  which  runi 
nearly  south,  and  the  depot  for  Humboldt,  on  the  M.  K.  &  T.  R.  R.,  is  on  the 
west  side  of  the  river,  while  most  of  the  town  is  on  the  east  side.  The  Leaven- 
worth,  Lawrence  &  Galveston  Railroad  also  enters  the  town  on  the  east  side. 
The  latter  road  keeps  upon  that  side  of  the  river  for  some  distance,  and  the 
two  roads  cross  each  other  ten  miles  below  Humboldt.  The  attractive  town 
site  is  near  the  junction  of  two  creeks,  with  the  Neosho  river,  giving  to  the 
suppert  of  the  town  extended  and  fertile  valleys.  Coal  is  found  in  abundance 
ia  this  couaty.  This  town  was  laid  out  in  1861,  but  being  twice  p:llaged  and 
burned  by  rebels  during  the  war,  male  little  progress  for  several  years.  But 
of  late  its  growth  has  been  vigorous  and  healthy.  Its  inhabitaats  number 
about  2000.  There  are  a  number  of  good  buildings  here,  churches,  schools, 
etc.  One  of  King's  Wrought  Iron  Bridges  connects  east  and  west  Bridge 
street,  a  beautiful  avenue  a  mile  in  length.  In  addition  to  the  two.  roads  men- 
tioned, another  east  and  west  road  connecting  eastward  at  Fort  Scott,  it  is 
confidently  believed  will  be  constructed  very  soon.  A  view  is  given  of  the 
bridge  and  two  business  blocks  in  Humboldt.  Following  our  M.  K.  &  T.  R.  R. 
down  the  east  bank  of  the  Neosho,  we  reach 

TIOGA  and  NBW  CHICAGO,  two  towns  recently  located  side  by  side,  at  the 
crossing  of  this  road  and  the  L.  L.  &  Q.  R.  R.  These  towns,  situated  on  the 
lowland  and  bluffs  of  the  Neosho,  are  growing  so  rapidly  that  they  must  soon 
find  it  for  their  interest  to  adopt  a  common  purpose  and  a  common  name.  Our 
friends  in  the  remote  east  have  little  idea  of  the  ameunt  of  business  transacted 
in  one  of  our  town*.  In  good  weather,  the  principal  street  of  all  our  towns 
is  crowded  with  teams,  and  the  sidewalks  thronged  with  a  busy,  and  oftimes  a 
motley  throng.  A  friend  informed  me,  for  instance,  that  he  recently  counted 
two  hundred  farm  wagons  in  one  day  in  the  streets  of  New  Chicago  and  Tioga, 
which  were  drawn  thither  by  ordinary  business  demands. 


232  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

Near  here  lives  W.  S.  Irwin,  who.  represented  in  the  State  Legislature  last 
•winter  a  more  numerous  constituency  tban  any  other  member  rf  the  House  of 
Representatives.  He  has  been  five  years  in  Kansas  in  the  nursery  business. 
He  has  fruited  the  Concord,  lona,  Israella  No.  1,  Delaware,  Ivei  Seedling, 
Rogers'  Hybrids  No's.  4,  9  and  15,  and  the  Rebecca,  all  of  which  he  commends 
for  his  region.  He  discards  the  Catawba  and  Isabella  on  account  of  mildew. 
He  mentions  particulai  ly,  what  all  have  observed  who  have  <  aten  grapes  in 
Kansas,  that  the  Ccncord  and  other  common  varieties  are  far  superior  in 
flavor  to  the  same  varieties  grown  in  Eastern  States.  The  first  house  was  built 
in  New  Chicago  June  27, 1870.  Now,  in  less  than  one  year,  it  numbers  many 
hundred.  The  combined  p  pulation  of  these  two  places  probably  reaches 
about  2000. 

Southeast  of  these  towns  is  Erie,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Neosho  river,  a  town 
which  has  been  very  rapidly  built.  It  is  on  h  gh  bottom  land,  and  is  said  to 
contain  more  than  a  thousand  inhabit  ants. 

About  eight  miles  southeast  of  Erie  is  OSAGE  MISSION,  a  thriving  town  on  the 
line  of  the  road  from  Fort  Scott  to  Parsons,  called  the  Sedalia  Branch  of  the 
M.  K.  &  T.  R.  R.  I  have  not  vis;ted  this  place,  and  have  not  received  touch 
reliable  information  about  it,  but  it  is  said  to  contain  more  than  1500  inhabi- 
tants, with  all  the  elements  of  progress  common  to  Kansas  towns  of  this  size. 
Beyond  N(  w  Chicago  the  road  leaves  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  Neosho 
(although  still  in  the  broad  valley  when  miles  away,)  and  makes  a  cut-off  by 
crossing  into  the  headwaters  of  the  Labefte.  After  passing  for  a  few  miles 
Over  a  rolling  prairie  of  easy  grade,  as  is  shown  by  the  elevations  on  our  map, 
it  again  approaches  near  to  the  Neosho.  The  character  of  this  entire  valley 
has  hardly  been  alluded  to,  but  it  is  unsurpassed  for  the  extent  of  its  well 
tilled  bottoms,  for  the  abundance  of  timber  and  water  power,  and  for  the 
rapidity  with  which  it  has  been  filled  with  an  active  thriving  population. 

Passing  the  station  of  Ladore,  we  reach  PARSONS,  beautifully  situated  on  a 
prairie  roll,  between  the  Labette  and  one  of  its  tributaries.  There  the  eastern 
branch  of  the  M.  K.  &  T.  R.  R.  comes  in  from  Sedalia,  Mo.,  via  Fort  fcott.  By 
this  route  through  trains  now  rwn'to  St.  Louis.  At  Pareons  are  to  be  erected 
offices,  machine  shops,  round  houses,  etc.,  such  as  will  be  commensurate  with 
the  importance  of  a  railroad,  which,  with  its  various  branches,  will  in  time 
embrace  little  less  than  1000  miles  of  track. 

Labette  City  is  a  village  of  about  4CO  people  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Labette 
river,  in  a  well  settled  country.  Seven  miles  more  brings  us  to 

OSWEGO,  the  county  seat  of  Labette  county.  A  recent  travtller  who  has  been 
often  over  the  route,  describes  Oswego  as  "the  same  substantial  good  town  f 
improving  steadily,  surely."  It  has  a  population  of  about  1500.  It  is  located 
a  short  distance  from  the  Neosho  on  a  bluff  which  comes  abruptly  to  the  river 
on  its  west  side.  Never  failing  springs  abound  and  an  excellent  water  power 
is  improved  with  flouring  and  saw  mill.  The  village  of  Montana,  a  ftw  miles 
distant,  has  mills,  etc.,  and  about  250  inhabitants.  All  this  region  is  plentifully 
supplied  with  coa).  Ten  miles  from  Oswego  is 


THE    L.  L.  &  G.  R.  R.  AND   ITS   TOWNS.         233 

CHETOPA..  This  thriving  young  city  is  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Neosho  river  and  near  the  scuth'line  of  tne  state.  Chetopa  is  southwest  of, 
and  distant  seventeen  miles  from  Columbus,  on  the  Missouri  River,  Fort  Scott  <fc 
Gulf  Railroad,  from  which  point  the  latter  road  will  probably  soon  be  extended 
to  Chetopa.  It  is  also  on  the  line  of  the  projected  South  Pacific  R.  R.,  which  I 
am  informed  is  under  contract  to  Baxter  Springs,  eighteen  miles  distant  to  the 
east.  Being  so  situated  as  to  command  an  extensive  southern  trade  it  is  rapidly 
growing.  Its  four  neat  and  tasteful  church  edifices  entirely  completed,  bespeak 
the  character  of  the  inhabitants,  not  less  than  the  school  houses,  stores,  hotels, 
etc.  Near  here  are  the  valuable  coal  mines,  from  which  in  January,  1870,  when 
but  recently  opened,  ten  car  loads  per  day  Were  shipped  north.  Adjacent  are 
the  heavily  timbered  bottoms  of  the  Neosho,  affording  the  finest  quality  of 
oak  and  walnut,  while  forty  miles  south  are  the  extensive  pineries  of  Grand 
River.  Planing  mills  at  Chetopa  use  lumbar  shipped  from  the  latter  region,  while 
flouring  mills,  foundry,  etc.,  make  up  the  complement  of  improvements.  The 
trade  in  Texas  cattle  is  very  considerable  at  Chetopa  as  well  as  at  all  the  towns 
along  the  southern  line  of  the  state.  From  Chetopa  we  look  south  up  in  the 
Indian  Territory,  whose  solitudes  are  already  awakened  by  the  battic  cry  of 
modern  civTzation— the  steam  whistle.  By  this  sign  do  we  conquer  the 
wilderness. 

The  Missouri,  Kansas  &  Texas  Railroad  is  already  constructed  to  Fort 
Gibson  which  is  on  the  Arkansas  River,  eightj'-seven  miles  south  of  the 
Kansas  State  line,  and  it  is  proposed  to  build  nearly  as  much  farther  during 
the  year  1871,  leaving  but  fifty  or  sixty  milcs  to  reach  the  northern  boundary 
of  Texas .  The  Indian  Terr i  tory  is  210  miles  across— it  being  of  the  same  width 
as  the  state  of  Kansas.  It  may  not  be  generally  known  that  it  is  no  farther 
from  Topeka,  the  Capital  of  Kansas,  to  Galveston,  on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  than 
it  is  to  Columbus,  the  Capital  of  Ohio.  This  road  will  reach  Galveston  in  con- 
junction with  the  Texas  Central,  and  another  line  will  be  pushed  southwest  to 
Camargo,  in  Mexico.  The  Kansas  line  will  aiso  be  extended  northwest  to  Fort 
Kearney  on  the  Union  Pacific  in  Nebraska.  The  General  Manager  of  this  road 
is  Robert  S.  Stevens,  a  Kansas  man,  whose  talent  for  pushing  a  railroad  is 
being  backed  by  a  company  which  appreciates  the  importance  of  improving 
opportunities.  This  road  is  to  be  of  great  importance  to  Kansas,  not  only  in 
giving  access  by  means  of  branch  lines  to  the  pineries  of  that  region,  but  by 
opening  an  avenue  of  trafic,  whereby  the  tropical  productions  and  fish  and 
oysters  of  lower  Texas,  and  the  cotton  as  well,  may  be  brought  here  in  exchange 
for  apples,  pears,  butter  and  che?se,  hay,  bacon,  fine  blooded  stock,  etc. 

THE   L.  L.  &  G.  R.  R.  AND   ITS   TOWNS. 

The  Leavenworth,  Lawrence  &  Galveston  Railroad,  as  it^name  indicates, 
commences  at  Leavenworth,  aad  it  received  its  land  grants  upon  that  condi- 
tion. But  the  railroad  bridge  is  not  completed  across  the  Kansas  river  at 

no 


234  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

Xawrence,  and  trains  are  therefore  made  up  at  the  latter  place.  Passing  south 
Across  the  broad  bottoms  of  the  Wakarusa  and  up  Coal  Creek,  we  pass  near  to- 
Blue  Mound,  an  isolated  hill  about  one  hundred  feet  above  the  Wakarusa,  and 
apon  whose  summit,  in  the  early  Kansas  troubles,  stood  a  tall  flag-staff. 
Whenever  armed  forces  or  suspicious  parties  were  seen  by  the  scouts  approach- 
ing  from  Missouri,  the  Free  State  men  were  warned  by  running  up  a  flag  on. 
this  staff,  which  could  be  eeen  in  Lawrence  and  all  the  surrounding  country. 

The  first  station  is  Vineland,  where  there  is  no  village  as  yet,  but  where  is 
the  fruit  farm,  nursery  and  vineyard  of  Mr.  W.  E.  Barnes,  who  furnished  our 
essay  on  grape  culture.  From  Vineland  the  road  climbs  by  a  sharp  grade  to 
Baldwn  City,  which  is  situated  on  the  high  prairie,  and  on  the  old  Santa  Fe 
wagon  road,  which  wound  its  serpentine  course  on  the  divide  between  the 
Wftters  of  the  Kansas  River  on  the  north  and  the  Marias  des  Cygnes  on  the 
south.  Baldwin  City  is  a  village  of  a  few  hundred  inhabitants,  and  is  the  seat 
Of  Baker  University.  The  M,  E.  Church  has  here  erected  a  fine  edifice,  with 
boarding  housep,  and  smaller  building  for  preparatory  department,  and  the 
institution  gives  promise  of  great  usefulness.  At  this  place  and  at  Prairie 
City,  the  next  station  near  at  hand,  are  good  flouriug  mills.  Passing  the  flag 
station  of  Norwood,  we  reach  the  city  of 

OTTAWA.  This  place  is  situated  on  both  sides  of  the  Marias  des  Cygnes- 
(River  of  Swans)  but  is  chiefly  built  on  the  gently  sloping  and  undulating  sur- 
fece  of  the  portion  south  of  the  stream.  Across  the  stream  is  thrown  the 
beautiful  wire  suspension  bridge  shown  on  another  page.  Having  spent  two 
years  before  any  other  white  man  lived  in  this  immediate  vicinity,  in  prepar- 
ing to  lay  out  and  build  this  town,  it  would  be  an  easy  matter  to  fill  a  consid- 
erable book  with  its  history;  but  having  promised  the  publie  an  impartial 
sketch  of  Kansas,  I  will  only  say  that  Ottawa  has  steadily  grown  from  the 
erection  of  the  first  house,  in  April,  1864,  to  this  time,  when  it  numbers  about 
3,500  inhabitants.  Its  two  principal  streets  are  paved,  and  the  town  contains 
many  fine  buildings.  Some  of  its  buildings,  including  Ottawa  University,  are 
ahown  elsewhere.  It  is  a  live  town,  surrounded  by  a  good  country,  and  is 
Still  improving.  Its  churches,  schools,  etc.,  are  a  credit  to  any  town.  The 
site  of  Ottava  is  a  beautiful  one ;  its  situation,  relative  to  a  great  region  of 
country,  is  central  and  commanding,  and  its  people  are  intelligent,  enterpris- 
ing and  public  spirited. 

A  few  miles  north  of  Ottawa,  near  the  L. ,  L.  &  G.  r<  ad,  are  the  Franklin 
county  coal  mine?,  employing  about  fifty  men,  and  delivering  a  large  amount 
of  coal  daily. 

Arrangements  have  been  made  for  the  location  at  Ottawa  of  the  machine 
Shops  of  the  Leavenwortb,  Lawretce  &  Galveston  Railroad,  which  will  give 
employment  to  a  large  number  of  men,  as  this  road  is  to  be  contii  ued  south 
through  the  Indian  Territory,  and  so  long  a  line  with  its  many  branches  will 
require  extensive  works. 

The  L.  L.  &  G.  R.  R.  has  another  line  coming  into  this  ilace  from  Kansas 
City,  and  the  Missouri,  Kansas  &  Texas  Railroad  is  also  building  a  branch 


THE   L.  L.  &  Or.  R.  R.  AND   ITS   TOWNS.          235 

leaving  the  Missouri  Pacific  at  Holden  and  coming  through  Paola  to  this 
place,  whence  it  will  proceed  westward  through  Pomona. 

Pomona. — This  new  but  promising  village  is  ten  miles  west  of  Ottawa,  in  the 
valley  of  the  Marais  de  Cygnes.  It  is  an  original  conception,  being  located 
upon  the  bord<  r  of  a  tract  of  12,000  acres  of  excellent  land  owned  by  Messrs.  J. 
H.  Whetstone  and  S.  T.  Kelsey,  which  tract  ft  entirely  surrounded  by  a  well 
constructed  wire  fence.  Within  the  fence  more  than  100  miles  of  hef'ge  and 
forest  tree  rows  have  been  plowed  and  planted,  and  a  large  amount  of  nursery 
stock  set  out  by  Mr.  Kelsey,  (whose  essay  is  elsewhere  given.)  Within  five 
years  this  entire  tract  will  be  divided  by  hedge  rows  and  forest  trees  into 
email  tracts,  and  settled  by  a  prosperous  and  independent  community.  In 
such  hands,  and  with  such  prospects,  I  need  hardly  say  that  the  village  is 
prospering.  It  is  not  yet  a  year  old,  but  it  has  about  50  houses  atd  a  fine- 
mill  and  school  house,  of  which  illustrations  are  given  elsewhere.  Coal  under- 
lies the  entire  site  and  surrounding  country,  and  is  delivered  at  the  town  for 
about  15  cents  per  bushel. 

I  have  spoken  particularly  of  this  enterprise,  because  it  illustrates  what 
may  be  done  in  Kansas  and  how  by  energy  and  rapacity  a  good  deal  may  le 
made  out  of  a  little.  This  entire  tract,  then  unoccupied  land,  was  purchased 
two  years  ago  for  $4.50  per  acre.  There  are  still  opportunities  for  other  such 
enterpris  es  in  Kansas. 

In  the  southeastern  part  -f  this  county,  is  Lane  post-office  and  settlement 
near  which  stands  the  John  Brown  cabin  elsewhere  shown.  Here  is  also  a 
steam  flour  mill. 

To  the  southwest  of  Ottawa,  about  sixteen  miles  is  the  French  settlement 
and  Silk  Factory  of  M.  de  Boissiere,  who  was  expelled  from  France  on  political 
grounds  by  the  late  Emperor.  He  is  a  socialist  of  great  wealth,  who  has 
purchased  three  thousand  acres  of  fine  land  and  has  erected  a  good  building, 
and  is  intending  to  erect  others,  where  will  be  attempted  a  practical  solution 
of  some  of  the  knetty  problems  of  social  science,  and  industry.  Whatever 
may  come  of  the  theories,  the  seed  of  the  Mulberry  tree  sown  in  large  quanti- 
ties, have  made  excellent  returns,  the  trees  growing  fifteen  to  thirty  inches  the 
first  year.  They  are  grown  to  furnish  food,  by  their  leaves,  for  silk  worms. 

Near  by  is  a  fine  steam  flour  mill  located  at  Williamsburg.  Both  these  set- 
tlements are  underlaid,  at  a  depth  of  ten  to  thirty  feet,  with  excellent  coal. 

But  we  loiter  too  long  in  this  vicinity,  and  must  hasten  southward,  by  the 
stations  of  Princeton  and  Richmond  to 

GARNETT,  the  county  seat  of  Anderson  county.  This  town  of  about  1000 
inhabitants  is  situated  on  rolling  prairie,  and  is  nearly  surrounded  by  timber. 
The  first  house  was  built  in  this  town  by  Capt.  John  J.  Lindsey.  Being  the 
only  town  in  the  county,  it  has  lately  grown  rapidly,  having  churches,  hotel?, 
mill?,  etc;  its  prospects  are  good,  especially  when  a  railroad  is  coi struct  d 
through  this  place  from  Paola,  as  is  contemplated. 


236  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

Leaving  Garnett,  we  pass  the  stations  of  Welda,  and  Divide,  and  crossing  the 
high  divide  known  as  Ozark  Ridge,  pass  Carlyle  station,  and  striking  Into 
the  Neosho  Ya'ley,  we  enter  the  town  of 

IOLA,  which  is  the  county  seat  of  Allen  county.  The  town  is  located  on  high 
bottom,  gently  rolling  to  the  river,  which  runs  on  the  west  of  the  town.  The 
most  important  event  wh:ch  has  lately  happened  to  this  place  is  the  location  at 
this  p:int  of  the  large  manufacturing  establishment  of  the  King  Wruught 
Iron  Bridge  Company.  A  view  of  these  buildings,  and  more  particular  descrip- 
tion of  them  is  given  elsewhere.  lola  has  about  1000  inhabitants,  and  is  grow- 
ing  rapidly.  The  river  is  bridged  at  this  place  by  one  of  King's  Iron  Bridges. 
About  two  miles  above  the  town  is  said  to  be  an  excellent  water  power  on  the 
Neosho  River. 

Northwest  from  lola  is  Geneva,  a  village  between  Elm  and  Indian  creeks.  It 
is  6  miles  from  Ca-lylfl,  and  3%  from  Neosho  Falls,  between  which  places  runs 
a  daily  stage.  At  Geneva  is  located  a  Presbyterian  Academy. 

The  next  station  is  Humboldt,  the  road  passing  on  the  east  side  of  the  town. 
As  we  described  the  place  in  treating  of  the  M.  K.  &  T.  R.  R.,  we  hasten  on 
across  the  Neosho,  and  through  the  towns  of  New  Chicago  and  Tioga,  already 
described,  and  out  on  to  the  prairie  again  to  the  new  town  of 

THATER,  which  is  the  present  terminus  of  the  road.    This  town  has  grown  as 
only  Kansas  towns  can  grow,  or  at  least,  as  only  towns  in  a  new  and  fertile 
country,  with  low  priced  Ian  X  can  grow.    I  don't  dare   say  how  many  people 
there  are  in  this  town,  for  I  have  not  visited  it.    The  first  house  was  erected 
last  fall,  and  there  are  now  hundreds  of  people  there,  while,  as  in  all  our  new 
.towns,    "  the  cry   is  still  they  come-"        The  Railroad  is  in  process  of  con- 
struction to  the  south  line  of  the  state,  where  a  town  will  te  located.    The 
, direction  of  this   extension   is    unknown   to  me,  excepting  that  it  is  to  be 
.southwesterly.    Tie  south  line  of  the  State  is  to  be  reached  in  July,  1871, 
a  distance  of  45  miles  from  Thayer. 

This  road  has  a  few  hundred  thousand  acres  of  valuable  land  for  sale.  I 
have  cot  the  name  of  the  newly  appointed  land  commissioner,  but  letters  will 
reach  him  if  gent  in  the  care  of  M.  R.  Baldwin,  general  superintendent,  Law- 
rence. Retracing  our  course  to  Ottawa,  we  leave  the  north  and  south  line  and 
go  northeast  to  Olathe,  passing  the  stations  of  Ferguson,  Wellsville,  Martin,  and 
,  Gardner,  all  new  plares,  but  in  a  well  settled  region.  This  line  of  road  is 
,  called  the  Kansas' City  and  Santa  Fe  Railroad,  but  it  is  controlled  and  run  by 
,the  L.  L.  &  G.  R.  R.  Company,  through  trains  passing  over  the  Missouri  River » 
iFort  Scott  and  Gulf  Road,  from  Olathe  to  Kansas  City. 

THE    M.    R.    FT.    S.    &    G.    R.    R.    AND   ITS  TOWNS. 

The  Missouri  River,  Fort  Scott  and  Gulf  Railroad  commences  at  Kansas  City, 
Missouri,  where  it  makes  direct  connection  with  eastern  trains.  A  bridge 
crosses  the  Missouri  river  at  this  point.  From  the  Missouri  river  bottom,  on 
which  the  depot  is  situated,  the  road  follows  the  windings  of  Turkey  creek 
until  it  reaches  the  summit  on  open  prairie. 


238  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

Shawnee  Station,  is  near  a  small  town  ef  the  same  nance  which  contains  a 
few  hundred  inhabitants.  All  the  land  in  this  vicinity  is  enclosed  and  divided 
Into  farms.  Near  here  is  the  old  Shawnee  Mission,  and  this  gives  me  opportu- 
nity to  say  what  I  intended  to  say  in  its  proper  place,  that  Col.  Johnson,  who 
lives  here,  thinks  the  quickest  and  most  satisfactory  way  to  raise  fu<  1  on  the 
open  prairie,  is  to  plant  peach  stones  a  few  feet  apart  each  way.  He  planted  a 
bushel  on  three  or  four  acres,  and  the  grove  yielded  an  incredible  amount  of 
fuel.  Peach  wood  is  hard  and  makes  an  excellent  fire.  It  grows  rapidly,  bears 
peaches  in  three  or  four  years  from  the  pit  or  stcne,  and  one  good  crop  will 
pay  for  the  trouble.  The  object  of  growing  a  thicket  of  peaches  is  not  fruit 
however,  but  fuel,  but  if  peaches  will  insist  on  growing  who  will  object  to  it? 
Hoping  the  reader  will  excuse  this  digression,  we  continue  our  route  over  a 
very  fine  country  with  fine  farms  on  every  hand,  past  the  station  of  Lenexa  to 

OLATHE,  the  county  seat  of  Johnson  county.  This  thriving  town  of  almost 
2600  inhabitants  is  situated  on  rolling  prairie,  between  the  head  waters  of  Cedar 
and  Indian  creeks.  The  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum  is  located  here,  with  a  go  d 
sized  three  story  stone  building.  An  east  and  west  railroad  is  now  being  con- 
structed through  Olathe,  which  we  will  describe  in  the  next  division. 

From  Olathe  our  railroad  commences  a  down  grade,  passing  Ocheltree  and 
Spring  Hill  stations  in  Johnson  county.  The  latter  station  is  the  depot  for 
a  thrify  little  village  of  the  game  name,  situated  a  mile  or  two  west  of  the 
road.  Passing  Hillsdale,  a  few  miles  over  the  county  line,  we  follow  down  a 
considerable  stream  called  Bull  Creek,  and  on  its  east  banks  we  find 

PAOLA,  the  county  seat  of  Miami  county.  This  town  was  laid  out  in  the 
early  settlement  of  Kansas,  its  pioneers  being  attracted  by  large  springs  of 
pure  water,  and  also  by  the  excellence  of  the  surrounding  country.  It  con- 
tains good  buildings,  mills,  hotels,  etc. 

The  branch  railroad  from  Holden,  Missouri,  tapping  at  that  place  the  Mis 
souri  Pacific,  is  soon  to  be  completed  to  Paola.  Ou  this  road,  near  the  state  line 
is  New  St.  Louis,  a  new  place  of  promise,  and  yet  nearer  to  Paola  is  Somersett 
•where  a  mill,  stores,  etc.,  are  now  building.  The  northeast  corner  of  this 
county  has  settled  very  rapidly  during  the  last  three  years. 

Six  or  e:gbt  miles  southwest  from  Paola  is  Osawatomie?,  situated  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Pottawatomie  and  Marias  des  Cygnes  Rivers,  and  between  the 
two  streams,  which  are  bridged  at  this  point.  A  good  water  power  on  the  first 
named  stream  is  being  improved  bj  the  erection  of  a  dam  and  mill.  The  place 
contains,  perhaps,  509  people.  The  State  Asylum  for  tfce  Insane  is  located 
here,  and  lar^e  buildings  are  now  being  erected  in  addition  to  the  old  ones. 
The  little  village  is  chiefly  noted  for  the  fight  which  took  place  in  1856, 
between  old  Captain  John  Brown,  with  a  handful  of  Free  State  men,  and  a 
considerable  force  of  Pro-Slavery  Border  Ruffians.  The  town  was  eventually 
sacked,  after  a  gallant  resistance,  and  Brown  was  from  that  event  called  Osa 
icatomie  Brown.  The  proposed  railroad  from  Paola  to  Garnctt  and  Neosho 
Fa'ls,  is  to  run  through  Osawatomie. 


240 

In  the  southeast  part  of  Miami  county  is  the  village  and  post  office  of  New 
Lancaster.  Near  by  is  one  of  the  oil  springs  which  abound  in  the  border 
counties  of  Kansas,  and  from  which  oozes  a  thick  black  substance  which  in 
Bummer  dries  down  to  the  consistency  and  appearance  of  thick  tar. 

Following  on  railroad  from  Paola,  we  pass  the  town  of  Fontana,  which  is 
located  in  a  good  country,  and  reach 

LA  CYGNES.  This  new  town  was  lately  made  the  county  seat  of  Linn 
county.  The  site  was  surveyed  and  staked  for  a  town  in  the  fall  of  1869,  and 
now,  in  less  than  two  years,  it  claims  1200  inhabitants.  There  is  good  water 
power  here,  as  well  as  iu  various  places  lower  down  on  the  Marias  des  Cygnes. 
Of  course  the  town  is  thrifty  and  ambitious,  and  it  is  supported  by  an  excel- 
lent country  around  it. 

Passing  Barnard  station,  we  reach  Pleasanton,  a  town  of  about  800  inhabi- 
tants, which  has  also  grown  very  rapidly.  It  has  an  improved  water  power, 
two  flouring  mills,  and  does  a  good  business  with  the  surrounding  country.  A 
vein  of  coal  two  to  three  ft«t  thick  is  opened  here. 

Seven  mi'es  west  of  Plea=anton,  and  connected  with  it  by  a  daily  stage,  is 
Mound  City,  situated  on  the  south  bank  of  Little  Sugar  creek.  It  is  partially 
enclosed  by  the  arc  of  one  of  the  highest  mounds  in  Kansas,  called 
Sugar  Mound,  from  the  Sugar  Maple  tre^s  which  cover  its  side  and  a  portion 
of  its  summit.  From  this  Mound  flow  the  constant  waters  of  several  excel- 
lent springs.  A  surface  vein  of  coal  fifteen  to  thirty  inches  thick  is  opened 
here.  A  railroad  is  in  contemplation  to  pass  through  Pleasanton  and  Mound 
City.  Six  miles  from  Mound  City  is  a  good  flour  mill,  run  by  water  on  Big 
Sugar  Creek. 

Continuing  a  southward  course  from  Pleasanton,  we  cross  Little  Osage  River 
and  reach  the  station  of  Osaga.  Near  by  is  a  good  water  power,  well  im- 
proved, and  also  at  Fort  Lincoln,  a  few  miles  westward,  up  the  stream. 

FORT  SCOTT  is  the  next  station  and  the  county  seat  of  Bourbon  count j.  It 
contains  about  5,000  inhabitants.  It  is  the  chief  town  in  this  portion  of  the 
State,  and  has  no  rival  within  less  than  about  thirty  miles  in  either  direction^ 
Besides  the  road  upon  which  we  entered  the  eastern  part  of  the  town,  the 
Sedalia  branch  of  the  Missouri,  Kansas  &  Texas  Railroad  runs  throi'gh  the 
southern  portion  of  the  city.  Besides  this  road  is  the  La  Clede  and  Fort  Scott, 
another  road  soon  to  be  completed  from  the  east,  while  still  another  is  pro- 
jected, and  likely  to  bo  built,  southeast,  into  the  timber  regions  of  Arkansas. 
A  road  will  also  soon  be  constructed  from  here  directly  west  toHumboldt,  with 
a  line  via  I^la  to  Neosho  Falls.  Fort  Scott  is  located  on  rolling  prairie, 
chiefly  on  the  sonth  side  of  Marmaton  River,  which  flows  eastward  into  Mis- 
souri. A  small  stream,  fed  by  springs,  winds  through  the  northern  part  of  the 
city.  The  place  does  an  e*ten-ive  business,  and  las  a  woolen  factory,  a 
foundry,  mills,  etc.,  and  is  about  to  be  supplied  with  gas.  It  would  seem  only 
necessary  to  tap  the  gas  reservoir  beneath  the  city  for  the  latter  purpose,  as 
there  issues  from  a  drill  hole,  made  in  testing  for  oil,  a  constant  stream  of  gas, 


.      THE  ST.  L.  L.  &  D.  R.  R.  AND  ITS   TOWNS.       241 

which  burns  with  a  ready  blaze.    One  of  the  most  valuable  coal  mines  in  the 
State  is  opened  near  the  city,  and  its  shipment  is  an  important  item. 

Passing  successively  the  stations  of  Godfrey,  Pawnee  and  Drywood,  we  reach 
GIRARD,  the  county  seat  of  CRAWFORD  COUNTY.  This  new  town  has  about  800 
inhabitants,  and  confidently  looks  for  the  construction  of  an  east  and  west 
railroad.  This  entire  country  is  underlaid  with  promising  coal  veins. 

Cherokee  station  is  a  growing  place.  A  large  amount  of  coal  is  mined  here 
from  a  vein  said  to  be  four  feet  thick.  It  sells  at  the  banks,  loaded  on  cars,  at 
nine  cents  per  bushel.  A  kind  called  red  coal  is  in  thinner  veins,  and  sells 
higher,  for  blacksmithing  purposes.  Monmouth  is  a  village  of  about  300  inhab- 
itants, six  miles  west  of  Cherokee  station,  pleasantly  located  near  timber. 

Coalfield  is  another  coal  mining  town,  and  station  on  the  road. 

COLUMBUS  is  the  county  seat  of  Cherokee  county.  The  first  house  was  built 
a  little  more  than  a  year  ago,  and  the  pla?e  now  numlers  about  1000 
inhabitants.  It  is  situated  on  gently  rolling  prairie,  and  has  a  prospective 
Railroad  from  the  East. 

The  next  station,  and  the  terminus  of  the  road  is  Baxter  Springs,  a  thriving 
business  place  claiming  about  2000  inhabitants.  Being  upon  the  border  of  the 
Indian  Territory,  it  is  the  last  town  in  this  direction,  and  is  a  place  of  exten- 
sive business.  It  is  located  on  the  west  bank  of  Spring  River,  which  fur- 
nishes excellent  water  power,  here  and  elsewhere.  At  Lowell,  a  village  three 
miles  from  Baxter  Springs,  and  connected  with  it  by  daily  stage,  is  a  very  fine 
water  power  with  mills.  Spring  River  has  a  succession  of  water  powers 
throughout  its  entire  course.  A  promising  grindstone  quarry  has  lately  been 
opened  in  the  southeastern  portion  of  this  county.  The  Atlantic  and  Pacific 
Railroad  from  St.  Louis  is  about  to  extend  its  line  westward  through  Baxter 
Springs. 

A  few  miles  south  from  here  are  located  my  old  friends,  the  Ottawa  tribe  of 
Indians,  formerly  the  owners  of  a  good  share  of  Franklin  county,  and  from 
whom  the  town  of  Ottawa  was  named.  It  is  reported  that  upon  their  new 
reservation  an  excellent  vein  of  pure  white  marble  has  been  discovered,  and 
a  company  is  about  to  open  the  quarry  and  test  its  value. 

This  Railroad  will  undoubtedly  soon  be  pushed  on  southward,  but  I  think 
its  precise  course  has  not  been  determined  upon.  Major  B.  S.  Henning,  of 
Kansas  City,  Mo.,  is  the  efficient  General  Superintendent  of  this  road.  The 
lands  are  sold  by  John  A.  Clarke,  Land  Commissioner,  of  Fort  Scott. 

THE  ST.  L.  L.  &  D.  R.  R.  AND   ITS   TOWNS. 

The  St.  Louis,  Lawrence  and  Denver  Railroad  is  commonly  knuwn  as  the 
Lawrence  and  Pleasant  Hill  Railroad.  It  commences  at  the  foimer  place  and 
runs  by  Eudora,  a  town  of  several  hundred  inhabitants  at  the  junction  of 
the  Wakarusa  and  Kansas  rivers.  Thence  the  road  continues  down  the  bottom 
lands  «f  the  latter  stream  to  De  Soto,  whence  it  strikes  into  Cedar  Creek  and 
follows  it  up  to  Olathe.  Thence  it  passes  eastward  to  Pleasant  Hill,  on  the  Mis- 
souri Pacific  Railroad,  20  miles  beyond  the  eastern  boundary  of  Kansas.  The 


242  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

road  is  not  yet  running,  but  it  is  under  contract  to  be  completed  during  the 
Bummer,  and  it  will  considerably  shorten  the  distance  between  Lawrence  abd 
Olathe,and  the  city  of  St.  Louis.  Gen.G.  W.Deitzler  of  Lawrence,  is  President- 

THE    A.  T.  &    S.  F.  R.  R.  AND    ITS    TOWNS. 

The  Atchison,  Topeka  and  Santa  Fe  Railroad  commences,  by  the  terms  of  its 
land  grant,  at  Atchison,  but  the  portion  between  this  city  and  Topeka  is  not 
yet  completed.  It  is  however  under  contract,  and  is  to  be  constructed  within 
a  year's  time. 

At  ATCHISON,  which  wo  have  already  described,  this  road  connects  with  the 
roads  running  in  every  direction  from  that  city.  Th«  Chicago  and  Southwest- 
ern is  al>o  to  build  a  road  directly  west  from  Plattsburg,  in  Missouri,  35  miles 
to  Atchison.  This  will  necessitate  the  construction  of  a  bridge  across  the 
Missouri  river  at  this  point.  The  A.  T.  &  S.  F.  R.  R.  will  use  the  track  of  the 
C.  B.  U.  P.  R.  R.  for  a  few  miles,  as  shown  on  our  map,  aud  will  strike  across 
the  divide  and  s  .uthwest  down  a  tributary  of  Grasshopper  river,  which  it  will 
cross  at,  or  in  the  vicinity  of,  Grashopper  Falls.  This  village  of  about  800 
inhabitants  is  pleasantly  situated,  chiefly  on  the  west  bank  of  the  stream.  It 
has  a  very  good  water  pewer,  while  but  a  mile  distant  is  another,  and  they 
furuish  power  to  run  two  flouring  mills,  and  a  woolen  factory.  The  town  con- 
tains five  or  six  church  buildings,  which  fact  t«lls  its  own  story  about  the  char- 
acter of  the  peuple.  Six  miles  above  the  village  is  another  wate.  power  now 
being  improved,  while  three  miles  down  the  stream  from  the  village  is  another 
mill,  and  at  Osawkee,  10  miles  below  Grashopper  Falls,  is  a  flouring  mill  run 
by  water.  All  these  water  powers  are  on  Grasshopper  River.  In  the  south 
part  of  this  county  -n  this  stream,  are  the  towns  of  Medina  and  Perryville,  on 
the  K.  P.  R.  R.  The  latter  has  a  population  of  about  500. 

About  14  miles  southeast  of  Grashopper  Falls  is  OSKALOOSA,  the  county  seat 
of  Jefferson  county.  It  is  built  on  high  rolling  prairie,  at  the  head  of  several 
streams,  which  flow  froai  numerous  springs  in  and  around  the  town.  The 
place  ii  nearly  surrounded  with  timber.  Firewood  sells  at  three  dollars  per 
cord.  The  population  is  about  900.  No  liquor  saloons  have  ever  been  permit- 
ted in  the  town.  A  large  court  house  and  public  school  house  built  of  brick, 
with  trimmings  of  Junction  City  stone,  and  an  elegant  Protestant  Episcopal 
Church,  also  built  of  biick,  adorn  this  highland  village. 

From  Gr^ssh  ,pper  Falls  to  Topeka  there  are  as  yet  no  towns,  although  vil- 
lages will  sooa  spring  into  existence,  after  the  railroad  is  completed. 

The  A.  T.  &  S.  F.  connects  on  the  north  side  of  the  Kansas  River,  at  North 
Topeka,  with  the  K.  P.  R.  Crossing  the  Kansas  river  on  the  railroad  bridge 
built  by  the  former  company,  we  arrive  at  the  depot,  machine  shops  and  gen- 
eral offices  of  the  road,  located  on  the  eastern  border  of  the  city  of  Topeka. 
This  city  waa  fully  described  in  the  article  relating  to  the  K.  P.  Railroad,  and 
we  continue  on  our  way  southward.  Wukarusa  station  is  located  in  the  fertile 
valley  of  the  river  of  that  naiae,  and  is  the  natural  centre  for  a  good  country. 
About  six  miles  to  the  westward  is  the  village  of  Auburn,  pleasantly  located 


THE   A.  T.  &  S.  F.  R.  R.  AND   ITS   TOWNS.       243 

in  the  Wakarusa  valley.  The  next  station  is  CarbondaU,  where  extensive  coal 
mines  are  opened,  and  a  large  amount  of  coal  delivered.  From  this  point  a 
railroad  is  projected  to  follow  down  a  creek  which  heads  near  by,  and  H^on 
reaching  the  Wakamsa,  its  valley  will  be  followed  to  Lawrence,  there  de'iver- 
ing  coal,  and  giving  the  A.  T.  &  S.  F.  R.  R.  connection  with  the  railroads  which 
run  eastward  from  that  cit.. . 

The  next  town  is  BDRLINGAME,  one  of  the  county  seats  of  Osage  county.  At 
an  election  recently  held,  a  majority  of  the  votes  were  declared  to  have  been 
cast  in  favor  of  LYNDON,  but  the  election  was  contested,  and  meantime  the 
county  offices  are  held  partly  at  one  place  and  partly  at  the  other.  The  popu- 
lation of  Burlingame  ia  about  800.  The  attractive  town  site  in  located  on  a 
email  stream,  and  a  large  and  elegant  public  school  house  stands  upon  a  con- 
spicuous eminence.  There  is  now  being  erected  a  woolen  factory,  in  which 
new  and  excellent  machinery  will  soon  be  placed.  It  will  be  run  by  steam,  ai 
the  eoal  mines  near  at  hand  supply  cheap  fuel.  The  elegant  stone  buildimg  ia 
130  feet  long,  with  Mansard  roof.  An  extensive  wag  >n  manufactory  is  in  ope- 
ration here. 

Passing  the  station  of  Peterton,  located  in  the  rich  valley  of  Dragoon's  creek, 
vre  reach  Osage  City.  Here  are  also  extensive  and  valuable  coal  and  other 
mineral  deposits,  which  are  described  under  the  heads ''Stone  Quarries,"  and 
"Paint."  This  town  has  net  long  been  in  existence,  but  it  appears  to  be 
flourishing. 

Following  eastward  from  this  village,  by  stag«,  down  the  valley  of  Salt  creek, 
a  distance  of  eight  miles,  we  reach  the  new  and  enterprising  town  of  LYNDOIC, 
already  referred  to.  This  town  was  laid  out  March  7,  1870,  by  a  company  of 
which  Hon.  L.  D.  Bailey,  late  Judge  of  the  Supreme  Court,  is  president.  Six 
months  afterwarJ,  the  Judg-  informed  me  in  as  delicate  a  manner  as  possible, 
evidently  a  little  fearful  1-st  he  might  hurt  my  fe  lings — that  his  town  had 
beaten  the  fi'.-st  six  months  growth  of  Ottawa.  Of  course  (in  my  view)  language 
would  fail  to  express  higher  encomium  upon  their  success.  The  town  now 
contains  about  700  inhabitants.  Coal  is  easily  obtained,  and  the  country  has 
filled  up  rapidly  with  actaa'.  settlers. 

East  from  Lyndon,  near  the  county  line,  and  near  the  confluence  of  Salt 
Creek  with  the  Marias  des  Cygnes,  is  the  town  of  Quenemo,  formerly  the 
agency  of  the  Sac  and  Fox  Indians.  The  celebrated  warrior,  Black  Hawk,  was 
a  chief  of  this  tribe,  and  a  son  and  namesake  of  Ke-o-kuk,  the  equally  cele- 
brated friend  of  the  white  man,  is  now  a  chief  of  the  tribe  in  the  Indian  Ter- 
ritory, where  they  recently  removed.  Mr.  Wm.  Whistler,  a  remote  descendant 
of  the  tribe,  who  lives  at  Quenemo,  and  last  winter  represented  Osage  county, 
in  the  State  Legislature,  informed  me  that  the  last  buffa'o  killed  east  of 
Council  Grove  met  their  death  in  June  1?48,  when  a  Sac  and  Fox  hunter  killed 
three,  near  the  present  towu  site  of  Quenemo. 

In  returning  to  thj  Atchi-on,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  Railroad,  we  will  diverge 
southward  from  the  route  by  which  we  came  to  Q'lenemo,  and  pa?s  up  the 
broad  valley  of  the  Marias  des  Cygnes,  a  distance  of  about  twenty  miles  to  the 


THE   A.  T.  &  S.  F.  R.  R.  AND   ITS   TOWNS.        245 

town  of  Aroonia.  This  place  was  founded  as  a  Welch  settlement  by  J. 
Mather  Jones  and  others,  but  includes  people  of  various  nationalities,  and 
has  become  a  village  of  considerable  size. 

Proceeding  a  few  miles  further  up  the  valley,  we  enter  the  new  but  promis- 
ing town  of  Heading,  lately  laid  off  as  a  town  and  railroad  station.  The  sur- 
rounding lands  are  largely  in  the  hands  of  eastern  capitalists,  who  have  the 
ability  to  build  a  good  town  at  this  point.  There  are  a  few  things  however, 
which  are  in  general  absolutely  necessary  to  success  in  town  building.  There 
must  bo  displayed,  among  other  things,  liberality,  energy  and  printers'  ink. 
Eastern  capitalists  are  not  infrequently  totally  oblivious  of  these  necessities. 
They  general  expect  to  "  keep  the  cake  and  eat  it  too."  I  am  glad  to  be  in- 
formed, however,  that  Reading  is  in  the  hands  of  parties  who  are  disposed  to  do 
the  fair  thing  for  immigrants. 

Continuing  our  journey  by  railroad  we  pass  the  station  of  Horton,  cross  the 
Neosho  River  and  arrived  at  EMPORIA.  As  the  city  has  been  fully  described 
herein,  we  hasten  westward  up  the  broad  and  beautiful  valley  of  the  Cotton- 
wood,  and  pass  the  new  station  of  Toledo.  As  the  cars  have  been  running  but 
a  few  weeks,  there  is  but  little  to  indicate  where  the  stations  are  to  be. 

COTTONWOOD  FALLS,  eighty-two  miles  from  Topeka,  is  nearly  in  the  centre  of 
Chase  county,  of  which  it  is  the  county  seat.  The  rapid  stream  affords  an  excel- 
lent water  power,  whick  is  improved  by  a.  saw  and  flouring  mill.  The  stream 
is  crossed  by  one  of  the  King  Wrought  Iron  Bridges.  The  town  is  pleasantly 
located,  chiefly  en  the  south  side  of  the  river,  upon  an  undulating  prairie  roll 
which  overlooks  the  valley.  It  contains  about  500  inhabitants,  and  with  the 
advent  of  the  railroad  is  growing  rapidly,  as  it  is  the  shipping  point  for  a  great 
extent  of  fertile  country  to  the  southward.  Westward  from  Cottonwood  Falls, 
up  the  river  a  few  miles,  is  a  good  mill  at  an  excellent  water  power,  and  also 
another  water  power  eight  miles  below  the  town. 

The  stations  of  ElmdaU,  Hunts  and  Cedar  Point  occur  in  succession  as  we 
pass  up  the  valley.  The  latter  village  is  a  short  distance  from  the  depot, 
nestled  under  a  bluff  on  the  south  side  of  the  Cottonwood  upon  which  are 
growing  a  fringe  of  Red  Cedar  trees.  The  river  affords  at  this  point  a  good 
water  power,  which  is  well  improved. 

Florence  is  a  new  town  in  Marion  county,  laid  out  about  iix  months  ago  and 
now  nsmbering  in  population  some  hundreds.  It  is  built  upon  bottom  land  at 
the  junction  of  Doyle  creek  and  the  Cottonwood,  and  promises  to  be  a  place  of 
considerable  business.  There  is  aa  excellent  water  power  here,  waiting  to  be 
improved,  as  are  many  others  on  this  excellent  stream. 

The  Cottonwood  valley  is,  I  think,  among  the  most  picturesque  in  the  state. 
The  bottoms  are  from  one  to  three  miles  wide,  and  on  either  side  excellent 
inagnesiun  limestone  crops  out,  at  the  top  of  the  steep  bluffs  which  wall  in  the 
vaTley.  The  stream  is  moderately  well  timbered,  and  abundant  creeks  and  rills 
break  through  the  bluffs  and  enter  it  from  the  north  and  south.  A  marked 
characteristic  of  the  scene,  is  the  regularity  with  which  the  bluffs  and  projecting 


246  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

strata  of  rock  lessen  in  height  as  we  ascend  the  stream,  until  at  Florence  they 
are  but  a  few  feet  above  the  level  of  the  bottom  lands.  Hnge  rocks  are  laid  in 
the  abutments  and  culverts  along  this  road,  almost  as  they  came  from  the 
quarry,  with  little  use  of  hammer  and  chisel.  For  the  most  part  they  project 
themselves  from  the  bluff,  or  have  fallen  part  way  down  its  side,  and  are  ready 
to  be  transported  to  their  near  destination. 

Northwest  from  Florence,  and  in  the  Cottonwood  valley,  at  the  mouth  of 
Clear  Creek,  is  the  village  of  MARION  CENTRE,  the  county  seat  of  Marion  county. 
It  is  in  the  midst  of  the  best  farming  land  in  the  county.  Two  fine  ana  con- 
stant water  powers  are  here  awaiting  capital  for  their  improvement. 

The  railroad  leaves  the  C  ttonwood  at  Florence  and  follows  up  Doyle  Creek 
to  the  new  village  and  colony  of  Conesburg,  now  Peabody,  which  was  first 
opened  to  settlement  in  December,  1870.  It  is  located  on  the  north  side  of 
Doyle  Creek.  A  splendid  tract  of  country  lies  around  and  to  the  south  of  this 
place.  There  is  very  little  timber  in  this  region,  but  the  soil  is  good  and  water 
abundant. 

From  this  place  the  road  continues  its  southwest  course  over  the  divide, 
separating  the  waters  of  the  Cottonwood  and  the  Arkansas  rivers.  At  a  dis- 
tance of  fifteen  miles  from  Peabody  is  Newton,  the  last  station  yet  located  en 
this  road.  It  is  on  a  tributary  of  the  Little  Arkansas  river,  called  Sand  Creek, 
where  said  creek  is  crossed  by  the  old  Texas  cattle  trail.  At  this  writing,  May 
10th,  the  cars  only  run  to  Florence,  but  they  will  run  into  Newton  about  July 
1st,  and  the  will  road  immediately  be  continued  westward.  The  first  house 
was  built  in  Newton  during  the  last  ten  days,  but  there  is  already  a  good  deal 
of  excitement  in  that  vicinity  as  to  its  prospects. 

To  the  south  and  a  little  west  of  Newton,  near  the  Little  Arkansas,  is  the 
small  village  of  Sedgwick,  while  still  farther  in  the  same  course,  on  the  banks  of 
the  Arkansas  River  is  Park  City,  located  where  the  new  Texas  cattle  trail 
crosses  the  river. 

WICHITA,  the  county  seat  of  Sedgwick  county,  is  situated  on  the  east  bank  of 
the  Little  Arkansas,  at  its  junction  with  the  Arkansas  River,  and  is  twenty-five 
nrles  south  of  Newton.  It  contains  abcut  800  inhabitants  and  is  a  very  active, 
thriving  business  place.  The  settlements  in  this  county  have  nearly  all  been 
made  within  the  last  year,  and  there  are  yet  thousands  of  beautiful  claims  to 
be  tak  n  under  the  pre-emption  and  homestead  laws.  Until  this  country  was 
awakened  by  the  speedy  pro -pect  of  a  railroad,  very  few  were  inclined  to  locate 
there.  I  visited  Sedgwick  county  for  the  first  time  during  this  spring,  and  I 
think  the  Arkansas  Valley  the  finest  val!ey  in  the  State,  so  far  as  the  lay  of  the 
land,  and  excellent  soil  and  water  are  concerned.  It  is  not  better  than  the 
Kansas  valley  perhaps,  excepting  in  extent.  The  Arkansas  valley  is  here  from 
tea  to  twenty  miles  wide,  and  instead  of  being  absolutely  flat,  is  varied  by  very 
gentle  rolls.  The  soil  is  a  deep,  rich  loam,  and  is  very  quick  and  warm,  a:.d  it 
contains  cocsiderable  black  eand.  By  digging  three  or  four  feet  th:  ough  this 
soil  one  entf;rs,Mn  places,  a  composite  layer  of  clay  and  gravel  of  irregular 
thickness,  while  in  other  places  near  by,  the  subsoil  is  entirely  a  compact  bed 


THE    A.  T.  &  S.  F.  R.  R.  AND    ITS   TOWXS. 


247 


of  gravel  or  coarse  sand.  Beneath  the  composite  strata  referred  to,  one  also 
strikes  upon  the  gravel  and  sand  sub-oil.  Here  is  displayed  a  striking  s\stera 
of  sub-Irrigation.  Th?  Arkansas  River  rises  in  the  Rocky  M  untains,  and  its 
banks  are  full  during  the  growing  reason,  owing  to  the  melting  snows  in  the 
mountains;  but,  although  appareu'ly  ready  to  carry  desolation  all  arouud  by 
overflowing,  it  never  does  overflow,  but  underflows  ;nstead  in  tl:n  nor-tis  sub- 
soil of  the  valley.  By  capillary  attraction,  it  is  evident  that  a  p.  rtion  of  thia 
water  is  drawn  up  within  rea-h  of  the  r>ots  of  growing  vegetation.  It  is  to  be 
noted  however  that  the  roads  are  excellent,  mud  drying  quickly  after  a  rain. 
Throughout  this  enMre  region,  water  is  obtained  by  digging  a  frw  feet  on  the 
uplands,  as  well  as  on  the  bottoms,  and  small  flowing  streams  are  common  on 


OXFORD    WILEY,  NO.  8,753. 
[Owned  by  N.  L.  C^  affef,  at  Manhattan.] 

the  prairies.  The  water  is  pure  and  soft.  There  is  in  this  vicinity  but  little 
rock,  magnesian  limestone  and  gypsum  being  found  in  the  eastern  porti  n  of 
Sfdgwick  county,  and  red  sandstone  in  the  western  po'tion.  There  are  indi- 
cations of  coal,  and  the  Lignite  variety  will  undoubtedly  be  f^und  in  this 
valley;  but  coal  will  be  transported  on  the  cars  from  the  mines  in  OsRge 
county,  so  as  to  retail  for  twenty-five  to  thirty  cents  per  bushel.  Timber  ig 
fotind  in  limited  quantities,  but  the  people  have  adopted  the  herd  law,  by 
which  every  man  cares  for  his  own  stock,  and  little  fencing  is  needed.  The  law 
star ds  for  five  years,  during  wh'ch  time  hedges  will  be  grown.  Iron  ore  has 
been  discovered  in  the  northwest  portion  of  the  county. 


248  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

All  things  considered,  the  Arkansas  valley  is  probably  amsng  the  moat 
attractive  portions  of  the  state  for  settlers  at  this  time.  This  valley  grows 
parlicularly  fine  vegetables.  In  short  it  is  unsurpassed  for  the  production  of  all 
tilled  crops,  while  the  region  but  a  few  miles  southwest,  described  by  Mr. 
Honeck  on  page  109,  will  furnish  illimitable  stock  range  summer  and  winter 
for  m5ny  years,  as  it  is  not  adapted  to  dense  settlement,  but  almost  every 
square  mile  in  Sedgwick  county  will  furnish  excellent  tillage  land. 

Captain  Henry  Booth,  who  is  favorable  know  to  many  Kansas  men,  having 
been  a  resident  of  Western  Kansas  for  fifteen  years,  and  for  some  time  Post 
Trader  at  Fort  Lamed,  thinks  more  rain  falls  on  the  Arkansas  bottoms 
in  that  vicinity  than  falls  generally  in  Kansas  anywhere  west  of  Junction  City. 
The  river  is  wide  and  being  at  a  higher  stage  of  water  ic  the  summer  season, 
he  thinks  it  causes  rain  in  its  immediite  vicinity.  He  has  been  familar  with 
that  region  for  tan  years,  and  has  full  confidence  that  these  wide  bottom  lands 
will  prove  to  be  very  productive.  The  small  streams  of  that  region  he  says 
are  fed  by  springs  (which  flow  out  so  near  the  bed  as  to  be  out  of  sight  in  high 
water)  and  the  streams  are  never  dry.  The  stock  range  is  the  best  he  ever 
saw.  Messrs.  Beal  and  Boyd  and  others,  took  1,500  head  of  Texas  cattla  into 
the  vicinity  of  Ft.  Lamed  in  October  last,  and  out  of  the  lot  about  20  died,  the 
remainder  wintering  in  good  order  on  the  grasses,  with  no  other  feed  excepting 
salt.  Of  the  rough  land  south  of  the  Arkansas  Kiver,  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
Big  Bend,  he  speaks  very  highly  as  a  pastoral  region.  The  water  is  good  and 
abundant,  and  the  grass  of  excellent  quality.  The  Buffalo  killed  there  in 
April  of  this  year  were,  fat  after  wintering  on  these  grasses.  He  confirms  the 
account  of  abundant  and  delicious  wild  fruits.  All  these  statements  are  also 
confirmed  by  J.  M.  Steele,  Representative  from  Sedgwick  county,  who  is  famil- 
jar  with  that  country 

The  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  Railroad  has  not  been  pushing  its  line 
-very  rapidly  until  this  season,  but  its  valuable  land  franchises  are  now  in  the 
"hands  of  a  powerful  and  enterprising  corporation,  and  the  road  will  speedily 
be  constructed  up  the  broad  valley  of  the  Arkansas  River  and  one  of  its  tribu- 
taries to  New  Mexico.  Passing  through  the  boundless  grazing  and  tillage 
ilands  of  that  territory,  awakening  to  life  the  solitary  place-i,  and  developing  the 
mntold  mineral  wealth  of  that  region,  it  will  pass  on  by  the  shortest  and  best 
line  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  It  will  also  have  such  branch  lines  as  the  varied 
interests  of  its  tributary  regions  may  demand.  The  most  valuable  salt 
deposits  in  the  United  States  are  on  the  immediate  southern  border  of  Kansas, 
and  will  be  developed  by  this  road.  The  general  direction  and  the  excellent 
country  for  the  most  part,  through  which  this  road  passes,  must  make  it  a  very 
important  route. 

—Since  writing  the  foregoing  I  have  had  the  pleasure  of  an  interview  with 
several  of  the  officers  and  directors  of  the  Atchison,  Topeka  and  Santa  Fe  Rail- 
road, who  have  recently  (May,  1871,)  explored  the  country  on  the  line  of  their 
road,  through  Sedgwick,  Rice,  Barton,  Rush  and  Pawnee  counties,  extending 
their  trip  via  Fort  Zarah,  to  Coon  creek,  18  miles  beyond  Fort  Larned.  They 


THE  A.  T.  &  S.  F.  R.  R.  AND   ITS   TOWNS.        249 

followed  the  bottom  lands  of  the  Arkansas  on  their  outward  trip  and  returned 
on  the  upland  prairies,  15  to  20  miles  from  the  river.  They  report  excellent 
grass  and  good  soil  throughout  the  entire  route,  even  the  uplands  through  the 
counties  of  Barton,  Rice  and  McPherson  as  well  as  Sedgwick,  showing  a  smooth 
even  sod  of  blue  stem — the  most  valuable  of  our  prairie  grasses — over  almost 
the  entire  face  of  the  country.  Good  building  rock  was  also  found  in  many 
places,  abundant  indications  of  coal  were  noticed,  scattering  groves  of  timber 
were  seen,  many  running  streams  were  crossed,  and  everywhere  the  settlers 
have  found  pure  soft  water  at  a  depth  of  six  to  fifteen  feet  on  the  bottoms,  and 
from  twelve  to  thirty  feet  on  the  uplands.  They  saw  and  heard  of  numerous 
wells,  and  in  but  one  instance  did  they  learn  of  a  well  deeper  than  twenty-five 
feet.  The  water  is  uniformly  found  in  gravel  and  is  soft — (good  for  washing 
clothes)  although  the  surface  soil  appears  to  contain  an  abundance  of  lime. 

Mr.  W.  0.  B.  Peabody, Resident  Engineer  of  the  road,  informs  me  that  the 
genuine  Kentucky  Blue  Grass  was  seen  by  him  in  many  places,  especially  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  old  Santa  Fe  wagon  road.  This  road  having  been  traveled 
for  many  years,  as  already  explained,  by  teams  from  the  Blue  Grass  regions  of 
Missouri  and  Eastern  Kansas,  these  teams  have  scattered  the  seed  along  thf 
roadside  for  many  miles  to  the  westward.  But  Mr.  Peabody  assures  me  that 
he  saw  many  thickly  set  and  thrifty  patches  of  blue  grass  at  a  distance  from 
the  Santa  Fe  road,  which  he  is  confident  have  sprung  from  seed  conveyed  by 
buffalo.  He  has  spent  many  months  in  the  best  Mue  grass  regions  of  Kentucky, 
where  the  exercise  of  his  profession  called  him  across  a  succession  of  fields  set 
to  grass,  and  he  is  confident  that  this  grass  in  the  Arkansas  valley  is  the  identi- 
cal Kentucky  Blue  Grass.  This  testimony  is  vastly  valnable,  for  it  settles  the 
question,  "  will  blue  grass  grow  in  Western  Kansas."  I  have  already  shown 
how  rapid  and  certain  is  its  growth  in  Eastern  Kansas,  but  I  have  supposed 
that  we  must  await  experiments  before  attempting  to  answer  the  above  ques- 
tion. It  is  true  there  is  every  indication  that  it  would  succeed  on  the  best 
lands  in  Western  Kansas.  It  is  also  true  that  I  hare  been  repeatedly  informed 
by  persons  of  apparent  reliability  that  they  had  seen  Kentucky  blue  grass  in 
Western  Kansas.  The  evidence  is  conclusive  that  some  kind  of  blue  grass 
«3*ows  in  many  places  in  those  regions,  but  not  understanding  kow  the  Ken- 
tucky Blue  Grass  could  get  into  that  country,  I  have  called  it  the  Kansas  blue 
grass.  The  explanation  of  Mr.  Peabody  is,  however,  entirely  satisfactory,  as 
the  buffalo  would  naturally  transport  to  a  considerable  distance  the  blue  grass 
seed  they  would  crop  in  their  ramblings  across  the  Santa  Fe  road.  In  Eastern 
Kansas,  cattle  will  in  two  or  three  years  seed  the  prairies,  in  places,  for  miles 
around  a  blue  grass  pasture.  I  am  now  satisfied  that  the  farmers  in  Saline, 
McPherson,  Lincoln,  Ottawa  and  other  counties,  were  correct  in  their  conclu- 
sions that  they  had  discovered  small  patches  of  Kentucky  bine  grass  in  that 
region,  which  were  annually  spreading  and  driving  out  the  buffalo  grass. 

The  General  Manager  of  the  road  is  T.  J.  Peter,  and  its  lands  are  sold  by 
Laud  Commissioner  D.  L.  Lakin,  of  Topeka.  This  road  sells  on  long  time,  as 
do  all  Kansas  Railroads,  but  this  Company  has  also  devised  a  plan  whereby  a 


250  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

liberal  deduction  of  about  one-third  is  made  to  actual  settler*  in  consideration 
of  improvements  upon  the  lands.  The  road  bed,  the  masonry  and  all  the 
appointments  of  this  line  are  most  excellent,  furnishing  in  themselves  a  satis- 
factory guaranty,  aside  from  the  high  reputation  of  the  officers  of  the  road, 
that  this  company  will  construct  a  first  class  through  line. 

TOWNS    NOT    HERETOFORE   DESCRIBED. 

All  the  villages  and  cities  of  any  importance,  situated  upon  a  railroad,  or 
within  a  county  through  which  a  railroad  passes,  have  a" ready  been  described. 
It  is  deserving  of  notice,  for  the  benefit  of  Eastern  readers,  that  by  the  word 
"town"  we  mean  a  village  or  a  city.  Subdivisions  of  laud,  each  six  miles 
square,  are  called  townships,  but  every  collection  of  houses  is  called  a  town  in 
the  West,  and  occasionally,  the  inhabitants  call  their  place  a  city  before  there 
are  many  houses  to  be  seen. 

Wabaunsee  County  contains  no  towns  with  more  than  a  few  hundred  inhab- 
itants. ALMA,  the  county  seat,  is  situated  on  Mill  Creek,  which  stream  fur- 
nishes excellent  water  power  toward  its  mouth.  Near  the  stream,  below 
Alma,  is  Newbury,  and  in  the  central  portion  of  the  county  is  Eskridge,  In 
the  northwestern  portion  of  the  county,  on  the  Kansas  River,  is  Wabaunsee, 
a  village  laid  out  by  the  Connecticut  col  ny,  which  came  to  Kansas,  u^der  the 
management  of  C.  B.  Lines,  in  1856.  The  colony  was  cal'ed  "Beecher'a 
Sharp's  Rifles."  from  the  fact  that  Henry  Ward  Beecher  presented  to  each  male 
member  a  Sharp's  rifle  and  a  Bible. 

This  county,  as  well  as  Pottawotomie  county,  and  a  large  portion  of  Jackson 
and  Shawnee  counties,  was  largely  in  the  po  session  of  the  Pottawotomie 
Indians  until  recently,  and  therefore  the  land  thus  held  is  but  sparsely 
populated. 

Washington  County  is  on  the  north  line  of  the  State,  and  Little  Blue  River 
runs  through  its  northeastern  portion,  affording  excellent  water  power  at 
Hanover  and  EallarcTs  Falls,  both  awaiting  development.  The  county  seat  is 
WASHINGTON,  a  town  of  about  500  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  north  side  of 
Mill  Creek,  on  undulating  second  bottom.  There  is  here  a  water  grist  mill  and 
saw  mill,  and  also  others  six  miles  down  the  stream.  Coal  has  been  little 
developed,  as  wood  is  delivered  at $3.50  par  cord;  but  there  is  coal  in  abund 
ance,  and  it  is  used  by  blacksmiths,  which  tests  its  quality. 

Republic  County,  next  west  of  Washington,  is  abundantly  watered,  the 
Republican  River  running  across  its  western  portion,  which  is  described  by 
the  letter  from  Mr.  Warner.  New  Scandinavia  is  situated  on  the  east  bank  of 
the  Republican,  and  has  fine  unimproved  water  power.  BELLVILLE,  the  county 
seat,  is  situated  centrally  in  the  county,  on  high  table  land  a  very  little  rolling. 
It  is  between  Riley  and  Salt  Creeks.  This  central  portion  of  the  county 
although  high,  is  said  to  be  good  tillage  land,  while  the  valleys  are  excellent. 
Jewdl.  County,  is  but  sparsely  settled,  the  first  emigrants  going  in  the  spring 
of  1870, but  many  hundred  families  have  gone  there  and  into  the  reg'on  beyond. 
JEWELL  CITY  is  the  county  seat.  It  is  very  favorably  spoken  of. 


TOWNS   NOT   HERETOFORE   DESCRIBED.          251 

Mitchell  County  south  of  Jewell,  has  in  its  limits  two  thriving  towns.  Caw- 
ker  City  is  situated  in  the  northwest  portion  of  the  county  on  the  north  iide 
of  the  Solomon,  at  the  confluence  of  the  North  and  South  Forks  of  that  stream. 
Other  streams  also  enter  near  here,  making  this  place  the  centre  of  a  number 
of  valleys  and  giving  a  good  supply  of  timber,  much  of  which  is  hard  wood. 
There  is  here  a  good  steam  saw  and  grist  mill.  Fast  of  this  place,  and  nearly 
in  the  centre  of  the  county,  is  BELOIT,  the  eounty  seat,  beautifully  situated  on 
the  south  bank  of  the  Solomon  River,  which  is  also  thriving  apace.  The  sur- 
rounding country  is  highly  spoken  of. 

Osborne  and  other  counties  to  thd  west  of  Mitchell,  are  watered  by  the  South 
Fork  of  the  Solomon  and  its  tributaries.  Settlements  are  just  beginning  to 
extend  into  this  attractive  coxmtry. 

Lincoln  County  lies  south  of  Mitchell.  The  Saline  River  runs  through  its 
entire  length,  furnishing  one  or  two  water  powers.  The  county  is  well  watered 
and  is  highly  prized  by  its  citizens  for  stock  purposes.  A  good  deal  of 
blue  grass  is  faid  to  grow  upon  the  bottoms,  furnishing  winter  feed.  Abram 
has  recently  been  laid  out  near  the  centre  of  the  county  as  county  seat. 
Another  town  is  being  laid  out  by  the  side  of  a  water  power  in  ihe  western 
portion  of  the  c  uuty.  Magnesian  limestone  rock  extends  entirely  across  the 
bottom  of  the  river.  Messrs.  Ira  C.  &  H.  S.  Buzic,  S-hemerhorn,  Green,  Powers 
Lyden  Barrett,  Penny  Freebon  and  otters,  each  wintered  from  500  to  1,000 
head  of  cattle  upon  the  native  grasses,  and  they  came  out  in  very  good  order, 
with  small  loss.  Others  did  this  all  thorugh  Western  Kansas,  but  I  mention  these 
names  because  tbey  were  furnished  me  by  a  friend  who  is  acquainted  with 
the  parties.  The  Lincoln  County  Gazette  \ras  established  at  Abram  since  my 
list  of  papers  was  put  in  type. 

Ottawa  County  is  a  fine  county  of  land,  both  for  farming  on  the  wide  bottoms 
of  the  Solomon  and  Saline  and  tributaries,  and  for  farming  and  grazing  on  the 
uplands.  The  county  seat  is  MINNEAPOLIS,  situated  on  gently  rolling  -prairie 
on  the  east  side  of  the  Solomon  River  near  the  mouth  of  Pipe  Creek,  a  con- 
siderable stream  of  constant  running  water.  A  dam  120  feet  in  length  extends 
across  the  Solomon,  built  on  rock  bottom,  and  a  flouring  and  saw  mill  is  con- 
stantly running  by  water  power.  Lindsay,  two  miles  below,  also  has  a  water 
power  not  yet  improved,  a  short  distance  below  the  town.  At  Delphos,  on  the 
Solomon  in  the  north  part  of  the  county  is  a  water  power,  and  also  on  the 
Saline  in  the  southwestern  corner  of  the  county.  T.  E.  Scott  keeps  about  700 
head  of  sheep  in  this  county,  with  profits  that  are  entirely  satisfactory  to  him- 
self. Jacob  Campbell  and  many  others  keep  large,  droves  of  cattle. 

Cloud  County,  situated  north  of  Ottawa,  is  watered  both  by  the  Republican 
and  Solomon  Rivers  and  their  tributaries. 

CONCORDIA  is  the  county  seat,  and  a!so  contains  the  United  States  Land  OflSce 
for  the  Repu1  lican  Land  District.  The  town  was  located  in  1870,  on  the  south 
side  of  the  Republican  River,  on  second  bottom  and  bluff  land.  The  site  is  a 
beautiful  one,  and  the  town  is  growing  rapidly.  Clyde  and  Shirley  are  thriv- 
ing villages  on  the  Republican,  in  the  northeastern  part  of  the  county,  and 


252  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

Olascoe  was  lately  laid  out  on  the  Solomon,  in  the  southwestern  part  of  the 
county.  It  is  in  the  region  of  the  Republican  River  that  are  found  the  salt 
marshes  described  by  Professor  Mudge.  I  am  informed  by  B.  H.  McEckron, 
Representative  from  this  county,  that  there  flow  into  the  Republican  in  this 
county,  three  timbered  streams  on  the  north  side  of  the  river,  and  thirteen  on 
the  south  side.  A  few  miles  north  of  Concordia  a  valuable  coal  mine  has 
recently  been  opened,  from  which  coal  is  carried  forty  miles,  to  Waterville, 
and  there  used  for  blacksmithing.  The  eastern  half  of  this  county  is  red  sand- 
stone formation,  and  the  western  half  Magnesian  limestone. 

Clay  County  lies  eastward  of  the  last  mentioned  county,  and  the  Republican 
River  runs  through  the  county  from  the  noi  th western  to  the  southeastern  cor- 
ner, with  numerous  tributaries,  while  Chapman's  Creek  winds  through  the 
southwestern  part  of  the  county. 

CLAY  CENTRE  is  the  county  seat,  and  is  situated  on  the  north  side  of  the 
Republican.  The  site  slopes  gently  to  the  southwest,  and  a  stream,  fed  by 
living  springs,  courses  through  the  lower  portion  of  the  town.  They  have 
erected  a  stone  school  house  and  Baptist  church.  A  flouring  and  saw  mill 
stores,  &c.,  also  are  to  be  found  here. 

Republican  City  is  situated  near  the  river  of  that  name,  and  is  in  the  centre 
of  the  county.  It  was  recently  laid  out,  but  has  stores,  a  hotel,  drug  store,  Ac. 
Bituminous(?)coal  is  found  in  this  county,  of  very  good  quality  ;  and  lead  ore 
has  recently  been  discovered  in  the  northern  portion  of  the  county,  which,  by 
analysis  at  St.  Louis,  yielded  ninety  per  cent,  of  lead.  A  company  is  organ- 
ized to  test  its  value.  On  the  Republican,  in  the  southeastern  portion  of  the 
county,  is  Wakefield,  a  thriving  village,  in  an  excellent  country.  It  was  laid 
out  by  an  English  colony,  under  the  charge  of  Rev.  Mr.  Wake.  This  county 
contains  fine  lands,  both  for  cultivation  and  grazing. 

We  have  thus  rapidly  glanced  at  the  northwestern  unties  of  Kansas.  All 
that  this  region  needs  for  its  thorough  development,, -is  railroads.  There  are 
no  land  grants  yet  made  for  that  section  of  the  state,  but  if  by  granting 
every  other  section,  two  or  three  railroads  could  be  constructed  through  that 
region,  it  would  be  vastly  better  for  all.  Eighty  acres,  five  miles  from  a  rail- 
road, is  better  than  160  acres,  fifty  miles  from  a  railroad.  Railroads  will 
soon  push  into  this  country,  as  the  attractions  of  these  valleys  are  too  great  to 
remain  much  longer  unawakened  by  the  whistle  of  the  locomotive.  But  if 
no  land  grants  are  made,  local  subsidies  will  be  necessary,  and  these  can  only 
be  made  available  in  the  form  of  county,  township  or  city  bonds. 

Crossing  the  Kansas  Pacific  Railway,  the  only  organized  county  in  Cen- 
tral or  Western  Kansas,  of  which  we  have  not  spoken,  is  McPherson.  This 
county  is  watered  in  the  north  part  by  the  Smoky  Hill  River  and  its  tributa- 
ries, and  the  Little  Arkansas  passes  through  the  southwestern  portion,  receiv- 
ing Turkey  Creek,  which  rises  in  the  central  portion  of  the  county,  and  is 
timbered  with  hard  wood.  The  wide  bottoms  along  these  streams,  are  excel- 
lent agricultural  land,  and  the  county  is  well  watered,  affording  fine  range 


TOWNS   NOT   HERETOFORE   DESCRIBED.          253 

for  stock.  LINDSBORO,  formerly  known  as  Sweedale,  is  situated  on  the  north 
bank  of  the  Smoky  Hill  River,  and  is  the  county  seat.  It  was  located  by  the 
"1st  Sweedish  Agricultural  Colony,"  organized  in  Chicago,  under  the  direction 
of  Rev.  0.  Olsson  and  others.  In  the  eastern  part  of  the  county  is  another 
Sweedish  colony  from  Galesburg  and  Berlin,  Illinois,  Rev.  A.  Dahlsten  pastor. 
These  gentlemen  have  organized  two  large  and  flourishing  Lutheran  churches. 
The  country  is  excellent,  and  some  large  stock  farms  have  been  opened.  A 
Kentucky  colopy  is  located  on  the  rich  lands  of  Gypsum  Creek,  in  the  eastern 
part  of  the  county,  and  there  are  good  settlements  in  the  south  portion  of  the 
ceunty  aud  excellent  land. 

Of  the  country  west  from  this  county,  I  have  already  spoken  sufficiently  in 
detail.  This  entire  Arkaasas  Valley  region,  with  the  valeys  of  its  numerous 
tributaries,  will  soon  be  noisy  with  the  hum  of  busy  multitudes,  who  will  be 
making  homes,  planting  crops,  trees  and  hedges,  and  building  railroads  and 
towns.  The  town  of  Atlanta  was  lately  located  centrally  in  Rice  county,  by  an 
enterprising  company. 

Crossing  the  fine  county  of  Sedgwick,  already  described  under  the  head  of 
of  the  A.  T.  &  S.  F.  R.  R.,  we  enter  Sumner  County,  which  is  on  the  south  line 
of  the  state,  and  entirely  within  the  "  Osage  Lands,"  which  we  have  already 
shown  are  for  sale  to  actual  settlers  only  at  $1.25  per  acre.  The  Arkansas 
River  passes  through  the  eastern  portion  of  this  county,  and  this,  with 
other  streams,  sufficiently  waters  a  very  excellent  country.  The  first  settlers 
went  into  this  country  during  the  spring  of  1871,  but  it  is  rapidly  being 
occupied.  It  is  not  yet  organized,  and  I  do  not  know  where  its  principal  towns- 
are  situated.  Sumner  is  a  magnificent  county. 

The  country  west  of  Sumner  county  has  been  but  little  explored.  Its  valleys 
are  highly  spoken  of  for  cultivation,  in  the  letter  published  from  Mr.  Honeckr 
while  its  uplands  are  evidently  unsurpassed  for  grazing,  and  it  must  be  a 
good  fruit  region. 

COWLET  COUNTY  lies  east  of  Sumner,  and  is  watered  by  the  Arkansas,  which 
flows  along  the  western  line  of  the  county  a  distance  of  25  or  30  miles,  and  also 
by  the  Walnut,  a  fine  stream  which  runs  through  the  central  portion  of  the 
county  and  empties  into  the  Arkansas  River  near  the  State  line.  Near  the 
confluence  of  these  streams  is  Arkansas  City,  which  was  laid  out  in  the  fall 
of  1870,  and  contains  several  hundred  inhabitants,  and  is  rapidly  improving. 
A  pontoon  bridge  is  about  to  be  built  across  the  Arkansas  River  at  this  place. 
North  of  this  place,  and  at  the  junction  of  Timber  Creek  with  the  Walnut 
River  is  WIWPIELD,  the  county  seat  of  Cowley  county.  It  is  situated  on 
second  bottom  and  overlooks  the  broad  and  beautiful  valley.  Two  water 
powers  are  here  fovind,  and  there  are  numerous  water  powers  in  the  county. 
This  county  has  timber,  stone,  coal  and  as  good  land  as  lies  out  of  doors. 
Winfield  was  laid  out  by  B.  C.  Manning  in  January,  1870,  and  contains  500  or 
more  inhabitants.  This  entire  county  is  within  the  0?age  Trust  Lands. 

Butler  County— Moving  northward  up  the  Walnut  we  cross  the  county  line 
and  soon  reach  the  village  of  Douglas,  which  L&B  a  valuable  unimproved  water 


254  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

power.  Twelve  miles  up  the  Walnut  is  Augusta,  which  is  the  seat  of  tne  U.  S. 
Land  Office  for  this  district.  It  is  a  new  place,  but  is  rapidly  improving,  and  is 
said  to  contain  more  than  500  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  at  the  confluence  of 
the  Whitewater  and  Walnut  rivers,  with  a  water  power  on  both  streams. 
Twelve  miles  above  Augusta  is  ELDORADO,  the  county  seat  of  of  Butler  county. 
It  is  a  thriving  and  substantial  town,  with  about  600  inhabitants,  built  on 
gently  sloping  second  bottom,  at  the  junction  of  the  main  Wa'nut  with  the 
West  Branch.  It  has  an  unimproved  water  power.  There  are  many  other 
water  p  wers  in  this  county,  as  the  streams  are  all  rapid  and  fed  b\  numerous 
large  springs.  The  Walrut  valley  is  one  of  the  fiest  p. rt;ous  of  Kansas  Its 
railroad  facilities  are  yet  undetermined,  but  it  is  probable  that  a  road  will  soon 
be  constructed  from  some  po'ut  on  the  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  Railroad, 
down  this  rich  valley  through  Butler  and  Cowley  counties,  while  other  roads 
will  penetrate  this  region  from  the  « ast. 

Eastward  from  Butler  is  Greenwood  county,  also  a  very  valuable  connty  of 
land,  and  with  an  abundance  of  tiaiber,  stone,  water  and  water  power.  The 
Verdigris  and  Fall  River  com  so  through  this  c  unty  from  north  to  southeast, 
furnishing  water  power  every  few  miles,  and  receiving  numerous  tributaries. 
Two  mills  are  now  run  by  water.  Good  coal  has  been  opened  iu  various  parts 
of  the  county.  EUREKA  is  the  county  seat,  and  the  only  town  of  importance  in 
the  county.  It  is  centrally  loca'ed,  on  Fall  River,  and  contains  a  population 
of  about  800,  and  is  a  town  of  substantial  growth  and  character.  Greenwood 
Oity  has  been  recently  laid  out  near  the  eastern  line  of  the  county  in  an  excel- 
lent farming  region.  Eureka  will  undoubtedly  be  connected  with  the  world 
by  rail  at  no  distant  day  by  a  line  running  eastward,  but  probably  the  first 
railroad  she  obtains  will  be  a  branch  from  the  L.  L.  &  G.  R.  R.  at  Ottawa  via 
Burlington. 

Wilson  County  lies  southeast  of  Greenwood,  and  is  also  well  watered  by 
Fall  R  ver  and  Verdigris,  which  run  through  the  count  ,  receiving  many 
tributaries,  and  unite  near  the  southern  border.  At  their  confluence  is  Neodo- 
sha,  a  thriving  town  with  a  population  of  about  800.  It  has  water  power  and 
three  good  mills,  a  grist  mill  and  a  three  foot  vein  of  coal,  one  mile  from  town. 
At  FREDONIA,  the  county  seat,  and  Fall  River,  above  Verdi,  on  th  i  Verdigris, 
and  at  Guilford,  Altoona,  Coyville  and  Jackson's  Mills,  are  improved  water 
power.-.  Fredouia  and  Altoona  are  towns  of  importance.  Buffalo  is  a  post- 
office  and  village  in  the  northeastern  portion  of  the  county. 

Montgomery  County  is  south  of  Wilsoc,  and  like  that  county,  is  almost 
entirely  within  the  Oeage  Trust  Lands.  It  is  the  eastermost  couaty  on  these 
lands,  and  has  settled  with  great  rapidity,  and  its  lands,  especially  the  valleys, 
are  highly  esteemed  by  the  settlers.  It  is  watered  by  the  Verdigris  River 
and  its  tributaries.  INDEPENDENCE,  on  this  stream,  and  in  the  center  of  the 
county,  is  the  county  s  at.  It  is  a  thriving  place  of  nearly  a  thousand  inhabi- 
tants. The  Leavenworth,  Lawrence  &  Galveston  Railroad  is  now  being  com- 
pleted diagonally  through  this  county  to  the  south  line  of  the  State,  but  at 
this  writing  I  am  not  in'brme !  as  to  its  route.  The  couuty  is  well  supplied 
with  coal,  timber  and  stone,  farker  is  the  second  largest  town  and  is 


IRRIGATION.  255 

located  in  the  southeastern  portion  of  the  county.  There  ia  an  abundance  of 
water  power  in  the  county,  and  a  number  of  mills  run  by  water.  There  ar« 
also  several  villages,  among  which  are  Radical  City,  Elk  City,  Coneyville,  Ennis- 
ville  and  Liberty. 

Howard  County  lies  to  the  west  of  Montgomery,  and  is  also  entirely  within 
the  Osage  Trust  Lands.  It  is  watered  by  Elk  River,  Big  Caney,  Middle  Caney, 
and  many  other  smaller  streams  The  county  has  an  abundance  of  water 
power.  Thrre  is  a  great  deal  of  fine  Bottom  laud  in  the  county,  but  perhaps 
it  has  not  so  large  an  amount  of  tillage  laud  in  comparison  with  the  grazing 
laud,  as  the  adjoining  counties.  It  is  rapidly  settling,  but  there  are  many 
choice  farms  yet  to  be  taken  at  $1.25  per  acre.  I  am  not  able  to  say  what  Is 
the  county  seat,  as  the  question  has  been  in  dispute.  Longton,  Elk  fhllsa.ud 
Peru  are  the  principal  towns  in  the  county.  The  first  settlers  went  into  the 
county  but  a  few  months  ago,  but  the  population  Is  rapidly  increasing. 

IRRIGATION. 

I  think  the  only  stream  in  Kansas  from  which 
water  can  ever  be  used  to  any  considerable  extent 
for  irrigation,  is  the  Arkansas  .River.  The  benefits 
of  irrigation  are  in  demand  only  during  about  three 
months  of  each  year,  while  crops  are  growing,  and 
at  that  time  the  streams  in  Kansas,  as  everywhere 
else,  unless  fed  by  mountain  rivlets  flowing  from 
perpetual  snows,  are  at  their  lowest.  It  is  true  that 
upon  small  streams,  dams  may  be  made,  and  by  erect- 
ing windmill  pumps  at  wells,  reservoirs  may  be  filled, 
but  for  extensive  operations  in  irrigation,  the  Arkan- 
sas is  the  only  stream  that  can  be  relied  upon.  Not 
only  is  this  stream  at  its  highest  stage  during  the 
summer,  but  its  banks  are  everywhere  low,  so  that 
water  may  be  taken  from  it  without  difficulty.  The 
fail  of  the  Arkansas  River  in  the  Indian  Territoy  is 
estimated  by  Mr.  O.  Chanute  at  two  feet  per  mile. 
In  Kansas,  the  country  rises  much  more  rapidly  to 
the  west,  and  the  fall  of  the  river  is  probably  two  or 
three  times  these  figures.  In  Colorado,  main  irriga- 
tion ditches  are  given  a  grade  of  from  two  to  five 
feet  per  mile,  accroding  to  that  excellent  authority, 
the  Rocky  Mountain  News.  The  Arkansas  therefore 


256  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

has  fall  enough  for  irrigation  purposes,  especially  when 
we  take  into  consideration  its  numerous  windings. 

Another  important  element  in  this  discussion  is  the 
character  of  the  soil  to  be  irrigated.  I  have  not 
made  anything  like  an  exhaustive  investigation  of 
this  subject,  but  it  appears  that  a  sandy  soil  is  essen- 
tial to  success  in  irrigation.  It  is  probable  that 
a  clay  soil  would  retain  the  water  so  long  as  to 
bake  the  surface  and  injure  the  roots,  and  from  a 
few  experiments  made  in  this  State  I  think  the  same 
thing  true,  but  to  a  less  degree,  of  our  prairie  loam. 

It  is  questionable  whether  there  is  much  land  in 
Kansas,  excepting  in  the  extreme  western  portion, 
that  is  adapted  to  irrigation,  and  I  am  quite  confi- 
dent that  with  deep  tillage,  there  is  little  land  in  the 
State  that  needs  irrigation,  excepting  in  the  extreme 
western  portion.  Some  however  have  supposed,  not 
from  experiment,  but  from  the  appearance  of  the 
soil,  that  the  Arkansas  Eiver  region,  above  Fort 
Dodge,  would  be  benefitted  by  irrigation.  If  this  be 
true,  we  may  look  to  that  vicinity  for  magnificent 
irrigation  operations  within  a  very  short  time. 

While  in  Colorado  recently,  I  obtained  a  few  items 
upon  this  subject  which  may  interest  the  reader. 
The  city  of  Denver  is  irrigated  by  a  ditch  which  is 
carried  along  a  gentle  eminence,  rising  at  the  eastern 
outskirts  of  the  city.  The  water  is  conveyed  in  a  com- 
mon ditch,  which  is  about  three  feet  wide  and  three 
feet  deep,  although  usually  of  greater  width  than 
depth.  At  convenient  distances,  conductors  made  $f 
four,  2  inch  pine  plank,  6  to  12  feet  long,  are  placed 
in  the  lower  bank  of  the  canal.  The  lower  end,  or 
mouth  of  all  these  troughs,  extends  beyond  the  em- 
bankment to  prevent  washing.  At  the  upper  end  is 
a  gate,  which  may  be  opened  to  any  desired  hight, 
indicated  upon  it  in  inches,  and  when  in  place  it  is 
fastened  with  a  strong  padlock.  The  water  is  con- 
veyed from  the  largest  ditch  to  a  set  of  smaller  ones, 


IRRIGATION.  257 

from  which  it  is  distributed  through  troughs  with 
gates,  as  above  described,  to  still  smaller  ditches, 
which  run  through  the  city  at  the  edge  of  the  side- 
walks, and  from  which  it  is  taken  into  the  yards  and 
gardens.  The  ditch  gates  in  Denver  vary  from 
8x8  inches  to  16x16  inches  in  size.  The  price  for 
water  was  formerly  $5.00  per  year  for  a  single  lot  of 
25x125  feet.  Farmers  above  the  city  are  supplied 
from  this  ditch  at  the  rate  of  $3.00  per  square  inch. 
That  is,  a  gate  is  opened  to  such  a  hight  as  to  make 
an  opening,  say  32  inches  square.  The  gate  is  then 
locked,  and  the  water  flows  through  the  opening  dur- 
ing the  entire  season,  which  the  farmer  conducts 
upon  his  land  in  such  manner  as  suits  him.  For  this 
he  pays  $96.00  for  the  season.  When  a  company 
owns  a  ditch,  the  price  varys  from  $2.00  to  $3.00  per 
inch.  Usually,  however,  the  farmers  co-operate  to 
construct  and  own  a  ditch  themselves,  when  the  cost 
is  considerably  less.  It  is  ordinarily  calculated  that 
from  one-half  an  inch,  to  one  inch  of  water  is  required 
through  the  growing  season,  to  each  acre  irrigated. 
One  farmer  told  me  he  irrigated  35  acres  with  20 
inches  of  water,  and  that  it  required  one  man  to 
attend  to  the  irrigation  during  three  months  time. 
The  water  was  applied  to  every  portion  of  the 
ground  about  once  a  week,  running  in  one  set  of 
small  ditches  ten  or  twelve  hours,  and  then  turned 
onto  another  part  of  the  field  for  the  same  period. 
The  engineer  of  the  G-reeley  colony  reports  the  com- 
pletion of  a  canal  26  miles  long.  The  cost  of  exca- 
vating was  $22,669,  there  being  107,949  cubic  yards 
at  21  cents  per  yard.  It  would  seem  that  there  is 
some  mistake  in  the  figures,  for  a  ditch  of  the  above 
size  would  only  convey  about  water  enough  to  irri- 
gate 3,000  acres,  allowing  one-half  inch  per  acre. 
This  would  be  quite  expensive  irrigation.  Fre- 
quently water  is  taken  from  streams  at  a  trifling 


258  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

expense,  but  ordinarily  it  may  be  said  that  the  cost 
of  water  for  irrigation,  varies  from  50  cents  to  $3.00 
per  acre,  each  year. 

ALTITUDES. 

No  pains  have  been  spared  to  obtain  the  correct 
elevations  of  different  places  in  Kansas  above  the 
ocean  level  for  use  on  the  accompanying  map.  The 
Superintendents  and  Chief  Engineers  of  the  various 
railroads  kindly  furnished  me  the  levels  of  their 
respective  lines,  but  no  two  were  from  the  same  base. 
In  order  to  arrive  at  the  altitude  above  the  ocean,  I 
applied  to  Mr.  O.  Chanute,  of  Kansas  City,  Chief 
Engineer  of  the  M.  E.,  Ft.  S  &  G%,  the  L.  L.  &  G-.  and 
the  A.  &  N.  E.  Eailroads,  and  whose  scientific  accu- 
racy is  well  known. 

Mr.  Chanute  informed  me  that  by  the  levels  of  the 
Mobile  &  Ohio  E.  E,  high  water  of  1849  at  Columbus, 
Kentucky,  was  308i  feet  above  tide  water  at  Mobile. 
The  levels  of  the  Illinois  Central  and  Ohio  &  Missis- 
sippi E.  B.  from  Columbus  via  Cairo  to  St.  Louis, 
corrected  by  test  levels  over  the  Iron  Mountain  E. 
E.  from  Columbus  show  the  St.  Louis  Directrix  to  be 
403  feet  above  the  Gulf.  Mr.  Chanute  has  not  been 
able  to  obtain  what  he  considers  entirely  reliable 
figures  showing  the  elevation  of  the  mouth  of  the 
Kansas  Eiver  above  St.  Louis,  but  according  to  the 
best  data  at  his  command,  the  bottom  land  at  State 
Line  and  Kansas  City,  on  which  is  situated  the 
Union  Depots,  is  748  feet  above  tide  water  at  Mobile. 
The  fall  of  the  Missouri  Eiver  he  reckons  at  0,664 
feet  per  mile,  making  St.  Joseph,  109  miles  up  the 
river,  820  feet  above  the  ocean. 

Denver  at  the  foot  of  the  Eocky  Mountains  in 
Colorado  Territory,  638  miles  west  of  Kansas  City 
by  the  K.  P.  K.  is  6,100  feet  above  the  ocean  level. 

NOTE.— The  elevation  of  Newton  on  the  A.  T.  &  S.  K.  K.  is  not  correctly  shown 
D  the  accompanying  map.    It  should  be  1,445. 


PRODUCTIONS   OF   KANSAS.  259 

PRODUCTIONS    OF   KANSAS. 

It  would  seem  that  enough  had  been  said  about  the 
productions  of  the  State,  but  I  am  in  receipt  of  such 
questions  as  these:  Can  you  raise  vegetables  in 
Kansas  ?  Can  you  raise  sorghum  in  Kansas  ?  Is  it 
a  good  country  for  hogs  ?  etc.,  etc.  Perhaps  some  of 
these  questions  have  not  been  directly  answered  in 
the  preceding  pages. 

Kansas  is  an  excellent  country  for  vegetables  and 
vines.  Mellons  grow  in  profusion.  The  best  Irish 
potatoes  grow  on  land  which  has  in  it  the  most  sand, 
and  a  crop  should  be  planted  for  summer  use  as  soon 
as  the  frost  is  out  of  the  ground,  and  then  a  crop 
planted  in  June  for  winter  use.  Some  persons  cover 
their  potatoes  with  straw  instead  of  earth,  at  plant- 
ing, dropping  the  seed  in  a  furrow.  Potatoes  are 
always  of  good  quality,  and  produce  a  good  crop  if 
planted  in  this  way.  This  is  an  excellent  country 
for  sweet  potatoes,  and  by  packing  them  in  dry  sand 
in  tight  boxes  or  barrels,  they  are  kept  through  the 
winter  nicely,  in  a  cellar  of  moderate  temperature. 
Cellery  and  asparagus  also  thrive.  A  gentleman  in 
Leavenworth  blanched  his  cellery  successfully,  by 
letting  it  grow  thickly  together  on  rich  land,  instead 
of  heaping  earth  about  the  stalks.  The  leaves 
shaded  the  stalks  so  completely  that  they  grew 
tender  and  white.  Sorghum  is  a  crop  which  has 
never  failed.  Even  during  the  famous  "  dry  season  " 
its  long  roots  found  sufficient  moisture  below  the 
surface — another  proof  of  the  value  of  deep  cultiva- 
tion. Peanuts  are  easily  grown  here  on  our  lightest 
lands.  In  short,  anything  that  grows  in  the  States 
east  of  Kansas  in  this  latitude,  or  farther  north,  can 
be  produced,  cheaply  in  profusion  here.  Sod  corn  is 
grown  by  planting  corn  on  newly  turned  prairie  sod, 
cutting  through  it  with  an  ax  or  spade.  The  seed  is 
put  in  this  opening,  and  the  planter  presses  the  sod 


260  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

with  his  foot  as  he  walks  along.  No  after  culture 
can  be  given,  as  the  sod  is  too  tough  to  be  cultivated, 
but  weeds  do  not  appear  the  first  year,  and  from  20 
to  40  bushels  of  corn  may  be  grown  if  planted  before 
June.  The  sod  rots  the  first  year,  and  afterward 
plows  easily. 

HOGS. 

Concerning  fattening  pork,  a  large  number  of  our 
best  farmers  lately  gave  their  opinions  through  the 
Kansas  Farmer,  that  they  can  grow  corn  at  the 
present  prices  for  labor,  etc.,  at  40  cents  or  less  per 
bushel.  They  agreed,  as  do  farmers  generally,  that 
corn  fed  in  the  ear,  will  produce  ten  pounds  of  pork 
for  each  bushel  of  corn.  This  refers  to  fattening 
hogs  after  they  are  grown  to  proper  size,  and  means 
that  a  hog  in  fair  condition  and  of  decent  stock, 
weighing  250  pounds,  can  be  made  to  weigh  350 
pounds  by  feeding  10  bushels  of  corn.  In  raising 
hogs,  our  farmers  have  but  recently  commenced  upon 
what  is  to  be  a  system  extensively  practiced,  and 
that  is  to  graze  them  on  red  clover,  winter  rye,  sor- 
ghum, etc.  Some  farmers  pasture  sheep  or  young 
-cattle  on  winter  rye  during  the  winter,  and  then  let 
it  grow  and  ripen,  and  turn  hogs  in  to  harvest  it. 
The  object  is  save  labor  and  thereby  increase  the 
profits. 

Perhaps  it  is  out  of  place,  but  I  must  protest 
against  the  notion  of  some  people  that  it  will  not 
pay  to  use  fertelizers.  Deep  plowing,  and  rotation 
of  crops,  will  keep  our  lands  in  good  heart  for  gen- 
erations probably,  yet  it  will  pay  to  apply  all  the 
manure  that  is  made  on  a  farm.  Farmers  in  Illinois, 
Iowa,  etc.,  have  found  this  out,  and  Kansas  farmers 
are  also  beginning  to  learn  it. 


MANUFACTURES.  261 

MANUFACTURES. 

While  it  is  true  that  Kansas  is  to  be  pre-eminently 
renowned  for  stock  raising,  agriculture  and  fruit 
growing,  it  is  not  less  true  that  with  our  water  power 
and  cheap  coal,  certain  branches  of  manufacturing 
will  prove  very  remunerative.  Aside  from  flouring 
mills,  the  demand  for  which  is  apparent  and  is  not 
half  supplied,  there  should  be  many  more  agricul- 
tural implement  manufactories.  It  is  needless  to 
say  that  the  demand  is  extensive  and  incessant  and 
constantly  increasing,  and  it  is  evident  that  such 
material  as  is  not  to  be  found  in  this  State,  can  be 
shipped  here  for  a  less  rate  than  can  cumbersome 
machinery  after  it  is  put  together.  The  same  is  true 
of  wagons,  carriages,  etc.  In  the  manufacture  of 
woolen  fabrics  of  coarser  grade,  there  certainly  will 
be  great  profit,  as  the  material  is  at  hand,  and  the 
market  is  extensive  both  here  and  in  the  newer 
regions  south  and  west.  Cotton  can  be  obtained 
cheaply  also,  as  it  is  grown  successfully  in  the  Indian 
Territory  which  lies  immediately  south  of  us,  and 
our  railroad  lines,  will  within  a  year,  penetrate  the 
vast  cottonfields  of  Texas,  which  are  less  than  three 
hundred  miles  distant  from  our  southern  State  line. 

The  following  extract  from  the  Bulletin  of  the  Na- 
tional Woolen  Manufacturers'  Association,  furnishes 
conclusive  testimony  as  to  the  adaptation  of  the 
West  to  the  business  of  manufacturing  goods  of 
common  grade: 

"The  advantages  legitimately  claimed  by  the 
western  manufacturers  are,  the  saving  of  transporta- 
tion on  both  raw  material  and  fabrics;  the  facility  of 
sending  directly  to  customers — no  commissions  being 
paid  to  middlemen  in  the  large  cities — and  the  public 
sentiment  of  the  consumers  in  favor  of  the  products 
of  their  own  region,  which  is  encouraged  by  the 
confidence  that  the  goods  are  honestly  made.  It  is 


262 


HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 


evident  from  facts  observed  by  us,  that  the  "West  will 
hereafter  rely  to  a  large  extent  upon  the  products  of 
its  own  mills  for  ordinary  cloths,  and  that  the  East 
must  relinquish  this  market,  or  compete  by  cheaper 
productions,  or  a  higher  class  of  fabrics." 

FREIGHTS. 

The  following  table,  furnished  me  by  Messrs. 
Bidenour  &  Baker,  Wholesale  Grocers,  at  Lawrence, 
shows  that  freights  between  Kansas  and  the  East 
are  very  reasonable.  Goods  from  New  York  are 
delivered  at  the  Missouri  River  cheaper  than  at 
most  of  the  towns  in  the  interior  of  Illinois.  The 
strife  between  the  various  through  lines,  which  com- 
pete for  the  increase  trade  of  Kansas  and  the  west 
and  southwest,  is  sufficiently  dwelt  upon  under  the 
head  of  Railroads,  and  it  is  there  shown  that  this 
competition  is  no  inconsiderable  item  in  the  long  list 
of  causes  which  bring  so  many  people  to  Kansas 
and  make  them  so  prosperous  after  they  get  here : 

TABULAR  STATEMENT  of  the  rates  of  freight  per  hundred  pounds,  betwem 
the  various  cities  mentioned,  and  the  State  of  Kansas  at  the  Missouri  river 
January  1, 1871.  Prepared  by  Messrs.  Ridenour  &  Baker,  wholesale  grocer*, 
Lawrence,  Kansas. 


FIRST 
CLASS. 

SECOICD 
CLASS. 

THIRD 
CLASS. 

FOURTH 

CLASS. 

New  York  

$2  60 

$2  03 

$1  69 

$1  14 

2  60 

2  03 

1  69 

1  14 

Philadelphia  

2  60 

2  03 

1  69 

1  14 

Pittsburg  

1  70 

1  20 

1  00 

85 

1  40 

1  05 

85 

60 

Cincinnati  

1  00 

75 

75 

§0 

90 

75 

65 

45 

St  Louis 

60 

40 

40 

30 

Buffalo  

2  40 

1  85 

1  50 

1  05 

Cleveland         .  .           .         .... 

1  70 

1  20 

1  00 

85 

Toledo 

1  70 

1  20 

1  00 

85 

Detroit  

1  70 

1  20 

1  00 

85 

Chicago 

1  00 

75 

75 

50 

Quincy  

60 

40 

40 

30 

FREIGHTS.  268 

The  above  are  winter  rates.  Summer  rates  are 
about  30  to  50  per  cent  less.  First  class  rates  from, 
New  York  and  Boston  to  the  Missouri  River  are 
now,  May  1,  1871,  $1.84  per  hundred. 

First  class  includes  household  goods  well  boxed ; 
and  on  some  roads,  second  had  furniture,  well  boxed, 
accompanied  by  passengers,  but  most  railways 
charge  double  first  class  rates  on  these  articles, 
except  by  special  contract.  Agricultural  implements, 
by  special  contract,  and  farm  wagons  in  pieces,  are 
first  class.  Also,  dry  goods,  boots  and  shoes  and 
general  merchandise.  Classified  lists  showing  in  what 
class  any  particular  article  will  be  rated,  can  be  seen 
upon  application  to  any  railroad,  or  freight  express 
agent.  There  are  many  articles,  especially  in  the 
fourth  class,  upon  which  special  rates  can  be  obtained 
by  shipping  full  car  loads.  Immigrants  to  Kansas  are 
also  enabled  to  make  contracts  for  greatly  reduced 
rates  per  hundred  on  their  household  goods,  furni- 
ture, farming  implements,  farm  stock,  etc. 

Messrs.  Eidenour  &  Baker  estimate  that  the  rates 
of  freight  of  the  same  class  going  east  are  about 
one-third  less  than  they  are  coming  west.  Wool, 
sacked,  is  classed  by  all  roads  between  here  and  the 
eastern  cities,  at  one-and-a-half  times  first  class  rates. 
At  the  present  rate  of  $1.84  cents  per  hundred  from 
New  York,  freight  on  wool  would  be  $2.96  per  hun- 
dred. Deduct  one-third  for  eastern  bound  freight, 
and  it  leaves  $1.98  per  hundred.  In  shipping  by  the 
car  load,  less  rates  can  be  obtained.  But  it  is  safe  to 
calculate  that  the  wool  grower  not  only  raises  his 
fleeces  at  the  trifling  cost  already  described,  but  he 
can  then  ship  them  to  New  York  or  Boston  for  two  cents 
per  pound.  How  can  eastern  wool  growers  compete 
with  these  advantages  ? 


264  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

WHEN   TO    COME   TO   KANSAS: 

There  are  many  evident  reasons  why  it  is  better 
to  come  to  Kansas  now,  than  to  come  a  few  years 
hence.  The  census  of  1880  will  show  the  prediction 
of  Horace  Greeley  to  be  true,  "  that  ten  years  will 
give  to  Kansas  a  population  of  one  million  of  inhabi- 
tants." The  increase  of  the  last  five  years  has  been 
at  a  much  higher  proportional  rate  than  this,  and 
emigration  is  likely  to  increase  rather  than  diminish. 
It  needs  no  argument  to  show  that  it  is  better  to  be 
in  advance  of,  rather  than  than  to  follow,  this  tide  of 
human  beings.  In  a  few  years  the  railroads  will  all 
be  built;  the  towns  established;  the  water  powers 
improved,  and  high  prices  for  land  and  lots  will  pre- 
vail. Lands  which  can  now  be  brought  for  five 
or  ten  dollars  per  acre,  or  taken  as  homesteads,  will 
then  be  worth  thirty  to  one  hundred  dollars  per  acre. 
Mill  seats  with  good  water  power  can  now  be  had 
without  expense,  by  those  who  will  improve  them. 
Coal  mines  that  are  to  yield  enormous  profits  may 
now  be  purchased  at  a  nominal  cost,  and  land  can 
be  bought  for  a  song,  upon  which  busy  villages  and 
towns  are  speedily  to  be  established. 

One  takes  a  sleeping  car  in  New  York  and  reaches 
Kansas  in  three  days  fresh,  vigorous  and  ready  for 
business.  He  finds  towns  already  established  with 
as  good  churches,  schools  and  society  as  in  any 
eastern  town,  but  which  are  soon  to  double  or  treble 
their  population.  If  he  prefers  fresher  fields  for 
enterprise,  or  cheap  lands  for  tillage,  the  railroads 
will  take  him  in  a  few  hours  where  he  can  purchase 
at  low  rates  and  on  long  credit — or,  by  continuing 
his  travels  a  day's  journey  from  the  depot  he  can 
find  free  Homesteads  and  "  Land  for  the  Landless." 

Nor  is  this  all.  It  is  quite  unnecessary  to  take 
risks  in  founding  towns,  and  making  valuable  im- 
provements. Town  building  has  come  to  be  a  legiti- 


HOW   TO   COME   10   KANSAS.  265 

timate  and  important  part  of  railroading  in  the 
west,  it  is  quite  useless  for  private  companies  to 
attempt  to  rival  railroads  in  this  line,  and  so  town 
building  is  no  longer  a  doubtful  and  dubious  business. 
The  railroad  system  is  now  so  well  established  in 
this  state  that  it  is  not  difficult  to  tell  about  where 
the  lines  will  run,  and  to  select  localities  where  good 
towns  will  find  support,  but  where  there  are  now 
limited  improvements  and  low  prices.  So  also,  to 
one  who  seeks  a  farm  in  the  interior,  there  is  not 
the  uncertainty  as  to  the  future  which  prevailed  a 
few  years  ago.  It  is  now  settled  that  every  county 
must  have,  and  soon  will  have,  one  or  more  railr.oads 
within  its  boundaries.  As  the  counties  are  about 
twenty-four  miles  square,  it  follows  that  every  farmer 
will  soon  be  so  near  u,  depot,  that  he  can  drive  to  it 
and  back  again  in  one  day. 

HOW   TO    COME   TO    KANSAS. 

Having  determined  to  come  to  Kansas,  the  first 
necessity  is  to  sell  out  where  you  now  are.  In  this 
you  will  probably  find  trouble  at  once.  You  have  put 
a  certain  price  upon  your  property  and  say  you  must 
have  it,  but  there  are  many  others  ^ho  want  "to  go 
out  west,"  and  there  is  much  property  on  the  market. 

First  you  must  determine  the  question  absolutely, 
do  you  want  to  go  west?  Having  decided  that  you 
would  on  the  whole  prefer  the  west,  sell  out  for  just 
what  your  ^property  will  bring.  Have  no  fear  that 
you  will  loose  anything  by  selling  at  a  low  price, 
because  the  purchase  you  make  in  Kansas  is  certain 
to  compensate  you  for  such  losses  in  a  short  time. 
Besides,  if  you  are  a  farmer,  you  can  carry  on  that 
business  with  such  profits  in  Kansas,  that  you  ought 
not  to  be  detained  a  single  month  by  the  low  price 
at  which  you  must  sell.  While  you  are  hesitating 
there,  land  is  doubling  in  value  here.  Do  not  doubt 
12 


266 

that  people  eat  and  drink — sleep  and  wake — live  aud 
die — in  Kansas  very  much  as  they  do  elsewhere. 
Have  no  fear  but  that  you  will  find  a  plenty  of  people 
here  who  are  much  like  those  you  leave  behind. 
Make  up  your  mind  for  hardships  and  privations — 
for  sickness  and  sorrow — because  these  are  insepara- 
ble from  humanity.  Finally,  remembering  that  home 
is  as  sweet  and  that  heaven  is  as  near,  in  Kansas  as 
in  any  other  country,  with  a  stout  heart  prepare  for 
your  journey. 

WHAT    TO    BRING. 

It  is  not  difficult  to  determine  what  to  bring  with 
you  in  coming  to  Kansas.  First  ascertain  how  much 
money  you  can  get  for  various  household  articles. 
Then  by  learning  the  weight,  you  can,  with  the  help 
of  the  chapter  on  freights  in  this  book,  determine 
what  it  will  cost  to  bring  each  article  to  Kansas. 
With  the  assistance  of  the  subjoined  list  of  prices, 
you  can  then  readily  determine  what  articles  to 
bring.  Generally  speaking,  you  will  bring  all  bed- 
ding, table  linen  and  carpets,  and  in  these  carefully 
wrap,  separately,  crockery  and  table  furnishings, 
because  they  will,  not  sell  for  much  at  auction.  There 
are  numerous  but  indescribable  articles  for  use  and 
ornament,  which  cannot  be  sold  at  any  price,  and 
hardly  given  away,  yet  they  will  help  to  make  things 
comfortable  and  cozy,  aud  you  will  probably  be  sorry 
if  you  leave  them.  In  such  cases  the  test  is  simply: 
"This  article  weighs  so  much,  and  it  will  cost  so  much 
to  take  it  to  Kansas ;  will  it  be  worth  as  much  when 
I  get  it  there?"  In  this  council  the  ladies  should 
have  a  decisive  vote,  for  upon  them  will  devolve  the 
greatest  privations  in  "going  West."  Bring  high 
priced  furniture  if  you  have  any,  and  expect  to  want 
any  here,  but  the  less  the  better,  unless  you  can  reach 
Kansas  with  your  pockets  full  of  greenbacks.  Com- 


WHAT   TO   BRING.  267 

mon  furniture,  mirrors  and  agricultual  implements 
you  will  sell.  It  does  not  pay  to  bring  any  but  good 
stock  to  Kansas,  unless  it  be  sheep,  and  that  matter 
is  treated  under  its  appropriate  head. 

One  of  the  best  things  "  to  take"  is  a  lunch  basket 
filled  with  roast  chicken,  sandwiches,  bread  and  but- 
ter, pickles,  or  a  tumbler  of  tart  jelly,  a  Washington 
pie,  etc.  For  a  small  sum  you  can  buy  a  lamp-heat- 
ing tea-pot  or  "  ^Etna,"  thus  making  yourself  quite 
comfortable  wherever  you  are.  Three  meals  a  day 
can  be  obtained  on  all  principal  routes,  for  seventy- 
five  cents  per  meal.  If  you  start  for  the  table  as 
soon  as  the  cars  stop,  and  when  there,  without  being 
boisterous,  make  yourself  entirely  at  home,  there  is 
always  a  plenty  of  time.  Take  a  sleeping  car.  It 
pays,  no  matter  what  penurious  people  say.  These 
cars  are  clean,  ride  easier  than  other  cars ;  are  better 
ventilated  and  the  company  is  more  select.  By  this 
means  you  arrive  at  your  journey's  end  vigorous  and 
clear  headed,  and  ready  to  see  things  just  as  they  are. 
The  cost  is  one  dollar  and  fifty  cents  to  two  dollars 
per  night,  for  double  birth.  Leave  out  a  plenty  of 
extra  clothing,  and  prepare  for  the  necessary  expos- 
ures of  travel. 

The  following  are  the  prices  for  the  cheapest  furni- 
ture at  Ottawa,  Kansas,  which  shows  about  the  aver- 
age prices  for  the  State : 


Bedsteads $4  00@  4  50 

Tables,  fall  leaf. 5  00 

Tables,  extension,  ^  foot.  1  75 

Chairs,  ft  ^  dozen 4  50@  5  00 

Tin  safes,   3  shelves   and 

drawer 7  00 

Bureaus,  full  size 15  00@18  00 

Bureau  washstand 8  00 

Washstands 4  00 

Mattresses,  husk 5  00 

Mattresses,  moss 10  00@12  00 

Rockers,  arm 4  00 

Rockers,  cane  seat 4  50 

Rjckers,  sewing 1  50@  2  50 


Cribs 4  00 

Wardrobes,  black  walnut.15  oO@18  00 

Lounges 3  50 

Lounges  with  mattress 6  50 

Cook  stove  No.7,complete20  00 
Cook  stove,  Charter  Oak, 

complete 27  00 

Cook  stove,  Concord,  com- 
plete  27  00 

Hf-atinK  stoves $6  00@10  90 

Stove  pipe  fy  joint 30 

Sad  irons  $  ft 08 

Milk  pans  each 25 

Fruit  cans,  q'tsf*  dozen...  1  00 


Toilet  sets,  giates,  mantels,  table  cutlery,  and  house  furnishing  good*  at 
eastern  prices. 


268 


HUTCHINSON'S   KANSAS. 


AGRICULTURAL  IMPLEMENTS. 


Plows,    12    inch    Moline 

Breaker,  rolling  cutter, 

guage  wheel,  two  shares30  00 
Plows,  stirring,  German 

steel 14  00 

Plows,  stirring,  caststeel, 

double  shin 18  00 

Nearly  all  plows  scour  in  this  soil. 

The  above  prices  are  only  ten  dollars 

.  Wagons,  two  horse.with 

brake,  top  box ,  neck 

yoke,  stay  chains  and 

whiffletrees $95  00@100  00 

Pitchforks,  3  tines 75@        90 

Shovels,  Ames'  caststeel    1  75 

Hoes 50@        75 

Hardware,  putty,  etc.,  as  cheap  as  in 


Plows,  Robinson's  Gang 
and  Trench 100  00 

Corn  planters,  best  two 
horse 70  00@75  00 

Mowing  machines 130  00 

Combined  mowing  and 
reaping  machines 175  00  200  00 

above  factory  prices  for  freight. 

Harrow  teeth  $  ft 07@        08 

Axes,  best 1  50 

Grindstones  f>,  ft 03 

Nails  ft  keg,  lOd 5  50 

Saws,  cross-cut  ^  foot...        75 

Well  buckets,  each 75 

Horse  shoes,  "$  keg 7  00 

Illinois  or  Ohio. 


PINE  LUMBER. 


Flooring  $M $37'50@$50  00 


Siding  ^M 

Ceiling  $  M 

Shingles  &  M 

Finishing  inch  ^  M 

Framing  staff  $  M  


00 

27  50@  30  00 
4  00®  5  50 
40  00@  50  00 
36 


Common      boards     and 

fencing^  M 32  50@  35  00 

Lath  ft  M 6  50 

Windows  (glazed)  8x10..    1  75 

Doors,  4  panel 2  00®    3  00 

Paper  (building)  ft  ft... 


MECHANICS  WAGES. 


B«5t      hammer 

range  ft  foot,  laid  in  wall  30 
Brick  work  ft  M,  laid  in 

wall  16  00 

Fine  cutting  ft  squa.ie  foot  1  00 
Plasterers  ft  square  yard, 

3  coats  and  lath 40 


Carpenters  ft  day $2  50@$3  50 

Boss  car  pouters  ft  day 4  00 

Painters  ft  square  1st  coat  15 
Per  square  additional  coat  10 
Masons  common  s  one 

work  ft  fc  ot,  laid  in  wall      16 
Best  rubik   •    toot,  laid  in 

wall ". 20 

Farm  laborers  command  $25  per  month  and  board. 

Work  horses  cost  $75  to  $150  each.    A  yoke  of  oxen  can  be  obtained  for  $125 
to  $150,  and  good  milch  cows  are  worth  $35  to  $60  each. 

THE   COST    OF   LIVING. 

If  one  brings  a  family  to  Kansas  intending  to  live 
upon  a  salary,  hiring  a  house  and  buying  at  retail,. 
he  will  not  be  likely  to  save  more  than  he  would 
upon  the  same  salary  in  the  East,  provided  he  lives 
in  the  same  style.  Of  course  the  matter  of  style  is 
what  costs  in  all  families  and  ruins  [many,  but  the 
apparent  necessity  for  keeping  up  with  our  friends 
and  neighbors,  is  not  so  pressing  here  as  in  old  com- 
munities. In  this  therefore,  there  can  be  a  saving. 
The  item  of  rent  is  a  heavy  one  here.  The  uses  to 


THE   COST   OF  LIVING. 


269 


which  money  may  be  put  are  so  various  and  so  profit- 
able, that  'people  who  build  houses  receive  large 
returns  for  their  investments.  For  instance,  a  neat 
house  with  a  cellar,  three  or  four  rooms  on  the  first 
floor  and  two  chambers  above,  with  a  garden  of  a 
quarter  or  a  half  acre,  will  rent  for  from  $20  to  $30 
er  month.  Cottages  with  two  or  three  rooms  rent 
or  $12  to  $15  per  month.  Eents  are  payable  monthly 
in  advance.  Few  people  rent  for  any  considerable 
period.  They  soon  "run  up  a  smoke  of  their  own," 
if  it  is  but  a  humble  domicil.  He  who  lives  in  his 
own  house,  and  buys  when  articles  are  plentiful  and 
cheap,  can  live  cheaper  here  than  he  can  in  the  East, 
as  the  tables  given  below  will  testify: 

BETAIL. 


3  TO 
50 


@  1  00 


®  1  00 


The  foregoing  table  was  prepared  for  this  book  in 
January,  1871,  by  my  friends  Messrs.  Eidenour  & 
Baker,  long  established  and  favorably  known  grocery 


Flour,  $  cwt  $2 
Flour,  graham,  ^cwt  3 

M 
JO 

@$4  00 
§4  00 

Rice,  (Carolina)  $  ft 
Salt^  bbl  3 

VI} 
EH) 

Corn  rueal  ^  cwt  1 
Potatoes  ^  bushel... 

40 
BO 

1  ) 

1  50 
@      60 
@      20 

Vinegar,  ^  gallon... 
Dried  apples  ^  ft  
Dried  peaches  ^  ^  ,. 

:j,o 
in 

u 

Bacon  ^  ft  

1  | 

Raisins  ^  ft 

80 

Shoulders  $  ft  
Pork  pickled  

in 
18 

@      12  3 
@      15 

Prunes  ^  ft  
Currants  ^  ft 

18 

is 

Beef,  dried  $  ft  
Mackerel  ~$  kit  1 
White  fish  <$  kit  1 
Codfish  <$  ft  
Halibut  ^  ft 

90 

til 
96 

$ 

@      22 
@  4  25 
@  2  00 

i 

Blackberries  f*  ft  
Cherries,  pitted  
Raspberries  ^  ft  
Corn  ^bushel  
Oats  $B  bushel 

1^ 
BO 

on 

t& 

10 

Cheese,  N.  Y.  factory 

•'ii 

§22 

Coal  oil  $  gallon.... 

M 
26 

Cheese,  Kansas,  *$  ft 
Butter  ^  ft  

l1^ 
•"'•"i 

20 
§35 

Tobacco,  best  Navy 

90 

Eggs  ^  dox 

]t 

20 

Tobacco  G  I   %  ft 

|Q 

Beajis,    Med.    Navy 

06 

J06 

Tobacco,      smoking 

•-•-, 

Sugar,  N.  0  ,  ^  ft  
Sugar,  Coffee,  $  ft... 
Sugar,  hard,  ^  ft  
Coffee.choiceRio^ft 
Coffee,  fair,  $  ft  
Coffee,  Java,  0.  G  
Molasses,    Sorghum, 
^  gallon  

!•>> 
16 
163 
28 

80 
jrg 

15 

§25 
22 

@      80 

TU-JS,  No.  1,  each  1 
Tubs,  No.  2,  each  1 
Tubs,  No.  3,  each  1 
Washboards,  zinc,  ea 
Buckets,  2  hoops,  ea 
Buckets,  3  hoops,  ea 
Beefsteak  $  ft  

88 
10 

oo 

30 

•25 
.".<  ' 

!•> 

Molasses,  N.  0.  $>  gal 
Syrup,  $  gallon  
Teas,  ®  ft  

Ou 

60 
DO 

@  1  10 
@  1  40 
(Si  2  00 

Pork  steaks^  ft  
Veal  Steaks  $  ft  

270  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

merchants  of  Lawrence.  They  also  have  large  branch 
houses  at  Topeka,  Emporia  and  Tioga,  all  under  the 
firm  name  either  of  Eidenour  or  of  Baker,  and  these 
figures  may  therefore  be  relied  upon  as  representing 
the  average  retail  prices  in  this  state  at  the  time  they 
were  made. 

HORSES. 

The  breeding  of  fine  horses  has  come  to  be  so  important  an  interest  in  Kan- 
sas, that  I  desired  to  treat  the  subject  in  a  considerate  manner,  and  therefore 
applied  to  various  "  horse  men  "  for  such  data  as  was  needful,  but  have  received 
very  little  assistance  in  this  direction. 

Through  Mr.  B.  F.  Akers,  of  Leavenworth,  I  learn  that  there  are  more  than 
sixty  thoroughbred  horses  and  mares  in  this  state,  and  among  the  iormer  he 
quoted  from  memory  the  names  of  "Newry,"  " Chicamauga,"  "Veto," 
"Express,"  "  Leinster,"  "General  Mitckell,"  "Derby,"  "Orlando,"  "Prairie 
Boy,"  "  Blondin,"  "  Escape,"  etc. 

Among  the  dealers  and  breeders  who  have  contributed  most  largely  to  the 
horse  stock  of  the  state  by  valuable  importations  of  thoroughbred  and  trotting 
horses  and  mares,  are  Mr.  B.  F.  Akers,  Col.  C.  R.  Jennison,  H.  D.  Bunch » 
Steiner  &  Tough,  and  F.  C.  Buckley,  all  of  Leavenworth ;  Dr.  W.  L.  Challis,  of 
Atchison;  Mr.  G.  W.  Greaver,  of  Wyandotte  ;  A.M.  Eastman,  of  Topeka,  who 
bred  "  Henry,"  a  famous  trotting  horse  which  has  been  taken  East,  and  lately 
tretted  a  mile  in  2:22^,  on  Flatwood  Course,  N.  Y.;  Mr.  Conn,  of  Council 
Grove ;  J.  Reynolds,]of  Howard  county ;  a  gentleman  who  has  recently  brought 
several  fine  horses  from  Kentucky  to  Wyandotte  coutty ;  and  many  others, 
also  have  horses  of  great  value.  Th«  moneyed  value  to  the  state,  of  these 
efforts  to  establish  the  reputation  of  Kansas  for  thoroughbred  and  trotting 
horses,  is  probably  not  fully  appreciated  by  the  most  of  us,  and  the  writer 
confesses  to  a  very  moderate  degree  of  enthusiasm  upon  the  subject.  Whether  a 
horse  trots  a  mile  in  2:29%  or  2:30,  seems  a  matter  not  of  very  great  importance 
to  the  world,  and  if  he  will  carry  me  safely  sixty  miles  a  day,  I  am  not  par- 
ticular as  to  his  pedigree.  But  this  is  not  the  way  horse  fanciers  regard  these 
questions,  and  speed  and  blood  command  fabulous  sums  in  the  market.  Farm- 
ers and  breeders  raise  horses  for  the  money  there  is  in  them,  and  there  is 
certainly  a  great  deal  of  money  in  the  business  of  raising  fine  horses.  In  this 
regard  the  reputation  of  a  state  is  of  great  importance.  A  Vermont  horse  will 
command  a  better  price,  with  most  buyers,  than  one  of  equal  value  from 
Maine,  because  of  the  reputation  gained  by  the  former  state  in  this  direction, 
and  if  any  Western  man  wants  a  thoroughbred,  he  goes  to  Kentucky  for  it. 
The  breeders  in  our  state  are  confident  that  Kansas  will  soon  have  an  enduring 
reputation  for  its  fine  horse  stock.  There  are  many  young  horses  in  this  state 
which  will  soon  be  upon  the  market.  Mr.  Akers,  above  alluded  to,  introduced 


271 

to  the  Eastern  public  three  noted  trotters,  bred  in  this  state,  which  be  named 
"Kansas  Chief,"  "  Kansss  Queen,"  aud  "Kansas  Pet,"  and  after  a  eerie*  of 
successes  with  them  upon  various  cowreep,  he  disposed  of  them  for  the  handsome 
•urn  of  fifteen  thousand  dollars.  The  same  gentleman  aleo  brought  to  the  state 
the  trotting  stallion  "  Comas,"  of  which  a  cut  is  given  herewith. 

In  this  connection  it  gives  me  pleasure  to  state  that  the  well  known  Amaca 
Sprague  of  Provide:  ce,  Rhode  Island,  will  soon  open  a  large  farm  in  this  State* 
to  be  devoted  principally  to  the  breeding  of  fine  horses  and  rattle.  He  is 
already  the  owner  of  eome  of  the  best  stock  in  New  Fngland,  which  will  be 
immediately  removed  to  this  sta'e  to  a  farm  punhased  near  Leavenworth  for 
this  purpose.  Mr.  Akers  !s  associated  with  Mr.  Sprague  in  this  enterprise,  and 
it  is  their  purpose  to  fit  up  a  farm  of  about  40,000  acres  in  the  interior  of  the 
state,  seed  it  to  blue  gracs,  divide  it  into  suitable  fields  by  oeage  hedges,  erect 
substantial  and  commodious  buildings,  and  put  uj  on  the  place  » he  beft  stock 
that  can  be  procured.  The  enormous  wealth,  enterprising  spirit  and  bu-iness 
sagacity  of  Mr.  Sprague,  combined  with  the  thorough  practical  knowledge 
possessed  by  Mr.  Akers,  who  has  acquired  a  competency  in  this  business  in 
Kansas,  renders  the  brilliant  success  of  this  scheme  a  foregone  conclusion.  In 
five  year's  time  these  gentlemen  will  have  the  best  stock  farm  in  the  world. 

"  COMAS." 

This  well  known  trotting  stallion  was  brr.ught  to  Knnsas  by  B.  P.  Akers 
being  selected  after  a  visit  to  the  best  breedk  g  studs  in  the  country.  He  was 
foaled  in  1863,  and  was  bred  in  Iowa.  Like  "Kirkwood"  and  "Bashaw,  jr.," 
he  was  got  by  Green's  Bashaw,  dam  Topeey,  by  Prophet,  by  Hill's  Termont 
Black  Hawk,  by  Sherman  Morgan,  by  Justin  Morgan,  by  True  Britton. 

Green's  Bashaw,  by  Drake's  (Vernol's)  Black  Hawk,  1-st  dam  by  Webber's 
Tom  Thumb  ;  2d  dam,  "  The  Chas.  Kent  Mare,"  (dam  of  RT  sdyk's  Hamble- 
tonian,  sire  of  Dexter,)  by  imported  Bellfounder;  3d  dam,  "Old  One  Eye,"  by 
Bambletonian,  (son  of  imported  Messenger ;  ith  dam,  by  imported  Messenger. 

Dra Arc's  (Vernors)  Black  Hawk,  by  New  York  Black  Hawk;  dam  by  Ken- 
tucky Whip,  son  of  Cook's,  or  Blackburn's,  Whip. 

New  York  Black  Hawk,  by  Andrew  Jackson,  dam  the  celebrated  Sally 
Miller,  by  Mambrino,  by  imp.  Messenger 

Andrew    Jacksvn,   by    Young    Bashaw,  dam    by    Whynot,    son    of  imp. 


Young  Bashaw,  by  imp.  Barb  Grand  Bashaw,  dam  by  imp.  Messenger. 
Mr.  Otto  Holstein,  correspondent  of  the  Field,  Turf  and  Farm,  in  desciibing 
this  horse,  says,  after  giving  his  pedigree :  "  Here  is  blood  enough  on  his 
sire's  side  to  insure  trotting  qualities  in  his  progeny.  But  this  is  not  all. 
While  the  paternal  house  furnished  to  the  trotting  world  '  Dexter,' '  Lady 
Thorn,'  'Goldsmith  Maid,'  'American  Girl,'  'George  M.  Patchen,'  Ac.,  toe 
maternal  side  has  scarcely  been  a  whit  behind,  for,  from  it,  sprang  the  cele- 
brated 'Lanctt'  and  the  wonderful  'Ethan  A  lien,' the  sire  of  'Honest  Allen,' 


HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 


Pocahoutas,  &c.  Comas  is,  therefore,  oce  of  the  best  bred  trotting  stallions  in 
America,  being  a  combination  of  the  two  most  successful  trotting  families  in 
the  United  State-,  the  Bashaw  and  th?  Messenger,  with  the  additional  excel- 
lence of  the  Black  Hawk. 

"  His  general  excellence  of  color  is  that  he  is  a  rich  chestnut,  and  of  form  is 
that  be  is  a  ponj -built  horse,  Pfteen  hands  and  two  inches  high,  revealing  the 
great  speed,  elastic  step  and  wonderful  endurance  for  which  the  family  is  SD 
noted.  His  carriage  is  lofty,  consequently  his  head  and  neck  are  well  set  upon 
his  shoulders.  His  back  is  apparently  short,  owing,  measurably,  to  the  strong 
arches  of  muscle  over  the  loin,  so  necessary  for  enduring  strength  in  the 
trotter.  His  legs  are  clean  and  flat,  kis  wither?  and  shoulders  inclined,  chest 
leep,  and  capacious  enough  for  excellent  respiratory  action,  main  and  tail  fine 


"  COMAS." 

(The  property  of  B.  F.  Akers,  Leaveuworth.) 

and  Ion2,  his  eyes  are  good,  as  also  are  his  joints  and  feet,  the  great  and  neces- 
sary adjuncts  to  a  successful  stock  horse.  Comas,  comparatively  speaking,  has 
been  brea  with  more  than  an  ordinary  degree  of  care,  and  a  foundation  has 
been  formed  for  future  excel  eiice,  which  is  now  fully  substantiated  by  the 
appearance  and  wonderful  trotting  action  displayed  by  his  produce." 


"KANSAS   BOY." 


273 


"KANSAS  BOY-" 
[The  property  of  B.  F.  Akers,  Leavenworth.] 

I  am  indebted  to  Mr.  Otto  Holstein  for  the  following  description  of  this 
horse.  "The  stable  companion  of  Comas  is  his  son, 'Kansas  Boy.'  This  fast 
and  fashionable  bred  three  year  old  stallion  is  a  blood  bay,  fifteen  hands  and 
three  inches  high,  was  sired  by  Comas,  dam  by  Gauglion  Gangle,  son  of  Ber- 
trand,  sou  of  Sir  Archy,  son  of  imported  Diomed.  Large  as  he  is  there  is  no 
waste  timber  in  his  make  up,  but  is  well  and  compactly  built,  not  leggy } 
possessed  of  a  gamey  head,  rangy  neck,  splendid  shoulders,  deep,  roomy  girth, 
well  ribbed  on  the  barrel,  with  grand  quarters  like  his  sire,  a  set  of  legs  as 
hard  and  clean  as  polished  ivory.  An  analysis  of  his  breeding  is  conclusive  as 
to  his  future  worth.  Through  his  dam  he  traces  back  to  the  stoutest  and  most 
fashionable  blood  known  to  the  American  racing  turf,  as  well  as  throwing  his 
descent  down  the  line  of  r.the  winning  trotting  blood  to  '  Andrew  Jackson,' 
who,  in  the  characteristic  words  of  the  late  Hiram  Woodruff,  was  '  Rough  to 
look  at,  but  king  of  trotters.'  Kansas  Boy,  will  in  all  probability  not  be  offered 
to  public  patronage  until  his  trotting  abilities  are  thoroughly  developed.  He 
has  been  in  training  but  a  short  time,  and  with  Comas  can  trot  close  to  '40  to 
pole." 


274 


HTTTCHINSON  3    KANSAS. 


"NEWRY." 

(The  property  of  Dr.  W.  L.  Challis,  Atchieon.) 

As  among  the  most  noted  of  thoroughbreds  in  Kansas,  we  present  herewith 
a  cut  of  the  spltndid  stallion  "Newry."  He  is  a  bay  horse,  foaled  186-i,  bred 
by  the  late  Robt.  A.  Alexander,  of  Kentucky,  from  whom  he  was  purchased  by 
Ool.  C.  R.  Jennison,  and  by  him  sold  to  Dr.  W.  L.  Challiss,  of  Atchison.  He 
was  got  by  the  illustrious  race  horse  and  stallion,  LEXINGTON,  dam  Novice,  (dam 
of  Norfolk,)  by  imported  Glencoe ;  thence  through  seven  uncontaminated 
crosses  of  pure  blood.  His  produce  give  ample  evidence  of  a  brilliant  future 
for  him.  Upon  the  race  course,  he  defeated  the  fast  "Fanny  Cheatham,'"  both 
in  their  two  year  old  form,  a  first  mile  of  a  heat  race,  in  1:46%.  The  celebrated 
"  Norfolk,"  his  full  brother,  in  a  race  of  three  mile  heats,  defeated  "  Lodi "  in 
the  unprecedented  time  of  5:27%-5:29}^,  both  heats  standing  out  in  bold  relief 
against  the  world. 


DESCRIPTION  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


State  Capitol,  Topeka. — Frontispiece. 

The  east  wing  of  the  elegant  design  made  for  the  capitol  of  Kansas  is  com- 
pleted, excepting  the  pillars  and  portico.  This  wing  is  114  feet  long,  78  feet 
wide,  and  95  feet  high  to  the  apex  of  the  roof.  It  is  divided  into  three  stories, 
with  basement  under  ground  for  steam  heating  apparatus,  fuel,  etc.  The 
upper  story  is  divided  into  two  legislative  halls,  with  committee  rooms,  while 
the  two  lower  stories  are  divided  into  conveniet-t  offices  for  the  use  of  the 
Executive  and  Judiciary  Departments  cf  the  State  Government.  The  exterior 
walls  are  four  feet  thick,  and  are  constructed  of  Junction  City  magnesian  lime- 
atone.  The  building  is  of  the  corinthiau  style  of  architecture.  The  partition 
walls  are  of  limes'one,  with  brick  arches,  upon  which  rest  heavy  wrought  iron 
beams  and  joist.  The  iron  suspension  roof  is  covered  with  tin.  The  expense 
of  the  building  thus  far,  has  been  about  $375,000,  and  with  the  completion  of 
the  portico  and  some  minor  additions,  it  will  answer  all  needful  purposes  for 
many  years.  Mr.  J.  G.  Haskell,  of  Lawrence,  is  the  architect.  It  is  impossi- 
ble that  in  all  respects  this  wing  can  give  entire  satisfaction  as  a  capitol  build- 
Ing,  but  it  is  a  thoroughly  built,  substantial  and  elegant  structure,  and  a 
credit  to  the  State. 

It  stands  upon  twenty  acres  of  ground,  donated  by  the  city  of  Topeka  to  the 
State,  near  the  business  part  of  the  place.  These  grounds  are  now  being  laid 
out,  and  preparations  are  making  to  ornament  them  with  trees  and  shrubery. 

Old  University  Building,  Lawrence. — Page  11. 

This  building  is  50  feet  square  and  two  stories  with  high  basement.  It  was 
erected  by  the  people  of  Lawrence,  and  by  the  contributions  of  friends  in  the 
East.  It  stands  upon  an  eminennce  overlooking  the  city,  and  is  built  in  a 
substantial  manner  of  stone  and  brick, 

State  University,  Lawrence. — Page  16. 

This  cut  is  an  accurate  representation  of  the  new  University  Building.  It 
is  246  feet  lor  g,  98  feet  wide  in  the  middle,  63  feet  wide  in  the  wings,  and  95 
feet  high  to  the  observatory  balcony.  Its  chapel  hall,  in  the  centre  of  the 
building,  is  94  feet  long,  56  feet  wide  and  35  feet  high.  The  building  contains 


276  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

more  than  50  rooms  for  the  various  branches  of  instruction.  For  all  the  Phy- 
sical Sciences,  the  rooms  are  arranged  in  suits  of  four  rooms  each,  as  follows 
Lecture  Room  23x45  feet,  1st  Labratory  19x52  feet,  2d  Labratory  21x45  feet, 
Library  and  Aparatus  Room  10x35  feet,  Professor's  Room  11x13  feet.  The 
building  throughout  is  built  of  limestone,  and  the  water  table,  corner  stones, 
window  arches  and  sills,  etc.,  are  of  magnesiau  limestone  from  Manhattan. 
The  shade  of  the  latter  contrasts  gratefully  with  the  limestone,  which  is  taken 
from  the  edge  of  Mount  Oread,  upon  which  the  building  is  situated.  The 
interior  is  now  being  finished,  and  when  completed  it  will  be  heated  with 
steam,  ventilated  by  the  most  approved  method,  and  supplied  throughout  with 
water  and  gas,  and  in  all  respects  will  be  one  of  the  best  arranged  University 
buildings  in  the  land.  The  entire  cost  will  be  about  $150,000,  and  I  venture  to 
say  that  it  is  one  of  the  largest  and  best  public  buildings  ever  erected  in  the 
United  States  for  that  amount.  Mr.  J.  G.  Haskell  is  the  architect. 

The  educational  work  of  the  institution  was  commenced  September,  1866. 
The  President  and  Chancellor  is  Gen.  John  Frasser,  L.  L.  D.,  assisted  by  a  corps 
of  eight  accomplished  professors.  The  University  is  a  child  of  the  State  and 
crowns  the  public  school  system  of  Kansas.  Forty  thousand  acres  of  land  has 
been  set  apart  by  the  State  for  its  endowment,  and  annual  appropriations  are 
made  for  tuition,  as  all  State  pupils  are  admitted  free  of  tuition  charges.  Its 
scientific  ap  iratus  is  extensive  and  valuable,  and  altogether  it  is  one  of  the 
most  promising  educational  institutions  in  the  United  States. 

John  Brown's  Cabin.    Page  20. 

A  description  of  this  Cabin  follows  the  cut. 

Humboldt  Bridge.    Page  25. 

This  structure  of  190  feet  span,  crosses  the  Neosho  river  at  the  narrowest 
place  occurring  within  a  distance  of  many  miles.  It  connects  the  principal 
portion  of  HumboMt,  which  is  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  with  that  portion 
around  the  Missouri,  Kansas  and  Texas  Railroad  Depot  on  the  west  side. 

Adams  House,  Manhattan.    Page  31. 

This  Hotel  was  erected  and  is  owned  by  Maj.  N.  A.  Adams  of  Manhattan.  It 
contains  large,  airy  rooms,  and  is  a  well  kept  house  and  an  ornament  to  the 
place.  It  is  constructed  of  magnesian  limestone  at  a  cost  of  about  $30,000. 

^      Topeka  Iron  Bridge.    Page  36. 

For  a  complete  description  see  page  217.  The  view  is  taken  from  the  north 
side  of  the  river. 

Drouthy  Kansas.    Page  41. 

This  humorous  sketch  serves  to  tell  its  own  story,  although  I  have  heard 
people  protest,  with  solemn  earnestness,  that  such  a  sweet  potatoe,  watermelon 
and  Irish  potatoe,  such  corn,  pumpkins  and  wheat,  never  grew  in  Kansas. 


ILLUSTRATIONS.  277 

People  of  so  lugubrious  and  solera  a  turn  of  mind,  are  not  expected  to  look  at 
our  "Drouthy." 

The  charcoal  sketch  from  which  this  picture  was  copied,  was  dashed  off  by 
Prof.  H.  Worrall  of  Topeka.to  enliven  a  party  of  Cincinnati  tourists  who  came 
to  visit  this  dry  country,  but  were  detained  in  Topeka  several  days  on  account 
of  a  tevere  rain  storm  which  flooded  all  the  country. 

Ludington  House,  Ottawa.    Page  47. 

This  commodious  and  substantial  block  was  erected  in  Ottawa  by  D.  W.  Zim- 
merman, and  is  now  owned  by  citizens  of  Ottawa.  It  contains  in  its  farther 
portion  a  spacious  public  hall,  which  is  now  being  fitted  up  for  concerts,  exhi- 
bitions, etc.,  by  H.  F.  Sheldon.  The  well  kept  Hotel  is  situated  on  Main  street 
and  is  convenient  to  the  depot. 

The  Leavenworth  Bridge.    Page  54. 

One  of  the  most  important  works  that  has  been  undertaken  for  the  benefit 
of  the  city  of  Leavenworth,  and  the  State  of  Kansas,  is  the  great  railway-and 
highway  bridge  now  being  constructed  over  the  Missouri  River.  This  bridge 
is  intended  to  connect  the  several  railroads  centering  on  the  west  side  of  the 
river,  at  Leavenworth,  with  those  centering  on  the  opposite  side  ;  and  also  to 
facilitate  the  intercourse  between  the  metropolis  of  Kansas  and  the  rich  and 
thriving  section  Of  Missouri  adjacent  to  the  border. 

The  extreme  difficulty  of  budging  the  Missouri  Riv«r,  together  with  the 
novelty  of  the  design  adopted  here,  have  invested  this  bridge  with  peculiar 
interest,  and  its  successful  completion  will  go  far  to  revolutionize  the  method 
of  placing  foundations  in  similar  streams.  The  piers  are  each  composed  of 
three  large  cast  iron  cy  imlers,  sunk  by  the  "  pneumatic  process,"  from  fifty  to 
seventy  feet,  not  simply  resting  upon,  but  actually  penetrating  the  solid  rock  a 
distance  of  about  twelve  feet.  These  ci.lumns  are  then  filled  witn  masonry, 
and  above  water  they  are  braced  and  tied  in  a  substantial  manner,  forming  a 
great  iron  pier.  The  bridge  proper  is  composed  of  three  iron  spans,  each  340 
feet  in  length,  and  the  bottom  chord  will  be  50  feet  above  extreme  high  water. 
This  great  hight  makes  the  approaches  long  and  expensive.  The  cost  of  the 
whole  structure,  including  nearly  one  mile  of  approaches,  will  be  about  $750,- 
000,  and  this  capital  is  mainly  furnished  by  the  citizens  of  Leavenworth  county. 
The  foundations  and  approactes  are  completed,  and  it  is  expected  that  by 
November,  1871,  the  superstructure  will  be  in  place,  and  ready  for  the  passage  of 
trains. 

The  cut  herewith  given,  drawn  for  this  book  from  the  ecgneers'  working 
plans,  shows  the  bridge  as  it  will  appear  when  completed.  The  bridge  was 
designed  by  Gen.  W.  W.  Wright,  engineer  in  chief,  under  whose  supervision  it 
is  being  constructed. 


278  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

Congregational  Church,  Lawrence.     Page  61. 

The  Plymouth  Congregational  Church,  at  Lawrence,  has  been  erected  dur- 
ing the  past  two  years.  It  is  115  feet  long,  and  68  feet  wide,  in  addition  to 
which  are  the  entrance  and  stair  case  wings.  The  auditory  is  87  feet  long,  60 
feet  wide  and  30  feet  high.  It  is  furnished  with  solid  Black  Walnut  pews  and 
pulpit,  upholster  d  and  carpeted  throughout,  and  has  one  of  the  largest  and 
best  organs  in  the  west.  The  building  also  contains  a  lecture  room  20x60  feet, 
two  parlors,  each  20x22  feet,  and  a  pastor's  study,  Sunday  Scheol  Library  and 
infant  class  room,  each  13x20  feet. 

The  edifice  is  built  of  brick,  with  limestone  d»essii>g  and  is  of  the  most  sub- 
stantial character.  The  cost,  inclusive  of  foundation,  was  $45,000.  J.  G. 
Haskell,  of  Lawrence,  was  the  architect. 

Corner  Main  and  Second  Streets,  Ottawa.     Page  65. 

This  view  of  four  or  five  buildings  in  Ottawa,  is  given  to  illustrate  the  man- 
ner of  growth  in  a  new  town.  Some  of  the  cheapest  buildings  on  the  street 
are  shown,  but  the  thoroughly  constructed  stone  and  brick  bank  building,  is 
typical  of  those  which  will  soon  take  the  place  of  the  wooden  structures 
around  it,  and  the  modest  sign  of  the  "Great  Western  Hotel  de  Horse,"  is 
characteristic  of  the  genuine,  unpretentious,  and  retiring  Western  man. 

Morris  School,  Leavenworth.     Page  YO. 

This  large  public  school  building  was  erected  in  1866,  and  1867,  Mr.  E.  T. 
Carr,  of  Leavenworth,  being  the  architect.  It  is  built  of  brick  and  is  a  very 
convenient  and  imposing  structure.  It  seats  850  pupils  and  cost  about  $50,000. 
The  upper  story  is  used  by  the  State  Normal  School,  of  Leavenworth. 

Kansas  Valley  National  Bank,  Topeka.     Page  YY. 

This  beautiful  building  stands  on  the  corner  of  two  principal  streets  in 
Topeka,  and  the  Kansas  Valley  National  Bank,  occupies  the  principal  rooms  on 
the  main  floor.  The  Atchison,  Topekaand  Santa  Fe  Land  Office,  telegraph 
office  and  State  Superintendent  of  Insurance,  who  also  occupy  rooms.  The 
building  is  constructel  of  brick  and  stone,  and  cost  $27,000.  The  Bank  com- 
menced business  October  8, 1866.  Its  authorized  capital  is  $500,000,  Daniel  M. 
Adams  is  president  and  Chas.  N.  Rix,  cashier.  Its  business  has  steadily 
increased,  and  it  reports  having  annually  paid  its  stockholders  20  per  cent,  per 
annum,  besides  setting  apart  a  liberal  surplusfund. 

Street  Scene,  Humboldt.    Page  82. 

This  life-like  cut  tells  its  own  story,  without  the  necessity  for  explanatory 
remarks.  Like  all  other  cuts  in  this  book  (with  exceptions  named)  it  is  from  a 
photograph. 


ILLUSTRATIONS.  279 

New  Episcopal  Female  Seminary,  lopeka.     Page  88. 

This  elegant  structure  is  now  being  erected  of  limestone,  with  contrasting 
tnagnesian  limestone  trimmings.  It  ia  situated  upon  a  beautiful  square  of  20 
acres  presented  by  the  city  of  Topeka,  two  blocks  east  of  the  capital  square. 
The  view  given  is  from  a  perspective  plan  by  the  architect,  Mr.  J.  Q.  Haskell. 
It  will  be  completed  during  the  year  1871. 

The  building  is  100  feet  long  and  74  feet  wide.  Its  well  lighted  basement  is 
10%  feet  high  in  the  clear,  with  three  high  stories  above,  and  airy  rooms  next 
to  the  roof.  It  contains  complete  accommodations  for  boarders,  and  private 
Apartments  for  the  principal  and  his  family.  A  beautiful  studio  with  a  north 
light  will  be  a  valuable  feature,  while  the  music  rooms,  reception  rooms,  par- 
lors, dispensory,  infirmary  and  dormitories  will  be  spacious,  and  provided  with 
all  conveniences  for  ventilation  and  to  promote  health. 

The  south  wing  containing  the  gymnasium,  the  main  school  room  and  the 
chapel,  bears  the  name  of  Wolfe  Hall,  after  Mr.  John  D.  Wolfe  of  New  York, 
who  haa  very  generously  contributed  about  $20,000  to  the  institution. 

This  is  to  be,  in  all  its  appointments,  the  most  complete  girl-i  schools  this 
side  of  the  Mississippi,  and  perhaps  we  should  say  this  side  of  tin  Alleghanies 
Rev.  J.  N.  Lee,  A.  M  ,  is  principal,  and  the  school  is  under  the  supervisory  care 
of  Rt.  Rev.  Thomas  H.  Vail,  D.  D.,  Bishop  of  the  Diocese  of  Kansas,  who  is 
Pres  dent  of  the  Beard  of  Trustees  for  the  institution.  The  catalogue  for  last 
year  shows  an  attendanco  of  148  pupils,  five  pianos  in  use,  etc.,  during  which 
time  the  school  was  in  session  in  the  old  building;.  All  the  varied  advantages 
of  this  institution,  including  a  home  with  its  care  and  culture,  are  to  b« 
obtained  for  about  $300  per  annum. 

Baptist  Church,  Leavenworth.     Page  95. 

This  church  is  57x96  feet  from  outside  to  outside,  including  towers.  The 
audience  room  is  53x67  feet.  The  hight  of  walls  to  coinmencementof  roof  is  28 
feet,  and  the  hight  from  floor  to  apex  is  62  feet.  This  room  is  carpeted  and  each 
sitting  cushioned.  The  sittings,  including  gallery,  number  700.  Each  tower 
has  two  finished  rooms  entered  from  gallery.  In  the  basement  a.e  five  rooms, 
one  of  which  is  a  session  room  that  seats  300  persons.  The  church  is  built  of 
brick,  and  finished  in  the  most  thorough  and  elegant  manner.  The  entire  coat 
has  been  about  $65,000. 

Wire  Suspension  Bridge,  Ottawa.     Page  100. 

This  beautiful  structure  was  erected  in  the  year  1867  at  a  cost  of  above 
$14,000.  Its  span  is  150  feet,  and  it  rests  upon  abutments  of  rough  dressed 
limestone  each  being  founded  upon  the  rock  bottom  of  the  river  bod.  They 
are  10x20  feet  at  the  base  and  about  30  feet  high.  It  connects  the  north  and 
south  portions  of  Main  street  in  the  city  of  Ottawa,  which  here  crosses  the 
timber  skirted  Marias  'les  Cygnes. 


280 


Ottawa  University.    Page  106. 


This  building  was  erected  in  1866  of  limestone  walls  faced  with  cut  sand- 
stone, and  with  limestone  cap  si  11s,  corners,  etc.  It  is  40x65  feet  in  size,  and 
with  three  high  stories,  including  basement,  and  is  elegantly  finished.  It 
stands  upon  one  section  of  640  acres  of  choice  land,  adjacent  to  the  city  of 
Ottawa,  and  through  the  land  winds  a  small  stream  fringed  with  timber.  This 
section  is  divided  by  Osage  Orange  hedges  into  fields  of  convenient  size,  and 
adorned  with  forest,  fruit  and  ornmental  trees  and  shrubbery. 

Poole's  Building,  Lawrence.     Page  110. 

This  fine  building  is  the  property  of  Samuel  Poole,  of  Lawrence.  It  is  built 
of  brick  and  occupies  one  of  the  most  prominent  corners  on  Massachusetts 
street.  It  is  51  feet  wida  and  110  feet  long.  The  lower  story  is  used  for  busi- 
ness purposes,  and  the  upper  story  is  occupied  by  Liberty  Hall.  This  fine 
room  seats  1,000  persons,  and  is  25  feet  high.  The  walls  and  ceiling  are 
'freeccad,  and  the  stage  is  arranged  with  scenery  and  foot  lights  complete.  The 
stage  is  48x20  feet. 

Block  in  Humboldt.    Page  115. 

This  block  is  erected  of  stone  on  the  main  square  in  Humboldt,  and  is 
devoted  to  general  business  purposes. 

Public  School,  Pomona.    Page  122. 

This  commodious  and  convenient  school  house  was  erected  in  Pomona 
within  a  year  after  the  first  house  was  built  in  the  village.  It  contains  a 
graded  school,  with  a  large  attendance,  and  illustrates  the  modern  methods  by 
which  we  transform,  in  a  brief  space  of  time,  a  spot  of  open  prairie,  to  a  crowded 
town,  with  all  the  conveniences  of  modern  civilization. 

£  W.  Cor.  Second  and  Delaware  Sis.,  Leavenworth.    Page  126. 

The  elegant  four  story  building,  represented  in  this  picture,  will  be  recoguizfid 
by  Kansans  as  standing  on  one  of  the  principal  streets  in  Leavenworth.  These 
stores  are  constructed  of  brick  and  stone,  with  iron  fronts,  and  are  finished  in 
the  most  thorough  and  workmanlike  manner,  and  are  occupied  by  substantial 
and  reliable  bussness  firms. 

Universalist  Church)  Lawrence.     Page  130. 

I  take  pleasure  in  calling  attention  to  this  beautiful  little  church,  not  only 
from  its  harmonious  proportions  and  graceful  parts,  but  from  the  peculiar 
adaptation  of  the  plan  to  a  new  country. 

Everything  attempted  to  be  done  in  a  new  country,  from  the  least  to  the 
greatest,  whether  the  construction  of  a  stable  to  to  the  erection  of  a  Cathedral ; 
whether  the  laying  out  of  a  new  tows,  or  the  completion  of  a  contineotal 
railroad,  should  be  so  planned  that  it  shall  answer  the  immediate  purposes  for 


ILLUSTRATIONS.  281 

which  it  H  intended,  and  at  the  same  time  be  capable  of  expansion,  by  addition* 
which  shall  not  mar  the  unity  of  the  design. 

The  lecture  room  at  the  rear  of  the  main  portion  of  this  church,  is  22x46 
feet,  forming  a  complete  little  church  for  a  new  settlement,  capable  of  seating 
two  hundred  persons.  It  is  intered  through  the  lobby,  which  shows  in  the  cot, 
while  the  end  door  may  be  thrown  open  for  egress.  The  audience  room,  which 
can  be  added  at  any  time,  is  about  34x45  feet,  with  a  tower  12x12  feet,  and  a 
lobby  in  front.  The  larger  room  seats  300  persons,  and  the  interior  is  nicely 
finished  with  Black  Walnut  and  Hard  Pine.  This  church  is  built  of  pine, 
braced  and  tied  together  in  the  most  substantial  manner,  and  the  entire  cost 
is  within  ten  thousand  dollars.  I  think  it  would  be  a  valuable  improvement, 
so  to  construct  the  partition  between  the  rooms,  that  it  could  be  removed  at 
pleasure,  forming  one  large  audience  room  for  extra  occasions. 

Kansas  Fruit  Medals.     Pages  139-143. 

In  the  year  1869  an  appropriation  of  $500  was  made  by  the  Kansas  State 
Legislature,  to  defray  the  expenses  of  an  exhibition  of  fruit  before  the  American 
Pomological  Society,  to  convene  in  Philadelphia  during  the  same  year.  Dr. 
Wm.  M.  Housely,  George  T.  Anthony,  C.  B.  Lines  and  S.  T.  Kelsey,  were 
appointed  a  committee  by  the  Kansas  State  Horticultural  Society  to  collect 
fruits  for  the  purpose  of  this  exhibition,  They  obtai  aed  about  20  barrels  of 
apples,  pears  and  grapes,  and  proceeded  with  them  to  Philadelphia.  There 
they  found  the  American  Pomological  Society  convened  with  the  Pennsylvania 
Horticultural  Society,  and  the  exhibition  of  fruits  was  held  under  the  auspices 
of  the  latter  society.  Notwithstanding  the  large  display  of  fruits  there  made, 
and  the  extraordinary  exertions  oflpther  states  to  carry  off  the  coveted  first 
prize,  the  award  of  the  great  gold  medal  was  made  "to  the  Kansas  State  Hor- 
ticultural Society  for  a  display  of  fruits  unsurpassed  for  beauty  and  excellence." 
Such  was  the  size,  beauty  and  flavor  of  the  Kansas  fruits,  that  none  but  experts 
could  recognize  in  the  specimens,  the  varieties  which  they  were  accustomed  to 
raise  in  the  east. 

Neosho  Falls ,  Wbodson  County.     Page  148. 

This  view  of  the  valuable  water  power  on  the  Neosho  river  at  the  town  of 
Neosho  Falls  is  accurately  copied  from  the  photograph,  excepting  that  both  of 
the  long  approaches  to  the  bridge  are  constructed  of  iron,  with  arched  supports, 
which  the  artist  has  not  inserted  in  the  approach  which  is  shown.  This  water 
power  was  improved  by  Col.  N.  S.  Goss,  the  founder  of  the  flourishing  town  of 
Neosho  Falls.  The  length  of  the  dam  is  220  feet,  and  the  power  is  sufficient  to 
carry  a  large  amount  of  machinery.  Being  situated  upon  the  railroad  which 
is  penetrating  the  best  cotton  fields  in  America,  this  would  be  an  excellent  site 
for  a  cotton  factory.  The  enterprising  town  is  hidden  by  the  trees  and  river 
bank,  at  the  left  of  the  picture. 
11* 


382  HUTCHINSON'S  KANSAS. 

Plan  of  Highland  Cemetery,  Junction  City.    Page  156. 

This  plan  sufficiently  explains  itself,  while  it  bespeaks  the  taste  and  public 
spirit  of  the  people  of  Junction  City,  who  have  thus  laid  out  and  adorned  the 
•ity  of  the  dead.  The  above  plan  was  but  recently  adopted,  but  the  work  o 
growing  trees  and  shrubbery  is  progressing  as  rapidly  as  possible. 

Presbyterian  Church,  Junction  City.    Page  166. 

I  regret  to  acknowledge  that  the  data  I  had  receired  concerning  this  tasteful 
edifice,  is  not  at  hand  at  the  moment  of  sending  this  matter  to  press.  The  cut 
is  from  an  accurate  photographic  view,  and  sufficiently  shows  the  excellent 
appearance  of  the  structure.  It  is  built  of  magnesian  limestone,  and  is 
thoroughly  finished  inside  and  out.  All  must  concede  that  it  is  a  very  good 
building  to  stand  where  buffalo  were  pursued  by  the  wild  Indiaa,  but  a  short 
fifteen  years  ago.  E.  T.  Carr  of  Leavenworth  was  the  architect. 

Lincoln  School,  Topeka.    Paqe  179. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  graceful  and  complete  structures  in  the  State.  It 
forms  a  harmonious  picture  from  whatever  point  of  view  it  is  approached.  It 
is  in  the  form  of  an  irregular  Greek  cross,  and  is  74x91  feet  in  size  and  three 
stories  high,  exclusive  of  basement.  Its  largest  tower  is  15  feet  square  and  104 
feet  high.  The  smaller  tower  forms  the  ventilating  shaft,  with  a  smoke  stack 
in" the  centre.  The  walls  are  limestone  faced  with  brick,  and  the  openings  are 
trimmed  with  an  excellent  quality  of  limestone.  It  contains  seven  school 
rooms,  each  about  24x33  feet,  three  recitation  rooms,  a  sufficient  number  of 
wardrobes  and  dressing  rooms,  and  a  hall  in  the  third  story  36x51  feet.  The 
building  seats  704  pupils,  or  528,  if  all  occupy  separate  desks.  It  wag  erected 
in  1870  at  a  total  cost  of  about  $50,000  including  furnishings. 

The  Challis  Ferry  Boat,  Atchison.    Page  186. 

The  ferry  boat  "  S.  C.  Pomeroy,"  at  Atchison,  is  propelled  by  two  powerful 
engines,  and  is  capable  of  carrying  across  the  swift  waters  of  the  Missouri  a 
large  number  of  loaded  teams.  The  ferry  boats  which  ply  between  the  opposite 
banks  of  our  western  rivers,  as  well  as  the  steamboats  which  carry  freight  and 
passengers  up  and  down  these  rivers,  are  all  so  constructed  as  to  take  on  or 
discharge  passengers,  freight,  teams,  cattle,  etc.,  at  the  side  of  the  boat,  instead 
of  the  end.  This  is  necessary,  from  the  fact  that  the  strength  of  the  current 
in  these  rivers  is  so  great  as  to  oblige  the  boats  to  tie  up  with  their  bows 
headed  up  stream,  when  their  sides  drift  against  the  bank.  As  the  rivers  are 
constantly  rising  and  falling,  the  ferry  boats  tie  up  to  a  wharf  boat,  which  is 
moored  along  shore,  and  which  is  reached  by  a  bridge  from  the  land.  When 
this  ferry  boat  is  crowded,  teams  pass  entirely  around  it  on  the  open  space 
shown  in  the  picture. 


ILLUSTRATIONS.  283 

Steam  Flouring  Mill,  Pomona.     Page  206. 

Thi3  substantial  stone  building  was  recently  erected  and  fitted  up  with  tie 
most  approved  mill  machinery,  at  a  total  expense  of  abotit  $18,000.  Kansas 
now  has  many  excellent  flouring  mills,  but  she  needs  many  more,  especially  in 
the  newly  settled  portions  of  the  State. 

Exchange  Bank,  Atchison.    Paqe  213. 

This  fine  brick  block  is  situated  on  the  principal  s'reet  in  Atchison,  and  was 
built  and  H  owned  by  the  Banking  House  of  Wm.  Hethericgton  &  Co.  This 
is  the  oldest  Banking  House  in  Atchison,  having  commenced  in  1859,  and  con- 
tinued with  a  constantly  increasing  business.  The  building  is  built  of  brick 
and  stone,  with  iron  trimmings,  and  is  an  elegant  and  durable  structure. 

Bancroft  Block,  Emporia.    Page  227. 

This  building  is  50x80  feet  in  size,  and  three  stories  high  with  basement.  It 
is  built  of  stone  and  briek,  with  iron  front,  and  is  completed  in  the  moht  sub- 
stantial and  tasteful  manner.  Tne  lower  story  is  used  for  stores,  the  second 
story  for  business  offices,  including  the  real  estate  office  of  E.  P.  Bancroft,  who 
erected  and  owns  the  building.  The  third  story  is  thrown  into  one  \?\  _-e  hall> 
well  lighted  and  ventilated,  which  will  seat  600  perrons.  It  is  con-i:: 
speakers  and  singers  one  of  the  best  halls  in  the  state.  It  has  two  good  entran- 
ces, and  is  situated  in  the  centre  of  business  and  near  the  hotels. 

Cor.  Levee  and  Main  Street,  Leavemcorth.    Pa</e  229. 

This  magnificent  block  of  buildings  is  constructed  of  brick  and  iron.  It 
has  been  erect-d  at  different  times  and  by  various  parties,  during  the  last  twelve 
years,  and  is  devoted  exclusively  to  wholesale  merchandising,  and  is  occupied 
by  wealthy  firms  who  carry  heavj  stock*  of  goods.  In  the  distance  i«  the 
Planters  House,  one  of  the  best  known  hotels  in  the  West. 

King  Iron  Bridge  Manufactory  and  Iron  Works,  lola.  Page  237 . 

The  main  building  shown  in  the  picture  is  50x350  feet,  and  the  addition  is  40 
x200  feet.  Both  buildings  are  18  feeet  high,  and  built  of  limestone.  They  have 
capacity  for  about  300  workmen.  The  main  track  of  the  Leavenwortb,  Law- 
rence and  Galveston  Railroad  passes  in  front  of  the  building,  and  a  side  track 
passes  across  the  -middle  of  the  rear  building.  Coal  from  the  vicinity  is  now 
famished  at  20  cents  per  bushel,  and  a  shaft  is  being  sunk,  from  which  coal  is 
to  be  delivered  to  the  works  at  12  cents  per  bushel. 

This  company  was  organized  since  January,  1871,  and  its  manufactory  will 
soon  be  in  motion.  The  company  consists  of  Z.  King,  president,  T.  B.  Mills, 
vice  presiden,  Jas.  A.  King,  secretary,  and  B.  M.  Smit'n,  treasurer,  and  it  has 
control  of  all  territory  west  of  the  Mississippi  river,  for  the  manufacture  and 
sale  of  the  celebrated  King's  Wrought  Iron  Bridges.  (See  page  217.) 


284  HUTCHTNSON'S  KANSAS. 

Missouri  Valley  Life  Ins.  Building,  Leavenworth.     Page  239. 

This  building  is  now  in  course  of  erection  by  the  Missouri  Valley  Life  Insu 
ranee  Company,  of  Leavenworth,  and  when  completed  will  be  one  of  the  finest 
and  beet  appointed  buildings  >n  the  country.  It  is  73x125  feet  on  the  ground, 
is  to  be  faced  with  dressed  stone,  the  basement  blue  limestone  and  the  super- 
structure with  a  fine  quality  of  magnesian  limestone.  The  basement  is  to  be  5 
feet  in  the  clear  above  the  sidewalks,  and  will  be  divided  into  offices,  coal  room, 
boiler  room,  etc.  These  offices  are  to  be  well  lighted  and  pleasant,  and  are 
designed  for  first  class  business  offices.  The  first  floor  is  to  be  fitted  up  entire 
for  offices,  and  approached  from  the  corner  entrance  will  be  the  principal  busi- 
ness officts  of  the  company  with  the  minor  offices  in  the  se  ond  story,  and  BO 
arranged  as  to  be  approached  by  a  private  stair  case.  Besides  the  numerous 
rooms  in  the  second  story  for  the  use  of  the  company,  there  are  several  splendid 
offices,  designed  for  renting.  In  the  third  story  the  Free  Masons  propose  to 
have  their  Lodge  rooms.  These  when  completed,  will  be  the  finest  in  the  West. 
The  building  is  to  be  heated  by  steam,  will  be  thoroughly  ventilated  and  sup- 
plied with  all  the  modern  improvements,  and  from  its  central  location  and  the 
admirable  adaptation  to  the  uses  for  which  it  is  intended,  it  will  undoubtedly  be 
a  profitable  investment.  The  architect  is  B.  T.  Carr  of  Leavenworth. 

Minister,  No.  6,363.    Page  244. 

This  splendid  animal  is  of  red  color.  He  took  the  first  premium  at  the  fair 
of  the  Kansas  State  Agricultural  Society  in  1870.  He  was  got  by  Lord  Derby, 
4,  949,  and  was  calved  September  23,  1863,  and  was  bred  by  the  late  R.  A.  Alex- 
ander of  Kentucky.  He  is  now  owned  by  Andrew  Wilson  of  Topeka,  Kansas- 
His  pedigree  is  to  be  found  in  the  American  Short  Horn  Herd  Book,  vol.  7* 
His  weight  on  17th  August,  1868,  was  2,310  fts. 

Oxford  Wiley,  No.  8,756.     Page  246. 

Oxford  Wiley  was  calved  August  13,  1866,  was  bred  by  A.  J.  Alexander  of 
'Kentucky,  and  is  now  "vned  by  N.  L.  Chaffee  of  Ashtabula  county,  Ohio.  He 
is  kept  by  the  sons  of  Judge  Chaffee  at  their  farm  near  Manhattan,  Kansas- 
His  color  is  red  roan.  He  was  got  by  imported  Royal  Oxford,  1,877  and  is  a 
very  fine  animal. 

"  Comus."    Page  302. 

(The  property  of  B.  F.  Akers,  Leavenwarth.) 
Described  on  same  page. 

"Kansas  Bog:'     Page3Q3. 

(The  property  of  B.  F.  Akers,  Leavenworlh.) 
Described  on  same  page. 

'•Neu>ry."    Pa#e304. 

(The  property  of  Dr.  W.  L.  Challis,  Atchison.) 
Described  on  same  page. 


INDEX. 


PA«. 

Area .*. 9  ,184, 187 

Alum  A. 89 

American  Desert 108,112 

Atchison  and  Nebraska  Railroad  and  its  towns 228 

Atchison,  Topeka  and  Santa  Fe  Railroad  and  its  towns 242 

Altitudes 258 

Boundaries 9 

Barometrical  observations 84 

Brick 93 

Burning  lime 93 

Buffalo  grass 94 

Blue  grass 136 

Banks 190 

Olimate ., ••••••••••• •••  29 

Climate,  change  of 35 

Coal 73 

Cement 90 

Clay  for  brick 93 

Cattle  business 114 

Common  schools 176 

Churches  and  clergy 180 

Counties,  square  miles  and  statistics 184,187 

Central  Branch  Union  Pacific  Railroad  and  its  towns 222 

Cost  of  living 268 

Dairying 103 

Dtsert 108,112 

Description  of   Illustrations , 275 

Englishman's  impressions 162 

Frosts .7. 34 

Freestone 69 

Fruit  growing Ic8 

Farming 146 

Forest  trees , 150 

Freights 262 

Grass,  prairie 52 

Grass,  buffalo 94 

Orass   tame 186 


286  INDEX. 


PAGE. 

Geo'ogy , 59 

Gypsum 71 

Growth  of  Kansas 184,188 

Humidity,  relative 34 

Health 43 

Hydraulic  cement v.  90 

Hay 52,99 

Hedges ;f. 150 

Hogs 125,260 

How  to  come  to  Kansas 265 

Horses 270 

Iron , .'. 86 

Inhabitants 167 

Irrigation,  sub 247 

Irrigation  255 

Illustrations,  Description  of. , 275 

Kansas  Pacific  Railway  and  its  towns 214 

Lead 86 

Lime 93 

Land  survey 191 

Land,  sale  of T98.207 

Land,  U.  S.  offices 206 

Leavenworth,  Lawrence  and  Galveston  Railroad  and  its  towns.  233 

Mud i 55 

Marble 69,241 

Mule  breeding 135 

Missouri  River  Railroad 227 

Missouri,  Kansas  &  Texas  Railroad  and  its  towns 228 

Missouri  River,  Fort  Scott  and  Gulf  Railroad  and  its  towns 236 

Manufactures 261 

Newspapers 168 

Prairie  grass , 52 

Petroleum 90 

Paints 91 

Productions 19,  259 

Population  for  1860, 1865  and  1870,  by  counties 184 

Population  compared  with  other  States 188 

Quarries 64 

Rivers 9 

Rain  fall 32,  33,  35,  40,  43 

Roads 55 

Railroads 209 


INDEX. 


287 


PAGE. 

Surface  and  scenery 13 

g0il 18 

Soil,  analysis  of. 21,  23,  26 

Sky,  face  of. .' 

Stone  quarries 64 

Sandstone 69 

Salt 

Sheep  business 125 

Schools,  common 176 

School,  denominational 

State  institutions 180 

Securities 189 

Survey  of  government  land 191 

Sale  of               "            " 198,207 

Square  miles  of  counties 184, 187 

St.  Joseph  &  Denver  Railroad  and  its  towns 

St.  Louis,  Lawrence  &  Denver  Railroad  and  its  towns 241 

Table  of  Agricultural  productions 19 

rain  fall 32,33,40,43 

temperature 

barometrical  observations,  force  of  vapor,  and  frosts.. 

"         direction  of  winds 

salt  analysis 83,84,85 

prices  of  beef  in  Chicago 124 

"         growth  of  trees 161,162 

"         newspapers 173 

"         public  school  statistics 177,178 

"         growth  by  counties 184 

"         square  miles  in  counties 184, 187 

banks f 190 

"         prices  of  furniture 267 

"         agricultural  implements,  etc 268 

"         provisions 269 

Timber 60, 150 

Tin 87 

Tame  grasses 136 

Taxes _ 182 

Taxable  property,  increase  of. 189 

Towns  not  described  with  railroads 250 

Vapor,  force  of. ., 34 

Vineyards 144 

Water 47 

Wind  and  windmills 57 

Western  Kansas 94 

When  to  come  to  Kansas 264 

What  to  bring 266 


Resources  of  Kansas.1 


PUBLISHED  BY  STATE  AID  AND  AUTHORITY. 

This  i8  the  cheapest  book  before  the  public,  and  is 
the  only  work  published  which  claims  to  treat  of  the 
entire  State  of  Kansas.  The  map  accompanying 
each  book  is  the  latest  and  best  out,  and  is  alone 
worth  the  price  asked  for  the  book  and  map. 

The  engravings  cost  $1,800,  and  in  number  and 
character  are  far  superior  to  anything  ever  before 
attempted  in  a  similar  work. 

The  articles  upon  "Survey  of  Public  Laud," 
and  "  Acquiring  Title  to  Public  Land,"  contain 
information  of  incalculable  value  to  every  western 
man,  and  the  matter  there  presented  cannot  be  found 
collected  in  any  other  publication,  but  exists  in  discon- 
nected laws,  rulings,  decisions  and  directions  of  the 
Land  Department.  The  Surveying  article  was  cor- 
rected and  approved  by  the  Surveyor  General  of 
Kansas,  and  the  Land  Sale  article  was  revised  by  the 
officials  of  three  United  States  Land  Offices. 

The  articles  upon  growing  "  Hedges  and  Forest 
Trees,"  "Fruit  Growing,"  "Cattle  Business," 
"Sheep  Business,"  etc.,  were%prepared  by  men  of 
wide  experience  in  each  department,  and  are  worth 
many  times  the  price  of  the  book  to  all  persons 
engaging  in  these  pursuits. 

Price  of  the  book  with  map,  in  paper  covers,  $1.00; 
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more,  it  will  be  sent  post-paid  at  a  reduction  of  one- 
sixth  from  the  above  rates. 

All  orders  must  be  accompanied  by  cash. 

A  LIBERAL  DISCOUNT  TO  THE  TRADE. 

Agents  wanted. 

Address  C.  C.  HUTOHINSON,  Topeka,  Kansas. 


